MitchB

It will be so low that you can't measure it with a regular DVM.

You can try revving the engine up to about 3k and see if the voltage goes up over 15 Volts. If so, you definitely have a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. Flickering is often a regulator problem, even if the "average" voltage is about 14 Volts.

Ah, a '93! There is a code for "Loss of Distributor Signal" (or very close to that phrase) on all Toyota motors since at least the mid '80's. "Code 12" on many Toyo engines. Even if you've pulled the battery and lost codes, just hook it back up and crank it for five to ten seconds. The ECU knows you are turning the key because the Start signal from the ignition switch goes to the starter as well. You should get a distributor code IF that's the problem.

No, leave the terminals connected.

Anybody that actually knows where the EGR valve gets its flow from, and where it goes to, knows that a stuck open valve will screw up the idle.

Geez, some of us don't have pre-'96 cars. I use a laptop to read my Lexus. OBDII rocks. :)

As you can see, I'm a new member here. BUT, not new to Toyotas. I have an MR2 with a V6 that I personally swapped in, and my MR2 is lowered. As a new owner of my SC300, I'll admit that I'm a little green in some areas of the SC, so if I'm wrong about the following statements, I'll apologize now. :) When the car is lowered, most of us know that the camber angle will change. The solution is often camber kits, but Crash Bolts will accomplish a similar fix, for a LOT less money.

You might have had a crank angle sensor go belly up. You can likely pull an engine code and find out what died. What year is your car?