takeaflyingleap

I have a 91 ES250 with 125,000 mi, and I have absolutely no power. I have checked all of the obvious culprits, timing, fuel pressure, flow, compression and computer codes. All check out. This is how bad it is, yesterday I got spanked by a beat up Nissan Sentra. My driveway is gravel and I can't even get the tires to spin from a stand still. I just replaced the transmission, it was a used one but I checked it out and it looked great. It was from a Wrecked Camry with 73,000 mi on the odometer. Here's one of the other problems, if I move the gear selector into 2 nothing happens. If I pull it into 1 it will shift into second gear. I checked the shift cable and there are no problems. The transmission shifts seamlessly, it goes through every gear. I had the same problem with the orignal transmission, but I thought that it was because the transmission was going bad. New trans same problem. I do have a theory although it may be flawed as I have no idea how the system works. I was reading the FSM for the transmission and it explains a system that retards the timing when the transmission shifts to make the shifts smoother. Is there a possibility that this system may be malfunctioning? I'm just looking for suggestions on what to look at next. I'm at a loss. Oh yea I forgot to mention that my fuel mileage is about 16 mpg on the highway. Please help before I have to shoot it. :cries: Thanks, Neil

Ok I did a little research and decided that I want to do an air to water intercooler. They look like they give the best inlet temperature drop. I am however, looking for suggestions on types of blow off valves and settings. Inlet pipe diameter suggestions and any other suggestions that you can think of. I am convinced that I can make an effective air to water intercooler with a little more research. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Neil

Sounds like limp mode to me too. I have had an O2 sensor give out on me in less than 20k mi. I have even had brand new ones that were bad from the factory. Just because there new doesnt mean anything. I would also check to see if the brakes are binding. If it's none of those start from the bottom up. Air filter, plugs, fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel leak... you get the idea. Neil

I have a 91 ES250 I am having to replace the transmission. I was wondering if there was any performance modifications that I could do while I have the transmission out of the vehicle. I used to drag race in the NHRA Pro Stock class. I raced a 74' Dodge Dart with a Tri-Power 340. It ran a low 12 second 1/4 mile. The reason that I am telling you this is to ask a question. There were modifications that I made to the TorqueFlite 727 transmission that entailed drilling a few small holes in the valve body plates to increase the line pressure and flow. You also stretched a couple of springs, anyway I just wanted to see if there was any modifications that I could do. Thanks, Neil

Is there any benefit to polishing the internals of the compressor side of the turbo? The casting looks kind of rough. I'm going to post some pictures soon (I have to take them first). Which is better, an air to air or air to water intercooler? I have the aluminum, some heater cores and the welding skills to make an air to water intercooler. I even have an electric water pump from my drag racing days for a stand alone intercooling system. I may be over complicating things here (I have a tendency to do that) What I am thinking about doing is relocating the battery to the trunk and mounting the air to water intercooler in place of the battery. Mounting the turbo over the transmission and using the cross over pipe for the turbo supply. I am also thinking of running an engine oil cooler and was wondering if I should plumb that in line before the turbo. I am sure that I will need you to hold my hand through the set up for the air/fuel and also a glossary for the acronyms, like FPR. Correct me if I am wrong, but I heard that you can run an external fuel system that is activated with the turbo. Something with it's own fuel pump and separate injectors that activate when the turbo spools. That also may be overkill. I'm going to start drawing the plans and parts list next week. I'll send it to you if you wouldn't mind looking it over and critiquing it. Also let me know what you think of my ideas so far so I can incorporate them into my plans. Thanks, Neil

definitely a budget set up. eventually I will go with something a little more substantial. for now I just need a little more power. I have already ported and polished the heads and intake, so I am hoping that this will give me what I'm looking for. Does the O2 sensor go before the turbo or after the turbo? I will have about a million more questions, so I'll make a list and fire away right before I get ready to install this thing. Thanks, Neil

So I could use that as a single turbo? It looked like a 2 1/2" intake and a 2" output. That's why I said that It looked quite small. The engine and turbo looked fresh, that's what got me excited. The body However, was totaled (rolled). I think that it is a replacement turbo. I'm not looking to make insane amounts of power... Yet. After I get the turbo I will pick your brain for the adjustments required. Today I'm adding an external transmission cooler and filter. More power = more heat. I'll pick up the turbo tomorrow ( I hid it in a Geo Metro just in case it was a good find ) I'll probably purchase an intercooler kit from eBay. Thanks for the info. Neil

I have decided to add a turbo. I was at the junk yard yesterday and found an 89 300Z turbo. The turbo is in excellent shape. My question is, does any one know if the 89 Z was a twin turbo. There was only one turbo left on the vehicle and I could not find a mounting location for a second turbo. The turbo that was on the vehicle looked very small and that is why I am asking if it is a twin turbo. I was looking at the Nissan turbo as I have heard that they are a very good design and spool up very fast (and I can get them cheap from the junk yard) Thanks, Neil

Compression is good. Can't remember the numbers off the top of my head. Why do I want to ditch the plugs and wires?

