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nc211

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Posts posted by nc211

  1. "Don't let some self righteous "self made millionaire" who got rich because he designed some stupid dog collar tell you otherwise either."

    A perfect example of this is Bill Gates...the richest dude in the land. For all of his wealth, the one thing he is also known for "and some celebrate him for it" is his failure. To become a college graduate. Now granted he's got enough money to start is own college with world wide campusus. But for all of his personal success, he's known for his failure. I say failure because he was on the road to his degree, and college was a very viable option for him. I just think it's funny, and in all honesty, quite sad really, that here is this guy worth billions of dollars...with only a high school diploma. I wonder if he had finished school instead of steeling from Xerox and eventually Apple, would his software had all the bugs that it does? Apple sure doesn't, nor does Xerox. Gates obvioulsy took Marketing 101 though.

    If I were Gates, in all honesty, that would bother me knowing that for all of my success, I'm also known and recognized for my failure. Even now, he still hasn't gone back and truely completed college. I'm sure he's got about a 100 "donation" degrees though!

  2. Guys, we really sort of hijacked apezam's thread here. But I've gotta chime in just one more time. A fwd car can slide in the snow...with the aide of the e-brake as army mentioned. I used to steer with my e-brake on my 87 VW GTI back in high school in Kansas...better known as a "J" turn. I think it really comes down to personal prefference, and personal comfort on which one you like best in the snow. Me? I'm not completely comfortable with my LS on slick roads like that, something about the momemtum of the car being "pushed" rather than being "pulled" like with fwd. I'm not very comfortable with the risk of the tail end coming around on me so easily. But, the couple of times it's been in the snow with me, it did fine, and on normal Mich tires. The best snow buggie I've ever driven however was my 99 Subaru Outback. I remember back in 2000 down in Wilmington we got 8 inches of snow. That car was increadible! You could NOT make it spin sideways, I don't care how hard you tried either, it just wouldn't, and it wouldn't get stuck at all. But beside the point. FWD or RWD, both will plow if not driven correctly, both can slide "one with the gas pedal, one with the e-brake" and BOTH can get stuck. For Apezam's original question, I hope we've answered what you need "snow tires". I would have some chains in the trunk though, just in case, and some sand bags too for a couple reasons. 1) give you more weight back there and 2) if you do get stuck, you can sacrafice one of the bags of sand, throw it on the snow and help you get a little bit better traction.

    fwd or rwd...it's all in the hands of the driver. Me personally? I agree with Army in that fwd is better for snow. Simply because of the "pull" factor and reduced risk of fishtailing into someone else. Knowing my luck, it would probably be Raz's new Mercedes!

    NC211, signing off on this topic. B)

  3. Is the noise a banging noise, like metal on metal? I'm wondering if the steering rack gromments "bushings" are bad? Don't worry...not expensive at all! And no real labor involved in replacing them. Do this: Turn the wheel all the way to the left and turn off the car. Take a flash light and look behind the front passenger side wheel into the steering rack. You should beable to see them easily. You'll see the rack "tube" sitting there. On the end(s) of the rack there are U shaped brackets that hold down the rack. Those brackets are insulated with a rubber bushing. They're like $17 bucks each and you only need two, one for each side.

    www.lexuspartsonline.com in the collision catelog. They're #2 in the picture below.

    post-15797-1133469931_thumb.jpg

  4. Morg, ok, got a game plan now. The brakes do not need to be bled. I replaced all of my rotors and pads myself, and didn't have to bleed anything "except for my knuckles". I recommend when you're changing them to have a few cans of brake cleaner spray on hand to clean up the piston and pad housing. Oh...hand use some rubber gloves too, I learned that the hardway and cost me a trip to the dermatologist. DON'T OVER TORQUE the little screw that holds the rotor in place, you'll see it when you're in there. There's only one, and the threads will strip faster than Anna Nicole Smith for $50! Take it nice and slow on those. If you do strip them, the dealership should have plenty for you to buy at like $1 a piece. MAKE SURE you remove the shims on the back of the old pads, clean them, and put them back on the new ones. The tech manual says to just push the piston back when sliding onto the rotor. If you need a pdf on the process, let me know and I'll post it up.

    Motor mounts: Depends on your tools and ability. The driver's side is a serious pia! I paid my local indi to do those because I couldn't handle it myself. Cost like $80. The tranny mount is cake, and there's a recent thread on here about it.

