carlexes330

On 8/6/2011 at 5:29 PM, Syzygy said:

Worked like a charm on my '04. Thanks for saving me a trip to the dealer!!

Yep when I bought my brand new lexus ES330 from the dealer there was a sticker on the window saying "the fitted tires may last 10,000 miles" oe Toyo tires ...at 9000 miles they were almost bald . At my next service I had already replaced them with Goodyear YK520s and questioned the service manager about these 10,000 mile tires. He told me if I had brought the car back he could have done something for me .....but as the oe toyo tires were not on the vehicle ...aah well. Now 234,000 miles on and with Goodyear comfort tread tires on with a 60k mile warranty all is good. 

Wow a nine year old battery and its been a battery too long hence your low 9.8 volts . The alternator is definitely bad. Replace with a new not reconditioned one. More expensive but worth the cost unless you want to be replacing it again. Charge your battery and then get it tested at one of the pep boys, kragen autoparts stores. If it checks out good then no need to replace but usually batteries last 4 to 5 years so now you battery voltage is 9.8 v you may finds its trash even after recharging as the capacity is diminshed. You alternator is dead and unable to charge your battery , Good luck and post your update 

Why does it need replacing? What is the problem?

KYB all the way . Excellent product

Get them from Rockauto.com

Look out for Haynes manuals they basically strip down a car and rebuild it they are very good manuals www.haynes.com

ill certainly be purchasing from rock auto and with discounts and warranties available makes it all worthwhile

I don't trust eBay for parts like that. Especially when you can get brand name parts from www.Rockauto.com for better than eBay pricing without the questionable 'white box' quality and no warranty...

I'm debating this too, considering the new control arm [for a 2001] on rockauto works out to 120$ more for the two in the front than just the bushings & balljoints. But i don't need to change mine yet.

Yep the pricing for the new control arms are on par with Ebay but the warranty with Rock Auto is 5 years 100,000 miles thanks for the tip. I also found a 5% discount using THOP1212 as a coupon code. I found the control arms with bushings and ball joints for $77 each that's almost the price for the bushings and balljoints alone.

I have found that its easier and cheaper to replace the whole control arm with bushings already installed than it is to remove and replace the bushings in the original control arms all are available on Ebay

I have noticed that the lower control arm bushings are cracking and need replacing anyone used the Red Energy bushings or the Danzien ones ? Looks as if they come in a two piece kit (male and female) for ease of installation( Once you have burned out the originals with a torch). I guess that unless you have a drill press available the originals can't be installed

lol, ooops, yip makes no sense

We'll let it slide....this time! ;)

Any recommendations as to when this steering fluid gets replaced didn't find anything online or how to do it. I believe its a case of remove one or both hoses and drain down and refill or to suction out the power sterring fluid cylinder and just top up ? Any recommendations ? I also read that you must use Toyota Dexron 4 fluid ?Thanks in advance

Sunroof opens normally but when i push the switch for it to close all the way it closes but it doesn't tilt up to level with the exterior roof any ideas?

On a lot of cars if the battery has been removed or gone dead it is neccessary for the windows and sunroof to relearn. On Lexus the procedure is easy. run the engine, open the roof fully keep the open button held for 5 seconds or so after it is fully open then slide the roof fully forward hold the switch in the full closed position for five or ten seconds and the motor relearns the open and closed positions.Hope that helps

1997 ES300 (200K+)

AC light flashing

Local, non-Lexus mechanic, has diagnosed that my 97 ES300 has either a bad Control Head ($1K-ish to replace) or bad compressor clutch (<$1Kish to replace). Both may be refurbished/remanufactured as necessary. No control codes help. Compress does not have any noise at all! Just doesn't stay engaged most of the time. Coolant pressure is fine (just replaced recently!) AC is cold WHEN it works. AC comes on/goes off in about a 1-2 second cycle. I can sometimes get the AC to stay on (30-40% or less of the time) by continuing to press the AC button when the AC disengages. Once connected, AC is cold and it sometimes can stay on for 30-60 minutes if driving on the interstate. Local driving (slowing down) almost always 'kills' the engagement.

