Texas_GS300

This seems like a chronic Lexus desease. I found this info found on alldata today. Hope this will help. A/C - Musty Odor BULLETIN NUMBER: AC001-97 DATE: September 12, 1997 TITLE: AIR CONDITIONING EVAPORATOR ODOR MODELS: '92-'96 ES 300, '93-'94 LS 400, All GS 300, SC 300/400, LX 450. INTRODUCTION A musty odor may be emitted from the air conditioning system of some vehicles which are usually operated in areas with high temperature and humidity. It is most noticeable when the air conditioner is first turned "ON" after the vehicle has been parked for several hours. The odor could result from one or more of the following conditions: 1. Blockage of the evaporator housing drain pipe, resulting in the build up of condensate. 2. Microbial growth in the evaporator; arising from dampness in the evaporator housing where the cooling air flow is dehumidified. To address excessive air conditioning evaporator odor, check the evaporator housing drain pipe for blockage. If no problems are found, the evaporator and housing should be cleaned and disinfected using the general procedure given on page 2, and the model specific procedure on the pages indicated in the Table of Contents at the bottom of this page. AFFECTED VEHICLES - While this procedure may be used on any Lexus vehicle, this bulletin gives details specifically for the '92-'96 ES 300, all GS 300, '93-'94 LS 400, all SC 300/400 and the LX 450. TOOLS & MATERIALS CAUTION: Wear Safety glasses, protective mask, and gloves while working with the freshener. WARRANTY INFORMATION

John (Stroked4.6), I read your other postings on this forum. I found them very interesting. I am still new to this forum and actually to any such forums. For the problem I mentioned above, I looked for any blown fuse in the fuse box under the hood but all the fuses look ok. I am now wondering if there are other fuse boxes in the car other than the one black box underneath the hood.

Thanks Stroked4.6 It does look like a fuse related issue since all these circuits are down all of a sudden but I am not sure why when I press the window buttons or door lock buttons the relay clicking noise is still there which makes me wonder why would the relay click if the fuse is already blown. I would still want to make sure the fuses are ok. Since I don't know how these circuits are laid out, I shouldn't be assuming that the clicking relay shouldn't click. May be that clicking relay is a totally separate circuit and the actual power to these device are separate circuits. I appreciate your help.

In my GS300 year 1995 everything was working then one day most of the power options stopped working. Now the power windows neither work from the driver panel nor from their respective panels. Same is the case with the power door locks. They don't work from the driver panel nor centrally with or without the keyless entry from outside. The sunroof doesn't operate and the steering wheel doesn't come up or down or the telescopic function doesn't work either. For some reason the power mirrors are working and I think this is the only power function which works right now. Can anyone tell me if this is related to any fuses in the car and which ones. If it is not related to fuses then what is it?

Hi James, Can you send me the pics you shared on this forum when you disassembled your GS300 instrument cluster? I want to dismantle mine and change the bulbs. owaisms@yahoo.com Thanks.

Well as you said the short circuit would not be from the ECU to the check engine light in your dash it must be in the oxygen sensor circuit. I guess you would need to buy the electrical circuit diagram manual of the car to trace the wire from the sensor to the ECU. I am myself in the same problem. My sensor is readying 137ohms and I've ordered a replacement toyota denso sensor but I doubt that it will have the right 11 - 16 ohms resistance for the heater element. I found a forum online actually it was on this owner's forum where someone has attached a pdf file of the sensor circuit. I downloaded it and used it to trace my sensor too. Those couple fo pages were very helpful. I am going to see if I can locate it again. If I did I'll post it here.

There is an EFI (electronic fuel injection) system fuse in a black fuse box underneath the hood. I think it is a 20amp red fuse. The fuse names are marked on the inside of the box lid. You need to turn off your car take this fuse out for more than 10 seconds and put it back into its slot. This will reset your ECM. If you turn on the car now it would have reset all the logged (Intermittent) faults but if there is any active fault left it will still show up on your dash CEL/MIL.

Thanks dglange for your input. After talking to different people it seems like the logical course of action should be to start with the oxygen sensor and then if the problem is not resolved I’ll see what else could be problematic like catalytic converter or the EGR… In order to do anything on the oxygen sensor I would like anyone to guide me for the part number of this heated oxygen sensor (front right, some call it circuit # 2) and where can I buy an inexpensive working oxygen sensor of this type.

I Just bought a Lexus GS300 year 1995. The owner replaced the old powertrain with a 40k driven engine and transmission recently. I see check engine and the traction off lights on the dash whenever I turn on the car. After driving few miles, I also feel burning smell from the hood. I talked to the dealership and they told me that the traction off will come on whenever you have check engine light. Believing that they are right (which could be wrong) I started finding the cause of check engine light. I bought a code scanner on ebay and found out that the car spits code 28 whose description in the book is "HO2S right hand front circuit - HO2S sensor/heater or circuit, ECU". If I try to connect the dots I feel like it may not be a fault and just the cat is expired. Because of the burning smell I tend to believe that it could be related to some leakage in that cat, HO2S sensor/heater area. Did anybody have any such problems before? Can any experts give me their advice on how to diagnose the real fault and do the trouble shooting afterwards? Any help would be highly appreciated. Thanks.