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Posts posted by 1990LS400

  1. 1 hour ago, tobusy4 said:

    boat weights in fully rigged at 5200lbs adding 1000lbs for the trailer. 2015 F150 with 2.7 ecoboost and is rated for 8500lbs which will more than cover it. I just did not want a pickup sitting around my house or to pay extra insurance on a vehicle..  such is life...

    Why not replace your 2013 RX350 with an SUV that can tow your boat safely with no drama and also carry at least as many passengers as your RX?  It would probably be less expensive than owning an extra vehicle.   If you don't want to buy new, I'm sure you can find something nice on the used market that would work for you.  For example, the Carmax down the road from me here in Kansas has Chevy Suburbans from 2013 to 2019 priced between $25K and $37K.

    The purchase price of a boat is only the beginning.  I was stunned at all associated costs.  I swore I'd never own another boat unless I could walk out my back door and access it from my own property.  Friends bought a house at the T-intersection of a canal in southwest Florida in around 2005.  It included a dock/slip for a boat.  It was one of the first houses in a new development - fairly modest 3 bedroom, open plan but still very nice.  I was stunned at the price - around $400K back then which I thought was very low for what they got.  Their house was perfectly centered at the "top" of the T-intersection which meant that looking out from their back patio was stunning - water straight out to the gulf.   That sounds awful good when stuck here in Kansas!

  2. 1 minute ago, tobusy4 said:

    Wondering if a tuner shop can beef up and make a Rx350 handle that type of cargo.?.  I think for the money and older f150 is the best option


    A unit body vehicle like the RX cannot be "beefed up" to handle that kind of load.   I suppose you could ask around but I strongly doubt that anybody in their right mind would assume the liability of doing that type of job.   You've just plain got the wrong vehicle for towing that kind of boat.

    Some versions of the F-150 wouldn't tow that boat either.  The marina service I used to recover our sailboat used a much larger 4WD pickup truck - something on the order of an F-350 - but they were sometimes launching and recovering boats that weighed well over 10,000 pounds.  

    You need something on the order of a Ford Expedition, Toyota Land Cruiser, or Chevy Suburban to tow a boat of the size you are talking about.

    If you haven't bought that boat and don't want to rent a slip or get a different vehicle, then maybe don't buy that boat.  Maybe you could look for a much smaller boat but I realize that boats of the size you are talking about are pretty typical in Florida.

    I've owned a 2014 Toyota Sienna Limited since new.  It is also unit body, has the same drive train and brakes as your 2013 RX350 and is also rated to tow 3,500 pounds.  It's essentially a larger, heavier version of the RX350.    It has a 2" inch receiver hitch rated to tow 5,000 pounds as long as an additional weight distribution device is used.  I wouldn't dream of towing more than the rated 3,500 pounds with my Sienna.  6,000 or 7,000 pounds would be absolutely scary.

  3. 4 minutes ago, tobusy4 said:

    I think the big issue is weather a Front wheel drive 270hp RX350 can pull 6500lbs up a ramp and out of the water.  I think that maybe asking for trouble.

    Would gladly spend for trailer brakes if the rx could pull it. But was comparing the curb weight of the rx350 and a 2015 F-150 with a 2.7 eco boost. The weights are actually very similar but the f-150 can tow well over 6500lbs all day long. Just dont know why they rated the RX so low. seems like it could do allot more.

    The Ford F-150 is a "body on frame" design and engineered from the start for heavy towing.  The RX350 is a unit-body vehicle without a separate frame and is designed for light duty towing at best.  Trailers over around 1,500 pounds should have their own brakes - electric or surge.   Trailers over 3,000 pounds REALLY need their own brakes.  Trailers for boats of the size you are talking about usually have surge brakes since electric brakes aren't happy being submerged.

    Boat ramps can be scary slippery with moss in the Midwest but maybe that's less of a problem in Florida.  I once had a scary experience pulling a 3,500 pound sailboat/trailer out of the water with a mid-size RWD sedan - rear wheels spilling and not getting traction on the slick steep ramp.  From then on I had the boat pulled out of the water by a marina service that used a large 4WD pickup truck.  I gave up on launching/recovering the boat every time I wanted to use it and rented a slip for it and later moored it on a buoy and rowed out to it in a dingy. 

    At most, you might be able to pull 5,000 pounds using a weight distribution hitch with your RX - something like a travel trailer but not a boat if you are going to launch and recover it yourself.  You would need a receiver hitch rated for 5,000 pounds and a weight distribution setup on top of that.


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  4. I doubt that you would get ticketed anywhere in the U.S. for not having rear side marker lights and certainly not in the Florida keys "Conch Republic".  Is anything illegal down there?  🙄

    Does your replacement lamp unit have a manufacturer name and/or part number on it or does the box it came in have it?  It would be interesting to see what it really is.

