Frankie_B

Toysrme, Stock Pioneer audio, 205/65/15 tires, stocks rims. No mods to the car, really. I'm rather light @ 170 lbs. Prior to the test, I spent a few minutes practicing good reaction times with the stopwatch.. Think I almost mastered it. The funny thing is, during one of the test, a guy sitting next to me at the traffic light though i was gonna race him...Well, I ended up "losing" to a Dodge truck...not that it really matters. SK, A friend of mine will be bringing my a few cans of that stuff, I'll certainly try it, too.

Hey again everybody, Well, the ES i have was purchased this past April (105k miles now), and I knew I wasn't buying a fast car. However, when I looked in the specs, they said 0-60 from 8.0 to 8.6 secs ( http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/art.../0-60times.html ), so I decided to do some testing, and the best result I could end up with was 10.0 secs. (a number of trials, reaction time as good as possible, etc). That's close to what I had in a 2.3L Accord... <_< Bien sur, the car was empied of all the stuff usually kept in the trunk. I have also changed: - Spark Plugs (NGK Platinum) - Oil (Mobil 1 Synthetic) - Tires (Bridgestone Potenza G009) - Air Filter checked and is clean - Cleaned the Throttle Body (done at a shop, so i took their word for it) Any ideas what else could be in the way of achieving specified numbers? Would tranny fluid do anything at all? Don't blame me for my persuit of perfection, lol. Cheers!

Trying to find the most efficient way to drive the car on long distances, I started thinking about the "optimum" highways speed. Of course I could drive at 2000 rpm and keep it just around 55 mph, have excellent gas milage but then fall asleep behind the wheel because I'd be barely moving. But driving at over 85 mph and 3000 rpm seems to be getting hard on the gas milage What do you find is the best combination of speed and gas milage for the ES, provided it has to be over 60 mph? Anybody has a graph of fuel flow vs. rpm - that'd be an excellent aid!

Hello, I found this Timing Belt and Water Pump kit on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Lexus-ES300-V6-Timing-B...1QQcmdZViewItem At under $200, it's about half the price I've been quoted for the same parts in a local shop. The question is whether or not I should go ahead with this or not? They claim all parts to be "OEM", what do you think? Safe, no safe? Danke!

I see The reason i changed plugs was because we just bought the car and the installed plugs appeared to have never been changed! I'm hoping for increased fuel economy more than for power. P.S. speaking of that, do I have to reset the ECU for it to "recognize" the plugs?

Thanks a lot, Been a great help. I ended up buying NGK Platinum's. The durabilty isn't such an issue for me, as I rarely keep a car for more than 2 years/50,000 kms. Just wondering though, "Platinums are now irrelevant" - as in totally horrible waste of money?

Hello everybody, I have a 98 ES300 and was going to change the plugs today. From what i've read here, NGK are one of the better ones, so i went to a store to buy them. The guy asked me for the "Engine Code" (8th letter of the VIN, whether it was an "F" or not). Mine is "G". He then said NGK Iridium or Platinum plugs are not compatible with this engine and I'd have to go with Bosch <_< Is this right? Does anybody know the part number of the iridium NGK's that would fit? Thanks!

Well, there ya go! ;) You answered your own question.

Hello everybody, My pleasure to be part of this great forum I bought a 98 ES300 a few days back for a rather low price due to a few malfunctions. The driver side door lock will only open manually (no power lock effect, neither from remote or switch inside). All other power locks function normally. I've read it could be the lock actuator, which should be quite easy to install, I assume. The dealers here in Canada want up to $500 for this part. Perhaps you know of any places where I could order it a little cheaper? (it isn't on eBay as of today) Also, when I'm using the remote, there is a subtle clicking sound coming from the driver's door - so there must be _something_ happening. Maybe I should check something else before ordering the actuator? Thanks for any head ups!