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jbarhorst2

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Posts posted by jbarhorst2

  1. When I did my last tune up, my dealer said that they use this rule of thumb. On my SC300, the plugs are due every 60,000 miles and they change the wires every 120,000 miles. So, if you're wires were changed 70,000 miles ago and they still test good, then I would assume you are OK for another cycle barring anything odd happening.

    Tom

  2. I believe what SW is referring to is the method that Lexus uses to balance the tires. Acura does nearly the same thing (and they also have the same issue - several members of my family work for American Honda).

    Not many people are properly trained (or take the time needed) to accurately balance the wheels with the recommended method.

    SW - is that what you meant?

    Tom

  3. As I remember from changing mine, the cap should come right off.

    To replace the seal you will actually have to remove the distributor from the engine, not just the cap.

    You will also need to take care to re-insert the distributor correctly and adjust the timing after the installation.

    Let me know if you need more direction.

    Tom

  4. The snow switch starts you out in second gear so that you do not spin the tires.

    I know it's little consolation, but Honda is not perfect either. Their largest warranty item from the past several years has been automatic transmissions. I have family in the Engineering group for American Honda and even he was affected. The tranny in his Acura died and he had to get it replaced. I guess it is a big problem. There are facilites dedicated to rebuilding and modifying these transmissions sent back from the dealerships. Ugly situation.

    I bought a small pump that you hook up to a drill to run. I plan to use this soon to replace my gear oils as well. Hopefully it makes replacing the fluid easier.

    Tom

  5. Here is my recommendation.

    Use only the fluids that your manual specifies.

    You can get a shop manual from the dealer or you can download it as described before. I personally like the one from the dealer, but to each his own.

    The small clips can be purchased at your Lexus or Toyota dealer. Just take one in and show them what you want. They are really pretty cheap.

    That capacity listed in your owners manual is for a pan drain and refill. The entire transmission and torque converter holds a lot more, but if you just drain the pan then that is the amount you need to replace. If you want to make sure it is correct you can capture the drained fluid in a pan and then measure it.

    Tom

  6. Definitely change it. Even if you have to pay for it (but I don't think you will).

    Before mine died it cranked slowly about 3 times over the course of a month. Then one night it would not start the car. After I jumped it, it was fine for several days, but at that point I was worried and changed mine. I knew it was dying. Batteries do not cost very much. And they certainly are a lot less trouble than waiting for someone to pick you up when you are stranded.

    Tom

  7. My battery just recently died on my 2001 RX300. My RX is still under the CPO warranty for another 7 months, but batteries are not covered under the CPO warranty. The retail price for the battery from the dealer was $97 or $98. I have a good relationship with my Parts Manager and he gives me a discount so I didn't pay that much. I know I could have gotten a cheaper battery elsewhere, but it is worth it to me to continue the good relationship with the delaership and the parts guy. It certainly has paid off for me in the past.

    Anyway, your battery (as my service advisor explained to me) is covered under the original Lexus warranty. You car is new enough (under 4 years or 50,000 miles) that you should have no problem getting them to replace it for free. If they do not want to do that for some reason, go buy one somewhere else.

    Tom

  8. After you remove the carpet on the same wall as your taillight assemblies, you need to remove several nuts off of the studs sticking through the body panel. These studs come through the body panel from the taillight assembly. Once you remove the nuts you can wiggle the entire taillight from the outside and remove it.

    Be careful, it's easy to scratch your bumper if you are not taking great care in removing this assembly.

    Let me know if you need more info.

    Tom

  9. Actually I think it is your distributor O-ring.

    Not a big deal to replace it if you have done any car repairs yourself in the past.

    You should probably also replace the rotor, cap, and dust seal while you are at it because there will be a coating of oil all over the inside of the cap.

    The timing is not a big problem. You can use a timing light to adjust after you put it back together, or you can carefully mark the adjustment before you remove the distributor. Both will work well.

    I did mine last year with great results.

    Good luck.

    Tom

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