maniek_LS

Hello Folks,I think I have an answer to the Instrument Cluster Light and fuel gauge problem on older LS400's.If you have the common problem with the instrument lights whereby they don't come on right away when you start the car in the morning when its cold .... then its probably an electrolytic capacitor located at C212 on the small PC board on the back of your instrument cluster.If you also have the common problem whereby your fuel gauge takes a long time to read the fuel level in your tank after starting your car in the morning and/or the reading is much lower than the true amount of gas in your tank, then its probably two electrolytic caps on the "Big" PC board on the back of your intrument cluster. One of the caps is located at C142 on the big board... and the other is located at .. C147 . The interesting thing is that these caps are all the same style.

Hi Folks !!

I' d like to thank you very much for that topic. Today I spend no longer than two hours (inc. combination meter removal) and my fuel gauge and black panel start working ! :D I replaced three capacitors with new ones (with higher voltage) and I'm and my LS happy now :-)

It is very easy to do - only difficult was to remove one capacitor close to pins.

Regards,

Mariusz /Maniek (Poland)

Maniek, the antenna movement is normal. My 95 does this as well.

It sounds to me that your radio is just fine.

Thanks for explanation, I thought that something is bad .. :)

Hi,

In my LS ('92 Euro) I observed strange thing. When I turn radio ON (or set TA during CD play) antenna mast is moving to FULL length and in the same moment is going down about 15-25cm. When I set FM to e.g. 94 MHz antenna mast is going up about 5-10cm but NEVER to full size. Do you have the same ? In camry antenna mast went to full size and not changed its long all time. This is why I surprised.

Second:

My radio is not receiving stations very well (I borrow ford from my friend and he's radio is playing stations in region (100km from big city where is local station) where my lexus radio not catches a signal). For clearance - I unplugged wire from radio and antenna and checked it for shorts, open circuits - cable is fine (75 Ohm). I also did one - unplugged wire from antenna side and radio is playing the same like wire is connected ! Can be something wrong in radio connector ? Any ideas ?

Thank you

I have play in each rear wheel ('91 LS, 176k), the only thing I have done to the rear suspension is the

bushing on #9, everything is original. The play is coming from the "Rear control Arm".....

I can order the arm but the play is on the bushing pressed into the "Knuckle", #2. Is there a source/part # for that bushing ? Looks like the same procedure I did on the "Strut Rod/# 9 last year.

thanks,

Bob

Bob,

As I know there is only part #2 and here is bushing - you can look for after market (uorginal) bushing which fit.

I hope you can find mechanic who know garage who will recuperate this part.

Mariusz

My wifes car left coolant on the driveway and the garage last night. It is coming from the area under the throttle body. It is hard to see but a steady stream is pouring from the area.

What would be the logical diagnosis? suggestions?

thanks in advance.

Go through turtorial http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html and you will see one short pipe It is your problem..

I've had a 1998 LS400 for 4 years. It has been a great car, BUT 2 days ago, I was driving along a highway and the car lost power. The check VSC light came on, and the car would not accelerate any longer. I coasted to the side of the road, turned off the car, waited a minute, and then turned on the car again. It worked fine.

However, the car did this FOUR times in one hour. The last time that it did this, the "XXX miles since last refuel" indicator reset itself to zero.

Do I need to get rid of this car? It hasn't had problems since, but I don't want to go through loss of power again.

Check EFI Relay - I had similar problem in LS400 (1992) and relay sometimes not operated then my car was difficult to start/accelerate. Second - check JB2 (under hood) I saw 2 LSes with water inside connectors plate (must be removed from car and separated)..

SK - Good idea. Using that method, I should be able to narrow down which circuits might have a short, if it's a short at all.

Mehullica - Good catch as well - someone recommended that to me offline. I get a +12.5V when I test using where the neg and pos leads are currently hooked up - and -12.5V when I reverse it.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate the quick feedback.

Econ,

I'll sugst you to open fuse box (near to 120A fuse) - as I remember called JB2 and unmoun board with fuses and relays and then check if there is no WATER inside. I had problems with my radio, A/C, trunk open by button and I went car to mechanic/electrician who opened this board (it is riveted and must be re-riveted) He found that all connectors were in water and made short circuits. After dry and applying special grese all works perfect !

Second check isolation on connectors for 120A fuse - there is large tube which can move up-down, maybe it was moved and un-isolated connectors (shorts to ground) ?

Regards,

Mariusz

Maniek-

Thank you

I failed to take pictures at the time. The same problems are common to vehicles years 1989-1994:

Hope this helps!

Yes,

thanks. But I have one more question to you. How did you brainstormed to open ECU ? You go via whole check service matrix ? Or what ? I'm very impressed !

