SCRider

dude just get an aftermarket amp, it might be cheaper and work a lot better

are these pretty simple to do? How would i go about fixing a sticky injector and how do i put a timing light on the plugs?

So no one has any ideas what's wrong with it? Well I'm guessing it's because my vacuum hoses that are connected to the hcv but i dunno...i'm taking ideas pleeeeease help...i'm bout to just junk my car that i enjoy driving but it's given me so many headaches

when my car was misfiring last year the mechanic said i needed new trac switches...but misfiring can be caused by many things...water in vacuum hoses, or possible air leakage in one of the hoses, also sparkplugs or wires could have gotten moist. Good luck with your problem because I almost had it with my 92 sc...had to replace so much crap on the freaking car, but the thing is i've replaced so many things i can't just give up now.

Actually if you turn the key and it cranks then it's the battery or the alternator, but if you turn the key and all you hear are clicks then I'm 95% sure it's your starter because I had the same problem with my starter. Hope That helps

I didn't really pay attention but i'm pretty sure it idles at 2500-2700 rpm at cold start

How does it idle when it's shaking - smooth or lumpy? Does it stumble and come close to stalling? It idle's fine...everything appears normal. Accelerates fine, brakes fine. It shake's the most when it starts cold. After the engine warms up it's not so bad.

Ok I had just recently changed my radiator and my serpentine belt again even though I had changed the belt only about a year ago. Car was driving fine for a few days, actually it still drives pretty smooth. My problem is when engine starts cold it starts shaking, not tremendously but enough to know that it's abnormal, as the engine heats up to normal temp the shaking decreases. Before I had taken the car to a radiator inspector and they told me I needed a new heater control valve, they took the HCV out and replaced it with an aluminum pipe. When I brought the car in it was running smooth and when I got the car back the engine shook a lot. I took it to a more experienced mechanic and they told me that the place I took it to got moisture into one of the hose so they cleaned it out for me free of charge. Even with that aluminum pipe the car ran fine for a few days, but now I have the shaking problem, could it be from that or does anyone have any ideas what might be the issue? The car drives fine and the shaking comes in and out at times when the car is idling, only when the engine starts cold it seems to shake more. I mean should I just ride it out and see if it goes back to normal? I'm afraid to drive it because I don't want the issue to escalate. Can someone please help.

I had the same problem on me 92 sc300 just a little over a year ago and I had to change both front calipers. Solved my squealing problem, hope it solves yours.

I agree that there can be many issues to why your car doesn't start or stall out. I suggest check if your battery is weak, check if alternator isn't shorted out by power steering leak, spark plugs and wires could be bad or possibly a bad starter. These are just some ideas I can only think of from the top of my head. Good Luck!

Thanks I will give it a try

Hello everyone I've been having this minor problem with the brake warning light inside the car. When I make a right turn nothing happens, however when I make left turns the light comes on then turns off. This has actually been happening for about 2 years. I change the pads when worn, got new calipers, and rotors seems to be fine. It's just that light problem, does anyone else have a clue? It's not a big deal because the car runs almost perfect, but I would like to know if I can rid of the problem if it's not a difficult solution. Thanks

Thank you for all your insight and might i dare say also you're degrading comments. I realize that I shouldn't continue driving a car that's smoking but I was so close from home that I didn't want to pay the towing fee. Luckily for me not much was damaged but the tensioner, radiator and Heater control valve. Now i've already changed the tensioner and i'm waiting for my radiator to get here, but I have no clue where to get a heater control valve at a good price because the dealer wants like 400 bux!! for it. So does anyone know where I can get a good inexpensive one? Thanks in advance

I had the same problem with my car about a year ago after it died on me. Your car's symptoms sounded exactly like what I had, but unfortunately I have to tell you that with that kind of problem there are many possiblilities. With the sputtering and hesitation of the engine it could be one of many through my knowledge of experience. First of all start with the less inexpensive issues like spark plugs & wires, rotors & caps, or check if there's water in your gas tank, you can eliminate it with the tank cleaners you see at auto shops. It could also be your trac switches...there's 2 under your hood, they're easy to locate, almost in the center, and like one of the other members has mention check your gaskets. Well that's all I can tell ya, but the solution to my problem was a new trac switch and professional tuning did the job. Good Luck!!

Okay so today I took apart everything that was connected to the radiator and the tensioner. I did check the radiator and it looked fine, but I did replace the tensioner. Also thought I'd change the oil while I was at it, and put everything back together. Started the engine and it seemed normal. Car temp was just a tad over half gauge so it seemed fine, then I drove it around a few blocks. Turned on the heat but only cold air was coming out. Also as I got out of the car I smelled something burning but it was more like a liquid burning. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? I could really use some help thanks.