SCRider

dude just get an aftermarket amp, it might be cheaper and work a lot better

are these pretty simple to do? How would i go about fixing a sticky injector and how do i put a timing light on the plugs?

So no one has any ideas what's wrong with it? Well I'm guessing it's because my vacuum hoses that are connected to the hcv but i dunno...i'm taking ideas pleeeeease help...i'm bout to just junk my car that i enjoy driving but it's given me so many headaches

when my car was misfiring last year the mechanic said i needed new trac switches...but misfiring can be caused by many things...water in vacuum hoses, or possible air leakage in one of the hoses, also sparkplugs or wires could have gotten moist. Good luck with your problem because I almost had it with my 92 sc...had to replace so much crap on the freaking car, but the thing is i've replaced so many things i can't just give up now.

Actually if you turn the key and it cranks then it's the battery or the alternator, but if you turn the key and all you hear are clicks then I'm 95% sure it's your starter because I had the same problem with my starter. Hope That helps

I didn't really pay attention but i'm pretty sure it idles at 2500-2700 rpm at cold start

How does it idle when it's shaking - smooth or lumpy? Does it stumble and come close to stalling? It idle's fine...everything appears normal. Accelerates fine, brakes fine. It shake's the most when it starts cold. After the engine warms up it's not so bad.

Ok I had just recently changed my radiator and my serpentine belt again even though I had changed the belt only about a year ago. Car was driving fine for a few days, actually it still drives pretty smooth. My problem is when engine starts cold it starts shaking, not tremendously but enough to know that it's abnormal, as the engine heats up to normal temp the shaking decreases. Before I had taken the car to a radiator inspector and they told me I needed a new heater control valve, they took the HCV out and replaced it with an aluminum pipe. When I brought the car in it was running smooth and when I got the car back the engine shook a lot. I took it to a more experienced mechanic and they told me that the place I took it to got moisture into one of the hose so they cleaned it out for me free of charge. Even with that aluminum pipe the car ran fine for a few days, but now I have the shaking problem, could it be from that or does anyone have any ideas what might be the issue? The car drives fine and the shaking comes in and out at times when the car is idling, only when the engine starts cold it seems to shake more. I mean should I just ride it out and see if it goes back to normal? I'm afraid to drive it because I don't want the issue to escalate. Can someone please help.

I had the same problem on me 92 sc300 just a little over a year ago and I had to change both front calipers. Solved my squealing problem, hope it solves yours.

I agree that there can be many issues to why your car doesn't start or stall out. I suggest check if your battery is weak, check if alternator isn't shorted out by power steering leak, spark plugs and wires could be bad or possibly a bad starter. These are just some ideas I can only think of from the top of my head. Good Luck!

Thanks I will give it a try

Hello everyone I've been having this minor problem with the brake warning light inside the car. When I make a right turn nothing happens, however when I make left turns the light comes on then turns off. This has actually been happening for about 2 years. I change the pads when worn, got new calipers, and rotors seems to be fine. It's just that light problem, does anyone else have a clue? It's not a big deal because the car runs almost perfect, but I would like to know if I can rid of the problem if it's not a difficult solution. Thanks

Thank you for all your insight and might i dare say also you're degrading comments. I realize that I shouldn't continue driving a car that's smoking but I was so close from home that I didn't want to pay the towing fee. Luckily for me not much was damaged but the tensioner, radiator and Heater control valve. Now i've already changed the tensioner and i'm waiting for my radiator to get here, but I have no clue where to get a heater control valve at a good price because the dealer wants like 400 bux!! for it. So does anyone know where I can get a good inexpensive one? Thanks in advance

I had the same problem with my car about a year ago after it died on me. Your car's symptoms sounded exactly like what I had, but unfortunately I have to tell you that with that kind of problem there are many possiblilities. With the sputtering and hesitation of the engine it could be one of many through my knowledge of experience. First of all start with the less inexpensive issues like spark plugs & wires, rotors & caps, or check if there's water in your gas tank, you can eliminate it with the tank cleaners you see at auto shops. It could also be your trac switches...there's 2 under your hood, they're easy to locate, almost in the center, and like one of the other members has mention check your gaskets. Well that's all I can tell ya, but the solution to my problem was a new trac switch and professional tuning did the job. Good Luck!!