So, is my problem the Control Head (electronics) or the compressor? How can I be sure?

TIA

Check your refrigerant charge R134A you can get a kit from your local parts shop Pep boys,Autozone, Kragens even walmart sells it. Attach gauge and can to low side of system(The hose cannot be attached to the wrong side as different sizes) and have your AC on high speed and coldest setting and check the PSIG readings on the gauge should be between 25 and 45 PSIG if fully charged readings over or below those means under or overcharged .It helps if you do this check when the weather is warmer ie sunny and hot than cloudy and cold or raining . Hope that helps

I'll tear it all apart tomorrow and see what I can seee thanks for the info

Total shock and horror I had a jammed on rear caliper on the left side which caused the brake pad to wear down and start scoring the brake disc so after a clean up of the caliper and replaced the rear set of brake pads and one new brake disc later all is back up and running so now all is cool and while I was there i checked the wheel bearings and all is fine thanks for the info guys (Forgot about replying to this post replacement was done that same day)

Are you saying to use the Toyota-branded fluid for the transmission as well?

Does my car have a plug to drain the transmission fluid, thus not requiring the pan to be dropped?

And, do you know how many gallons I will need to buy of the coolant and transmission fluid?

Thanks,

Anovice

Yes, use Toyota branded transmission fluid and coolant. I think your ES has a drain plug for the transmission but I am not entirely sure. As for the capacites, you should be able to find them in your owner's manual. Remember that the coolant has to be diluted with water.

The ultra long life coolant comes ready to use its red in color and doesnt need to be watered down .

I could see that working on the exterior of the plastic lenses but certainly not on the interior which is how mine started to go ...however a quick look at Ebay got a couple of replacement HID headlights for $130 a pair shipped excellent

I'll tear it all apart tomorrow and see what I can seee thanks for the info

When I am going into a right hand bend my right rear wheel makes a noise like a dry wheel bearing doesn't happen when turning into a left hand bend . I have checked the wheels brakes bearings and cannot find any fault and its not the tires rubbing on the wheelarches ...help before I can only turn into left hand bends!!!!!

If you purchased a 2005 car in August of 2006 it was not new...even though the car was purchased in August of 2006 that doesn't change the fact that it was manufactured in 2005...or even 2004 depending on how early in the model year it was built. The car existed and was presumably operated before you bought it. I can't believe a new 05 would still be on a dealer's lot in August of '06 when the '07s were coming out. The car is 4-5 years old...thats a fact. Look on the drivers doorjamb, it will show the manufacturing month and year of the car.

Why do you think that they put dye in the system at 34k miles if nobody was ever going to look for the dye. Like you said you apparently are an engineer...would that make sense to you? Had you had the dealer look at the car after they put the dye in you're right, it would have been taken care of in one swoop. But YOU didn't. The dealer can't make you bring the car in.

You are not without culpability here. My feeling is that they did indeed suggest you come back in to have the dye looked at, or maybe they figured you would be in for your next service in 5k miles and didn't come back until 49k miles, or something like that. Your A/C was working just fine so you didn't bother to take the car back in to have the dye looked at, and the freon evaporated again and it destroyed the condenser. I think their offer to pay for the repair 50/50 is more than fair.

Now if its not operating properly now after the repair thats a different issue, take it back and I bet they will make it right.

Its a car and it needs maintenance and it has a warranty period just like anything else. They did what they told you was a temporary repair at 35k miles and you neglected to follow up on that repair to have them look for the dye and the condensor failed after another 20k miles. Your fault. The dealer services hundreds of cars, you have to stay on top of maintaining your vehicle yourself.

If you want to file lawsuits and waste your time thats your business, but at some point you have to take responsibility for your own actions. The car is out of warranty...you could have purchased an extended warranty if you wanted to. You keep saying "elite dealership" like that means something. It means their customers have rated them highly, thats all. Same techs...same cars. Better service maybe. Also leads me to believe that this is more your fault than theirs.

