Thi

If it's a timming belt then I don't think that the car starts again, and if the belt is off by one tooth then it will run rough all the time. There are a number of things that can cause the low or rough idle problem: moisture in ignition coil/wire, ISC motor (idle control motor: control the amound of air for fuel mixture), bad sparkplug, .... You probably want to read the code from the ECU and see if the computer log any code. Then check the sparkplugs and wires before check some other stuffs.

The engine cranks fine. The starter and battery are new. When its malfunctioning, it just won't fire. Not even once. It's as if you had no fire to the spark plugs but as I undersatnd it lack of fuel pressure could do the same thing. The problem is the malfunction is intermittant - it recurs variably after 1,2 days or it waits a week or a month. Then - it just won't start. Absolutely without warning. Car can be running fine, stop to get gas or run and errand and then it just won't start. I am having the exact problem with my 94 ls. Mechanic is telling me it's the ECM but I'm not convinced. I have 188K miles and it's never failed to start right up until last week after work - starter would crank and crank but no fire. Left it at work and next day at lunch tried it again and it fired right up and ran great. Drove it home in the evening no problem, then did a fillup and to the grocery - came out of the store and it would not hit a lick! I'm browsing through this forum for any ideas - Because the problem is intermittent, it doesn't appear to me to be the computer - wouldn't a bad computer cause it to never crank? On a side note - when I came out of the grocery and car failed to crank, I found a puddle of gasoline under my car at the gas door. I didn't overfill the tank - what would cause this? Thanks for any help you guys - I love my car and want to keep it, but I can't afford to let the mehanic start changing out parts till he finds the right problem. Interesting! Well, I have no gas leak, but maybe you have a different problem. The mechanics wanted to start changing out parts for me too with me funding the research!! First they changed the fuel pump, telling me it had low fuel pressure. No change. Then they changed the "fuel pump control module", for about $550, no change. At least I got a refund for that. Its at the shop again and they want to change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I really don't think that will fix it either since the engine runs perfectly smooth when it runs. When that happens, I would think that they want to check each spark plug wires and see if they have spark. If not, trace back to ignition coil, ECU, ... A low tech solution, remove each spark plug and see if it's wet from fuel; that means there's no spark goes to it. For fuel, they can check the signal at each injector, fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator, fuel return line. Hope you get it fix. Hope you find the solution for it. Thi Well, my guy thinks he has narrowed this down to the ECM ($1200) ouch!! He has determined: * NO FUEL PRESSURE * NO SPARK * NO INJECTOR PULSE Can anyone recommend where I might get this computer for less $$????? And if this sounds likely to be my problem??? If that's a dealer or some independence shop, you want them to guarantee that's the problem; otherwise, you want the money back, written agreement. If you want new part, I ordered some parts through "ParkPlacePlanoParts.com/Lexus" and have good luck with them, plus they are much cheaper than my local dealer. If you don't need a California ECM, they sell one for $752 (1992 model). Go in the catalog and search for ECM. With electronic part, be careful because they usually don't take it back once you buy it. I talked with them on the phone before and they are nice and helpful. Other option would be local junk yard, make sure you can return it if that's not the problem. Unless it's a lot cheaper than the dealer mentioned above, you'll be probably better buying it new.

The engine cranks fine. The starter and battery are new. When its malfunctioning, it just won't fire. Not even once. It's as if you had no fire to the spark plugs but as I undersatnd it lack of fuel pressure could do the same thing. The problem is the malfunction is intermittant - it recurs variably after 1,2 days or it waits a week or a month. Then - it just won't start. Absolutely without warning. Car can be running fine, stop to get gas or run and errand and then it just won't start. I am having the exact problem with my 94 ls. Mechanic is telling me it's the ECM but I'm not convinced. I have 188K miles and it's never failed to start right up until last week after work - starter would crank and crank but no fire. Left it at work and next day at lunch tried it again and it fired right up and ran great. Drove it home in the evening no problem, then did a fillup and to the grocery - came out of the store and it would not hit a lick! I'm browsing through this forum for any ideas - Because the problem is intermittent, it doesn't appear to me to be the computer - wouldn't a bad computer cause it to never crank? On a side note - when I came out of the grocery and car failed to crank, I found a puddle of gasoline under my car at the gas door. I didn't overfill the tank - what would cause this? Thanks for any help you guys - I love my car and want to keep it, but I can't afford to let the mehanic start changing out parts till he finds the right problem. Interesting! Well, I have no gas leak, but maybe you have a different problem. The mechanics wanted to start changing out parts for me too with me funding the research!! First they changed the fuel pump, telling me it had low fuel pressure. No change. Then they changed the "fuel pump control module", for about $550, no change. At least I got a refund for that. Its at the shop again and they want to change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I really don't think that will fix it either since the engine runs perfectly smooth when it runs. When that happens, I would think that they want to check each spark plug wires and see if they have spark. If not, trace back to ignition coil, ECU, ... A low tech solution, remove each spark plug and see if it's wet from fuel; that means there's no spark goes to it. For fuel, they can check the signal at each injector, fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator, fuel return line. Hope you get it fix. Hope you find the solution for it. Thi

Hi, It was awhile back when I went on the big auction site and looked around for HID kit along with seller who has good reviews. I just looked recently but I'm not sure if that outfit is still selling the kit, too bad. The kit that I got just a 3rd party so no big name, infact I don't recall any real name on it. Anyway it does the job fine. If I buy another kit, I would look around and read sellers' reviews and see what other people say about the kit. It would be good if the seller also has a store web site and phone number so you can contact them if needed. Thi

Ok, if you cannot start it even after seating overnight, that's one more data point. When you say it does not start, does the engine crank or there's no sound or just clicking from the starter solenoid? When that happen, how do you get it to start again? Thi

When it does not start, I assume that it cranks but the engine does not run. First, I would think that they read the computer code and see if there's any code. Second, when it does not start, I assume that they check for fuel pressure then check for sparks. If there's no spark, they want to check the ignition coils and see if they are in spec. Then they want to trace back from there...computer or any other inputs that causes no spark. It does not hurt to check the compression either because you need spark, fuel, and compression for a combustion engine to work. The symptom sounds like heat related. After you run your car then let it sits for awhile, heat from engine or exhaust transfers to nearby component. Once, I had a problem with a difference car (not Lexus) which had trouble starting when hot. The problem was the starter solenoid which was located near the exhaust.