Cracked open the ECM today and found a leaking capacitor (C108 if I remember correctly). Removed the old one, cleaned the residue from the leak off some traces, and soldered in a replacement from Radio Shack. The acceleration is back!

Did you made a photo of open ECM and bad capacitor here ? Can you post it please ? How did you find this damaged part ?

One more thing, as i was scanning after EGR job. I noticed the "od/off" light blinking.(traction off was not blinking this time btw). anyway,it was blinking in a pattern,so i thought i'd count that too. It blinked 6 times,paused for 1 sec. then 8 times. paused for 3 secs. and then over again(6 then 8). Which means ''68'' ?? anyone know whats up with that??? Again this is not the cel i'm reffering to . it's the ''od off''.

Thnx in advance..

Al.

Repair manual says:

Code No. = 68

Diag. Code Detection Condition = The kick–down switch is turned on before the accelerator pedal starts pushing in the switch.

Trouble area =

1. Kick–down switch (Remains ON)

2. Harness or connector between kick–down switch and ECU.

3. Harness or connector between kick–down switch and body ground.

4. ECU

If diagnostic code “68” is output all the time by the O/D OFF indicator light when the kick-down

switch is switched on and off repeatedly, it is likely that there is an open circuit in the kick-down

switch circuit.

Mariusz

I looked at lexls for the tps adj. by hand, with trial and error. But it dosen't make sense to me. The tps adj. seems to be for an opened/closed setting using an ohm meter. Regardless as to what the idle speed is.

Lastly, Any thoughts on this problem other than the tps?

I did TPS adjustment 2 weeks ago. Here is my page with step by step 'How to'

http://www.ls400.waw.pl/SetTPSonthecar/index.html

If you have any questions - mail me.

Regards,

Mariusz

I vote for the rotors. You can feel the fronts through the steering wheel.

hello guys,

have just fixed the front rotors (re-grinded them) and the fronts are not kicking any more, but to my surprise the whole vibration is now coming from the rears (the rear end is almost jumping and pulsating when braking hard -scarrryyy!!!), so ordered new rotors and pads for tomorrow -

i will let you know how it went...

Andre,

I feel after my three very fast routes to Katowice and back (300km in one way - aprox speed 130kmph) my front rotors also must be re-drinded. Where did you do this in Warsaw ? It was proffesionally done ?

How much you paid for new rear rotors and pads (ASO ? )

Mariusz

Craig!,

paper clip is enough to check OBD1 codes. Just connect two points TE1 and E1 after you put key to ON position (don't crank engine !) In many mails on this forum you will find detailed procedure HOW TO. If you will encounter any problems - send me PM - I can share my photos from this operation. I think prefered diagnostic connector is under hood - it is easy to access.

SECOND - important also to me...

Guys ! When I read your mails I feel like reading STORY about my LS :-( (1992, EU). My LS do the same - IS SLOOOOOW - from full stop to 60mph needs about 12 seconds !!. On the highway accelerates better (e.g. from 70 to 110MPH), but car not gives me satisfaction from driving. I feel like my LS will have trailer with 2 tons on the back when I depress gas pedal.

I have NO any error codes in ECU (checked several times). Replaced time belt (it is set properly for 100%), new sparks, new wires, new filters (all parts from dealer), checked compression (strong and constant on all cylinders) . In Poland I can't find no ONE dealer/garage with big experience in Lexus and no one can diagnose why my car is slow like snail.

I made Oxygen sensor tool to check them - 10 LEDs which are moving in 'rhythm' of reach/lean and observed strange thing. On idle for 6 seconds on O2 sensors is LEAN mixture, then O2 start working normally (Lean/Rich/Lean/Rich for 6 cycles) and then LEAN for next 6 seconds. I performed check of O2 sensor according to service procedure 2128_codes_diagnostic_procedure (with shorted terminals TE1 and E1) and it seams O2 sensors are OK.

Last thing to check is EGR, but I don't know how to check this system ? I read several times EFI part of LS manual and when I look under hood of my LS parts are located differently (e.g I can't find EGR temp.. sensor in place where manual is showing it -engine from European LS is different than in US ?). Can I simply DISABLE EGR ? Just for check ..

Additionally - I borrowed MAF sensor from friend LS (which is fast like a thunderbolt :-) ). I drove car with his MAF (also reset of ECU) for two days - my LS still WAS SLOW...

What do you think - can any temperature sensor (water, oil) cause poor performance of LS ?

It doesn't matter if car is just started (cold) or is hot (after 200km way) - NO ACCELERATION from start at all :( Especially there is a problem to go to redline on the first gear (take a lot of time). Tranny was/and is serviced - changed oil, filter.