    EGR: Mechanic.

    Fuel Filter: make sure tank is pretty close to empty for safe keeping sake, and have some fuel in a container on the side just incase it all drains out of the tank by accident. I've heard it's an easy but messy job.

    Mich tires: I haven't a clue. I've got mvx4's, they've been good so far. I've got about 8,000 miles left of tread and have some problems with two of them.

  5. Guys...I've got the undisputable answer to this question.... Move south! Hey, the weather is here, wish you were beautiful!

    Lexusfreak....Mobile 1 full synthetic is number 1...I'm right...you're wrong! :P Hahahaa. JUST PLAYIN'!! ;) God, we don't need that conversation...again.

  6. Hey Army, don't let math in general scare you off from engineering. Math was and still is my worst subject, yet I learned to adapt to my skill set and now work with numbers everyday as a commercial loan officer. Infact, I'm soo bad with math that I can barely take the GMAT for grad school because they don't let you have a calculator. You ask me to do math the old fashion way with pencil and paper, and 2+2 = 5. Give me a calculator and I'll give you exact numbers right down to a fraction of a penny, and interest spread over any amount of time. It's not HOW you come up with the answer, it's about getting to the answer in general. Also, math in general is a broad stroke. What typically happens is that you end up using just a few specific methods over and over again that pertain to your line of work, which you learn to master. Engineers usually make a very nice living, and enjoy a nice quality of life "9-5, m-f". Criminal Justice is cool too, but being in law enforcement "if that is your goal" has strange and long hours, not to mention the potential for someone to hold a life long grudge against you for busting them. My future father-in-law is a retired 30 year SBI agent, and he lives out in the country with private phone listing and a p/o box for that simple reason. Oh, and not to mention more weapons than I care to mention. I know his line of work put a lot of stress on his marriage over the years and so forth. Very exciting work indeed, and rewarding, but can be very tough, not only on you, but those around you too at times. Talk about a nervous day...try asking a man like that for his blessing to marry is daughter! Now he investigates and busts crooked lawyers and politicians. I APPLAUD your desire to further advance yourself through education! It's the best tool you'll ever have in your toolbox for life! In your situation being in the military, I have no doubt that you have the self discipline to handle the online education route! For some "me included" it can be tough to force yourself to study and soforth...especially when the Victoria Secrets modelling show :o is on TV the night before your exam! Exam...what exam? Freakin' Giesell is on TV wigglin' around in her underwear for crying out loud! Get me a beer and Tivo this thing for tomorrow night too!

    See....lack of self discipline. If I were in the Army, no doubt I'd have to scrub every toilet with a tooth brush from Ft. Drum to Ft. Bragg...twice!

  7. Ahh, ok I understand now. I was lost in the previous post and was frustrated. I was like "wait...what? oh, ok....no wait, what?" I got it now ;) Thanks!

    PS, that is Arnold isn't it in your avatar?

    Man, I can't figure out what in the hell you're trying to say?? I mean no harm, and I'm not picking at you either, but I'm totally lost on your posts?? It's quite possible that I've been hangin' with the Govenator too much, but you've lost me amigo???? 

    For me or the other guy?

    Well it is very easy to understand..

    1) If me, using OEM means nothing nor does it mean it is better etc.

    2) Showing me a slip from a 4-banger engine (from 1992) from inspections also means nothing.

    3) the cheaper ones last short in time length but look at the price delta

    4) Waited for data (real) that supports monarch post that OEM is better then other non-OEM

    5) Then again people get lucky (aka ....find a nut at times)

    6) My Toyota sludge years do not last that long in EGR etc (proven fact; do a search on this forum for this common issue)

    7) Not all Toyota product are like his. So his is not how they all are; all car makers have issues.

    8) Since I have been driving every car sensor (02) has not been touched for 100K. And these are with non Toyota sensors...WHOA!

    This debate from Monarch is about as good as his you need to you all OEM fluids, Toyota engineers are the best in the galaxy and the world famous pictures of everything and anything (from used oil housings to bricks).

