paulo57509
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Posts posted by paulo57509
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'98-'00 aren't susceptible to leaking ECU capacitors but it does happen. It might be wise to pull the ECU and check.
There's a sticky here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000-183/
"All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)"
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If you have access to a scan tool, you can read coolant temperature and compare that with the gauge to see if the gauge is giving you a true reading.
The issue will be something that RX has posted.
I do know that the LS has a chronic problem with gauge needles sticking (at minimum or zero) because the instrument lube used tends to get sticky over the years. I know that this effects speedometers and tachometers; it may also affect the other gauges.
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Is this what you're looking for?
P/N 82660-50020, BLOCK ASSEMBLY, RELAY, ENGINE ROOM
Lexus notes that this part is not available for service. Yet it lists a part number - so it's confusing.
The two cylinder relays in the box are for the cooling fans.
I hope this helps a little bit.
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15 hours ago, Zeus253 said:
I am under the strong impression that if the key starts and does it all, rhat this is a master key.
The Lexus logo key you have appears to be the Valet key. It only opens the doors and starts the car. It's not designed to unlock the trunk (via the trunk lid keyhole), the glove box or the button that's located on the dash between the trunk and fuel door release.
The transponder in the Valet key cannot be used to program additional keys. You need the original, 3-button Master key (I mistakenly called it the transponder key in my previous post) that's matched to the ECU.
Read thru the links below; they should answer most of your questions. You can also, do a topic search at Club Lexus (you may have to register) for more info. Keep in mind that the immobilizer was added to the LS sometime in '97-'98.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/549508-key-dilemma.html
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Is the key you're trying to program the rectangular FOB that's in the above image? That doesn't look like any of the Lexus '98-'00 keys I've seen.
L: Transponder Key R: Valet Key
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Remote entry programming and transponder programming are two different procedures (as you've discovered).
The attachments should be helpful.
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SWAG: Did you bleed the cooling system after refilling it?
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Worm gear clamps should be tightened to 15 in-lb per this reference:
Worm gear clamps do require periodic re-torquing.
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Sorry. Can't open that image format.
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21 hours ago, randyrober said:
Paul, The mechanic had a code that said replace the sensors. Did that then he saw where a mouse had eaten a wire through on the harness. Tried to splice it but said that did not work and have to replace it 😞
I believe that the knock sensor wiring is part of the main engine harness. You're going to have to find the entire harness from a donor car if the splicing didn't "work".
- You need two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Connector-knock-Sensor-1-way-Toyota/dp/B01N3N5PHA
- Cut out the damaged wire(s).
- Solder and shrink tube new wire sections with the new connectors. This is not the place for crimp connectors.
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Is the harness missing or just in need of repair?
If repair is an option, what's the extent of repairs that are needed?
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2 hours ago, johnpend said:
Paulo,
The company I have been talking to rebuilds the unit you send them. The problem seems to be the time required to send it to them and for them to ship it back.
If you want to keep your original retractor, this is probably your only option.
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3 hours ago, johnpend said:
I'm going nuts trying to find a part and I need help desperately!
I have consulted multiple Lexus dealership parts departments and have been told the same thing repeatedly:
1) the part number for the driver's-side seatbelt retractor on a 1994 LS400 is 73220-50051 which was superseded by 73220-50052. The numerals are followed by two letters which are the color code for the belt fabric.
2) this part is discontinued and is not is any dealership in the United States.
3) I have contacted recycle yards (24+) from California to Maine. No one has the part I need.
4) the retractors for 1994 are different from '90, '91, 92, '93 and '95 and will not interchange and have different part numbers.
5) I may end up having to send the unit to a company in Massachusetts that has been highly recommended, but I really want an original one.
I have owned this Lexus since 1999 and struggle to replace parts, but I have a mechanic who takes excellent care of the beast and I have no intention of replacing this magnificent car with only 220,000 miles on it.
Thanks in advance for any all responses!
I've used this search site to find obsolete parts. However, the success rate is fairly low.
My local Lexus dealership uses this site.
You mentioned a company where you send in your retractor; do they rebuild yours and send it back or do they just exchange it?
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Shims over or under the buckets?
There's no starting reference point that I know of, simply because there are too many variables at play.
Depending on model year, there are 41 different shims, increasing in 0.020mm increments from 2.000mm to 2.800mm. It is crazy to even consider buying every shim when they cost ~$13 per. Even then you're not going to use most of them and will need more than a few of the same thicknesses.
If you have a shim under bucket arrangement ('98-later) you "might" be able to start by putting the bucket on a shimless valve and measuring the clearance. Some math should put you close to a shim thickness. You would need to do this to all valves, keeping the bucket with the same cam lobe.
You'd be money ahead by finding a different set of heads that have the shims installed and adjusted (at least close).
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Did you go through the process of bleeding the air out of the system?
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The only thing available in the aftermarket is the connector pigtail.
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On 11/26/2022 at 5:01 PM, Miramarrich said:
I have a 2000 LS 400 in pristine condition but the wipers only work on high speed and the wipers stop any where I changed the switch and the motor but that did not solved the problem. I would appreciate any help
The Body ECU is bad.
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Sounds like the torque converter clutch has a problem.
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It looks like it unscrews:
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How bad were the capacitors (in the ECU) you replaced leaking? The stuff that leaks can damage the middle layers of the multi-layered PCB.
When you replaced the fuel pump, was the pickup screen also replaced?
Long shot, but I think there's a second fuel filter inside the tank (P/N 23300-50060).
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They're on each side of the engine block, accessible from underneath. They should look like this:
Loosen the small hex (bolt) and the water should drain out the elbow. When tightening, don't reef on the bolt; torque = 9 ft.-lb.
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Overheating is not a symptom of a coolant leak unless it's a big leak.
When does he smell antifreeze? All the time, when the heat is on, when the AC is on?
What method did the dealer use to determine that there were no leaks? Visual inspection of hose connections or pressure test?
Your car is under warranty; its's probably going to take you being a PITA until you get some satisfaction.
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If the timing marks don't line up after two revolutions, the belt is not installed correctly. Remove it and start again. Don't run it with the engine out of time. It will cause other issues, not just mechanical ones.
If you have the old belt, compare it to the new one.
This link may be helpful:
Drivetrain vibration at 20mph after towing
in 90 - 00 Lexus LS400
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Before you unbolted the driveshaft from the differential, did you mark both sides of the flange so that it was bolted back in the same orientation?
Did you replace the adjusting washers in their proper locations between the body and center support bearing?