landar

Well, difficulty is a subjective thing. For the crank seal, you will need to pull the crank gear off of the crankshaft, then pull the oil seal out and new one in. It helps to have some special tools for this. As for the cam seals, you will need to pull the valve covers and first cam bearing journal, IIRC. None of this is terribly difficult but does take some patience and the proper tools. It is not trivial.

I think the answer is 'yes'. Have a look at this link and take a look at yours. While you are flushing, I would highly recommend cleaning the filter ->http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/343856-all-in-one-power-steering-fix-s-solenoid-acv-plug-drain-flush-bleed-system-diy.html

Why people remove the alternator from the car to get it tested is always a mystery to me. You can test the alternator while it is still in the car. In fact, that's often the best way to do it. These yo-yo's at the auto stores do not really know what they are doing so your alt. could still be bad but they say its 'good'. I wish I had a dollar for every time someone found out the alt was really bad although it tested good at the store. You can do this yourself, Papa. Just get a voltmeter and measure the charging voltage at the battery with the engine running and a load(headlights on). Don't replace the cables just yet but do some more testing before you decide on the next step. Take your voltage reading and report back here.

Sounds like they are taking the 'shotgun' approach. Here is some reading for you -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/

The Check Engine Light (CEL) and cig. lighter really have no common link other than the battery as does every thing else. What is the history on this car? How many miles, how long have you owned it? Have you or a previous owner, ever had the trunk wiring harness looked at? Weird electrical issues occur when the wires are intermittent.

Engine codes can clear out on their own and then the CEL would be off so maybe that is what you mean. Lets cut to the chase...what is your main issue with the car?

I would not bother with O'reillys, just do it yourself with this procedure -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

I am not sure about the limit switch but in any case, it sounds like you are going to have to take the door panel off and start investigating. On the ones where the limit switch is the culprit, I believe the window will go all the way down, which is not your case. So do not put too much stock in that being the problem. Could be that your motor is kaput or mechanism is bound up. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html

Maybe this thread would be of some help -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/15913-window-motorregulator/

A couple of things that I would try before going further, Bobby. With a helper pressing the up button and you grasping the window pane on both sides, see if you can 'help' it go up. It might go back in place so that you can drive it. And as for clues as to what might be wrong, watch an interior light as you push the button and note whether it seems to dim slightly when you press the button. If so, that indicates that the motor is drawing current. Also, do you hear any clicking or grinding noises when you attempt to move the window?

Randy, did you use a buffer or 'elbow grease'?

I should mention that I had this same issue on my 98 LS400 and it was due to warping the pan while taking it off the transmission. Those pans are really stuck fast and when you pry to get it off, you will inevitably bend the pan on an edge, if ever so slightly. So, I cleaned the outside of the pan and let the car sit overnight. Next day, I pinned down the location of the leak and used a wide, flat blunt punch and hammer to peen the edge of the pan back into shape in the offending area. It worked.

Are you using cork, rubber or RTV gasket material? If you use the RTV or FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) material, that would probably be your best bet to stop a leak.

If you cannot find one at the dealer or aftermarket, you may have to spin the dice on a used ebay resistor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injection-Relay-Module-90-94-Lexus-LS400-23080-50010-OEM-10418-/261270638709?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd4f19075 The resistor is used to reduce the voltage to the pump when high pressure is not needed. The relay switches it in and out. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.ttyr2.com/albums/Lexus%2520LS400/ls400-efi-electrical-schematic.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/373766-90-ls400-fuel-pump-system-problem.html&h=482&w=768&sz=105&tbnid=xLQ7PW3MGZCK1M:&tbnh=90&tbnw=143&prev=/search%3Fq%3D1990%2Bls400%2Bfuel%2Bpump%2Bresistor%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=1990+ls400+fuel+pump+resistor&usg=__FYzDxLhLq_D9iyf625-1ukIkaUQ=&docid=BfM90DCV9lz_6M&sa=X&ei=HX55UtmFHPHeyQGf44HYDw&ved=0CG4Q9QEwBg It is a nominal 0.7 ohms. So, if you can find a standard 0.7 ohm resistor at say 10W, you could wire it in yourself. That is probably what I would do if I could not find a new one. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/resistors/chassis-mount-resistors/66696

A little old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays? ^_^ It sure sounds like you got a nice vehicle. Maybe you can post some pics? We would like to see it.

Is there a question in there somewhere???

Well, not knowing any thing about past maintenance, it is hard to advise you, Danny. That you think it might be a bit sluggish for a V8 is highly speculative. Your expectations might be too high for this V8. And consider that with 150k miles, the old gal is probably at least a little bit tired. It might be good to get a new timing belt and water pump, spark plugs, wires, distributor caps/rotors. If you can do the work yourself, you can save a lot of moola. It is not unusual to have some tappet noise on a 150k mile car. You can fix it with some tappet shimming but that is fairly involved. Again, it all depends upon previous maintenance and who knows if the engine was abused or not (limited oil changes)? Maybe go with a slightly higher viscosity engine oil.

What?! If you put the car away in a running state, then there is no reason for the timing belt to shred except one...a seized water pump. And that is believable if left setting for three years.

I would start at square one. With the alternator back in the car, start it up with high idle (1500 RPM). Turn on the headlights. Put a voltmeter on the battery. Should be north of 13.5 VDC. You could also check for continuity from the + main terminal on the alt to the + on the battery (System powered down). I would also check the ground on the alternator.

Just an FYI, you do not have to remove the alternator and take it somewhere to check the alternator. You can make a fair assessment with a simple voltmeter at the battery and turning on a load (like headlights). Thats what I always do. The reason I asked about the jump is that sometimes the leads will get reversed for a moment, sparks fly, and the fusible link gets blown. But the user does not realize this at the time. Another thing that takes out the link is touching the + main feed of the alternator to ground when removing the alternator. That only happens if the battery is not first disconnected. Did you disconnect the battery before pulling the alt? I suspect that you have several issues and that you may have inadvertently caused one of them. Not sure though. Its hard to troubleshoot thru a little cat5 cable. ^_^

Did you check the main fusible link? Something like 120 amp feeding the battery from the alternator. It is not in a fuse box.That could be blown. A little history on your problem may also help. You didn't, by chance, happen to jump start the car just before the alternator appeared to stop working? Welcome to LOC!

Sure, you can check the timing belt. You just need to remove some plastic covers to check. I would not think the timing belt suddenly went bad and I would caution you against such speculations. Keep the thinking simple because, most times, it is a fairly simple issue. You need to approach this in a logical way. You sprayed starter fluid and got no response from the engine. Now you can check for spark. If no spark, you go down the spark path. If spark, you may have a fuel issue after all, even though you sprayed starter fluid. So, take it one logical step at a time. You will soon arrive at the root cause.

It should be easy to pull the main hi-voltage wires on the distributors, hold each close to a ground and crank to see if you get any spark at all. That is where I would start. I would also check to see if you have any codes.

How many miles are on this puppy?

I am sorry to hear about your husbands health issues and do hope that he will continue to improve. Maybe the thought of riding in the LS will help ;-) I hear you about working on cars...not everyones cup of tea. However, do not sell yourself short as I will bet you can do much more than you might think. I do not always enjoy working on my cars (only 95% of the time!) but the money savings have been awesome. I have probably saved many, many thousands of $ over the life of each vehicle. My son and I replaced the temperature display on our 92 LS that had blacked out. Very common problem. It is relatively easy to fix and there are many posts on it. I encourage you to try tackling that on your own. There is no 'reprogramming' necessary, just some basic soldering skills which you can easily learn.