scrappyslexus

Moisture did not cause accumulators to wear out. They simply fail from age and internal flexing. Please go to my website 'activesuspensionsystems.com' and read all about it. At the Dealer expect to pay between $3500 and $4000 for the parts and labor. From me, a better part , 3 times the warranty, DIY for $1400 total. Labor to install by a mechanic 1 hour total. At 61k the dealer did the big 60k service. The problem with the bouncing began around 62 k. At 64k the dealer changed the Height control Oil because they said it was contaminated. Will a contaminated hyd system caouse these accumulators to fail?

My LX 470 has 77k on it. I was told today that I need new accumulators. Could moisture in the Hyd system cause them to fail early? What can i expect the dealer to charge?

I have a 2000 lx 470. Drivers side headlight keeps burning out. Dealers has checked the electrical system, nothing found. Lightbulbls are installed using gloves. The wiring harness has been changed. It seams that the problem arose after the recall for the head lights. I am at a loss, Does anyone have any recomendations? The dealer checked everything again and found nothing?

installing H1/H2 bulbs. I have been very careful not to touch the bulb.

Does anyone have the procedures on adjusting the headlights? I recently changed the bulb and it does not look as though the headlight beam is correct. In addition, does anyone have the wiring diagram for the healight harness. I keep burning out the drivers side headlight and the Lexus parts man recommended that I change the harness. The electrical system has been checked by the dealer and they have found no problems.

Go to Harbor Freight Tools and spend $40 for an OBD Diagnostic Tool that will tell you the code and reason for why the Check Engine light came on (likely it's a bad oxygen sensor). It takes 3 minutes to diagnose. Then at least you'll know what you're in store for to get it repaired, and don't have to spend $159. If it's the Oxygen Sensor, it'll cost about $140 for the part and about 1 hour labor (I know because my LX just had the same problem). Good luck. oxygen sensor

I have a 2000 lx470 with 71,000miles on it. The malfunction lamp came on code (e). Truck has gas and cap is tight. not loosing any power during driving. The Lexus dealer said it is ok to drive has me scheduled for a $159 diaognostic appointment. Is their anything i can do or check out that may be a simple fix?

Price? The folks I know are from NJ but will pass along your info.

I know someone looking for a good used, let me know what you decide and I will forward you contact info.

Is that to program it only? My dealer charged me 1/2 hr labor, which came to $45 at the time. They master key was $200, though, and I was dismayed at having to pay this after shelling out so much money for the CPO vehicle that only came w/ 1 master key (and the salesman didn't mention anything of it when I bought the vehicle; I assumed it would have come w/ 2 master keys). Yes program only.

iI have a recurring problem similiar to yours. The dealer has changed out the sensors 3 times. The last time I had this problem they changed the fluid associated with the height control system and the problem was corrected. Thanks for responding. I kind of bounced the vehicle up and down last night by lowering the tailgate and then pushing down hard on it several times; when I subsequently started the car it leveled out. I then turned off the height control but it intermittently comes back on. If I do keep it off do you know if this will keep it from 'self-leveling'? I would get it to the dealer to check out. Ask about the fluid. They have had problems with the sensors. i had a similiar experience with getting it to level itself and then had it fail when we were 100 miles from home. The other frustrating thing you will hear from the dealer is that they could not duplicate the prob

iI have a recurring problem similiar to yours. The dealer has changed out the sensors 3 times. The last time I had this problem they changed the fluid associated with the height control system and the problem was corrected.

Does the dealer have to do it? My dealer wants $115 per key.

I have a friend in Southern New Jersey looking for a 2000-2001 lx 470 withe the 70k to 80 k mile range. Does anyone have any leads?

Does anyone know where I can get a key for my 2000 LX 470?

Does anyone have a grease point charge for a 2000 LX 470?

What is a fair price for the front brake job? Repack? At 70 k new rotors or cut?

I do not have one in my 2000 can one be installed economically?

AHC fluid: 60K mi PS fluid: when it needs it (in AZ, like 37K mi). Use ATF w/ dextron II/III (w/ or w/o mercon). DO NOT use "power steering" fluid unless you like leaks. Thanks Jim, We can always count on your input

What is the change interval?