The car was bought off the lot and registered new in august 2006 ...it was a late 2005 model brand new registered in 2006 so it was a new car

If you purchased a 2005 car in August of 2006 it was not new...even though the car was purchased in August of 2006 that doesn't change the fact that it was manufactured in 2005...or even 2004 depending on how early in the model year it was built. The car existed and was presumably operated before you bought it. I can't believe a new 05 would still be on a dealer's lot in August of '06 when the '07s were coming out. The car is 4-5 years old...thats a fact. Look on the drivers doorjamb, it will show the manufacturing month and year of the car.

Why do you think that they put dye in the system at 34k miles if nobody was ever going to look for the dye. Like you said you apparently are an engineer...would that make sense to you? Had you had the dealer look at the car after they put the dye in you're right, it would have been taken care of in one swoop. But YOU didn't. The dealer can't make you bring the car in.

You are not without culpability here. My feeling is that they did indeed suggest you come back in to have the dye looked at, or maybe they figured you would be in for your next service in 5k miles and didn't come back until 49k miles, or something like that. Your A/C was working just fine so you didn't bother to take the car back in to have the dye looked at, and the freon evaporated again and it destroyed the condenser. I think their offer to pay for the repair 50/50 is more than fair.

Now if its not operating properly now after the repair thats a different issue, take it back and I bet they will make it right.

Its a car and it needs maintenance and it has a warranty period just like anything else. They did what they told you was a temporary repair at 35k miles and you neglected to follow up on that repair to have them look for the dye and the condensor failed after another 20k miles. Your fault. The dealer services hundreds of cars, you have to stay on top of maintaining your vehicle yourself.

If you want to file lawsuits and waste your time thats your business, but at some point you have to take responsibility for your own actions. The car is out of warranty...you could have purchased an extended warranty if you wanted to. You keep saying "elite dealership" like that means something. It means their customers have rated them highly, thats all. Same techs...same cars. Better service maybe. Also leads me to believe that this is more your fault than theirs.

Well here we are running the repaired AC and it works fine when the weather is cold ..however when I get a warm day (we have lots of them in California ) my AC light starts flashing !!! and I lose the AC functionality ...

I have the car maintained every 5K as per the manual and the (Elite) dealership failed to see any dye leaks therefore I'd assume there weren't any ! Plus who usually runs the AC in the winter months ? Anyways the car will be going in for another repair . BARS where very helpful and I was told that any future issues be brought to the VP of the servicing dept and guess what I am certain he has the authority to ensure this customer receives the service I expected ...I wont waste my time with lawsuits the car will be topped off with Freon and sold back to the dealership in the event of the issue still being a problem .

If you purchased a 2005 car in August of 2006 it was not new...even though the car was purchased in August of 2006 that doesn't change the fact that it was manufactured in 2005...or even 2004 depending on how early in the model year it was built. The car existed and was presumably operated before you bought it. I can't believe a new 05 would still be on a dealer's lot in August of '06 when the '07s were coming out. The car is 4-5 years old...thats a fact. Look on the drivers doorjamb, it will show the manufacturing month and year of the car.

Why do you think that they put dye in the system at 34k miles if nobody was ever going to look for the dye. Like you said you apparently are an engineer...would that make sense to you? Had you had the dealer look at the car after they put the dye in you're right, it would have been taken care of in one swoop. But YOU didn't. The dealer can't make you bring the car in.

You are not without culpability here. My feeling is that they did indeed suggest you come back in to have the dye looked at, or maybe they figured you would be in for your next service in 5k miles and didn't come back until 49k miles, or something like that. Your A/C was working just fine so you didn't bother to take the car back in to have the dye looked at, and the freon evaporated again and it destroyed the condenser. I think their offer to pay for the repair 50/50 is more than fair.

Now if its not operating properly now after the repair thats a different issue, take it back and I bet they will make it right.

Its a car and it needs maintenance and it has a warranty period just like anything else. They did what they told you was a temporary repair at 35k miles and you neglected to follow up on that repair to have them look for the dye and the condensor failed after another 20k miles. Your fault. The dealer services hundreds of cars, you have to stay on top of maintaining your vehicle yourself.

