tealboy

There are two cars, both certified from lexus, both white and if the two were side by side, you would not pick one over the other based on condition, they are both perfect. One has 33k miles but with limited lexus service history and no record of the 30k svc(may have been none lexus serviced ). The other has higher mileage (37k) but has all lexus svc records, including the 30k mile service. I would rather have the lower mileage veh but it seems simple enough, the higher mileage vehicle is a safer bet, agreed? The 161 pt inspection did not find problems with either, other than needing new car mats, tires, rear brakes on one, front on the other, etc. My other question is, I have a choice of tires, but unfortunately, a limited choice. The dealer will put either Bridgetone duelers or Kelley Safari all season tires. I'm not really familiar w/ either. What would you pick? I don't drive in snow, so quietness is more important to me. Personally, I would prob put cross terrains but that's not one of my choices. Last, any other suggestions about buying a used, but certified car? (by the way, against the grain for some, but it is awd, which I need for very light off road use). there is a 3rd option i am looking at, but i like the saleman i am working with so if the price works out, I will get one of the two above.

just curious, how many miles do you have on it?

so what. the dealership was never named and the situation was true but the information wrong, it just turned out to be another example of how this business works. I must admit, I fully expected a fee b/c every dealer in town charges one, but i have not seen them at $800, though close.

interestingly, i went to the lexus web site and the 17 inch isn't an option in any of the packages. Perhaps in certain other regions you can get 17, but it was impossible for me to "build my vehicle" using 17's. Strange.

Update: The information i rec'd was incorrect. It came from a competing dealer (the acura mdx dealer) who told me of the lexus fee. As it turns out, the lexus dealership does not have the fees mentioned above.

which size rim are you folks seeing at your local dealership? The standard tire/rim is 225/65/17 with the option of 235/55/18. I really don't like the 18's for the following reason. They are V rated, which means tread life is appx 24-30k miles vs. 50-60k miles for std all season tires. The V rated are much more expensive to replace (and as noted above, they wear quickly). Cost to replace (at a discount store) is $180-200 each vs. $130. The 18's are lower profile, meaning they handle better but the ride is slighly compromised. Though i prefer the 17's, it seems the dealer does not have (and will not receive) them as the 18's have become a "forced option" as he put it. What is your opinion on the subject and what are you seeing in your area? thx

I will find out more today, but the $800 ($795) is a pure profit add on fee. Most of our dealers in Florida have it, but this is the highest i have ever seen. It serves no purpose other than added profit. They never waive it for fear of being sued for discrimination, so it is a pre-printed fee added to the sale contract. Rather than lose a deal at the signing table, this fee can be reduced by dropping the actual purchase price rather than waiving the fee. It's really ridiculous, but they all do it, but at $800, it got my attention. I have not fully figured out the admin fee but will inquire today.

i already know what the fee is, but was wondering if others are seeing them too. It used to be dealer add on fees were $250 or so, but w/ more pressure to sell near invoice, they have raised this fee to make more money. I am not familiar w/ $800 dealer fees, plus the $250. It's essentially a add on fee for doing nothing, but it is also non-negotiable. the only way to negotiate it is to have them reduce the sale price to account for it. Depending on how good your deal is, they will either agree or not.

I was just told my local lexus dealership has a $800 dealer fee, plus another $225 administrative fee, WOW! Is this typical? What does your dealership charge? Update: Bad info, the local dealer does not charge these upfront fees. This info original came from a competing dealership, but was incorrect

anyone know how much the 2006 rx 330 is expected to increase? Also, when will they begin hitting the dealer floor? some models for lexus already have, but not the RX. thought you might know.

is there a way to tell whether the 02/03 rx 300 is awd by looking at a picture? I know i could look under the front axle and tell, but is there any characteristics on the exterior that would help me determine? so far, i have not seen any distinquishing characteristics. on my exped, i can always tell by the front hooks. If it has them, it is 4x4 if the hooks are not there, it is 4x2.

ok, thx lexi. i was a bit surprised and was afraind it was a problem w/ the specific car i was looking at, but apparently a characteristic of the RX

I am learning, mostly from you who are responding to my posts, about lexus. I have driven a few, but not many. However, the ls 400 and the gs 430 seemed to shift like butter. Very smooth, almost undetectable. However, when i test drove the 2002 rx 300 awd, the shifts were pronounced. Not bad, not necessarily a problem, but destinctly more pronounced than on the GS 300/430 i drove. is this typical of all rx suv's or would this suggest a problem? How does the 330 shift compare?

