J Random User

I need an upstresm o2 sensor, but I'm wondering which one I should get: Bosch 13354 or 13355? Both of these show up as exact fit for upstream (the downstream part number is 13353) My car is NOT California emissions. Both of them are about the same price, so that's not a problem. As a sidenote, what is different about the Lexus version of the 1996 1MZ (I've looked up stuff for both it as well as the equivalent Camry V6 and Avalon, but the displacement of the ES300's engine always comes up as 2959cc but the Toyota-branded cars come up as 2995cc ). I know the 3VZ-FE is 2959 in both cars (the Avalon didn't exist at the time)

Thanks! If it matters, I forgot to say that the ABS light is not on, and it never was. Wouldn't the missing teeth cause the ABS light to illuminate? And wouldn't I not have ABS then? Both CV axles are new as of today (literally less than 10 miles on them!) NAPA reman units. I already returned the old cores to the store,so I can't see if if the old ones had missing teeth.

All four brake pads have been replaced, and the front rotors have been replaced. The CV axles have been replaced as well (the inner joints, on both sides, were torn) What could cause the brake pedal to pulse at every stop?

Those blue bulbs suck! The best bulbs for 9005/9006 are Philips Xtreme Power More info here on why that Silverstar nonsense is terrible http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/good/good.html

Thanks for your help everybody! I found a sweet deal on Axxis Deluxe Plus (OE pad material), so I ended up getting those. About $30 for both front and rear (they usually go for at least twice that much, if not more!)

And where exactly is the transmission cooler line in our cars? (Maybe someone can like edit the image and circle the cooler line with Paint or Photoshop or something) or or

Well my car has over 180k on it, and new rotors are only about $20 each

I'll probably get Centric C-Tek rotors. (They're like the Premium rotors but without the black E-coating finish) For pads, I'm leaning towards StopTech Street Performance but also considering Hawk HPS and Wagner ThermoQuiet. Anybody have experience with any of these pads?

Thanks! I guess I'll try again after the heat wave cools down. I'll try draining it with the car running, and I'll more carefully measure how much fluid I get out. My plan is to get a clear tupperware-type container and somehow measure by the quart and draw lines on the outside of it. Could I just let the car idle in park while draining, or should I be shifting it a little while draining?

I changed the transmission fluid last week. I drained it with the drain plug then added 3.7 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF. Unfortunately the frame of my car is bent in a way that blocks a couple of the bolts to the oil pan, so I couldn't take it off to change the transmission filter. The problem is now the transmission fluid level reads very high and it still looks brown like it did before the fluid change! No improvement in the color whatsoever! (The old fluid that drained out did have some red in it but it didn't look fresh at all) Is there a special way to change the transmission fluid? And what do I do now? Will the fluid level eventually settle down? Also, my speedometer doesn't work for the first few hundred feet of going, and for the first 5-10 MPH. This I only saw in the past couple days.

I used Mobil 1 ATF on my 96 ES300 to change the transmission fluid, 3.7 quarts as specified in the manual. I could not replace the transmission filter because of the frame bent in a way that blocks some of the bolts so I can't fit any tools up there to loosen them! (It looks like that bar is usually right in front of both oil and transmission pans) Anyway, after driving it a week, checking the transmission fluid it still looks brown (like before I changed it)! Not nice and red like the fresh synthetic ATF I put in it! Also, it reads a quart high.

Are there any aftermarket headlights that use glass instead of plastic that yellows and scratches over time. This would be for a 96 ES300 but of course they'd fit on all 92-96 models

Is M10-1.25x 40 the correct bolt size? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-AutoGrade-10-pcs-M10-1-25-x-40-mm-47-80-N-m-class-8-8-hex-head-cap-screw?itemIdentifier=965813

sorry, accidental duplicate post, please delete!

1996 ES300 with the wasted-spark 1MZ-FE, where the whole cat needs to be replaced and you can't just replace the front pipe like the 94's They're all about the same price about $220 give or take. PLEASE don't say Bosal or Magnaflow, as they are NOT direct fit!! (I read about that on Amazon product reviews about them and also other Toyota-related sites) Also, what about new bolts? What size are they so that I can get new ones? (usually recommended since they rust really bad) What to ask for at the hardware store? Or are they usually included with a cat? And what's the difference between standard load and premium or ultra load?

1996 ES300 with the wasted-spark 1MZ-FE, where the whole cat needs to be replaced and you can't just replace the front pipe like the 94's They're all about the same price about $220 give or take. PLEASE don't say Bosal or Magnaflow, as they are NOT direct fit!! (I read about that on Amazon product reviews about them and also other Toyota-related sites)

I decided to to go with the ContiExtremeContact since they're on closeout and come with a road hazard warranty included. They should arrive next week. Thanks everybody for your help!

None of those UHP All-seasons are available in 205/65-15 (or any 15-inch for that matter) Over the summer, Kumho will replace the ASX with the Ecsta 4X, which will no longer be available in our size like the ASX is.

Thank you guys so far! Now I have another question: It appears the 1994 1MZ has a separate front-pipe (ie, you don't have to buy the whole cat), whereas on my 96 I don't see this coming up as available and you have to buy the whole cat Here is a picture of the supposedly 94-only front-pipe (before the cat): http://s.ecrater.com/stores/36412/4a24fcbf5744e_36412n.jpg Another question I have is which brand is better, Eastern or Walker? (Each cat is about the same price, around $220) I found the Eastern on RockAuto, and the Walker on Amazon, if that matters

OK, I figured out why my car is so loud (see photos), discovered when trying to change my oil (drain plug overtightened) Exhaust is broken at the part right in between the oil and transmission pans, the pipe coming from the rear exhaust manifold (for the back row of odd cylinders 1, 3, and 5) is broken and/or rusted off the other thing in between the engine and transmission oil pans. The manifold itself seems OK though. I don't think the cat is busted because I hit it with a wrench and it did not rattle like marbles. What is this part called?

Yep, I know I need them, and now I have to decide what tire to get. I have narrowed down to three choices: Kumho Ecsta ASX Continental ContiExtremeContact (NOT the new ExtremeContact DWS, as those are not available in our size 205/65-15) Goodyear Eagle GT Does anyone here have any experience with any of these tires?

bump

No, it says 92-06 Anyway, it's funny that this got more replies than my other question about a loud exhaust on my current car http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68539

To include the 90-91 ES250 VZV21 generation

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got the plugs replaced and reset the check engine light. The misfires are gone, however now that catalyst and evaporative monitors will not be ready. What can I do? I drove it for 5 days already, and today I drove 100 miles (50 miles each way). On the way there, I made no stops, just drove 50 miles straight. On the way back, I made one stop almost exactly in the middle. But the catalyst and evap monitors will never be ready! The evap monitor was ready before I got the new plugs, but the catalyst was never ever ready. All the other monitors are ready (Misfire, fuel, comprehensive, oxygen sensor, oxygen heater, EGR) and the misfire codes did not come back. However, I still have code P0135 for the O2 heater and the car is still loud. The only code I have now is P0135, but the catalyst and evap monitors are not done yet (I had no evap codes before the reset, so I'm not really worried there) Also, at 65 mph and above, the car shakes bad (it also shakes not-as-bad below 25 mph). But between 30-60 mph the car is fine. Even over bumps and potholes. At high speeds, the passenger seat shakes noticeably (with nobody sitting in it--I never took it on the highway at that speed with a passenger). I know I need tires and CV joints (due to the telltale clicking sound they make when turned all the way), would either of those clear it up?