If you want to file lawsuits and waste your time thats your business, but at some point you have to take responsibility for your own actions. The car is out of warranty...you could have purchased an extended warranty if you wanted to. You keep saying "elite dealership" like that means something. It means their customers have rated them highly, thats all. Same techs...same cars. Better service maybe. Also leads me to believe that this is more your fault than theirs.

Does the 9.1 ver of Gen 04 Navi make me lose the override option I have on the 2005 edition? I got the new one for a Christmas gift because living in Orlando, my old map is seriously out of date. But I do like having the option of a passenger putting in destinations while in motion.

the upgrade will make you lose your option while in motion ....I want my option back Lexus !!!!

Thanks for the feedback.

I looked over the engine and it looks fairly easy to change the filter. I just received a notice from my local Toyota dealer (owned by the same family as the Lexus dealer) for an oil change with "genuine" Toyota oil and filter for $24.95. Sounds like the same as what you would get at Lexus. This might also be the way to go. See what I feel like doing when 10k arrives. Don't know what the Toyota labor rate is but Lexus is $93 an hour.

The toyota service is really great and i alternate between Lexus who charges me $249 for the service or $89 from Toyota same fluids same filters etc etc .

96 ES 300, kid puts on the parking brake and then backs out of driveway. As he attempts to pull away in forward he recognizes the brake is on and releases it Notices burning smell and grinding noise during 5 mile drive. Afterwards I'm told "Hey Dad, something's wrong with the Lexus". Nice.

Car moves in reverse, no problem. When moving forward, front wheels turn, but rear tires alternate getting locked up. Rears may make half a rotation then freeze.

Car spends it's nights outside in freezing temps. We had an ice storm last night. The brake issue occurs 20 minutes after the car was started for the first time today.

Beside teaching the teen to park it when he's got a problem like this, any one have any suggestions, and if so is it a DIY solution?

Thanks

bbm

Heres some info about removing and replacing the rear disc/drum combo and adjustment

"The rear brakes have the emergency brake pads on the INSIDE of the Rotor.

Once you remove the caliper and the brake pads the Rotor is easily accessable.

However in my case the rotor would NOT COME OFF.

REMEMBER the old fashion REAR DRUM BRAKES where the shoes push out against the drum when you pressed on the brake pedal ???The ES emergency brake is the same setup but its on the INSIDE of the Rotor.

The little brake shoes push out against the inside of the rotor when you pull the emercengy brake.(Never did find a good supplier of those tiny emergency brake pads?)

On the Rotor where the lug nut posts come thru look for a HOLE about the size you can put a screwdriver in. Usually a rubber slotted bung is in that hole.

ROTATE the rotor so this hole is at the BOTTOM of the rotor.

Take a flash light and in the hole you should see a little cog type adjustment which you can adjust with a

flat blade screw driver. If you do not see it right away move the rotor left or right until you do.

Take a flat blade screw driver and move the adjustment up or down to MOVE the Brake shoes inside the rotor IN or OUT.

I forget which way moves in or out but you can tell as the Rotor will LOCK up and you cannot turn it when you are moving the brake shoes OUT, or it will turn freely when you are moving the shoes AWAY from the Rotor walls.

Keep adjusting it until the Rotor can be pulled off, then put on the new Rotor and adjust the shoes back out

until the Rotor will not turn then back them off a bit until the rotor turns freely.

Put the new pads and the caliper back on and you are done. "

I'll be adjusting mine this morning :)

I have an ES300 with 34,000 miles. Consumers Reports states that the Goodyear Assurance Triple Tred is the best tire rated for the size P215/60R16. Do any of you members out there have any experience with these tires? Thanks in advance for your replies.

I have the tripletreds installed on my es330 and with a 65K warranty from discount tires and about 5000 miles on them at present I happy with the tires. i have tried various others Yokohama Avid V4s (worn out after 20K) Yokohama YK520s (managed to make them last 23K) I have no wear at all on these tripletreds.