onecrazynavajo

Thanks for the reply. Allright, so I should be tight enough when the bolt can crank the crankshaft and everything else turned by the timing belt? I don't need to hold the pulley in place somehow and continue to tighten the bolt any more? Once again, thanks for your reply, I always have confidence in your suggestions.

I searched like crazy through here, TN, SG, CL, anyway, found about a million ways to get the bolt off, but none to get it back on to spec. Anyone have any suggestions?

I am in dire need of a crankshaft pulley, no. 1 timing belt cover, and a no. 2 timing belt cover seal. Mainly, the pulley is the one that i have had trouble finding. Anybody have any tips or places to find these items that aren't really inventoried in parts stores. I don't want to go to the dealership. Used would be ideal. Any suggestions at all would be much appreciated.

Just to settle this for anyone searching in the future with similar symptoms. The problem was that the front control arm bushings were way gone. they had a ton of back and forward motion (they should oly be able to rotate). It was easy to diagnose after taking the front wheels of and pulling on the brake assembly. Any slack at these points allows the wheels to shift their toe-in, and that's what jerks the car. As far as when it happens, i think it just has a tendency to do it at certain speeds and amounts of acceleration/decceleration due to weight shifts. I was just noticing mine because it had just had an alignment job after not beeing aligned for a long time. If u ever see that your bushing is shot, take off the control arm, press or cut out the bushing, go buy one for 25 bucks, and get ahold of a bench-press or use a balljoint c-clamp tool to press the new bushing in (the latter can be borrowed from autozone). just make sure it's straight. also, making alignment marks before taking the old one out will save u a big headache.

i wouldn't even pay half that to replace the motor. look for the part and it is easily doable your self. but first wash the inside of the switch. they tend to get really corroded with this black junk. that will usually help with current issues. oten times that's all that needs to be done. from there, do the regulator yourself. last resort do the the motor. go through the hierarchy to save money, and it doesn't sound like a motor issue to me anyway. what you need to do though is check for potential drop across the motor. ionly know the diagram for the 1997-2001. it may or may not be the same. if you pull the terminal out of the switch and count the wholes, i can tell you if it's the same.

i guess i should explain what i meant by same problem. when your car gets going to a certain speed, and your tie rod is malfunctioning, the car kinda switches which wheel's toe-in to use. so it feels like a jerk to the left or right (same way every time). it may also not be the tie-rod but that should be fixed anyway and from there you should be able to diagnose what steering component is out of whack. your symtoms usually happen when the car has been in an accident and the components don't run parallel anymore. it's knda like "bump-steer"

it sounds funny, but that might be the same problem. also, search and read up on tranny flushes. it kinda depends on the flushing history of the car. I would do a drain and refill at both places if you dont know how long its been or the condition of the fluid. i may be wrong though, people have discussed that topic at great length on this forum though (or on club lexus).

I searched the forum but to no success. My car has had some very faulty suspension/steering/alignment for quite some time. recently i have replaced struts all around, and done four wheel alignment. here's the problem: the steering feels way too inaccurate when the car accelerates from a stop. Then, after shifting through 4, it feels like the steering snaps all of the sudden and the vehicle jerks to the right (the wheel spins about 20-30 degrees). At first i thought it was coinciding with the shift into fourth, but now im not too sure. As you would imagine, the extent of the wander is a lot worse when turning. Also after the "snap" happens, the vehicle handles better, although still not like it should. A little help would very appreciated, i respect your guys' input. Thanks

yeah. i had a similar problem when i bought mine. just pull out the driver side switch, pry it open and clean all the contacts, paying special attention to the passenger side one. the switch is pretty easy to get out.

I searched but did not find anything relevant. Can i get away with buying a t belt from a discount store and experience at least 60k (miles) longevity? I wouldnt ask but i tend to use cheaper parts and am sceptical with this particular one, seeing as how much abuse it takes.

What exactly is wrong with the body? And if you mean what i think you do by the "brake light" sensor (the eyelash light as sated above), then be absolutely sure that all your tail light (all of them) are in working order. I have a 97 with tons of mileage as well and am more than willing to lend any piece of advice that i can.