Leadfoot

ummmmmm just do photobucket.com thats the only way I know how to! hahahaha. Oh and just like always my part "didn't come in" today so maybe it will be in tomorrow. I swear to god they do this crap on purpose it *BLEEP*es me the hell off. something always goes wrong at the local dealership it's a joke. I've been out of my LS400 over a week now and i'm kind of on edge......lol

Yes, it is very trying, see my thread about the continuing saga of my gauge needles not working. Hmmmm. Nothing to do but take a deep breath, hold for 10 seconds then exhale.

Although the 1998 - 2000 LS400s look alike, there were subtle changes to the maintenance schedule as the years progressed. You might want to get the maintenance manual for your specific model year.

Absolutely agree, but the 98 & 99 were mechanically the same I believe. Quoting my source (www.lexls.com LS generations) the new bits added in the 99 year were

1999

- The wood shift knob became standard equipment.

- A few engine refinements.

- Steering column was slightly refined.

- The daytime running light system became standard equipment. This is basically the same system the Canadian models had been using for years.

- A blank mode was added for the instrument cluster where no cruise information appears.

- A change was made to the reverse shift function linked to the outer rear view mirrors.

- Top speed = 149 mph; 0-60 = 6.3 seconds; 0-400m = 14.9 seconds.

I haven't had mine up to 149 yet........

I have an intermittent problem with my 93 LS400. The heat works great but occassionaly when I stop at a light or in traffic, cold air blows out the heater. Temp is at Max and it will go away after driving again after a few minutes. Anyone else run into this? Ideas?? Thanks

Sounds like you might have a gas lock in the heater system, its the highest point in the cooling circuit and when you are idling the pump pressure is at its lowest. How is the fluid level in the coolant reservior?

crw1342-b is written on mine. I thought alpine used the same cartridge though but mine is exactly the same but with lexus on it. I am going to add a line in using the cd changer wiring under the seat with relays with my ipod and sat radio instead as cds are a waste of space.

Thanks for the code number SK, its like the secret handshake, it opens a lot more doors to find a replacement.

I agree with your point on old technology, looking forward to how you progress on the audio system "upgrade".

By the way. It is not as simple as paying your $10 and downloading the service manual. You have to go into each section and download each individual PDF file. You also need to create a folder structure and filenaming convention so you will know what the PDF file is because many of them are named WO.pdf or something silly like that.. So far I have over 4 hours invested in this.. I certainly have gotten my $10 dollars worth.

It didn't use to be this way, but they recently upgraded the system for faster access to the specific information that the techs who regularly subscribe need. It sucks for us owners as it means a whole lot more filing work, but its more reliable than buying it off ebay!

Also you can use the time to preview a lot of the systems that are there, which we don't usually understand until they go wrong! My finger was very sore after getting most of the 98 info for my car, however over a 56K modem to NZ you really suffer. Broadband is best.

You can check out for free what they do have in the library, not everything is there. Click on this link;

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/...&_nfpb=true

Even though they say they don't have the maintenance schedules, I found them for the 98 year under the technicians group area.

Still the best $10 I have spent.

Hi folks,

I have run into an issue in which my car (90 LS) would take around 5 seconds to start when the engine is cold like in the mornings. When the engine is warm, the car starts quick. Also it starts quick if I turn the ignition key twice to start like let it crank once then turn the ignition off, then crank it again. My mechanic checked the Fuel Regulator and it was fine. After talking to an electric guy, he suggested the problem is with the Fuel Pump Relay and Circuit Opening Relay both will cost around $100 each from the dealer. Could someone give me an advice?

This problem started showing up after the starter was replaced. I don't know if this could have anything to do with the problem.

Could you provide a little more info on the cars history, mileage, last time plugs and battery were changed etc. If it starts fine when warm then I think that pretty much eliminates the relays as the problem. Are you starting outdoors? 5 seconds doesn't seem to long to me if its really cold.

So I would lean more towards the float being stuck open??

