new2mud

Well I have a couple t60 turbos left over from an RX-7 project that went another direction, and the engine in the LS only has 60k miles on the rebuild so I thought that 260HP stock plus the twin turbo setup, Throttle body porting, larger injectors and pump, Chipped Celsor ecu, AND the ever not so popular "cold air intake" would probably make up for the extra weight.. I also prefer a manual transmission. I can live without the Tranny swap for sure but if anyone was interested in helping me (with ideas or "that won't work") I have my ears open.

Since there was never a manual tranny option, you would have a heap of fabrication waiting for you.

As for the t60 setup--go for it--it's been done, but not often. If you're handy with pipe bending/fab, it should be quite doable. You will most likely wind up with the hairdryers under the engine down low, where there is the most space.

The stock ECU will handle ~6psi of boost, and rising rate FPR and larger injectors (stock injectors from 7MGE motor can handle up to ~300-350 RWHP on the 1UZ, IIRC) should get you to ~10 psi. Beyond that, you need to go piggyback to !Removed! timing.

One caveat for polyurethane bushings, especially for those in colder climates, is that they are notorious for squeaking eventually. (Not initially, but eventually).

They are harder than stock (less compliance) and lead to a more "sporting" nature, but the squeak is an unfortunate byproduct of polyurethane.

Hiya all.

I,ve been toying with the idea of one of those controllers for the air suspension anyone seen or have one of those electronic control units that plug and plays into the air suspension,giving more positions and super low etc ? does lowering it affect the geometry or comfort,been watching one on e-bay,£190 posted from australia,seems a good price but dont want it if there's serious drawbacks. over to you. Ian :cheers:

Of course geometry is altered if you raise/lower it. Also keep in mind that if you set it really low, that means there is less air in the shocks, and it will be a really wallowy ride.

I've got a DataSystems controller and love it. Allows me to slam it down on the wheels in the summer, and raise it for plowing through thick snow in the winter.

No serious drawbacks whatsoever, as long as you use it with common sense.

Has anyone tried mounting a device other than a cell phone in the Integrated Cell Phone armrest area?

I removed the integrated cell phone, and installed my Data Systems air ride controller in there where it is discreet but easily accessible.

Also mounted the switch to toggle between CD changer input and MP3 input--the input cable also lies in there so it's out of the way when not in use.

Razahyde,

Try this company. Distinctive Automotive Concepts, phone number (866) 571-0913 .They have done two steering wheels for me. They took my old leather wheels off my 94 & 98 LS. And made them look like factory.(Wood and all!) I sent them a wood sample for each car. And they match it very very close to the car. After talking to them. I now understand they can put wood on old leather shift knobs. Good luck! Sbguy

There website is www.distinctiveautomotiveconcepts.com

I think it is www.distinctiveautoconcepts.com

Do you have a price estimate? (You have to send them an inquiry to get a pricing idea).

Although the data is inconclusive, I believe most of the lower clunking over bumps/potholes appears to be mostly attribute to lower ball joint, with it typically failing before the UCA components.

BTW, lower ball joint is only ~$60 each and about 45 mins for the first time if you've never done it, and probably half that time for the other half.

Only need to replace the one that is clunking, though--is it coming front Driver's front or Passenger's front side?

I had new UCA's installed on my 91 LS400 today. One thing we noticed is that the bolt on the new ball joint seemed about 3/8" longer than the bolt on the original. When we re-measured we found that the difference is in the thickness of the arm itself. On the end, the metal around the new ball joint is about 3/8" thinner than the metal on the original. So the cotter pin on the new one does not reach the crown nut when fully installed. We fixed that by putting a washer between the cotter pin and the nut. I called Arnot and they are checking on it. Still, no more clanking on the bottom end.

TCPAUL--thanks for the report.

Could you describe the nature of the clanking that you experienced prior to the new UCA install? Was it over general bumps/potholes, or slow speed-bump types, etc?

I'll keep you guys informed...

Please do--your 'pioneering' in this area will be of great benefit to the LS400 community!

i saw that too! YESS my 93 is clunkin up front. I wasn't gonna fix it.. but for $200 i might as well! wohoo!

If you're clunking when hitting potholes, bumps, etc I would investigate lower ball joints first. Much cheaper, easier to install, and fixes the infamous 1LS clunk most of the time.

Just replaced my right front, and it took less than an hour from wheel off to wheel on.

I have their struts on my 92 and have been overly disappointed with them. I've ranted on this board several times about that....so I'll spare everyone from hearing it again.

Are then stamped "made in somehwere" or anything like that?

I would like to know how these uca replacements hold up over time. Please keep us informed.

I would also be very hesitant to buy the Arnott UCAs due to the negative feedback I've seen on the quality of their "OEM" strut replacements. Unfortunately, since they are new, we won't have any truly positive feedback for several years. Negative feedback could be sooner, however.

Time will tell.

SONYMAN--your posts on this thread are just about the most informative, concise bits of useful information I have seen. Just fantastic.

Also fiddle with the gear lever selector--if it's not registered in "Park" just so, it will prevent proper key removal.

i found one, so when i get my LS in a couple of weeks thats the first mod im getting

Just make sure you get the correct harness for your year vehicle.

Hi guys,

the other day, I pulled off the neg wire on my 2003 LS430.

After about an hour, I reattached; reset the radio and seats and rode around for awhile, filled tank at same place and......

now I'm getting 23MPG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I still feel the drive by wire but now, it has more torque.

Misleading--you waited a full hour, not 1/2 hour!! :D

Computer "relearns" your driving style and adjusts, once you pull the battery.

I just upgraded my 2001 Mustang Convertible to projection headlights and HID.

The new headlight assemblies where $150 on Ebay including shipping and the H3 HID kit w/Hella Ballasts was $100 including shipping.

Stunningly impressive even with the SHARP cutoff of the high side HID beam pattern provided by the projector lens and apperture.

The are several types of HID hi/lo kits available, most, and the best, move the HID light source electromechanically from one position to the other for hi/lo operation.

You definitely did it the correct way--utilizing new projector beams that have the proper pattern to "contain" HID output. Unfortunately, there is no projector retrofit available for 1gen LS400, and we are stuck with the awful glass lens that actually produces the "pattern". These make for an awful glare problem when simply replacing the 9004 bulb with an HID kit.

The Hi/Low kits that move the filiment are less than ideal for 1gen LS400 applications, as again, the pattern on the glass headlight housing of the LS400 does not provide a proper pattern for the now-moved Hi-beam light source.

is there a hid conversion kit for 1990 ls400?

Yes it will be a 9004 kit. However, you will either lose your high beams or it will be a compromised "filiment arc shifting" solution that does not provide the true proper pattern and will glare everything in sight.

I have a controller on mine, simple plug in gismo that connects in the trunk and runs a cable to the dash controller. These are available from ebay. Works well albeit a tad slow!!

How slow, and can you adjust the dampening as well as the height? How much was it?

It is only slow because it has no tank to hold the air as well as a small compressor. Add a tank and a bigger pump and you can also get new switches for a much more aftermarket style ride.

How much would this cost, and what can it do better than the stock setup with just a controller?

Can anyone post pics of their controller setup, and of their ride dropped/raised?

It's as slow as your standard system (requires time for pump to raise, or small bleed valve to release air to lower). As mentioned, this is due to no air reservoir--only pump.

It allows for much greater ride height variation than stock. You can dump it onto its tires (yes, it goes that low), or you can raise it so it looks like a 4x4 LS400. In winter's deep snow, I set it super high to plow through fresh snow. In summer, it sits several inches lower than stock for a better look.

It does NOT allow for shock dampening/rebound. However, keep in mind that using a controller on the stock air ride will result in wallowy ride quality when lowered extensively, and rather bumpy ride when jacked way up (imagine the compliance of a balloon when deflated/overinflated). When running low, I set my adjustable shock firmness to "sport" to compensate for reduced air dampening in the shock and it rides great.

I am installing the kit in my 96 this weekend. I will snap some photos and let you know how they turn out. You can see the product pics on ebay.

Please keep us posted...especially regarding ballast placement.

Are there any good websites that you guys know of for grills, orginal wheels, lights and other interesting products that dont look like total junk on an 93 ls 400? Most of the websites i find have generic garbage that isnt really for my LS or any specific car, I was intersted in making a few changes that would look good and not cheesey like chrome fender flares and mirror covers. Please let me know of any resources you guys may know of.

Thanks.

C

Not sure if we're allowed to post links to other sites--mods feel free to modify if necessary.

I bought red/clear/red taillights and clear turn signals from luxurymods.com and they completely transformed the look of my 1LS. Makes it look much newer and modern.

Great site and extremely helpful service.

cool, havent found one yet but when i get one this will be my first purchase for it (other than gas)

Yup--was one of my first purchases as well. It rocks.

Strut bar fits perfectly. It won't fit on if you have the plastic engine cover in place, but I already had mine off, as i prefer the look of the exposed engine. Bed time now, I'll take some pics of it tomorrow.

Please do send pics.

BTW, Han, the new owner of LuxuryMods.com has really busted his hump to bring back great customer service to the shop. My compliments to him and his efforts.

Thanks to all and a special thanks to new2mud. I just happen to have Nokian WR's on my old ride(2000 Eclipse) and they are fantastic. I went to the local tire store in Dec. looking for new tires and the guy was raving about these Nokians. Have to admit that I had never heard of them before. But the siping is excellent and even though my Eclipse is FWD, I had never experienced such road gripping power before. With that setup, I could drive in just about any weather condition with confidence. BTW, the Eclipse is now in storage and up for sale...figures, after brand new Nokians for the Mitsu, I have to fall in love with a RWD Lexus :whistles: The Eclipse was my mid-life crisis car. The Lexus is my senior-life crisis car

I do intend to get the WR's put on my LS this fall and give her a try (but gonna have a serious talk with the experienced guys at the tire shop first). Mud, you have renewed my hopes! Thanks again.

Landar, I hadn't heard of Nokians either until I moved to serious snow country. Those Finnish--they know how to make snow tires, considering their habitat and needs. Of course we here in the states know nothing about snow driving compared to them.

There is one thing I have noticed--they seem to be just a minor step below a truly dedicated snow tire in terms of ice traction. If the gap between an all-season and a dedicated 1-season snow tire were 3 vs. 10, I would put the WRs at an 8 or 9. But then again, if ice traction were a priority, you'd get studded snows anyway.

Overall, I don't think you'll be disappointed, considering the convenience.

Knowing how picky the LS is about tires, I'd be really concerned tires like that would ruin the smooth and quiet ride when used year round...

I've got them on my car, firsthand experience. It is summer now, and the smooth ride is, well,... smooth!

www.taprecycling.com Should be able to help you out.

Thanks!

button under the gas pedal?

Yeah--the 1990 model had the black plastic button that actually self-generates nitrous oxide by extracting Nitrogen and Oxygen from the air and then compressing and injecting into the engine.

:P

But actually I think it just triggered the ECU to downshift immediately for more prompt passing torque.

Ooops--just read the earlier post where someone else posted this. So consider it Myth Verified!