juno_reaction

Very common problem for these cars, it appears. Try lextech.org. This site explains everything and can fix your cluster for half the price Lexus would charge for one needle. I'm missing my fuel, RPMs, and speed, so dont feel bad. You can also try ebay :)

yeah, he was cool. I feel bad for him. He's probably lingering around in the forums somewhere...

yeah, I seem to have that problem, but not so much after the car warms up. More like all the time. I was thinking it could be the struts, but I still have to have that checked out.

I was 18 when I first bought my 92 ES. After I had an accident in my Mazda 626, I went looking for a car to take me to and from school. I saw a 94 ES down the road from where I live that was for sale. I called the guy up and asked him if I could test ride it. I did and absolutely fell in love with it! I didn't buy it because the asking price was too much and it had alot of cosmetic damage. I went looking online for more Lexus' and found the one I'm driving now. I got it for 3600 and 131K miles. I've added over 10K since I bought it in August and it still drives really well. I'm 19 now and its my favorite car of three that I have had.

Btw, Benji, nice Lex. I'm totally diggin' the colour.

I had somewhat of the same problem as you; when I would wait at a stop light, the car would sometimes shut down on me. It might be the air intake manifold or the air intake tube (I'm not sure if they're the same thing), but have that checked out.

With interest rates on the climb, I think he wouldn't want to do that. After I paid 2,700 to get my car fixed, I realize that I have more to do to it! I need a new battery, struts, tires, I have an oil leak that won't go away, and is costing me a quart per week (thats an incredible ammount of oil loss in such a short ammount of time), and I have a CEL that won't go away. My car still purrs and it still tops out at 120 MPH (I'm afraid to take it any higher). Those early ES' are great cars. After 15-10 years, though, they WILL need something to to replace those old parts. It's true though, they can be a money pit because lexus parts aren't exactly cheap, and the fact that the car is 15 years old doesn't help either. I have somewhat of a problem finding some parts for myself despite the use of the internet. Lacebug Sydney is right, too. The payments that you make for your car would probably ammount to that of a loan. Oh, and, Shayan, your aidle air control isn't a cheap part to fix. It costed me close to $800 a few months back.

Yeah thats how I felt when I got my Lexus. There were SOO many problems with it, too. I paid 2700 to get everything fixed from knock sensors, motor mounts, tie rods, valve covers, intake valve, sway bar, sway bar links, ect., ect. I still have roblems with it, but I love the car. It has really good handling and people think its a like a '97-2000 when its really a '92. Amazing car and it only has 140K, which is really good for a car that old. I'm thinking about getting a GS as my next car.

Besides comfort issues, are there any notorious mechanical problems?

I'm looking to buy an IS 300. I currently own a 92 ES, but I want a newer Lex that , of course, appeals to me. The IS is the model. Since I dont know much about them, I was hoping someone could inform me of any major issues, if any, and their reliability. I just need to know what to look out for and whatnot.

I had a similar problem. As it turned out, it was the air intake tube. It was cracked so hardly any air was getting into the engine.

My friend's 350Z was hit by a charter bus and the car was destroyed. Not mechanically, but bodily. He feared that the frame was bent and as it turned out, it was. This did result in pulling problems and tire lifespan shortage. Check your vehicle' carfax to see if it was in an accident.

I want to get a new alternator because I plan on installing a new sound system among other things. What I need to know is what is the output of the stock alternator that came with the 92 ES'. I hear its 100 amps, but then again, I hear its 80. I'm confused. I plan on replacing the alternator with this one: http://www.luxurymods.com/ProductDetail.ph...24&fid=1011

I know what the description says, but I just want to have that sense of security that 175 amps will suffice for my sound needs. I'm also aware of the much cheaper Higlander alternator but like I said before, I need that sense of security for a high-output Alternator.

now that with LED's in the background would be reall nice.

Although I can't give you any advice as I'm not a mechanic of any sort, I can safely assume that your scenario is probably my biggest fear.

Wow, it looks really nice. Is there a time frame in which you NEED to sell it?

I have a question for that too. I have an oil leak in what appears to be towards the back of the engine. The said leak causes me to loose about a quart of oil a month! its quite irritating as you can probably assume, and it seems to be getting worse! Yesturday, for example, I went and got my oil changed, and this morning, when it was somewhat cool, I back up from the garage only to find a rather large puddle of oil on the floor. Its so annoying to smell that burning oil in the morning or when I get out of the car. What could be the cause of this?

Change the transmissino fluid anyways because it's good for you.

The problem is the dogbone mount has worn out. Probably the rest of the engine mounts too, but that's the one that keeps the torque rocking to a minimum.

I agree with Toysmre. I had the same problem with the engine mounts and for a while thought it waqs the AT. My mechanic showed them to me after he repolaced them and they looked F-ed up for lack of a better word. I checked my AT fluids and it was perfect. Again, have the engine mounts checked.

tire kingdom, midas, firestone, pep boys, ect. my question is how much did it cost you to replace all the bushings? i need to replace mine too.

I want my car to look tight as hell. I have an ES 300 1992, pearl white and I need to know what medium size wheels I should put on. I'm not going on performance obviously, but rather looks. The only problem is that I don't know anything about wheel dimensions, especially for an old ES like that. Any picture samples would help, too.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the input.

YES! Finally, an answer to my post. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I get around. I have no tools, but I have money, although not enough to get a new car, I'm only 18. I'm most likely not going to change the engine mounts because I have no time much less experience and tools for that matter. To have someone do it for me, including the cost of the parts, how much will that round up to be? Also, why is AT fluid so important that it NEEDS to be changed? For some reason I saw it as something similar to an oil change - change it, but it wont necessarily need it urgently.

oh yeah, I forgot to mention that the "kick" also happens when I shift from Reverse to Drive, vice versa, and Park to Reverse. Also, Park to 2nd, but I haven't tried from Park to Low or Reverse to Low and Drive to Low. It does not happen when I shift from any gear to Neutral.

I have a 1992 Es 300 with about 137,000 miles and every time I shift from Park to Drive, the kicks really hard and makes a weird ‘thump’ kinda sound. I think it might be the transmission but I’m not sure. Any suggestions or propositions?

I had, what seems to be, the same problem. As it turned out, it was my rotors that were warped. I paid about 280 for all new four rotors and and pads.

I have a 92 ES with 134K+ Mi and I was wondering how much a new cluster from either Lexus or an outside source would cost me. 300? 400? 500? I was also wondering what would happen to my milage count if I did get a new one. Can the milage be recalibrated?

as soon as I turn my car on, it idles at 2K RMP's. When I'm at a stop the car idles at around 1500. The car seems pretty good to me...