I can't see a float listed in the parts diagram, so I don't think there is one. I am also struggling to find a reason for fuel to be jumping from the pressured fuel delivery system (which is now presumably back in its stock form) and the vacuum EVAP system. How is it physically making the jump? I still think you need to double check the all the lines are going to the right places.

There will be an answer.

Thanks for your reply, but I think I mislabelled my thread, sorry.

I am actually after confirmation that the correct cartridge/magazine/stacker for the 1998 LS400 is the JD-T612

Does anyone here know where I can find the required maintenance schedule (preferable on-line) for our 1999 LS400? Seems the maintenance manual has been misplaced. Our car has 54,000 miles on it.

Thank you.

This is for the 1998 year so should be identical, its from the www.techinfo.toyota.com website, which is a great source of cheap info from the horses mouth.

SCHEDULE.pdf

I would like to find a replacement CD stacker as my dealer was nice enough to loose mine and cannot find a replacement, because they are out of stock. Does anyone know of a source of supply for these things? I believe that the pioneer part number is JD-T612.

Some are available on Ebay and I will buy one from there, but I would really appreciate it if someone could please confirm that it looks like their 98 unit, so that I don't get the wrong one. (My 92 magazine is not compatible)

Thanks very much!

Gilligan

ginger

I would recommend leaving the windows down enough that the barking rottwieler in the back prevents anyone from getting to close. Lots of people pass up parking next to a hungry dog.

I would just leave it but it does sound like it has a exhaust leak coming from there.

$10 says its your notoriously unreliable an utterly inaccessible EGR pipe at the back of the engine block. My 92 has a leaking EGR pipe and sounds like a tractor compared to my 98.

Thought I would end this thread with the cure to my original trans problem.

Thanks very much for posting the conclusion, it is great when someone takes the time to close off their thread properly.

My EGR is badly leaking and I get transmission stubbles often, so that is an excellent clue.

so I used my artistic skill to make a paint creation of the fuel filter. B)

There are NO leaks ANYWHERE near or on the gas tank. It's all coming out of the carbon canister. Aparently it's "full" of raw fuel.

Nice job on the artwork,

I want to understand the stock circuits first, can anyone confirm if the fuel filters have a one way valve. I am fairly sure the 90-97 years have a fuel return line from the fuel rail on the engine right? The EVAP system also has a vacuum line from the tank. If the outlet from the pump and filter are sent up the vac line it will fill up the canister pretty quick. The techs should be able to tell you which line is which and if they are correctly connected.

Surely the quickest way to diagnose is

Disconnect the filter outlet to prove its pumping out OK, if so reconnect and

disconnect the fuel rail inlet to prove its getting to the engine bay, if so reconnect and

check out the function of the VSV, the evap control valve.

A PHD student I knew 10 years ago was developing a rotary engine that runs on hydrogen. That puppy was fun. Can't find any links to it now so he probably blew himself up!

what about the WHOLE project makes it most difficult?

Its the length of the job compared to what you would normally expect. Most starters in other engine layouts are easily accessable, so to have to strip the whole intake system (which are very complicated, but thats why we love them) on these cars just to get to the starter motor, is very frustrating.

Thats why I class it as hell. But if you are doing other work like cleaning the throttle body, check valves, replacing valve cover gaskets etc, and you were not pushed for time I am sure it could be a pleasant experience. You just need patience and time.

Haha aww but it's kind of entertaining to read

Tires, we don't need no stinkin tires!

You owe both of us a beer

Seconded!

Dcfish, your post is for an after 1998 engine, but still relevant on all the components I am sure.

Cheers!

Well my wife got the car back today, the instrument cluster had been removed and sent to a specialist who found a few faulty capacitors and replaced them, drove it away from the repair shop for 10 minutes and tada! no gauge readings. AAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH! I hate it when simple stuff goes wrong, its so frustrating. So back to the shop for another go at it. I took some photos of the boards on the back of the cluster so will pull it apart again if they get it going and see which ones they replaced. I am glad I am 12K miles away or I would vent my frustration in a nonhelpful way!

