chococat

What you are looking for is a car cassette adapter, it looks like this: car cassette adapter example They can be had for $5 to $15, various makers, various places to buy them. Sound quality is good in my opinion. I have a 2000 as well and that is what I personally use. Hope that helps. :)

Let us know how it goes. It has been two days for me and my CEL has not come back on. I feel pretty gratified.

Honestly, just walk in there and tell them what you need and what car you own. You will need the O2 Sensor for upstream. And don't get the universal one that is less money unless you want to pretend you are an electrician under your car and rewire the thing. That didn't sound like fun to me. The socket is an O2 sensor socket. It is the perfect size and has a cut out for the wire to go thru. You will understand when you go to slip it on and unscrew it. I unclipped the sensor by pressing the top of the clamp that was holding the O2 sensor. You may want to look at the sensor that is near the radiator to just understand the dynamics of what you are dealing with and how to release the clip before you slide under the car. Once I released the clip I unscrewed the sensor. (Oh and I almost cried I was so happy lol) Also, I did this by jacking up the car on the drivers side and setting it on two jack stands, and also took off my wheel and then slid in from the drivers side. I was thus in a position to be able to find two holes between all that metal to slip one hand in on my left and my whole arm on my right. It helped being small here. Small tools helps too. Space is limited. The sensor is about 1/2 way under the car.

Changed mine today as a matter of fact! Bank 1 Sensor 1 near the firewall, under the car on a 2000 ES300. $169.99 Bosch part from Advance Auto, $13.89 socket as well, and just a standard socket set. My code was P1130, but same part. About 1.5 hrs from start to finish. Not bad for a middle-aged woman w/minimal car fixing experience in the 96* heat! I am pretty happy with me. :D Sensors probably can be had cheaper elsewhere, but I have plans to drive this weekend and couldn't wait. This one was local and in stock and cheaper then Napa's $212. Best Wishes to you!

Is it a whine or a squeak? I have a 2000 and the steering wheel squeaks when I turn it. I have no steering issues and plenty of fluid, so the squeak is not #1 on my list of priorities, but I would be curious as to how some answer your question.

So did you do the job yet and if so, what did you end up replacing? And once inside...what did you see that was about to possibly fail?

Thank you. That was really helpful. I find that being a 'girl' the more I learn about the car I drive the less afraid I am when something breaks. And this car really has been good to me. Part comes in tomorrow and a friend will help replace it.

Pulled out of my garage this afternoon and trailed gas behind me... Was leaking from the damper assembly again, but once I stopped the car, no matter how many times I started the car or drove around, i could not get it to leak again. I went ahead and drove to NAPA and bought the damper assembly (and other fun things I needed like valve cover gaskets, and a transmission pan gasket). I am hoping replacing the damper assembly will solve everything. Still would like to see if someone else has replaced this item or what exactly does it DO??

I have a 2000 ES300, 160K miles on it. Yesterday I noticed a strong gas smell. Thought is was a fluke, drove 45min home. Got home and still a bad smell. Turns out the screw had popped out of the Fuel Damper Assembly Part #23270-62010 on the engine. And gas was GUSHING out as the car ran. Kind of scary. Tried googling this part # and what it is and does and still didn't find anything concrete. Tried searching here on the forums for a similiar problem to no avail. Was it ok just to screw the screw back in and pop the yellow plastic cap back on? (which is what I did). Drove it this morning, no problems. Any help would be appreciated.

In 11/07 @ 131,235 miles I pulled P0125, (2) P1155, & P1150 codes off my car, all were fixed by just adding radiator fluid. I hope you find a simple and easy fix.

362K miles? Wow! Good job!!

