Leadfoot

Yes, they do have a tendancy to come in threes, although in your case I suspect you are only up to number 2. Can you confirm that the drops you found are oil, could they be power steering fluid? How is the power steering fluid level, colour, smell?

If you have the classic LS400 "leaking o-ring under the reserviour" caper then you may have a cheap fix, its not a major. Anything else and you are going to have get someone who you trust to crawl underneath and see whats leaking.

It is important that you deal with any power steering leaks fast as they have a nasty tendency to kill the alternator that lives below them. Not the sort of neighbour you want.

Yes apparently this is one of the few times where percusive maintenance actually does the trick!

My 2000 LS400 seat belt sensor lights work but there is no warning chime or buzzer.

How can I turn this function back on?

Thanks in advance!

Scott

Have you had the car in at a dealer recently? I don't know if this is one of the customisable features that can be adjusted with the Lexus diagnoistics computer. Maybe one of the techs can comment?

I have attached the 2 pages from the manual for my '92, which I am sure is the same. What is the trouble you are actually having? I am assuming your turn indicators do not work, have you checked the 7.5A turn fuse? Does the hazard switch work? (It can sometimes still work even if the turn signal doesn't, so this clue will help locate the faulty component).

If the fuse is OK the parts of the circuits to check are the hazard switch itself, the turn signal flasher and the turn signal switch on the steering column.

Sorry, don't know about the audio questions.

.

Turn_Relay.pdf

Thanks for your interest. As a matter of clarification, the problem is not steering related, but occurrs on the first application of the brakes in a new direction--forward or reverse.

It sounds like the pads are moving in the caliper to me, which is actually normal. If you greased everything up they will move easy, which may be a contributing factor. Here is a TSB on the very matter...you might try to get some of that magic grease (part # 08887–80609) from a toyota dealer.

If its more severe than a loud click, then as mentioned by TexLex94, it would pay to check that the pad support springs are all present and accounted for. Another possibilty is that the incorrect pads are installed, but that's unlikely as any tech worth their salt matches up the old part to the new.

brake_pads.pdf

Hey guys,

I was wondering if there is any relatively painless way to hook up a CD player or changer to the factory interface. I want the car completely stock so an after market deck isn't going to cut it, Just wanted to see what you guys think.

Or maybe I can break out the old tape collection

Thanks , Peter

Damn, I thought the 6 CD changer was installed standard from the factory. I didn't know it was optional. What cheap Ba£$%^rd specced your car when they bought it new. Probably have to change the console head unit, don't know about the wiring, hopefully the loom is all there just to connect up a spare from a wrecker.

I checked your photos again as I could not believe it didn't come with the CD. Someone here will know how to connect up an ipod, which is probably a better bet.

Thanks for the information. I am able to borrow the diagnostics handheld computer. Where is the hookup in the car located to hook the diagnostics reader to?

its under a little cap in the drivers footwell kickpanel, under the steering column.

The car is unquestionably still running at all times it is turned on but unless the accelerator pedal is floored the car does not run much above idle rpm speeds. A friend who knows cars told me it sounded like a throttle postion sensor :-?

Your car is in what is called "limp mode", and a malfunction has occurred in the electronic throttle system. It is a very clever system that determines how much power you want using the accelerator position sensor and evaluates the vehicle conditions (speed etc) to determine what position to put the electrically powered throttle valve (which has a position sensor of its own!). This complicated system of sensors, motors and clutches means the '98 and up are very smooth, but with added complication.

So the first thing you need to do is "limp" to someone who can read the onboard diagnostics info (you have an OBD2 system) and report back the fault codes. The most common fault I have seen people here having is with the position sensors.

The reason the VSC is showing a fault is due to the fact that the skid control is integrally linked to the throttle control system, since you have a fault the car will not be able "back off" the throttle and save your a$$ if you get it too far sideways!!

If a flush and fill fixed your shudder shouldn't there be a chance it'll do the same for him??

A "flush and fill" is different from a "drain and fill". Draining only takes out 2 quarts, flush swaps out the entire 8.9 quarts. For most of us it's a lot easier to do a few drain and fills than try to flush the entire system (haven't seen a procedure for this yet!). Achieves pretty much the same thing though.

during that five seconds code 24 and 31 came up.

Reading through the attached procedures it states that the system will switch to "fail safe" parameters if these faults are detected, so actually it should still run, albeit poorly. Might pay to clear the fault codes by pulling the EFI fuse for more than 10 seconds, cranking again and seeing if you get the same codes.

