kbconv

on my 93, I follow the 90,000 rule, sort of. Previous owner did and I was forced to have someone change mine after the water pump went out at 180,000. I had them do the tensioners and stuff but am now wondering if they did the cam seals. Being a non interference engine I wouldn't worry about going 10 or 20,000 miles over if no oil in timing belt area, I just don't care to get stuck in the middle of nowhere some night. Also, I would say there is a very slim chance of the belt wedging around a cam pulley, locking it up and hurting some valves. My dad ran his 1996 Acura RL up to 160,000 before changing his, luckily a water pump forced him to replace it. Odd thing is I think Acura list 60,000 mile replacements, maybe because it's an interference engine. (Do they build that much leeway into the int. engines schedules?)

Getting ready to do some P/S pump maintanence and if I have the time I want to do some PM on the alternator too. I have 183,000 on a 1993 LS400. I've usually just thrown brushes in alternators when they wear down but was wondering if I should throw a voltage regulator in also. I see the $50 dollar ones on the net, then there's the $140 ones from Lexus (ouch). Another option is going with a local rebuilder if I can find a decent one and I assume that will be $150-200 with seals, brushes, bearings and maybe a new voltage regulator. Any opinions? Is the voltage regulator a common failure mode for non-P/S fluid fried alternators? Thanks

Getting ready to dig into my disappearing P/S fluid problem and was wondering which I should do first. Replace the fluid before the P/S pump swap (if it needs the pump) or afterwards? Also, how much fluid do I need? I saw one tutorial saying get 7 quarts, that seems like alot. This is on a 1993 LS400. Thanks

93 LS here in Nashville, TN. Average 19 mpg on 93 octane around town, haven't done a hwy. only trip yet. I got 22 once but maybe I calculated wrong. I leave trans. switch in power mode or whatever it says. Don't know if they screw with our gas or not. I use BP and Exxon mainly. Need to find a Chevron station, I hear there Techron additive is a very good cleaning agent. I'm getting ready to switch to Mobile 1 and other synthetics for properties and to see if it makes a mileage difference.

I recently saw on a forum that our ps pumps have something attached to them that goes bad and allows ps fluid into the intake through a vacuum connection. Can't find the site now, will look later. Think it was an OZ site.

Brand new 93 here! Looking at wheel/ tire, shock and spring mods first, exhaust next.

Looking to upgrade my 93's when I replace my tires soon. Currently I am looking at the 98 big 5 spokes and the LS430's without lug cover. Any pics or suggestions. Also any lowering pics. Thanks!

My quick thought would be to lift one wheel at a time off the ground and something like a dial indicator stand out of whatever. Just something to visually check while you rotate the rim around. Of course if you have a dial indicator that is the way to go, I would guess the repair manual might even list a spec. FWIW, before I just bought my 93 it had a shimmy for 60mph on. While wheels were off for check I had them swap fronts to rear and it cleared up, even though they said balance was OK. I am looking to upgrade rims for some new tires. I will have 93 style but no chrome. John

Me too. Looking to do a salvage yard upgrade from base to Nak on a 93. I see different info on speakers and such, it looks like the sub is smaller. Is it worth around $250 or so for old Nak (whatever is different) pieces or is there a better way to go? Not looking for a blaster, just nice, clean system with some power. Thanks!

AWJ- Thanks for that info. I was wondering about the OBDI/II deal. I currently have a Kenne Bell (autorotor) supercharged Mustang, 1995, which is the last year for ODBI (EECIV) and the 5.0L pushrod engine. I had initially thought about a turbo 6 but if I can find ECU hacks I may try an Autorotor blown V8. It's a positive displacement blower so their is tons of torque down low. Mustangs pull a broad 400 lb/ft of torque on stock cam and sometimes heads also. I think it would be nice on the heavy Lexus. I don't know anything about the Toyota ECU's internals but I think I saw it is a MAF systems, which is what the Mustangs have. Is any auto better or stronger (or any strong swaps)? I have seen 400-500 mentioned as limit. I don't really care to get into the convertor and stuff yet, just want to drive for awhile. John

What about any problems like the dash lights and other items. Any particular year when certain problems were corrected? Thanks!

Looking for differences between the model years. Budget limits my purchase to 97 model year at the most, I found 98 and up differences on the Lexus website. Thanks!

Thanks!!! The search begins. :)

I'm looking for a nice SC300, around 1995, to replace my Acura Integra driver (225,000 miles). Looks like the production numbers were pretty low and even Lexus CPO only lists one. What are some good sources to find one of these sweet cars. I'm in Nashville currently but will fly out for the right one. I'm not in any hurry, just searching. Thanks, John :snoooorrrtttt: