Leadfoot

The parking brake light comes on when you start the car, no matter if its on or not? What causes that?

Also, The teacher lost the trunk key. And on the 1991 the driver key will not open it. It also seems that the button near the fuel door will not work for the trunk release, but it will work for the fuel door. Why is that? Is there any way to access the trunk now?

Hey Ryan,

The foot mechanism on my 1992 parking brake sometimes sticks a bit, even when the brake is "off". When I release the hand lever I also have to kick my toe under the foot lever and lift a bit to unstick, hey presto light goes out. The parking light is a full red square with a P in it. The brake light circuit fault sensor is an exclaimation mark with brackets = (!) if thats showing the ECU has detected the wrong circuit resistance and thinks there is a bust bulb.

The key you have is the Valet key, so when you drop your car off at the golf course no-one can ever get into your trunk with your keys!

Have fun!

After doing 85mph+ for an extended period of time...30min+ or so, when slowing down to below 30mph or so....traffic or coming off the ramp, the engine light comes on and shuts down. What could possibly be the problem?

Depending on the model you have it may be related to the ECU. There was a series of ECU's on the 95-96 years that had idle problems if your aircon was OFF. The problem does not get worse, but it is still a danger/hassle. The car started right back up again and didn't play up right after did it? Try with the AC on and see if it happens again in the same situation.

For the full details refer the following thread;

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...9&hl=stalls

While driving, vibration starts suddenly and gradually but within 2-3 seconds reaches maximum. There is no associated noise and no abnormal smells. The vibration feels exactly like having a completely flat tyre. As a matter of fact, the first time it happened, I pulled up to check for a tyre blow out. Bringing the car to a stop (no need to switch off the engine) cures the problem completely. Subsequently, the car drives smooth and beautifully until this strange symptom strikes again - usually weeks or months before it happens again. There was a string on this subject in 2004 but with no clear conclusion or solution (e.g. ebrake, front axle bushings etc). Attempting to drive faster when the vibration occurs makes the vibration worse. All four tyres checked and okay. No overheated tyres when driving.

This may not be related, but every time that the vibration occurred I had just joined a main highway from a slip road.

Has anyone had a similar experience and found a definitive solution.

Many thanks

Femi

I would hazard a guess that a brake caliper may be playing up. Do you feel it in the drivers wheel when it happens? Since stopping cures it that is a big clue. The fact that it occurs when you are accelerating to a high speed is due to the fact that you probably won't notice it at slow speed since the LS has progressive power steering, the faster you go the less assist you get and the more "feel" you will have. If there is an unbalance due to brakes then the power steering could act like a big damper. Worth checking out next time you have your disc pads inspected to see how evenly they are wearing.

Sorry I haven't had any experience of this directly, hopefully someone will chime in!

Please humour me and just confirm that the Check Engine Light actually lights when the ignition is switched on, I remember reading one thread where the bulb was blown and that threw everyone! Normal output is a steady flashing sequence. You said no lights above, just want to eliminate the obvious, no disrespect to your mechanical ability!

It may be related to the throttle position sensor, please check as per the attached doc.

Fuel issues do not tend to come up on the computer system so I think you may be right there. The 92 has a separate cold start injector system that will aid cold running, and it could be a problem with this that is causing the misfire once the system has warmed up and its getting over fueled. When your car misfires is there a strong fuel smell from the exhaust pipes? When was the fuel filter last changed? Is there is stong pulse on the fuel damper on the fuel rail?

TPS.pdf

Car has O/D light flashing and not shifting into overdrive. I also think that sometimes the trans shifts from 1st to 3rd skipping 2nd.

Can the wire prob. throw false codes? What does it indicate when the cel light blinks without the OBD being jumped?

My '92 has a trans malfunction in the 1-2 solenoid that also skips second gear sometimes. The OD light will blink at a steady rate when the computer detects a fault while driving, but apparently it takes two driving cycles before it signals to you according to the manual.