I love this car, but I start thinking to sell it - I don't see a change to repair it and be happy own LS..

Maybe you - LOC guys - can help me ?

(Here SLOW you can see how slow car accelerates from 75 - 130MPH - as you see on the beginning - kick down but speed SLOWLY increases from 75MPH to 85MPH, next point on gear 3 when redline is meet after long time..

Hi Guys!! :)

If you know - please tell me. And is the EGR Valve expensive?!

Craig!! :)

EGR Valce in LS400 is here (right side of the engine if you facing your car)

Hello Mariusz,

try this phone no. in Warsaw: 022 783 22 95 -I get parts from US coming on LOT flights (3-4 days waiting time)

-good luck and let me know how you went

Regs Andre

Andre, I can't send PM to you - please contact me directly 0606103211, mmilobedzki(at)gazeta.pl.

Guys,

I bought all parts I needed before - thank you...

Guys,

is it true that lexus (like camry) was featured in variable intake manifold capacity ? In camry there is something like extra capacity in intake manifold - opened by special valve.

I'm asking because my LS is hard to accelerate from full stop. When I fully depress accelerator for 1 -1.5 sec. nothing happens (engine reaches RPM but I feel no power) and after that time (2sec) car starts fast. I checked everything - no error codes, all sensors, sparks and all components, fuel and have really no idea what can be wrong ? If I turn TRC off my car can not start with tires cheep (friend's LS doing it with no problem)

I remember that camry have variable capacity of intake manifold and if valve is damaged - car had no power - maybe in LS is the same ??

Thank you a lot

Maniek, What place did you go to to get your headlamps cleared??

I'm from Poland Warsaw :-) One head lamp I cleared by myself second one cleared xenon service (took 10USD for clearing) I think you need to search for firm who make polishing of glass.

Guys,

I have possiblity to buy in US some parts to my LS (my colleague is in Chicago now). Today I tried to find THROTTLE CABLE but no success - can you help me please in this ?

Can be any on-line shop or normal auto part store.

Thanks

Did I get oil into the air intake system? Or is it bad fuel?

1. check if MAF sensor is clear

2. check air pipe from MAF to throttle - if it clear don't search more - add new gasoline with better octane value

3. if you find oil in the air pipe check/clear ICV valve (located at front of engine) this part is responsible for idle.

Great thanks a lot, Two things, What temp. Should I turn the oven to and what compound and polisher should I use??

I used oven set to 160-170st C (don't know how many in F) when I opened lamps in camry . In the past I polished one lamp in my camry to install bi-xenon lens :D - it took lot of time and was not exactly transparent :-( Second lamp I send to service and pay about 20USD to polish - work was done excellent. In my country I found offer from car service to make clear lamps - it is very cheap. Try search ebay ?

Hi,

My friend is in Chicago for few days. I asked him to buy clear bumper and parking lights (like those: http://tiny.pl/gfsm). He has no permanent address than ebay and other on-line shops can't be used. Do you know cheap shop in Chicago where those parts can be bought ? I need address of it.

I'm also looking for used 3rd Brake Light & Woofer Cover - super if in black color. Maybe someone from Chicago LS guys have access to those parts and can help me please ??

My LS is 1992 (www.ls400.waw.pl)

Thanks a lot..

Must need a machine to do a flush job. Dealer charges $70 for a flush job, last time I check with them

:-)

I did this last Tuesday. Machine was me and my friend :D I unplugged one pipe from radiator and colleague started engine for 8 to 10 seconds I catch 1 liter of old dirty ATF fluid, engine was stopped, new AFT (1 liter was added to tranny (via probe pipe - use funnel + 20cm pipe). This cycle was replaced 8 times (until fluid was cleared). After that I unscrewed tranny cover, replaced A/T filter to new and completed AFT fluid level. Then carefully went to road for 5-8km and then checked fluid level. Now my AFT is so cleared - I had problems to find what is a level of ATF on the probe :-)

Tranny run excellent.

BTW. I'm always checking fluid level 2 times per month..

Have you checked fluid level ? Maybe in newes (comparing to my LS) LSes there is a info about brake fluid level ? Then check if all your bulbs for stop lights are fine..

Hi Maniek

I am curious about your car's "front dimmer lights". Are these the fog lights? Low beams?

Thanks

You right ! I'm mentioned about Low beams and called them as tail lights :( For clearance I have a problem with Low beam lights but wiring diagram for my car is completely different from US/Canada/UK cars..

On Monday I'll try to look for any wiring problems - I think it could be integration relay issue ..

Thank you