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I know this is a longshot since you already mentioned the engine was smashed, but is the bvsv valve still ok? It is right next to the iac valve.

Two months ago, I noticed the roof headlining was wet on the rear left passenger side. It was right at the edge where the headlining met the trim. It started about half way and it got more wet further back. I took the roof headlining off and noticed the 3 inch drain tubes on the left side was getting old, so I replaced them on the left and the right passenger side. Two days ago, I noticed the rear right passenger side was wet. Not moist like previously, but dripping wet. I took the headlining off again, but I couldn't see where the water was coming from. It has been off since and there is still no sign of water leakage. Does anyone have any ideas? The front of the car is fine. No water, it's just the back

Thanks! Something for me to do this weekend. How thick is that 3M pad you used?

hm. code 5 and 6 I looked up online from generic toyota odb1 codes. I checked the repair manual and there is no code 5,6, or 56. can you take another longer video? maybe like a minute long?

Does the car run properly? Is it consuming more or the same amount of gas as it has in the past? What and when was the last service performed on the car? If you go here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html The picture above step 10 shows the location of the two sensors. I believe, but I could be wrong. I don't have the repair manual until this weekend. Check to make sure those two sensors are plugged in tightly as well as any other wires that you can see in the engine bay. Do you have the ability and tools required to remove the oxygen sensors and test them?

Maybe it is code 5 and 6? 5 Oxygen Sensor. 6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse) The video is downloading right now so i'll take a look at it once it's finished.

How much for both headlights, steering wheel, shift handle and 2 screws that holds onto the cover over the spark plugs? What are the condition of these items?

chilkoot: Did you have the original plugs before you switched to the iridium ix? When you say "purr" do you mean the engine is smoother and/or better acceleration?

Would OEM plug be the laser platinum or the laser iridium?

I was doing some poking around the engine and I noticed that on the bank of sparkplugs on the driver's side is Denso while the bank on the passenger's side is NGK. The 91 ls400 now has about 151,000 miles and I'm going to change all of the spark plugs. I have searched the forums and can't find a definite answer of which plugs are best. Which one of the following spark plugs should I get? Is iridium significantly better than platinum? Iridium IX -$6.99 OE style laser Iridium -$7.99 OE style laser platinum -$7.99 G-power platinum -$2.99 I was thinking of maybe the OE style laser iridium??? Thanks

cardona6569: Maybe i'm missing something, but I don't see a tutorial on www.lexls.com on how to clean the air flow meter. Isn't it an optical system? Do i just wipe it with rubbing alcohol? 93ls400walt: I have 1/4 tank of gas right now. I'll try running seafoam through it a couple times. It does seem like it's a problem with the fuel system. Would a motorvac cleaning help after I ran seafoam through it a couple times? I never had one done before, I have just heard about it.

The MAF resistance was within tolerance of the manual when I took it out to test it. I tested the resistance of both coils and they were within tolerance also. Would it be possible for a part's resistance to be within tolerance but the part is bad?

I'm almost at the step where I want to take my 91 LS to the dealer and have them diagnose and fix it. Any ideas on where to start looking for problems would help. 2 months ago, I changed the timing belt myself. After the timing belt change, CEL error codes 13, 25 and 26 would show up occasionally. It didn't affect driving at all so I just ignored it. I noticed that sometimes driving on the highway, my foot would be in the same position, but for a second it felt like i lifted my foot off the gas pedal and placed it back on. Fast forward to now. The car still has the cel error codes. There seems to be two problems. Are they related? Problem 1: It starts fine and most of the time it's perfect. When the temperature is normal, sometimes all of the sudden the engine would act up. When the car is idling, all of the sudden as if the engine was no longer getting any air and was suffocating, the rpms will drop to 200 and stay that way for a second. Then the car will act as if the gas pedal was being pressed. It will rev up to about 1300 and then drop down to 600. Problem 2: While driving, all of the suddenly I loose power. Keeping my foot on the gas, there are periods when the engine seems to pick up and move and periods where nothing happens at all. Stepping and letting go of the gas pedal rapidly is very jerky but it seems to make the car move. I've looked around the engine and noticed the following: Spark plug wires are all under 25k resistance. The spark plugs on the passenger side bank all had a slightly damp black (carbon?) stuff on it. They do look a little old. The radiator cap has cracks in the rubber The transmission fluid is about .75 inches higher than the hot limit when the transmission is hot. I changed the rotor and the distributor a while back so they are fine. Resistance of the MAF is normal (according to the repair manual) The throttle position sensor's closed and .4mm open are normal. When it's fully open, it's an infinite resistance Engine coolant sensor is fine Using a timing gun and attaching it to spark plug wire 6, I see a 5 btdc which I know it's suppose to be higher than that ICV has a resistance of 50 So any ideas on what to look at next or replace? ECU? Fuel pump? TPS? ICV? changing the timing?