Does anyone have a diagram or know of a website that shows how to change the starter in a 1991 LS 400? Maybe someone can just write a good walkthrough for me on here.

Thanks guys!

It is a very involved job, too long to write up, so I will just post the appropriate manual pages. They are from the

www.techinfo.toyota.com website, $10 for 24hr access, an excellent service.

Attached are the manual pages for the 92 model year, but should be the same.

Let us know how you got on.

starter.pdf

cylinder.pdf

I just drained the coolant from my 94 LS400 but I can't get any back in. I am adding it in the right place, but it will only take about a 1/4 cup before it overflows. I assume that there is air in the system blocking the flow, but how can I get it opened up? Thanks in advance for any help.

Dave

Refer step 5 in

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/cooling/coolant.html

It now idles around 980 when warm. I advised the dealer of this and they checked it again on their equipment and then advised me that it was within specs for a car this old and with 115K. They also said that there weren't any other adjustments that could be made to lower the rpm's. I'm afraid this could damage the transmission. Any suggestions?

Hmmmm, the factory specs for the car actually say Idle speed (Transmission in neutral, all loads off, No A/C): 750 ± 50 rpm. Your transmission will be fine even at the higher idle, but the cause for concern is them not knowing any better. My $10 says they have not set it in the correct position, as per the attached PDF file. Take it back to them and say the power of the internet is on your side!

The technical background is ;

The 98 year was the first to incoporate the electrically controlled throttle. The idle speed is controlled by the Electric Throttle Control System (ETCS).

ETCS is composed of the throttle motor to operate the throttle valve, the magnetic clutch to connect the

throttle motor with the throttle valve, the throttle position sensor to detect the opening angle of the throttle

valve, the accelerator pedal position sensor to detect the accelerator pedal position, the ECM to control the

ETCS and the one valve type throttle body.

The ECM controls the throttle motor to make the throttle valve opening angle properly for the target idle speed.

If the accelerator position sensor is not set correctly the car will be given a false position. Not much, but probably enough to raise you idle rpm.

Hope this sorts it.

SF_42_Throttle_position_sensor.pdf

6. Using crowbar (against the hole where the caliper bracket bolt screws into) and lots of wd40, get the darn rotor off: so rusty around the rims where connected to hub.

I've tried what seems like everything to get the driver's side front rotor off my 91LS.

Current plans are to swing by a hardware store tomorrow and pick up some grade 8 bolts that are threaded to the tip and see if I have any luck that way. Other ideas?

Yup, its obvious that you have been trying hard. Is the main hub of the rotor rusty as hell? While you are away at the store liberally apply penetrating oil (WD40) or diesel, should get in there given some time. If the corrsion has bonded the rotor on then they can be tough to get off, keep doing what you are as you will win.

As a last resort I have been known to use those little propane plumbers torches and put a little heat in (it is a brake rotor after all, and they do get hot, so it won't hurt it) to persuade any resistant parts to let go. Have an extinguiser handy if the thing is coated in oil though.

Good luck.

EDIT: Hahaha snap 4.0LS, you beat me to it!

Hi All,

I have problem with my FUEL METER on my 94 LS400 won't go up until I have drove it for a long while. And it won't go all the way up to full either; eventhough, I just filled up my tank. if anyone have any idea how to fix this issue, please help. Thanks

It is highly likely that you have the following problem;

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=5822

If not then it could also be the fuel sender, which is the sensor that determines the fuel level in the tank by sending a variable resistance signal back to the combination meter (instrument panel). The way to check is to access your fuel tank and carefully disconnect the 3 pin connector (from the '92 manual is connector F21) which has the Green with white stripe, Yellow with Black stripe and violet wires. Take a resistance reading between the two terminals that are connected to the yellow/black and violet wires (have a look at the attached file, it also shows which terminals are 2 & 3)

F21 FUEL SENDER

Continuity between terminals 2–3;

APPROX. 3 ohms AT FUEL FULL

APPROX. 110 ohms AT FUEL EMPTY

Unfortunately neither is easy to check!

fuel_sender.bmp