Latoilette

i have a 96 complete OEM lexus service manual for sale

$70 shipped.

m2pc, i didn't thought of that. that is a good way to remove the headlight.

if you need a good transmission at low price, email me.

my friend has a hook up with some really good prices on used tranny.

it's weird. when i got the car, a/c worked great. Then, after driving 1200 non-stop miles, a/c died.

the next day, a/c didn't work. but the next day, a/c worked great.

I thought it was the compressor, so i replaced the compressor. I didn't chance drier, expansion valve, and I did not vacuum the system out before charging. Instead, i installed a new compressor and charged it with freon. (so it is possible that i have air in the a/c system)

anyways.. it worked great for a few days until i had to put another 400 miles on the car.

A/c works only when i drive around short distances.. but for after driving more than 300 miles, a/c doesn't work for two days.

Any suggestions?

you basically remove all little stupid carpet thingys in the trunk that are covering the tail light.

take out a few 10mm nuts.

(on passenger side, you need to remove 1 or 2 nuts for locking mechanism.

your taillight should easily be removed from the car. replace light bulb.

it took me about 10 minutes my first time. my second time..2-3 minutes.

I bought my harness too.. it was harness and installation kit on ebay for 32.99

harness is weird in a way that it plugs into RCA preouts out the headunit for all the signals. ignition, battery, illumination..etc..

I've got 130 for stock radio on ebay

I am currently using the stock amplifier. But for the right price, i would sell mine off.

Please contact me Latoilette@yahoo.com with your best price (including shipping and handling) if the price is right, i will pull it out tonight and send it out 8am tomorrow.

oh, i accept paypal

hi, i've asked this question before.

my a/c got overcharged. and i thought my compressor was dead, so i installed a new a/c compressor.

after charging, a/c still doesn't work.

someone told me that there is blow off disc inside of the high pressure line (from compressor to condenser)

is this true? can anyone confirm this?

also, is blow off disc same as expansion valve?

that's weird.

i have 95 with aftermarket HID, it works great.

there are a few things you can do.

but for starters, you can get a harness if you want to use the stock amp.

i got my installation kit and harness for 24.99 off ebay

you can install an aftermarket amp

or

you can use your headunit (aftermarket)'s to power your speakers...but you will have to get some new speakers.

solution:: you forgot to hook up the remote wire for the amp.

i forgot what color it was...blue or blue with white stripe.

you connect that with remote wire on your head unit.

i 2nd that. cv boots.

i second that.

you have to take the door panel off.

there are two screws and 1 plastic clip underneath the window control thingy.

i can get you a radio either nakamichi or pioneer used one in good shape for $220 shipped to your door.

latoilette@yahoo.com if interested.

if this fixed your problem, send me a christmas card or birthday card.

i collect cards.

I have the absolute right answer for your problems.

i have a 95 es300 and exact same thing happened to me. infact, i fixed my problem just this past weekend.

your clunking noise is coming from your top strut bolt, which got loosened just a little.

i had to remove the whole rear seats. very easy. pull the bottom upwards to pull out the cushion. two bolts are holding the rear seat (one on each side). you pull the rear seat upwards to unhook them.

then, you take a 22mm (i am not sure but it's twenty something)mm socket and tighten the bolt.

i turned mine about 1/4 of a turn, but it fixed my problem.

let me know if you run into any problems.

welcome to the world of oil leaks.

my 2nd car had a bad oil leak problem, i didn't know where it was coming from..what kind of oil it was...just absolutely clueless.

i took my car to 4 different places. each place told me that different parts of the car was leaking.

so i took my car to a hurricane bay car washing place. put $4.00 worth of quarters. degreased the whole underbody.

you have to make sure all the oil is off the car. wait a day. go to a shop.

if no leak, wait another day go to a shop.

do this until you are 100% sure you have no oil leak OR you find an oil leak somewhere.

rear main seal + oil pan shouldn't cost you 1400 bucks.

rear main seal = 200-300 bucks and oil pan - under 100 bucks.

call around and find the cheapest places.

i personally woudn't pay more than 400 for the whole thing.

ebay has some of the stuff you are looking for.

but as far as quality.. i have no clue if they are worth the money.

as for the purchasing wood panels, check local junk yards. they are all transferable.

they are held by clips or screws or adhesive.

that's a smart move.

my compressor finally came home yesterday

and i've been looking under the hood to figure out my plans about doing this.

it seems like the alternator is in the way from the top view.

but manual says alternator does not need to be moved.

has anyone done this ?

if you can give me a few pointers on which direction i should pull the compressor out and if i will need to remove the alternator or not, i would really appreciate that.

don't do it.

the amp is way too much weak to support high end speakers that requires a lot more power.

that's a lot of HP you are looking at.

only way you can gain that much is via TURBO or supercharged options.

or redo the engine with bigger bores and such.

usually 50-75HP gain is not possible without forced induction method. unless of course, if you spend $$$ into your engine.

ouch.

that's some bill.

i can find a 1mz-fe engine with accessories for 500 bucks with 50 000 miles on it. it's on ebay right now. hehe

but you learned a good lesson. i guess that's all it matters.

someone go ahead and clear this for me. I went to the lexus dealership, they said i will need to change my Timing belt at 120 000 miles.

are you sure it's at 90 000?

i've done 3 shock & spring change in my life so far.

they are easy. last one i did was on my brother's maxima. took me 1 hour and 15 minutes to do all 4 with air tools.

es300 rear seat is a breeze to take out. makes job easier if you remove the wooden panel in the back also, but that requires taking out rear side panels that's held by bunch of plastic clips.

eibach springs $200 + tokiko HP $220 =$420. the street labor price for all 4 around atl is about $120 .

your total is $560.

but you will have to spend more money on strut mount and dust boots. they are quite expensive on some cars, i don't know how much they cost on our es300

go to a junk yard pull the whole system out from a oem car that has a gps.

buy the whole thing. go to a stereo shop to get it installed.

i say this setup is the cheapest.