If thats the case then you can check the circuits using the following procedures; Definitely check the security of the connector. Don't know how good you are with a voltmeter, depending on the cost of the air flow meter it might be easier to swap it for a new one??

Good luck.

dtc24.pdf

dtc31.pdf

Fix your valve cover gaskets first, they may just need to be snug, you can do that yourself use a small combination wrench and will need socket and ratchet and an extension 1/4 diamater. My car is a 1998 and had to do the covers a couple of times, but no leaks at this time. Them after that is fixed check again for leaks. Many times the leaks from the gaskets get confused with the leaks from the valve covers, bolts that become loose with time and vibration, and this indicates that your rack is probably leaking and needs rebuilding or replacing which should be the other source of leaks. Your PS pump is probably good as new for 300,000 miles it might make a humm sound this is not with much more consequence than it being a bit noisy. I also snug really tight the main pressure line that goes into the PS pump, you could loosen it and replace part *96341-41603, bolt union and gasket, but it might not be necessary it costs about 20 bucks, but the dealer will tell you to replace the high pressure hose, something that costs about 700 at the dealer without talking about labor, unless your high pressure hose has a hole in the rubber area do not worry about it.

CPR

This is good advice. The camseals are a big job since the VVTI actuators and housings have to be removed. Best to try the simple stuff, like tightening the covers to the factory torque and giving everything a good clean and actually trace where its coming from. Oil gets blown around everywhere in an engine bay. The shops "best guess" sounds fishy to me, they stand to make a lot of money if you give them the go ahead. Chances are the pan is just the area where the leaking oil is ending up.

Torque for '98 covers = 6.0Nm, I do not know how easy they are to get to as my car is 12,000 miles away! There are 9 per cover.

replaced the starter in the 93LS went to start, she cranks and and fires but then dies, got the, 15 - Ignition no. 2 signal, on

the trouble code, what and where is the number 2 ignition? I had to take the cluster out to check my check engine light, and found that the bulb was missing, someone didn't like to see it, or they didn't want me to see it. the holder was there but the bulb was gone. i'm affraid this might be just the begining to getting her back up and running, any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

That code indicates you have a fault in the igniter circuit on the right bank (sitting in the drivers seat looking forward the right bank is on the right)

Please refer the attached procedure (for a '92 but it will be the same) which, along with everything else for your car, is available for download from www.techinfo.toyota.com for $10/24hr access.

If you have no spark I would jump straight to step 7 and check the coil. If thats OK then go back to step 4 and follow the instructions.

Let us know how you get on.

dtc1415.pdf

From your avatar photo there is only one thing that I can spot that's wrong with your car Pete, it looks like you need more gas in the tank!! You got a bargain.

I have a simple question. is it possible that a car won`t start because of a bad mass air flow meter.

thanks

bdjh

simple answer = yes. But its not as likey as quite a few other things. How about posting some more info, car year, mileage, conditions when you have problems starting, etc. We need clues to help you out!!

Yep, coil. Problem solved. Thanks for all the help! lol

What an excellent thread, we need more members like you 91'! Good work, thanks for posting the solution.

im graduating school this year got this 98 ls 400 in August last night i started it she ran perfectly this morning i got up turns over but no start what is a possible problem lonely in virginia

With a spark ignition internal combustion engine there are two things that always need to be checked first, fuel and spark.

1) Do you have fuel pressure at the injector rails? have a look at the attached file and get someone to help you check that there is fuel pressure in the line shown.

2) Do you have spark? have a look at the attached procedure and see if all is as it should be.

Report back your findings for further help.

All the info you could ever want is available at www.techinfo.toyota.com, $10 for 24hr access and you can download untill your finger siezes.

Good luck.

IG_1_ovi.pdf

SF_5_ovi.pdf

It's a very slow leak they think and is OK for now.

Stu

Hi Stu, welcome to the boards.

With the old cars there is two classic steering problems, both very well documented in the FAQ section. Spend some time familiarising yourself with other peoples pain so you don't have to repeat it.

#1- The oring under the reservior leaks, (or sometimes a hose leaks) and drops fluid onto your alternator, killing it. You want to do preventitive maintenance. Do not wait on this one, as everyone says its an easy fix if its the problem.

#2 - the air valve on the steering pump malfunctions and the fluid gets sucked into the intake, causing blue smoke to be noticed on start up. This can really empty the reservior fast even if no-one can see leaks under the car.