To read the trans codes you have to jump the terminals (can't remember which ones but you know anyway) You read the error codes for the transmission the same as for the check engine light, count the flashes of the OD light.

Let us know what it says, mine has been faulty for 18 months now ( I can live without 2nd occasionally!)

Time for an update. After being unable to source a RHD cluster anywhere in the asia-pacific area I bought an instrument cluster from a wrecked 2000 LS400 in the UK. I carried the damn thing home to NZ in my hand luggage. Not one customs or security person asked me what it was.

So the good news, I now have a euro spec cluster working perfectly in an australasian spec car, no problems. Only took me 5 months to get fixed..........

Sure is nice to be back on the road.

Did you use new gaskets on the fuel pipe union joints? The manual states the gaskets are not reuseable, however I have not had to do this job (thankfully, it looks involved) so I don't know what the gaskets are made off. Some crushable ones will leak when reused even when you have done the connection up tight.

I don't think a gunk fix is a good idea other than for a temporary "get it home" scenario. I hope you get to the cause soon.

What, no dinner, motor talk, or keg of Budweiser first? What kind of Southern Hill-Billy do you take me for?

But, it goes something like "Look here at this Lexus issued TSB on specifications. Do you see those numbers? Do I need to notify my friends at the Better Business Burea, who undoubtably will file a report, that will be picked up by the SBA "Small Business Adminstration" during their quarterly review, and will ultimately contact you for being in default of your loan agreement, to not take part in such unethical business practice".

I was very mad that day, and I know a thing or two about small businesses, especially new ones. It also helps that I live in a "on-line" county, with direct access to the registry of deeds. The SBA records certain documents, that can be found...

Hehehe thought that might get a bite. Excellent use of the TLA (three letter acronym), I am awarding full points. Sorry about the keg of budweiser, its nearly all gone....

First time I fell for it, second time I barked like a junkyard dog, which resulted in a perfectly turned set of rotors... ;)

We would all appreciate a demonstration of this technique, could you post it on Youtube? Thanks.

Sorry, I don't have direct experience with this one (yet).

Attached is a rough guide to checking the fuel pressure in the line, the proper way is to hook up a gauge but this is really easy. Refer picture below. The special service tool is a piece of wire that jumpers the 12V at the B terminal of the check connector to the pump. Please be very careful as the instructions highlight, as the 12V will harm circuits on the other terminals if you accidentally contact them.

I have looked through the manual and the most common cause of trouble starting hot is the water temp sensor, followed by vacuum leakage, then fuel quality. If you can start eliminating these factors you will hopefully solve it.

The water temp sensor is listed as quite an involved job, eliminate the other 2 first. If you are still stalling on acceleration when hot (I don't know how the tank level affects this) then come back for more help.

I want to try this myself, but I am afraid I will mess this up. Do the 1 and 2 solenoids look diffrent from each other? Also do they go in diffrently from each other? The pic from the diy makes them look the same.

Sorry, the manual is over the top, you do not need to remove the valvebody. Jeff is right, you only need to do a few of the steps listed. Also his advice to change both #1 & # 2 at the same time makes some good sense. They are the same part number and you cannot mix them up.

I attached the full valvebody section because you get the bolt torques and a good overview of the system (plus someone in the future may reference this thread and find it useful).

Attached below are the workshop instructions for my '92, its a job I would do myself if I had all the tools, a comfortable clean dry warm place to work and a free day.

Very satisfying knowing its all done the way you like, and you save some money too.

I have a sticky solenoid also, but mine has only been playing up for just over a year and a half now.......

The transmission is very clever and when it detects a malfunction it changes the valve actuation method and trys its best to mask the fault.

.

valvebody.pdf

Have you got both the master key and valet key? The valet key won't open the trunk manually, and if the trunk lock is on the release latch inside won't work either (especially if the battery is dead). Try the other keys manually in the trunk if you have them.

Anyway, does anybody know how much extra time it adds to replace these seals?

Thank you.