You may want to ask if there's any leak around the power steering pump or if it has been replaced in the record. When I bought my used car, the previous owner had to replace the ps pump along with the alternator. Are the tires wear evenly, if not, it could need alignment or some suspension fix. Thi

If it's a cold morning then you may see white smoke at start up which is OK. Other possible cause of white smoke would be leak in head gasket. Does the smoke smell sweet (like antifreeze) or rich (too much gas)? Thi

I got a kit from the auction site which came with bulbs, ballasts, and connectors. As far as adjustment, left/right, low/hight, you just have to adjust the screws around the light housing for that. I got the kit amost a year ago for around $120. Thi

I got the 6000K temperature bulbs and they are nice and pure white, they call it diamond white. On another note, these SC400s drive and handle like dream, classy sport coupe. Thi

Got a set of after market HID for my SC400, they are the best investment so far. It's pretty much plug and play. I've been using them for serveral months without any issues. Thi

Sorry to waste the bandwidth, I should have done a search first. Anyway, found this: "On a '92, the low port is on the compressor, the high port is in front of the radiator, sitcking up through the plastic shroud. Get the angled adapter for the high port. The receiver/drier is by the driver's side headlight."

Hello, I need to check the freon for my 92 SC400; so I need to locate the location for the low and high sides. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Thi

Hi, It sounds like there's some kind of shorted in wiring. If I were you, I would disconnect the stereo's power in order to isolate the problem. If you gonna trouble shoot the problem at home, you definitely need the service manuals in order to remove panel, and trace the wirings. Thi

The cut off switch only effected the A/C in my car, not the stereo. Thi Interested to know would your stereo play while the ac cutoff? because I am having a similar problem with my 96 LX ←

Zim, The radiator was clogged in several places. I used an infrared thermometer in order to scan across the radiator in order to determine some cold spots. I could take it to a local shop in order to get it clean, but it was not an option at the time. I just purchased a rebuilt unit and replaced it. We had to remove the fan, fan clutch, tranny cooling hose. My brother and I replaced it in several hours. Thi What was wrong with your radiator and what did you have to do to fix it? Thanks Zim 94 SC400 140k ←

When you say the tranny throws out fluid, where is it (filler tube,...)? Beside the little tranny cooler, I believe that there's an oil connector to the main radiator also. You may want to use an infrared thermometer and scan across the radiator surface and see if there are any possible blockages. Beside the radiator, there's a fan clutch, and thermostat that need to be checked also. I had the problem with the A/C and finally had to replace the radiator. Flushing did not fix the problem for me. Thi

My 97 LX 450 had intermittence A/C cut off, the radiator was the culprit. When the temperature rises above a certain point, the A/C is cut off. Thi

Rookie, Thanks for the good link! 20 tons wow, I thought that I can use a puller or something. You and Doug have much knowledge about these truck. Thi

Well, I've looking at the U-Joint, Exhaust, control arm, but still not see anything rubbing with each other. One thing that I noticed is one of the bushing of the leading control arm worn out. Anyone replace the bushing before? Can I get by without any special tool? I took the car to Lexus over the weekend. They said that my car was in a wrech before (I knew that); so body & suspension parts are rubbing against each others. They said that they cannot fix it, and refer me to a body shop. It seems like they did not know exactly where's the exact noise source though. It did not make the noise when I bought the car; so some part must be worn out or something. Thi

Rookie, Do you think that it's loose/going bad or hitting something? I just put some more grease in the joint figure that it helps the thing operates more smoothly. Doug, When I brake the car does not make the noise so I don't think that it's brake related. The rubber block that I mentioned is position on the left side (passenager side) of the transfer case. I also see a big plate right underneath the transfer case also. I don't think that I'll go off road anytime soon :D Thi

Thanks guys. I'll look some more and will report back with any new finding. Thi

Thanks guys for the fast replies. It's more of a clunk sounds. More accurately, it's a series of clunking sound in a row then stop, not real cloud, but enough to be ennoying <_< I checked around the muffler, pipe, various heat shields, and did not see anything unusual. I'll check the shock absorbers and see if any of them loose. One more note, the transfer case has a bracket that has a big chunk of square rubber piece attached to it (under the passenger side near the catalytic converter). There's a bolt that goes from the bottom, then through the piece of rubber, and bracket. There's a big gap between the bolt and the piece. It looks kind of unsual, does your truck have the same set up? If needed, I can take a picture sometimes and post a link here. Thi

Recently, my 97 LX 450 makes some noise during turning or acceleration (sometimes); from what I can tell, it sounds like underneath the passenger side & center console. I have been looking for anything loose underneath the truck, but could not find anything yet. I'm thinking about replacing the rear shock absorber. Does anyone know if stock Landcruiser shock absorber will fit the Lexus 450? Any other suggestion related to the noise or shock absorber are welcome. Thanks. Thi

Well, I spoke too soon. Both of the light bulbs in my 450 went out the other day. I just got a pair of Xenon from Walmart. They are pretty good but does not seem as bright in color compare to SilverStar bulb. Thi