The timing belt is normally doen at 90k, does anyone know whent the other belt (multi /Serp belt)needs to be replaced?

Great Points, I was able to put in three Britax car seats in my LX.

I would buy the 470 and save the money, it will be a glorified station wagon. I have a 2000 and purchased it with 15000 miles on it. I saved around 10k. I am glad I saved the money over a new one. I went back and forth, never owned a pre-owned car before. I had one baby in 2000 and have three children know, I digest the melted cryons and spilled drinks, cleats on seats and spilled baby formula a little better then if I had paid top dollar. I also was never a fan of a first year car. Our truck only has 68k on it and will hold off untill my 4 year old is at least 6 and the 570 has been in production.

Your next major service is 90K, which means the t-belt. You should also get the water pump done the same time since it's behind the t-belt (they typically last 120K before weeping). 15K mi: - engine oil/oil filter - engine air filter - cabin filters - front rear diff fluid if using dino (otherwise, 30K for synthetic) - t-case fluid if using dino (otherwise, 30K for synthetic) - lube drive shafts - retorque drive shaft bolts - rotate tires - inspect serp belt 30K mi intervals: everything from the 15K mi plus: - flush brakes - ATF exchange using the machine (probably type T-IV for the '02?) - coolant (use Toyota red + distilled water, mixed 50-50) - front wheel bearing repack (biggie in labor), check brakes while at it - audible test for valve (make sure there's no strange noises) - clean flap around throttle body (spray carb cleaner on a rag & use SS brush) 60K mi: everything from the 30K mi plus - AHC fluid flush--make sure you get the height thing flushed (besides the 4 globes) - probably want to replace serp belt (in AZ, mine lasted only 48K) 90K mi: everything from the 30K service plus: - timing belt - water pump (optional)--good idea to do it now since you'll save $$$$ on labor as opposed to doing it later, as you have to pull all the stuff (radiator, serp belt, etc.) from the front part of the engine to access the t-belt covers. - radiator hoses (optional) 120K mi: same as 60K mi, plus - spark plugs (OEM denso iridium) Generally, I flush my brakes every 1-2 yrs (2 yrs max) and AHC every 2 yrs (due to the heat in AZ), PS fluid was burndt at 49K mi (replaced it w/ Redline ATF w/ dextron II). I would check the PS fluidi periodically to monitor condition. The dealer recommends a ATF drain pan drain every 15K mi, but that's overkill. I just have them put in 12-13 qts of new Toyota type IV (a synthetic) every 30K mi using the machine. Other stuff gets replaced when it needs it. If you DIY, you can buy the parts from the Toyota dealer. I buy them on discount on line....much cheaper. Besides my LX, I own/maintain a '86 4runner, which has the same service intervals as above (except the plugs and no AHC, and it has a timing chain that lasts 150K+ mi). Some of the maintenance is not written in the manual, but needed if you want to avoid spending $$$ in the future at the dealer. :-) For example, the throttle body gets a sticky buildup of carbon around the flap. If you don't clean it, the motor that opens the TB won't be able to open the flap at some point, throwing a "check engine" code. Dealer will diagnose code as bad TB, replacement is $1500. You could clean it for $3 of carb cleaner, but they won't do that or even tell you that. This happened to the TB on my 4runner at 120K mi (accelerator would stick), but a local ex-toyota mechanic (who had a truck w/ the same engine) said you only have to clean the TB and showed me. The difference is on the old 4Runner engine, you can spray carb cleaner straight into the TB and scrub w/ the brush. On the LX, you can't, as there's a sensor at 12 o'clock. Carb cleaner on the sensor is BAD, so use a rag and brush. You can push the flap on the top or bottom, as long as the key is not in the ignition on "on" (or it might throw a code). This info comes from a lexus mechanic who offroads a LX. An interview of the chief engineer of the LX470/LC says it's designed for a 30 yr lifespan and 300K mi between overhauls, so if you do the preventative maintenance, you should be fine. Do you have photos of the throttle body procedure?

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago, it was a high pitch tone/whistle sound. It was coming out of my air conditioning vents. I brought it to my Lexus dealer's attention, they changed something with the air conditioner and it has never done it again. What did it cost? what did they change?