Eddie

Hi Eddie,

I don't know how much time it would take someone but they have to completely dismantle the VVTI cam controller and remove the cam covers to get to the seals. I was contemplating doing this job, even bought the seals, but by the time I read the procedure I had chickened out.

Below is a picture of the camshaft seal position. The unfortunate thing is they are behind the VVTI camshaft timing unit and also under a large bearing cap, as seen in the pictures from the manual.

My advice is this job should only be attacked if leakage is actually seen from the seals. I would have to have a lot of trust in the shop before I would let them loose on something this complicated.

Can you give us some history on the car and why you are wanting this work done?

Thanks.

Pretty sure its the ones on the left. Check for fraying, exposed or broken conductors. Should be obvious.

I have heard the whomp sound on moving off before, but it turned out to be a kitten. (sorry)

NC speaks the truth, a lot of early cars had this problem. However you did state that the OD light blinks on, which is indicative of the #2 solenoid or similar problems. Heck, check both out, its doesn't cost you anything, yet!! Filter is a nice job to get ticked off, especially if you have to open the pan up to get to some faulty parts!

The early cars don't have it, but my 98 does and I use it all the time in New Zealand. With no ozone anymore the car interior gets very hot, so I often leave the windows cracked open just enough to ventilate. When you do go to get into the car you can fully open all the windows while you are putting stuff in the trunk. By the time you sit down and put the reflective sunshades away and start up the aircon has a much easier job to do. Personally I love the feature. However I hate the double unlock for all doors, it always catches me out.

What a brilliant resource, thanks very much Nick!

Should I be risking a flush and fill with 300k on the transmission? I am trying not to have to drop a new tranny in the car.

Welcome to the board.

General consensus around here seems to be that the pressure flush and fill is not good for the transmission, better to do multiple drain and refills (exchanges 2 quarts per time). Total volume is around 8 quarts so you get a good clean out after a few goes. The correct toyota type 4 fluid is not cheap though!

Also check out the Lexls website on how to read the onboard diagnostics (OBDI) fault codes, thats what your transmission is trying to communicate to you when it blinks. If you put the shorting wire into the diagnostics connector the code will blink out and you can post the info here and we will give you details of whats gone wrong.

Yup, you got a bargain if you are patient enough to sort out the little bugs it will have.

hi,

i was just wondering if anyone knew why the overdrive light in the dash would keep flashin' for a couple of minutes then go off when engine is cold and in drive position...

thank you

frank

What year car do you have? More than likely its the fault code alert signal for the transmission. Do a code check on your car and observe the codes that the OD lamp indicates and report back here for some help. How you do it depends on the onboard diagnostics for your year. Pre 1998 is easy with a wire, post needs an OBDII reader.

Well, time for an update. After 6 weeks in the specialists lab they couldn't make the cluster reliable and have given up. They say even though it works intermittenly the easiest thing to do is fit a replacement. Replacement cluster panel PCB and gauges is USD 6,353 from my local Lexus Dealer. That is not a typo, its half as much as I paid for the whole CAR!!! Tried to find a replacement through the breakers, but guess what! nobody is wrecking a 1998 in the whole country (NZ). Not good so far.

So took the car and sick cluster to a recommend "whizkid" who has performed some miracles on merc clusters. After 1 week he phoned up to inform me he has now totally fried my board, so now nothing works at all. I drove it home today with a gapping hole in front of me. A distinct low point in my Lexus ownership history.

So I need to source part number 83800-50070 - an "Australasian" spec cluster. Looks like its going to be a long time before she is back on the road......

he suggested the problem is with the Fuel Pump Relay and Circuit Opening Relay

Without a doubt my previous car, the 1978 MGBGT. I fixed that damn thing every weekend for 2 years, then my wife got in the family way and I went and bought my first LS. After that I started actually enjoying motoring again, rather than listening with intense paranoia for the slightest thing that sounded wrong. It was a lot more fun through central London traffic than the LS though!

Probably had kids! that tends to make people disappear for a few months while they adjust......thats what happened in my case.