IndyKen

Well, I didn't get your post until after I "Wire Wheeled" the calipers and hubs down to a shinny finish. Got all of the rust GONE and immediately sealed the hubs with the Rust Bullet I had left. For the calipers I'm using the Silver G2. I'll post a pic when I complete the job. Thanks again for your response. Ken

AND the rotors. I'll post a pic soon.

Bad news, 6 months later and the rust bullet product is now flaking off on the calipers :(

171.552 with draft at Talladega Superspeedway, 600HP, NASCAR BUSCH Series Chevrolet. Man O Man what a blast!!!!

I have a 2002 IS300 that I'm extremly satisfied with it's appearance except for the headlight lenses. The lenses aren't yellow but they appear to have a "chipped" type of look to them when you get close up. (Like if they were sandblasted) I'll post a closeup photo of what I'm talking about over the next couple days since it's hard to explain. Will this brasso product clear them up any further? It's just a really expensive experiment without hearing anybody elses experience first. I'm almost tempted to go to a junkyard and buy a used lense to see if it works before I try it on my ride. Many Thanks in advance, Ken

I had the same question when it came to replacing my "rear's" and did a bunch of homework too. I just put a set of 225/45/zr17 Avon 550's on the rear of my 02 IS300 and so far, so good. My only beef is that they tend to "set" a little bit later in the corners. If I did it again, I'd go with the 215/45/zr17's next. Got the best deal from Tirerack.com. Good luck

Way to call it, DCFISH!!! It worked exactly the way you described it. Thanks for the fix and saving me a couple hundred bucks!! IndyKen The noise is coming from the servo motor that moves the door for the "mode" button. This servo moves diverters to change from vent to floor, etc. - I popped the bottom panel off under the glove box. - I then removed the glove box assembly. 2 screws up high, 2 bolts down low. - With the key on engine off you can press the mode button and watch the servo move. Turn the key completely off. - Remove 3 screws and plug to take the assembly out. - Do not attempt to rotate the arm on the end of the servo. It engages w/ a worm gear. Turn it and you will break gears. - The servo is a snap together unit. Carefully take it apart w/ the arm side down.(so gears don't fall out) - inside you will see multiple whiper fingers that make contact w/ a gear. Carefully clean these w/ alcohol and a cotton swab. - Redistribute the contact grease on the whiper pad w/ a clean finger (any oil or lotions on skin will mix w/ the grease and make the copper contacts corrode. - Carefully snap unit back together. - Clean contacts on the outer part of servo also w/ alcohal. The other option is to have Lexus diagnose this for you and hit you for $160 for the part plus ~ an hour or 2 labor. So far the noise is gone and the HVAC system works properly. I will post any updates if the problem comes back. I think the problem was caused by crusty contacts in the servo that were creating a poor signal back to the computer that controls it. Now that it has a clean signal, all is well..... I hope!!! ←

My 2002 IS Sportcross has a ticking sound coming from behind the glove box when I am driving with the AC on "AUTO" once the temperature in the car has reached it's target. Sounds as if the AC can't decide to open or close a vent of some sort. Anybody have an idea on how to fix this annoying sound? Or if I am guessing right? Many Thanks in advance, Ken

INCREDIBLE PRODUCT!! I just used the Rust-Bullet product on my 2002 IS and WOW what a difference!! Now I'm looking for other places to seal under the car. Thanks for the great info on this post. Sincerely, Ken