    Can you understand this one better

  8. Sam, I respectfully agree with your disagree :cheers: . I feel the need to note that I am not a snow-bird in any manner. NC does not get that much snow very often, infact the eastern part of the state actually closes down on a 20% prediction of snow! Infact, anyone who is on here from my neck of the woods will probably agree that snow down here is actually an event that we "good ole' boys" celebrate in true southern fashion.......donuts in the intersections and some Dukes of Hazzard style driving. So I am not the best to comment. I agree about the AWD marketing too. We had one day of snow here last year, and they freakin' sold out of Subaru Outbacks because of it! One freakin' day!!! My LS actually did pretty well. We get more ice than snow, and well, nothing can help you on sheer ice, except steel studs.

    nc211,

      I must respectfully disagree with you. I've been driving Rear Wheel Drive cars for over 35 years in places like Scotland, Buffalo, and now Boston. A RWD car fitted with snow tires will do the job, and rather well. I am bemused with sudden onslaught of AWD marketing. They make it sound as if you'll be stuck in your home if winter strikes..Much like a Pilot makes the Airplane, a Driver makes the car. If the driver is poor (As many are in my home city) all the technology and AWD are not going to help you. Keep in mind the majority of Taxis and Police cars are still Ford Crown Victorias. These are all RWD and probably lack the sophisticated tech that our Lexus cars have.

    I have all the confidence in the world in the winter performance of my 92 LS400 and my new LS430 Provided they are fitted with the proper snow tires!

    Sam

    Dude, buy this, buy that. Snow tires are snow tires, and you obviously need some. So, go buy some. There is not the "A-Team" version of tires. I like tires that these ole' boys would burn me down for "Continential". You've got a rear wheel drive car, in of all places N. Mich. So, eitherway you look at it, you're screwed! A LS400 isn't a Subaru. So go buy a pair of knobbies, and have a pair of chains in the trunk just in case, and motor on amigo. :cheers:  Will you get stuck? YES! Is it because of the tires? NO. It's because it's a rear wheel drive car. A 1991 BMW 318 will do the same thing. My only advice to you is to make sure you put it in N when sitting at a stop light, so the motor torque won't introduce you to the bumper in front of you. ;)

  9. J, ringworm is a very common problem. In fact, my whole house, including me and my fiance, were infected with it this time last year because of Lili, the stray kitten we adopted outside of the office. It takes persistence, but can be done. I'm betting your d/o has given you a pill, and some kind of cream. DON'T drink alcohol on that pill, trust me. Talk about putting a tattoo on you liver. Geezz. take the pill for whatever he says "10 days?", keep the lotion close, and you'll be good to go......oh, WASH EVERYTHING!. I'm talkin' your socks, hat, toiletpaper, etc.... you get the point. The best $150 you'll ever spend is on one of those home steam cleaners. I've got one "brissle", and it's the best thing ever. If you got it from a pet that lives in your space, then hit the floor with that cleaner.

  10. I've got a feeling that razahyde knows what he's doing. Raz, um.....you a fan of accelerated depreciation? S, C, LLC??? <_<

    edit: I agree with Army...I'd probably wreck the car while playing with all of those buttons :unsure: .....but they sure do look cool! :D

  11. Man, I can't figure out what in the hell you're trying to say?? I mean no harm, and I'm not picking at you either, but I'm totally lost on your posts?? It's quite possible that I've been hangin' with the Govenator too much, but you've lost me amigo????

    Genuine Toyota (Denso) oxygen sensors are so effective and durable, they have protected the life of my '92 Toyota catalytic converter and EGR valve and related components for 467,000 miles and counting.

    Here are the passing smog test results I got when my '92 Toyota had 451,000 miles still equipped with it's factory original catalytic converter and EGR valve: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/smog92.jpg

    During those 451,000 miles I replace the pre-cat oxygen sensor only twice and the post cat sensor only once using genuine Toyota (Denso) sensors purchased for about $105 each from 1sttoyotaparts.com

    Now if you visit the Walker oxygen sensor website and other aftermarket brands you'll see they

    suggest replacing their oxygen sensors every 30,000 - 50,000 miles to protect the life of the catalytic converter =  about only 1/3rd the life of a genuine Toyota (Denso) sensor.

    Even a squirrel can find a nut. Too bad all your wonderful Toyota’s (most times with newer models then a 1992 4 cy) will not even hold up to that duration. Never mind an upcoming 14-year old auto. Too bad my Lexus (CPO) does not hold up like these (at least for the sludge years with EGR issues). You know the years your beloved Toyota Enginneers screwed up!

    I do not buy walker, only Bosh for 02 and they last 2 to 3 times longer that what you posted on. Why do you post on the sensor that is the least??? Is that the norm?