Brand new cap, rotor, Bosch platinum +4 plugs (less than 1k mi) new wires (less than (500 mi). Checked fuel pressure, and injector resistance all check out ok. I also replaced/added: Knock sensor; pcv; cleaned and checked egr valve; ported and polished intake and heads; cold air intake; all new top end gaskets; checked valve clearances. The thing that I don't understand is why it stumbles at exactly 6k rpm. I have had an eratic miss that happend at almost any rpm on another car. but this one happens at only 6k rpm. No miss from 1k to 6k and no miss from 6k to 7k. TIA, Neil

I have a strange little problem. The engine runs great, however it stumbles at 6k rpm. It's a very short stumble. Almost like when a rev limiter kicks in. It only happens at 6k, every time, no matter what. Any ideas? TIA, Neil

Thanks for the link. It all makes sense now (well most of it anyway). I now understand the psia measurements. They still seem a little high for a stock engine. Can you do 12 psig on a stock 2vz-fe? What is the maximum psia before you have to do fuel delivery modifications? Also at what point would you have to go to forged pistons and shot peened rods? Or any other modifications that I may have missed? Thanks, Neil

I was reading that link that you sent me. I hope that I am misunderstanding the manifold pressures. If I am not how can the 2vz-fe handle those pressures in stock configuration. All of my experience with forced induction has been in the form of a B&M 671 blower on a small block Mopar. All you had to do to change boost pressures was change the pulley diameters. I do appreciate you "holding my hand through this" Thanks, Neil

toysrme, I was looking on ebay at all of the turbos. I would like to know how to decipher the specifications. What am I looking for. What about twin turbos? Any other information on choosing the correct turbo(s) would be great. Thanks, Neil

Just looking for options. I like the turbo idea.

The reason I was asking about the differences between the 2.5 and the 3.0 is I was wondering about parts interchangeability. Can parts be interchanged between the two? Can I do a complete 2.5 to 3.0 swap? My other hobby is Jeeps. Right now I am working on a “stroker” motor. Basically you take a 242 ci (4.0L) engine and add an older 252 ci (4.2L) crank and bore the cylinders .60 over and you get a 10:1 CR 4.7L “stroker” motor. This normally aspirated engine creates about 380 bhp. Can anything similar be done with the 2.5? Or can I, would I, be better off swapping in a 3.0. I would still like to turbo charge if I do a 3.0 swap. Power hungry I guess

Toysrme, You are talking some very high bhp's. Is the 2.5 really capable of reaching over 300bhp by simply adding a turbo? I was thinking that if I was going to hit those numbers I would have to rebuild the engine with forged pistons, shotpiened rods ect... I have already ported and polished the intake and heads with better results than I had hoped for. Also will I need higher flow injectors? Oh, another question, what exactly is the difference between the 2.5 and the 3.0? I know what the obvious differences are I was wondering about piston dia. and stroke.

← Flying leap, if you're successful with this could you let me know what you use for parts and other mounting instructions? I have an ES250 also and am hoping to get a little more out of it than it makes now. Thanks. Can I PM you and we'll talk? B) ← PM any time. It may be a little while before I can do this. I am going to get a junk yard transaxle and install it for now. While I have the orignal transaxle out I plan on rebuilding it with some upgrades.

This is how I was thinking about installing the turbo on my car. I was thinking that if I blocked off the exhaust outlet on the rear manifold and weld a Y pipe into the crossover pipe and used that to supply the exhaust to the turbo. Installing a remote oil filter/cooler and taping into the return line for the turbo oil supply. I am still looking into intercooler options and sizes, so I will consider mounting options and supply routing after I decide. What I need to know is exactly how the blow off valve and waste gate works and where the best location for them is. What I believe is that the blow off valve releases excess boost and the waste gate releases excess exhaust gas. What I’m fuzzy on is the waste gate and blow off valve settings.

Love the map idea. My little red balloon is about 70 miles off though. There are not even any roads leading to the area marked. Just in case anyone is interested, I live where highway's 49 and 41 intersect. Neil

I have the XM Roady II. It can be used in the car or in the home. I love the programming. My unit broadcasts over several FM freq. so there is no need for the spaghetti hanging in the front of the radio. As far as theft, like a cell phone, it has an ESN. If it is stolen it is useless.

I am very interested in a turbo setup. I have limited funds at this time however. I had been considering a junk yard turbo. Finding something with a similar displacement, compression, ect... I have the fabrication skills to modify the exhaust and intake to accommodate the turbo. I am just a little fuzzy on the physics. Neil

Toysrme, I like the info. I have only read a few of your posts and I have agreed with all of them. I also own an 87 Jeep Cherokee. It has an Asian Warner 4 speed (made by Toyota). It also has a TV cable or a "kick down cable" I made the adjustments a little over 150,000 mi. ago. it now has over 260,000 mi. now. No problems so far. It also has many other mods, lift, 35" tires ect... All very hard on a transmission. Keep up all the good info. It really helps. (I am currently trying to decipher the turbo thread)

Replacing the starter motor: Aprox. 30min. Replacing the driveplate/ring gear: aprox. 6hrs. Sounds good if that is what is wrong. With the starter motor off you can see inside the transmission bellhousing. The only reason that the driveplate/ring gear would need to be replaced if the teeth are chewed up/ missing, or it is bent. The mechanic (if he is being honest) will have no problem showing you if any of these conditions exist. If he says that he has not pulled the starter yet, take it somewhere else. HTH, Neil