    Here's an image I grabbed from Amazon that shows the back of the type of lamp module you needed.  It has a socket for a 5W side marker bulb.  If the lamp unit you bought instead has only a socket for a larger 21W rear fog lamp bulb then you've got the wrong product.  

    Key West is sounding pretty good today.  It's 1 degree Fahrenheit here in Kansas which is the forecasted high for the day and I see that it is 81 degrees in Key West.  I'd rather be sitting at an outside table on Duval street drinking a beer right now.


    2009 RX rear side marker for North America.jpg

  5. OK, another possibility that I hesitated to bring up is that a rear fog lamp unit may be involved.  In most areas outside North America, the lamp units in the rear bumper are fog lamps instead of side marker lamps.  These rear fog lamp units use 21W bulbs instead of the 5W bulbs used in the side marker units.  The attached diagram and parts list shows the rear fog lamps for the European market RX.

    There are a number of possible scenarios including ... 

    1) A previous owner removed the rear side marker units, installed the rear fog light units, and did the necessary rewiring to support them.  That's exactly what I would have done since I've often installed OEM or aftermarket rear fog lamps on our vehicles.  I consider rear fog lamps infinitely more important than rear side marker lamps.

    2) The OP lives in Florida but he inadvertently purchased a European, Australian, Japan, etc. market rear fog lamp as a replacement part.  These rear fog lamps have been available from a variety of sources including on eBay.

    3) The OP doesn't really live in Florida or North America regardless of what his profile says, owns an RX version that originally came with rear fog lamps, and inadvertently bought a rear side marker lamp as a replacement.

    So ... maybe the OP will come back to this thread and provide more information.


    2009 RX rear fog light - European market.jpg

  6. 23 hours ago, A-A-ron said:

    So how would I get to where I am asked for a code on a 05’ es330 with a lexus premium sound system with navigation?


    My understanding is that security codes were not used on Toyota/Lexus vehicles sold in North America after the early/mid 1990's.  

    For example, my 1990 LS400 radio had an option for entering a security code but my 2000 LS400 did not.  The security code feature was documented in the owners manual for the 1990.

  7. 3 hours ago, Zeus01 said:

    Yup, we certainly need that rear wiper here, especially in the winter months: snow, ice, road salt, etc.

    Too late to reinstall the previous wiper arm, it's now landfill. It did however appear to be the exact same design as the one I replaced it with, complete with spring and spring tension.

    On that note, maybe the one I tossed was not the original either(?) Or maybe it was the original, but the spring was no longer strong enough to provide full contact - and it's replacement came with a weaker spring right out of the box? (that one was an Amazon purchase btw).

    My opinion is that the blade is more important than the arm.  Your rubber wiper blade insert should have a slot on each side for a metal rib.  The metal ribs that fit into the slots are curved.  It's important that the curvature of the metal ribs matches the curvature of the window when inserting the metal ribs into the slots in the rubber insert.  If the curvature of the metal ribs is reversed, the wiper blade won't contact the glass well through its sweep. 

    If you purchased an aftermarket wiper blade that doesn't use the two reusable curved metal ribs, then that's likely the problem ... or if the aftermarket blade doesn't have the additional inward spring arms that allow the blade to flex and adapt to the curvature of the glass.  Your rear wiper blade should like like the one in the attached image.



    2008 Lexus RX rear wiper blade.jpg

  8. You might try reinstalling your original wiper arm and blade if you still have them and replace the rubber blade insert with a new OEM one.  It's rare for a wiper arm to wear out.  We've kept a number vehicles for from 10 to 14 years and have never needed to replace a front or rear wiper arm.

    I don't know what kind of aftermarket blade you bought but some don't have the little spring arms that the OEM blades have that allow them to conform better to curved glass.  I tried aftermarket wiper blades on the 2000 LS400 I drove for many years and they didn't begin to conform to its curved glass windshield.  I immediately went back to OEM.

    You may need your rear wiper more than those of us who live further south.



  9. Did you replace the entire wiper blade or just the rubber insert?  If you replaced either, did you use OEM parts?  Unfortunately, the effectiveness of rear wipers on windows with curvature is sometimes marginal.  The rear wiper on our Prius v wagon's flatter rear window works better than the rear wiper on our Sienna van's window that has more curvature.  Something else you could try is to thoroughly clean the rear window glass and wiper blade insert with denatured alcohol to remove road film and general crud.  I do that several times a year on our vehicles with rear wipers.  It's surprising how much crud builds up even when the glass looks clean.  Applying water repellent (I use Rain-X) after cleaning the rear windows with alcohol seems to help the wipers function better.  