The dashlights are related to old capacitors misbehaving when cold. As per others recommendations.

Good luck.

When the HVAC blower is engaged on high it is quite loud, accompanied by a vibration, same with the medium setting only not as extreme. The low setting is silent except for an occasional ticking when the car is cold.

Anyone know what this could be?

Pete

Yup, if its not some loose debris that has gotten in there somehow (have you got kids??) then it could be from the factory. Here is a bit from my users manual new features list;

1998 MY LS400 — NEW FEATURES - AIR CONDITIONING

1. Description

The following items have been changed in the ’98 LS400.

blah blah blah

Flex fins have been adopted in the center vent to reduce the noise that is created by the airflow.

I wonder if you are not alone in this and they rectified in later years?

Good idea.

hi all, i have a 99 ls400 the 60k is coming up, lexus charges $1400 for the service which is mostly just changing all the fluids, is it necessary to take it to lexus or can it be done at a good mechanic place? any thoughts or opinon is grateful.

If you want the stamps in the book you have to pay full odds, however I took my 98 to a toyota dealer for its 60K mile service and they did my timing belt (which was absolutely knackered after 10 years) and idler bearing and water pump for NZ$400, instead of NZ$2000 from the lexus stealer. I did supply them with genuine parts though, just for my piece of mind, and I made sure I saw the parts they took off.

Depends on how long you are going to keep the car in my opinion.

I'm no mech, but I would certainly check a manual or online service before starting to remove the fuel tank for a filter change if I wasn't sure where it was. Sounds crrrazy.

Absolutely, or he could have asked here! Fair enough about the filter in the tank, but the filter that normally gets serviced is the inline one thats easy to access (almost like someone planned that huh!). Here's hoping for a happy conclusion.

Actually the problem makes sense now. I think he reconnected the output from the pump to the breather for the charcoal canister, not the fuel line to the injector rail. I had been wondering how the lines had made the jump, but I was assuming he was changing the inline filter, not the pump filter. Its probably a lot easier to explain now. What a bummer.

Ok...so turns out my gas tank has been "DAMAGED BEYOND REPAIR" as well, so the dealership has ordered me a new one which will be here in 5-6 days.

So my baby will be gone ANOTHER week!!!!!

So new tank, and new carbon canister. Tab is arond $1200 now! My mechanic will love that! hahahaha

Free stuff for me yay!

No way! what the did your mechanic do to it? Can you get photos? You may need them for the court case ( I really hope not). This seems absolutely over the top for a mere fuel filter change! Tough break dude.

I'm going to junk the bad key, and get another but what should happen if I try using a bad key? All I've been able to find out is that the "starting system will be disabled". Does that mean the starter motor will not turn or that the starter will turn but something (fuel pump relay?) will keep the engine from starting?

It will most likely be the anti theft ECU is preventing the engine from sparking up.

The worst thing is to walk into a Lexus dealer. They don't wear ski masks, but they'll get you for a bank robbery price regardless...

They why they are called lexus stealers....although I get all my parts from them.

I'm in the early stages of researching a used ls400 and I've seen some consumer reviews that point out "soft" or "spongy" breaks and the car's sensitivity to bumps in the road. Is this a general problem of ls400s in the 90s or of certain model years in the 90s? I was thinking of a $10K ceiling to a purchase (though not ready to buy just yet) and any repairs/replacements that may need to be done. That, more or less, constrains me to 1995 (or 1996) or older editions. If there are good reasons to consider a younger car than '95 or '96 for a couple thousand more, I'd be interested in hearing. Nice to join the forum.

Charles

Welcome to the board!

Check out the pinned threads at the top of our board, which show the typical things to look for, i.e. the ECU fault that causes a stall in a 95 or 96 which pulls up to lights after driving on freeways, etc.

I highly recommend you check out the LS generations at

http://www.lexls.com/info/lsgenerations.html

This gives the best low down on all the models and the specifications.

I have a 92 which I love dearly, and I just bought my wife a 98. The early cars have less gizmos and hence less to go wrong, but given their age now little things do go wrong!! (or else these boards would be fairly quiet). The later models have a better spec and performance, so get to know what flavour of LS you prefer, get to know its weaknesses, and hunt out a good one.

The search function on these boards is great for specific info on a topic.

Feel free to post questions, you are doing the right thing by researching first.