kashi125

Check the metal clamp that goes over the battery and holds it in place. I had the exact same problem and it turned out that the clamp was loose and would slide over and touch the positive terminal of the battery creating a short circuit whenever I made a sharp turn.

Hi messerschmidtt, I'd be very interested in finding out how you solved this. I have similar rattle on my 99 ES that just started happening. I had new OEM struts, strut mounts, bump stop and upper and lower spring insulators put in just 3 months ago so it can't be that. Keep us posted!

Expect to pay between $300-500. A lot of stuff has to come off to change the rear valve cover gaskets. If they aren't leaking you can just change the front ones which is pretty easy to do and you can even do it yourself.

The mechanic said the water pump looked OK when he pulled it off, but the gasket around it was deteriorating and he said sooner or later it would have started leaking.

02 ES has an interference engine. If the timing belt breaks the damage could be very costly. Better safe than sorry. My wife's 99 ES had the original timing belt in it until 2009 and 150,000+ miles (we bought it used and the original owner never changed the belt). So yes, they can last a long time but then again you are gambling.

I had a similar issue and fortunately the reason was simple for me. The metal piece that goes over the battery and holds it in place was loose. While driving it would sometimes slide and make contact with the positive terminal (thus causing a short circuit, since the metal piece is connected to the body and hence grounded). When this happened, all electrical systems would shut down, navigation display would flicker etc. This only happened while taking a turn (hence sliding of the metal piece) and then everything came back to normal. Based on my experience, I think something is causing a short circuit in your car.

Ask the mechanic where the leak is coming from. These cars are notorious for leaky valve cover gaskets. If it is a valve cover gasket, it is not as expensive as replacing the rear main seal (~$300 vs. ~$1000+). Also, change your PCV valve and grommet. If your PCV valve is clogged it will make the valve cover gasket situation worse. Sometimes changing this $10 part fixes the leaks. Search here for PCV valve replacement instructions. 5 minute job.

I don't believe it is covered by any kind of warranty. What is the $850 price for? The strut mount is only like $50 or $60 and shouldn't cost more than $150 to in labor to replace both sides. My total cost for replacing front struts + mounts + labor was <$550

I noticed today that my gauge was close to full and range was 311. The best MPG I have gotten on this car is 32 going at highway at 60 MPH for ~300 miles. My average with a mix of city/highway is usually around 22/23. Gauge reads quarter tank left when I have driven 320 miles on the tank. I think your average of 22ish is good.

I don't remember the exact number, but mine is certainly above 300. What does your Avg. MPG reading say?

subydude999--it is probably your starter. To be sure, next time it doesn't start, get someone to move the key in the ignition to START and hold it there while you gently tap on the starter. I had the exact same problem on my 02 ES a couple of weeks ago. I got a remanufactured starter with a lifetime warranty on it. Cost of replacing the starter: $140 + 2 hours of my time. Satisfaction of knowing my car will start every time I turn the key: priceless

Only other info I can add is, if the sensor seems stuck in there (mine was) try spraying some PB Blaster and let it sit for 30 mins or so and then spray again if its still stuck. Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

If a sensor is so out of spec that is causing such a huge difference in MPG, I would expect the check engine light to be on at that point. Some other things to consider first: 1) I believe you observed the reduced MPG over 600 miles? If not and it was just the last tank of gas, maybe you got bad gas. 2) Have you checked the tire pressure? 3) Is it mostly city or highway driving? P.S: If you decide to change the sensors, the OEM ones are not that expensive if you know where to look. Post the part numbers you need here and I can provide sources for cheap OEM sensors.

I have the service manual for a 93 ES and it shows the Bank 1 Sensor 1 as the one between the firewall and the engine. Since both 93 and 99 have the same location, I guess we can safely assume that in your 94 ES the sensor is in the same location.

I believe it is between the firewall and the engine. At least that is where Bank 1 Sensor 1 is on a 99 ES. I couldn't reach it from the hood and paid an independent mechanic $30 or so to change it. He jacked up the car and reached it from underneath.