I just wanted to share my happiness... I have a 2000 ES300, 159K miles on her. Bought her off eBay 5 yrs ago and have had no problems except the knock sensors. Replaced them at home for $300. Aside from tires, belts, etc, the car has been a dream. This month I start seeing transmission oil underneath. A friend said it was probably the seal between the engine and transmission. Oh great...a $10 part, but a $700-$1200 job. Ok. No worries. I mean right? It's worth it for a beautiful car that I love so much. I just start socking money away to fix it. It was only leaking 1-8 drops a day. THEN I take it to have my oil changed and Jiffy Lube says I have a transmission leak (yes I know) and I am leaking engine oil. Engine Oil? I haven't ever seen engine oil leaking. They must be mistaken. Well...I am not that worried about it, but I am still stressing over the transmission. Tonight...my friend and I get under my car today, start taking things apart and you know what? The transmission pan is loose, almost all the bolts. And you know where it is wet with transmission oil? All around the pan. Ta-da! Tighten the pan and wow! No more leak! Yay! As for the engine oil, I need new camshaft gaskets, but that is easy(er). I did the hugest happy dance this evening! Imagine thinking your car is dying and then realizing it isn't so bad. It's a good car day today!! And maybe this all seems silly to you, but being a "girl", I don't want to worry about my car, and I surely want to know what's wrong with it before taking it in somewhere to be fixed. I don't want to be taken because I am deemed as stupid. May she last another 60K miles!

Honestly, I am not sure. Let me tell you...my then husband was a psychologist, not a mechanic, so the tools he had were not overly 'special'. I think is was a matter of having a good socket set for the most part and looking up the torque specifications. Oh, that is a tool, that little thing that shows torque pressure. Sorry, I am not a mechanic either. :) This forum has a repair booklet posted and really it is most helpful, it goes step by step. If you do some research online you can find pictures too, I think one set of pictures may be for a Toyota Sienna, which I think is a similiar type of car design. You can at least get the dynamics that way. Hope that helps some.

If you are somewhat mechanically inclined get the parts at your toyota dealership and replace them yourself. My (then) husband and I replaced ours in a few hours. The parts cost for 2 was $360. Only one was bad, but if you are already in there, you mind as well replace both. The dealer wanted to charge us $1000 for parts and labor. I could be wrong, but you can eventually mess up your transmission if you let it go too long. For us the car always RPM'd too high which is not good. Best wishes to ya.

Don't know if they are the same type of keys, but my 2000 ES has a long blade remote and back in 05 I bought 2 Key Blanks w/Transponders & Remote off eBay for $85 and had them cut locally for $27. The trick is to buy new blank shells w/blades and then separately buy old precut keys just for the transponder. Who cares about the cut key. I programmed them myself. You can pull the instructions off the internet. It is this whole song and dance of putting the key in the ignition and opening and closing doors and turning knobs. I suggest doing it when your neighbors aren't around so they don't think you are a freak. :P My originals and the new ones have all since broke (the blade from the shell), they are held together currently with electrical tape. :) So... I bought 2 blanks w/blades off eBay for $25 (including shipping) and plan to slip the old transponders into them and have the keys cut locally. My point...no need to pay hundreds of dollars for the silly keys, when with a little patience, deals can be had. Best wishes to ya!

I can tell you from experience that just the sensors alone, at least for us, were $360 for two. Tear open start to finish is 4-6 hours depending on the person, so it seems they price the quoted is about right. If you were half way mechanically inclined you could do it yourself. My husband and I have a 2000 and we replaced both sensors, since we were in there, in about 6 hours start to finish. We downloaded the repair manual from online and also got some pictures from a similiar engine to show where everything was. The engine really isn't as scary as it looks and the sensors are easy to find. However, if you don't want to bang your head and be bothered, then you are going to have to pay the $800, again, half of which is parts, the rest is labor. I am pretty sure the battery is unrelated. A dead battery wouldn't throw a code. I know that from experience too because we just replaced our battery last week. The car not turning over, due to a dying battery, threw no code whatsoever.... Hope that helps. :)

I agree, I don't think 79K is that high of mileage, in fact, I think it is pretty good. Consumer Reports rates these cars well. We bought our 2000 2+ years ago off ebay with 99K miles on it and we are up to 130K miles. Very little problems...we replaced the knock sensors and a battery, nothing else out of the ordinary. It has been a beauty of a car. I see nothing wrong with buying 'older' model luxury cars. Let someone else suffer the depreciation. I get an amazing amount of compliments on my 7 year old car. Just do your homework and know what you are looking for in the way of flaws.