    Then again I am still waiting on data to support your “effective and durable”. Compared to what. Show me a trade study.

    Yup, 1/3 the life as you posted; but they are like 1/3 the price too. Plus I have never EVER replaced an 02 sensor before 100K no matter the manufacture. That has been since I have been driving too!

    Again, you have yet to provide any real data from tests; OEM vs non OEM. And I have to take your word on this forum for every stating that you replaced this and that. I had a Toyota before my Lexus and again it was not that great of a car by any means. I would show you the repair slips but for what? You think Toyota is great when it was worse them my last American car. Again all manufacures have issues; it is part of human design. They will never EVER get it perfect,they can't.

    To close, you are trying to compare a 14 year old truck with a 4-banger to boot in the LS section??? Hell my bike with no smog crap can do that. I find nothing even factual from another famous monarch picture.

  12. Dude, buy this, buy that. Snow tires are snow tires, and you obviously need some. So, go buy some. There is not the "A-Team" version of tires. I like tires that these ole' boys would burn me down for "Continential". You've got a rear wheel drive car, in of all places N. Mich. So, eitherway you look at it, you're screwed! A LS400 isn't a Subaru. So go buy a pair of knobbies, and have a pair of chains in the trunk just in case, and motor on amigo. :cheers: Will you get stuck? YES! Is it because of the tires? NO. It's because it's a rear wheel drive car. A 1991 BMW 318 will do the same thing. My only advice to you is to make sure you put it in N when sitting at a stop light, so the motor torque won't introduce you to the bumper in front of you. ;)

  13. I probably missed that thread, but how do you test your O2 sensors?

    Do you actually know about things you post on????

    The possibility exists that the user could select the wrong base sensor

    by assuming that all sensors with the same wire count are equal.  All

    Oxygen Sensors are not created equally.  Each type is matched to the

    make, model and sub-model application and cannot be mixed

    So now if you buy oem you are 100% guaranteed you will get the correct part??? I think not. Also, most times the parts number on the car does not match newer OEM sensor. Nor is the new part the same as the old. If they “up-reved” the part, something changed. It is not the same.

    It is  impractical to offer a universal sensor for many applications due to

    heater types, ground types and other characteristics.  Improper

    selection of the universal sensor could result in serious damage to the

    engine management system, including failure of the engine control unit

    (ECU) and/or the catalytic converter.

    Sound like I am talking to a sales guy here. Just like Lexus reccomends this and that to make them $$$$.

    I have used non EOM sensors/parts for years and never had an issues. My wifes old car has over 180K miles on it (friend bought it) and it is on non OEM sensor 1. In fact I had to install slotted and drilled rotors on my car since the OEM parts are a joke. Just some FYI that not all OEM = wonderful product.

    But.....

    All people have to do is take 5 minutes and check the sensors. Not to hard. Mine are doing just fine; and, I test before I buy. Cheaper too.

    Please show me ( test data etc) where OEM is better in vibration, thermal, electrical, structural, longevity them non OEM? Why is it I always find you posting website data then your own.

  14. DC, call Johnson Lexus of Raleigh at 919-877-1800 "or check lexus.com for dealership location / number under the 27609 zip code". I remember they had this option for sale in the parts department about a year ago. Talk to the parts dept. and ask them about it as I'm sure they still have the information. They had the wood wheel and shift knob in a display case titled "upgrade your older LS400 with the wood steering wheel and shifter".

  15. Gene, when you pull the e-brake release handle, use your foot to assist in the pull back on the brake lever. My 95 has a worn out spring that pulls the brake pedal back as well, this fixes it cheaply. Not sure about that noise, have you had your tranny mount and engine mounts checked?

  16. Is there such a thing as a no-finance 0% APR fiance'/wife? If so, how do I apply? Hahahaa. Oh if there are women on here that take offense to this comment, I'm only playin' ;) . I'm 32 years old, and all I want for christmas is a gas powered remote controlled helicopter. I've been asking for one for 20 years. So take that into consideration as an indication of my maturity level before calling me out. :ph34r:

  17. Oh, and I forgot, I ran out of niccorette gum about 2 hours ago :angry: , so I'm just a bit on the touchy side of my temper at the moment. Good thing my day is winding down and I can go home, otherwise I might just grab my red stapler, those traveler checks, and burn this sucker down to the ground!

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