I saw a post that said something about the HID lights not being that great, and that the driver was outrunning them at higher speeds. What are your feelings about the HID lights? they are not an inexpensive option, though i like the way they look. What are the pros/cons of them and are they worth the extra money? thx

very helpful comments, thx. the diagram was great.

What maintenance needs to be done on the awd model as compared to the fwd? In other words, what more will i need to do if i buy the awd version?

interesting. I will be curious as to what others say. I was comparing it to the 300, which I drove to the dealership to drive the 330 and in that case, the 300 is without question, a smoother riding vehicle. I am a bit more sensitive to this than most, but the reason i was swayed away from the MDX was the lexus ride. After driving the 330, the difference seems less dramatic between the two. At the momment, I have a 2006 330 reserved in my name. I am friends with the owner, who is willing to sell it to me for invoice. The best deal i have seen in my area is $1500 above invoice for leftover 2005's, plus a $500 dealer fee. Now that many of the 05's are low in stock, the price has trickled back up. when my dealer told me he would give me the 05 or the 06 a vehicle at invoice, it was an easy decision, though i realize toyota is raising pricing (to save GM, lol) so the cost will go up a little. Since the ride has become more harsh, i am a little torn between the 300 vs. the 330, but i'm sure i will be ok with it. I was just disappointed the ride changed.

I recently drove the new 330 and was very disappointed w/ the ride as compared to the 300 (though most new features were appealing). I later learned this dealership orders the sport package on all vehicles, which seems to include air suspension and 18 inches wheels. Has anyone driven both the 17 and 18 inch version to determine how the ride compares? I strongly prefer the softer ride of the 300, but want the enhancements of the 330 model. Local dealership does not have 17's for me to test drive. The difference may not be material but i was hoping you may be able to tell me how you feel about the ride.

August 2005 Sludge: Jumping through hoops to make a case Some 4.7 million engines sold in the U.S. may be prone to developing sludge. Photograph by Rocky Carr A killer named sludge may live in your engine and can choke the life from your car, regardless of maintenance or mileage. And the automakers whose engines are susceptible to sludge still aren't always eager to help. Sludge often forms when oil oxidizes and breaks down after prolonged exposure to high temperatures. The baked oil turns gelatinous and can block vital oil passages, which could lead to repairs exceeding $8,000 or even an engine replacement. While sludge often results from poor upkeep, notably not changing oil at prescribed intervals, some engines from Audi, Chrysler, Saab, Toyota, and Volkswagen appear prone to it (see the chart below). The Center for Auto Safety says it has received about 1,300 sludge complaints since 2004. Toyota, the company with the most engines in question, cited 3,400 complaints through 2002 but hasn't provided an updated number since. And while about 4.7 million engines sold in the U.S. may have sludge-prone designs, the problem rate as reflected in our reliability data is very low. But that's little solace to those affected by it. The automakers initially blamed these concerns on poor care and resisted covering repair costs. However, all but Chrysler have begun replacement or repair programs, even for those who bought their vehicles used. Chrysler says it will handle sludge complaints individually. AUTOMAKERS play tough These programs put the burden of proof on the owner, however. While Toyota, Lexus, Audi, Saab, and Volkswagen have extended engine coverage to eight years from the original purchase, the deals come with fine print. Volkswagen's policy requires that customers produce all oil-change records. Saab will repair or replace its engines only after its own maintenance review, and Toyota asks for proof of at least one oil change a year. Those conditions would require attentive record-keeping for original owners, but it could cause headaches for used-vehicle owners. Even with the extended engine warranties, some consumers are denied repair compensation when they first approach the manufacturer. When Sarah Bolek's 2001 Volkswagen Passat hit 59,000 miles in 2004, the engine succumbed to sludge. The repair estimate was $9,000, says Bolek, who lives in Boyds, Md. Despite the warranty, Volkswagen originally turned down her reimbursement request. The automaker objected to two oil changes because a shop had not recorded the vehicle's mileage. Still, all the oil changes were within recommended intervals. “They kept telling me it was my fault,” Bolek says. Meanwhile the car was out of service for four months. When contacted by CR, the company said that it was investigating Bolek's claim and that it had paid for part of the repair. A week later, it picked up the balance of Bolek's bill. Clarence Ditlow, executive director of the Center for Auto Safety, says consumers must be persistent with dealers and manufacturers concerning sludge. “Too few consumers complain beyond the dealer,” he says. “Manufacturers know that every hurdle they create will make more consumers drop out.” HOW TO FIGHT SLUDGE Consumer Reports urges vehicle owners to keep thorough records of their automobile maintenance and repairs and make sure all receipts contain the date, mileage, and vehicle identification number. CR also recommends that owners of vehicles with sludge-prone engines use an American Petroleum Institute-approved synthetic motor oil or change oil according to the “extreme use” schedule in the vehicle's manual. Synthetics have a higher tolerance for extreme heat and flow better in cold temperatures. When using any oil, be sure it meets manufacturer viscosity guidelines. Changing oil on the extreme use schedule (and saving the records) provides evidence that you tried to protect the engine from sludge. Used-car buyers considering those vehicles should locate one with complete maintenance records. Engines in question Makes Engine Models and years U.S. engine population* New-engine warranty Audi/Volkswagen 1.8L 4 turbo 1997-2004 Audi A4, Volkswagen Passat 447,000 8 years/unlimited mileage Chrysler/Dodge 2.7L V-6 1998-2002 Chrysler Concorde, Chrysler Sebring, Dodge Intrepid, Dodge Stratus 797,000 None. Chrysler will handle on a case-by-case basis Lexus/Toyota 3.0L V-6 1997-2001 Lexus ES300, Toyota Camry, Toyota Avalon, Toyota Sienna; 1999-2001 Lexus RX300, Toyota Camry Solara; 2001 Toyota Highlander 1,577,000 8 years/unlimited mileage 2.2L 4 1997-2001 Toyota Camry, 1996-99 Toyota Celica,br>1999-2001 Toyota Camry Solara 1,757,000 8 years/unlimited mileage Saab 2.0L 4 turbo 2000-02 9-3 hatchback, 2000-03 9-3 convertible 82,000 8 years/unlimited mileage 2.3L 4 turbo 1999-2003 Saab 9-5, 1999 9-3 Viggen 68,000 8 years/unlimited mileage * Source: Analysis from Ward's Auto Info Bank (approximate).