  10. The most common cause of this problem is failure of the stop light switch on the brake pedal arm.  Are your brake lights lighting up when you press the brake pedal?

    OEM brake light switches sell for gen 1 LS400 sell for around $75 but I see aftermarket ones online for far less.  Autozone has several brands of them for as little as $27.


  11. I'm also seeing the left and right turn signal wires only at the driver side junction block and combination meter in your electrical diagram - surprising.  I see the right sign turn signal wire color (G-Y) referenced at the bottom of the diagram for the passenger side junction block but not on the diagram itself which is confusing.  Looking at electrical diagrams on a small laptop PC screen is NOT my favorite activity!

    It's possible that the LS430 is different than other recent vehicles from Toyota in this respect.  Or maybe only the UK/European version of the wiring diagram shows the turn signal wires in the kick panels for the fender mounted turn signals that are standard there.

    There's nothing wrong with picking up the power for the turn signals wherever you can find them.  When I installed fender mounted turn signals on my first LS 30 years ago, I went the easiest route and ran the wires  inside the front fenders, over the fender liners and connected them to the wires near the connectors for the front turn signals - not the best way but it worked fine.

    If you run the wires from the left side through the dashboard, be careful not to block anything that moves or has to be accessed.  When I ran wires for a phone system in the 2000 LS400 I used to have, I inadvertently ran it in front of the HVAC filter behind the glove box - not a huge problem but I didn't leave enough slack in the wires and had to push them out of the way each time I changed the filter.

  12. There are likely turn signal wires on connectors to the junction blocks near the kick panels in both the driver and passenger sides as there have been on most vehicles made by Toyota in the past few decades.  When I added mirror covers with turn signals to our 2012 Prius v, I used an inexpensive unpowered 12V test light to locate the turn signal wires in its similar junction block connectors near the driver and passenger side kick panels.

    But if you want to use the power source you already found, you should be able to run a wire above the lower trim panel on the driver side, behind the audio/nav system head unit, and behind the glovebox.  It would be more work and won't be pretty but no one is going to see it after you do it.

  13. 1 hour ago, steveinseattle said:

    Has anyone explored  I own a 2016 RX350.   There are two class III receivers listed for ~$150.00.   A Draw-Tite and a Curt.   Both bolt to the frame.  They claim installation is easy.   Possible heat shield adjustment.  Has anyone had experience with these products? 


    There are a LOT of reviews for the gen 4 RX Curt and Draw-Tite hitches on the etrailer website.  People seem pleased with them.

    I see that the installation difficulty rating for both is "3 out of 10" which is about the easiest rating that etrailer gives for installing receiver hitches.  I've bought a lot of stuff from etrailer including the receiver hitches on our current vehicles, wiring harnesses, bike racks, etc.

    The appearance of the Curt hitches I've bought has held up a little better than the only Draw-Tite hitch I've bought but that may have been a coincidence.  There are a lot more reviews for the Curt hitch than the Draw-Tite hitch on the etrailer website.  There are installation videos for both products on the etrailer website.  

    If you are going to install a trailer light wiring harness, what you need depends on whether or not your RX has the optional towing prep package.  And of course the towing capability without the optional towing prep package is sharply reduced.  The towing prep package for the 2016 RX350 included the following:  Heavy-duty radiator and cooling fan, engine and transmission oil coolers.

    If you are don't know if your RX has the towing prep package, you can determine that by either looking for the engine and transmission oil coolers in the engine compartment (they are pretty easy to see if you know what they look like) or you can view the build specifications for your RX at


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  14. On 12/28/2020 at 3:57 AM, M.Yasir said:

    However on the side note, can you please help me in setting the TPMS thing, there is a warning light popping up always

    I am aware that the TPMS sensors are inside the rubber tyres but how to configure it thats a big question, i am aware that there is a reset button but unfortunately that is not working for

    The battery in one or more of your TPMS sensors may have failed.  An internet search indicates that the batteries last between 5 and 10 years.  My understanding is that the batteries cannot be replaced and that it is necessary to purchase new sensors and reprogram the vehicle ECU with the ID codes.

  15. On 12/20/2020 at 11:40 AM, Dbrown672 said:

    Hello everyone,

    I recently purchased a 2009 RX350 Pebble Beach Edition.  It is in very good condition other than this buzzing noise that comes and goes.  It is driving me nuts!  I am wondering if anyone has solved this.  The noise comes and goes and sounds like it may be somewhere behind the dash, or in the center console.  I have checked for loose items etc.  

    Thank you!

    I've used a mechanics stethoscope several times to track down interior noises.  They are fairly cheap ... I see one online for about $12.  

    Sometimes I've had someone else drive while I probed around the interior with my stethoscope.  The sources of the noises have usually been something rattling around in the center console, glove compartment or door pocket.   The source of a particularly nasty buzz turned out to be a loose setting in a ring on my right hand which was pretty funny - the buzz occurred only when my right hand was on the steering wheel.

    Another common source of buzzes are the little servo motors opening and closing flaps in the HVAC system to regulate the interior temperature.  You can eliminate that possibility by turning your HVAC off and seeing of the buzzing stop.  There's not much one can do to stop the buzzing from that since it's considered normal unless it is really loud.


  16. The hydraulic hood support struts are worn out.  A sign of wear is when they keep the hood up in warm weather but not in colder weather.  

    Here are the OEM part numbers from

    SUPPORT ASSY, HOOD, RH - 53440-0E020    
    SUPPORT ASSY, HOOD, LH - 53450-0E010  

    Googling the part numbers should find both OEM and aftermarket replacements.  They are fairly easy to replace.  I've replaced several sets

  17. On 12/18/2020 at 4:08 PM, Mac 1990 said:

    Does this apply to the 1990 LS 400 as Well? 

    It has been 17 years since I sold my 1990 LS400 so my memory could be hazy.  Can you essentially deactivate the tilt/telescope by moving the steering wheel to your preferred driving position and then setting the Auto button on the left side of the steering column to its "off" position?  The "off" position for this button is when it is extended.

    The 1990 LS400 owners manual shows fuse #27 as being for the steering wheel and seat belt anchor but pulling it will also deactivate the power windows and sunroof.   I don't know if the tilt/telescope can be deactivate through the diagnostic port.  The 1990 LS400 didn't have an OBD2 port like the LS430 did.  A lot of customizable features were added to the LS430 in 2001.  The 2000 LS400 I owned was assembled several months after the 2001 LS430 went on sale in some countries but it didn't have nearly as many customizable features through the ODB2 port as the LS430.

  18. It is usually necessary to pull audio system head units to access their antenna connections.  If you are going to the trouble of pulling the head unit, consider installing a device that allows you to stream audio from your phone through an aux-in cord or wirelessly through Bluetooth which should provide far better sound quality than an FM modulator.  VAIS Tech has been selling these interfaces probably longer than anyone else.  Stores like Best Buy might have them too or just do an internet search.  I see some on Amazon.  Here is a link to the VAIS website:

    Here is a link to instructions on how to remove the head unit from a company that makes phone brackets:

    It is usually pretty easy to pull a head unit if you have right tools and maybe some experience.  Installing the type of interface I mentioned above would probably take no more than 30 minutes.  



  19. 18 hours ago, Jeff Nerenberg said:

    Agree- very frustrated as I love to cycle- have Gr8 rack but no options for a hitch?? 
    uhaul says they’ll build but go to Arizona for 3 days... 

    lexus not helpful Re UX hitches 

    pls let me know what if you have any options 




    Summarizing the three methods for carrying bikes that have been mentioned in this thread:  

    1. Use a general purpose bike rack that attaches to the trunk/hatch door with straps.

    2. Buy the UX cross bars and attachments for carrying bikes on the roof.

    3. Have a custom receiver hitch fabricated and use a hitch mount bike rack.

    I can think of a forth option but it would likely be the most expensive one.  Buy the European market hitch for the UX and the European market bike rack that can be mounted on it.  I bought European market parts from a Lexus dealer in London in the early 1990's by phone before the Internet was viable.  The London Lexus dealer appeared to have bypassed U.S. customs and I did not have to pay import duties.  Regardless, that Lexus dealership no longer exists and has been replaced by a BMW dealership at the same address.  Finding a U.K. or European Lexus dealer that ships to the U.S. might be difficult. 

    If you really want to carry your bicycles on your UX, don't need a trailer hitch for anything else, and have the physical ability to lift your bicycles up to a roof rack, then why not carry them on a roof rack?  As much as I dislike carrying bikes on roofs, I did it for 11 years on a mid-size Mercedes sedan using a La Prealpina roof rack that had attachments for both bikes and snow skis.  The wind noise from the rack and bikes was unpleasant and worried that I might forget that the bikes were up there but that was the price of transporting our bikes. 

    Have you investigated whether or not there are hitch fabricators near where you live?  There's one within 10 miles of my home here in Kansas.  At least I think they still fabricate hitches since they did 20 to 30 years ago.  That business was started in the 1930's and is still run by the same family.       

  20. On 12/2/2020 at 2:56 PM, lawrence lennard said:

    Disconnected my battery for the summer on my 2002 Lexus 430 and when I reconnected the steering tilt was in the up position and I haven't gotten any response out of it - the telescopeing part works fine.   Any suggestions appreciated.   There was talk of reprogramming - don't know how

    A suggestion is to read the previous posts in this thread and take action based on what others have found.

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