jerryparks

need a replacement chrome wheel. One of mine is shedding chrome real bad. I also a master window control switch for all windows) Reasonable please.. It's an old car. ship to 62959 in southern IL

I have finally cleared all the codes that were outstanding, except code 47. Any ideas what I need to check next would be appreciated. Also the CEL and trac light stay on. I have tried to clear any fixed codes by removing the neg on the battery for a few seconds.

Need shipped to Marion, IL 62959. Can pay by Paypal.

Dave: I'm still waiting on the $ 50.00 check you were going to send me for the items that I paid you for and were never shipped. I sure could use th money. - Jerry

If that is the amp in the trunk, I have one after I changed out my old system. How's 25.00 plus 5.00 shipping?

It makes a lot of sense.

Above post was not helpful -- It was for another brand of car that was unlike my setup. Sorry I tried to help you. here is a picture of the sender if that will help you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-94-Lexus-LS400-fuel-level-sensor-sender-/270631169527 Yeh, That was a big help. Now I know what I am looking for. Guess I need to remove the grey backing in the trunk to access this part. Thanks Again.

Above post was not helpful -- It was for another brand of car that was unlike my setup.

I have removed both plates on my gas tank and want to clean the contacts on the sending unit as per another post. He did not give enough info on the procedure or the item to be cleaned. There are two items in my tank that could be the unit, but I'm not sure. Both appear hard to get to. Is the item the little square black box a little bigger than a computer chip or the round clear plastic piece at the top of my tank or other item??? I sure would appreciate a quick reply, since I've got my tank open. Thanks!!

I removed a '92 audio head unit / climate control unit from a '92 ES 300 over at the junk yard today. I thought I might be able to use part of it to get my head unit on my LS 400 '92 to work. No luck. Would prefer to trade for a LS 400 Nacachi unit. I'm in Southern IL @ Marion. I'm open to any trade / sell propositions.

I wonder if one of these fixes will cure my fuel gauge? When I fill it up, it registers full on the gauge OK, but only goes down to 3/4 full after driving awhile. It never goes below this reading, until I re-fill to full.

Just finished up re-installing my resouvior. Applied the extra gasket sealer - no leaks- Pump was not leaking, except around the bottom valve. Cost me less than 10 bucks total and a lot of labor to fix. I also removed, cleaned and had brushes installed on my alternator. Removing the alternator was relatively easy. Moving it around was not very easy, because of all the oily covering. I watched the alternator repairman remove the back chrome cover on the alternator and make the brushes installation. This procedure is very easy on the pre '93 LS 400. The brushes are already in an enclosed ring shaped configeration, so one does not have to take the whole alternator apart. The guy charged me $25.00 and also tested it after re-assembling. I think I will just buy brushes next time and make my own installation. I appreciate all the help that I have received on this site during this repair job. Thanks, Fellows!

I finished getting mine out yesterday. I'm cleaning it up with de-greaser now. I think any future removal will be a lot easier-since I've learned a few things about this removal process. I am also interested in the above question as to where the leaks are most likely to occur. I just bought a repair kit, but upon inspection of my removed pump- I do not see any leaks, except around the bottom of the pump. At this point, I'm thinking of just replacing the O ring under the resovioer and re-installing with enough bolts to operate the pump, and see if there are any leaks. I'm not too keen right now on breaking my pump down completely if its not leaking. I'm also going to re-install with some anti seize compound to eliminate the bolt removal problems. That suggestion on using the Blaster spray helps a lot too.

I wonder if a generic "O" ring from your friendly hardware/farm supply would cure your reservior leaking problem? I'm in the process of working on mine and I'm thinking of doing this lst. Toyota has a repair kit for your old original pump for $57.00. I'm going that route if cleaning up the mess around the bottom of the pump and replacing the O ring does not cure my problem. I could get fortunate and repair this irritant for 30 cents. What a mess at the bottom of the pump!!

Any good tutorials/ hints on alternator removal? I hate to start a removal job without accepting suggestions.

Thanks for the tip! Picked up the PB blaster and applied my first coat.

While you fellows are at it, I wish one of you would indicate the procedure for alternator removal. I did not see any tutorials on any of the allied sites. I want to know what I am getting into before I also remove the alternator. This PS pump removal is a pain to remove. I have never seem anything like it on removal. A good cheater bar works great in areas where one can use and manuever, but its value is marginal without room to work. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for all the comments. They are encouraging. Thanks!

I am in the process of removing a power steering pump. I have a leak either at the pump or around the hoses or related assembles around the pump. The area around the underside of the pump is so greesey and wet with ATF fluid, I can't tell what my actual problem is. All of the main bolts were put on way too tight by the factory and I had a very hard time removing the ones I could. I was not able to remove the large high pressure bolt on the left side of the pump and the bolt over the alternator. I broke my light weight cheater bar trying to remove the one over the alternator, with no results. I'm thinking of removing the alternator next to get a better working area on this bolt. At this point, my alternator looks dry and OK -with no ATF fluid on it. I thought I would take it off and take it to a good area alternator shop and at least have the brushes checked while I have it all broke down with the PS pump. I think I will put anti-seze compound on the bolts when I replace them and not over tighten them. Any helpful hints on removing the high pressure bolt and the bolt over the alternator would be appreciated. Thanks. PS: I read all the tutorials and some of the comments on the power steering related problems before I started this project; I guess I missed the comments on removing these stubborn bolts.

Sure wish I could get a buy chance on a car like this up in Southern IL. The price is sure right!

Where do I find the procedures to remove the power steering pump? I have looked all over these forums and cant find it.. For '92 LS 400. Thanks

I need the two smaller light assembles on the pass side front end. I dont need the big one in the middle. I also need the dr side outside mirrow- glass only. Mine is gone. I would also consider the power steering pump -if you already have it off and it does not leak. I just bought a '92 LS 400 and it does have these issues that need fixed. You can reply to: jerry2shoes@yahoo.com as an alternative.

I was over at the local yunk yard and saw a good lookin LS 300 there. I'm wondering if I should try to obtain it as a part car for a '92 LS 400 that I bought? Could I get my money back by parting some of it out?