Okay so today I took apart everything that was connected to the radiator and the tensioner. I did check the radiator and it looked fine, but I did replace the tensioner. Also thought I'd change the oil while I was at it, and put everything back together. Started the engine and it seemed normal. Car temp was just a tad over half gauge so it seemed fine, then I drove it around a few blocks. Turned on the heat but only cold air was coming out. Also as I got out of the car I smelled something burning but it was more like a liquid burning. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? I could really use some help thanks.

Okay so the conclusion is I need a new radiator and a new tensioner. The radiator i here is pretty simple and i can do that manually, but has anyone ever taken or replaced the tensioner? and what is the easiest way to do it? please help, thanks

Okay so here's my story. I was making an 1hr30 trip from one city to another, in my 92 sc300. As I was 20 minutes away from my destination my battery light came on. So I thought it's my alternator and now my car is running on the battery, 10 minutes after my trac light and check engine light came on. 5 minutes after that I see smoke coming from under the hood. Now at this point I could easily panic but I kept going trying my best to atleast make it to my destination. When I got to, I opened up my hood and then I see what is coolant liquid spewed all over the engine, my tensioner to the serpentine belt somehow broke. So here's my hypothesis, as I was driving, the tensioner broke and made the serpentine belt whipped a hose, which I found later, making coolant sprayed everywhere causing a lot of steam coming from the hood. I looked at the liquid and most of it seemed to be on the battery. Oh and I just wanted to say that it must've been one of the most embarrassing situation i've ever been in, I mean there was a lot of smoke. So my question is does anyone think my car can survive all of what's happened?, and how much does anyone think the damage is? PLEASE HELP!

omg thank you...i will try it and let u know how it turns out, but what about my other concern. What does CDS stand for? Also is there a signifcant to the radio no.1 and the CDS fuses?

ok just to make sure...my car was having the same sputtering problem about a year ago. Ever since then it's been in and out of body shops and I probably spent a fortune on different parts replacement. Here are just some things that the shops and I have replaced. Alternator, starter, spark plugs & wires, pcv valve, cap & rotors, serpentine belt. After all this the car seems to be running fine and no more sputtering, but however I know I probably need a new TRAC switch. Can anyone tell me where to get one for cheap because as far as I see, it's pretty simple to replace, and I would also like to know if after replacing it, do I have to adjust the timing or anything? Also want to know where exactly did you spray the WD-40, like in certain spots or just basically held the can up to the engine and just sprayed it everywhere?

Hello everyone I'm having electrical problems with my 92 sc300. Ok first of all, the fuses under the hood, there's a 20amp fuse that goes to radio no.1 that keeps going out right after I replace it. Also there's a 30amp fuse that goes to the CDS, now I'm just wondering what CDS stands for and is it important because apparently my car is running fine without those 2 fuses. Please LMK. thanks

Ok this problem has been with me for months now and I really don't know what is wrong with the car. I have a 92 sc300 and here's the short version of it. A few months ago my alternator died so I figure while I change that I mind as well change the spark plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, and serpentine belt. After all that my idle was too high and when I'm at a complete stop and start to accelerate the car starts to stutter, the TRAC light also on. So I took it to one local mechanic and they changed my pcv and my throttle sensor. Problem still exists, so I then took it to another mechanic that specialized in foreign cars and they adjusted it for me and the car runs fine. Now every so often the TRAC light goes off and my car stutters again, but then I drive it a few more times and TRAC light comes on and the car drives fine (please keep in mind that the mechanic adjusted my idle and throttle timing with the TRAC light on). OK so how do I fix this problem? Will someone please help me.

Ok my car has an idling problem and when it goes form 2 to 3 gear it hesitates. I saw that if you clean the IAC valve and the MAF that it will fix this problem. My question is where are these things located and how do I clean them. Can anyone please help me. thank you

Same problem here...changed the TPS and trac light is still on. Car loses power when switching gear. Could it be that my idle is not adjusted right?

I think I might have the same problem. Please let me know how you fix yours.

Thanks for the insight. I will definitely take your advice into consideration.