What is your favorite color for the 300 and the 330? I find certain cars i like white the best and others, i think white looks terrible. Just curious as to peoples preference. I like the gold/champagne on the 300 and white on the 330, though i find almost every color looks good on the 330 (except black, which i don't like, partly b/c i live in hot florida).

Lexi, you have more cars and drive more miles than anyone i know. How do you log so many miles on a car? by the way, if you have had so much trouble w/ the AWD's, why do you keep buying them vs. the FWD? Just curious. I know you had one bad tranny, got a new one and sold it due to tranny concern, and now got another awd for your daughter.

I was surprised to learn how popular AWD is on the Rx300 and 330. Reading consumer reviews in Edmunds, the vehicle is split between awd and fwd and the figures were appx 91 responses in total (for the 330), with around 69 for the AWD version. There have been a number of negative comments about the awd version of the 300, but given it's popularity, some degree of failure would be anticipated. Of course, catastrophic problems like the tranny failure are concerning, but i still don't think it is that widespread given the number of such vehicles on the road. Did you think the AWD is that much more popular than the FWD? I guess it depends on where you live b/c in florida, the awd is not very popular, though that is the one i want.

I am struggling with spending $40k on the new 330 but have seen a few features that i really like. However, i did feel like the ride was more stiff and the engine a bit louder on the new 330 vs. the 300. For those who have either owned both, or at least driven both, how would you compare the two vehicles in terms of ride, noise, comfort or other characteristics? I can get a 2002 for $25k with 26k miles or can step up and pay $40k for a new one. $40k is really a lot for a car, in my opinion, so i favor the less expensive 300, but don't want to regret it long term. pls comments.

as you know, i have been looking for a 2002 Rx300 but have come to the conclusion that the savings is not that great. I have connections in the business and can buy a 330 at invoice, though i have not priced it exactly, it seems to be appx $32-33k. As compared to the 02 300 at $26k, I am not sure the savings are great enough to justify buying a 4 year old vehicle, getting older lines and a few less safety features. I don't yet know all the differences, nor the general concensus on the 330 vs. the 300, so i am requesting your help. any comments related to these two vehicles is appreciated. I am also looking at the mdx and now the honda pilot. They both have a stiffer ride and less fuel economy, but more room. thx, dave

i checked the tranny fluid and it seems fine. Mostly red, not perfect, but certainly not brown. Nor did it smell burnt. With 26k miles, the fluid has never been changed. I dont' really see a problem here. I would change the fluid asap after purchasing, if i go that route. I drove the mdx and though it felt like a real quality vehicle, i found the ride somewhat stiff and the seats firm. I would like to find a mid size suv that i find as nice riding and comfortable as the RX, at least for comparision. I certainly don't like spening $26k on a four year old vehicle. Especially when it looks like it should be $20k new.