Actually, I had a little problem with the timing belt installation. I ordered a timing belt kit off ebay which consisted of OEM drive belt, timing belt, water pump and aftermarket idler bearings. Although the timing belt was oem and had the toyota sticker on it and everything, the only marking on the belt was the L cam, crank and a random dotted mark. I went to the Lexus dealer and they were nice enough to open a new belt and allow me to match up the crank markings and mark the L and R cam. My L cam marking was one tooth behind the original L cam marking on the belt. Putting on the timing belt, instead of the white marks on the pullies, there were yellow dots on the pulley and the engine. I lined up the crank line, the R cam marking that I made matched up with the yellow dot. For the L cam, matching up the yellow dot on the pulley and the engine resulted in using the original L cam mark on the belt, not the cam mark I made. So I just put it on, assuming as long as the dots lined up, it shouldn't matter. I rotated the crankshaft 2 revolutions and everytime, the yellow dot markings would line up, but the timing belt markings were always somewhere else. I tried this multiple times, each time resetting the timing belt, installing the tensioner then rotating the crankshaft. After 3 trials, I assumed it was suppose to be like this so I just started assembling everything. Could I have actually advanced the L cam timing by a tooth? This car I bought and there were 2 owners before me. Since there were no white marks, I'm thinking the pullies might have been replaced for some reason by one of the previous owners. But it doesn't make sense that the cel light would light up when the car is traveling slow though.

Hey, I had completed a major repair on my 91 ls400 about a month ago. The repair included a timing belt change, water pump change, fuel filter, replacing the rotors and caps along with cleaning the throttle body. All this I did myself. The CEL lights up rarely. I have reset the ECU to capture the codes that apply to the problem. I have noticed the light only goes on when the car is slow (stop/go traffic, sitting at a light, starting the car) and most often when the engine temp is in the cool range. I have driven the car for a month and I get the following codes. 13, 25, 26 What could be the cause of this problem? Once the car is traveling 40mph or more, the light goes away.

The MAF seemes clean, but I was afraid to touch it. I've noticed the problem only occures when the engine is at normal temperature and has been running for a bit. I'll check the airpipe but seeing how oil free the MAF is, I doubt i'll find something. When cleaning the air filter, I did remote the wiring harness. I plugged it back in though. Could some dirt have gotten into the connectors and is creating a bad connection only when the engine is at normal temperature?

Hey, I have an 91 LS400. Yesterday I washed and reoiled the K&N air filter. Being the first time I've cleaned it, I accidentlly oiled it too much. Today I went for a ride and got a fill up of plus at Shell. Immediatly afterwards, I've noticed that the needle was jumping around when the car was completly stopped. It even stalled once. I went home and noticed that some oil was dripping. I rewashed and reoiled the K&N filer this time with light oil. It seemed to behave correctly when I was driving until later, when the exact symptoms started happening. Did I get oil into the air intake system? Or is it bad fuel? If it did get into the air intake system, how do I flush it out? Thanks

Hey, i'm looking for the driver's side weatherstripping or what ever the rubber piece on the door is called which gets crushed when you close the door. I think that maybe the cause of my wind noise. Thanks