We replace both sensors since we were at it, we were 100% sure by that time it was just one sensor and not the harness nor the EMC. It was a 3 hour job from start to test drive finish. That included draining the radiator fluid, disassembly and reassembly. In all honesty, I just 'helped' but tearing apart the engine to get to the sensors is pretty straight forward, just a matter of screws and torque. Our CEL never came back on, we fixed it and it was very gratifying. :)

If your CEL light is on, take it to autozone, ask them to read the code, most often they can read it for free. We had it read multiple times during a 3 week period as we worked on diagnosing the car. They were always very nice about it. We finally narrowed ours down to being the Bank 2 Knock Sensor and we plan on replacing them this weekend.

When the CEL's come on, the car goes into 'limp mode', this is why it will not shift into 4th. It is in the Factory Service Manuals (FSM). We are having a similar issue with our 00' model. We have the P0330 code and our car doesn't shift past 4th. Thankfully, everything is around town and the car is still usable. We used the FSM and figured out our A/F sensors are fine, the wires also seem fine, and really, so does the brain, so we are kind of of stuck unless we take it into the dealership. Interesting that yours started with the transmission flush, because ours coincided with an engine flush. I posted about a possible correlation, but didn't get any responses here. Post if you get a resolve, it would help. :)

This was posted *long* ago, I realize, but did you ever solve your problem. My husband is having a similiar problem with our ES300. Thanks. :) I've looked and looked can't find anything. I even ran across some information that indicates there are only two in the SC 300/92. Good luck and keep us posted. My husband ended up cleaning the sensors and all the sensors now work fine. Our problem has been narrowed down to the wiring harness between the a/f sensor and the brain. Is the sensor for sure bad or just dirty?

I have been reading this forum for days, searching and researching and learning. We are down to one code on our car, P0330, which can be (normally) 3 things: open or short in the knock sensor circuit, knock sensor looseness, ECM issues. We are almost positive the knock sensors are fine. The real test came when husband switched the bank 2 with the bank 1. Theoretically, it then would have thrown out the P0325 for Bank 1, but it didn't, so we switched it back and still got P0330. I almost got giddy when I noticed the Air Fuel fuse contacts were black in the fuse box, but it wasn't technically blown. I went and bought a replacement fuse, but within about 1/2 mile the check engine light went back on, so it more then likely wasn't the problem. Again, I don't believe the sensor itself is the problem, I believe it is the area between EC1 and the ECM. My question is...has anyone replaced this wiring harness? The only note I pulled off this forum was that it might be behind the intake manifold. I also pulled from this forum that this pigtail is about $35 - $65 and that 90% of the time with this kind of code the wiring is the problem not the sensor, which is why people will replace the sensor alone and the problem persists. Also, I do not fully have my husband convinced that the wiring *IS* the problem, he just doesn't understand WHAT would corrode these wires to render them non functional. I am pushing for him to do as the FSM states: check for an open short between the EC1 & ECM, check and possibly replace ECM (is that expensive? I haven't looked, and why would it go bad?) and the lastly, it states replace the knock sensor. As always, I appreciate if anyone has BTDT and is willing to share what and how they solved the problem.

So, I guess if checking your fuses and bulbs doesn't resolve the problem, then ramming your car into the car in front of you at a traffic light should take care of it....:chairshot: hehehe Hmmm...there is an idea! And sounds like it could be fun too!

Ours did this once before (all the bulbs were fine). I rearended someone and the problem went away, LOL. It is doing this again right now...but all the bulbs are fine. I read somewhere that the contacts can be corroded and may need some cleaning, I haven't had a chance to look at my contacts. So when you go to check the bulbs, check everything else in there too.

Glad you are okay! and sorry about your baby. I think you will be equally as pleased with a newer model.