nc211

I have never done this, but am curious about doing it. Do you really notice a big difference after you clean it in the car's performance?

HAHAHAA That is too funny! Why didn't they just push him forward so he could reposition himself on the driveway to back out? My lord...now that takes the Darwin Award.

Hahaha!! Ralph...man you gotta admit...that's a good one!! Man I tried to play one of those files and it locked up my computer. One of the few times I've had to hit the power reset button. But I saw the first few seconds...and I can tell it looks funny! Hope it's posted up in the morning.

Cleanup on aisle 3~~ :D

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Yeah man, it's damn near impossible to let a LS400 go, even when it's old. They just run and run and run and run. My payment is $200 and change, and I couldn't be happier. I thought about buying it outright, but got my loan at work, with a 1.5% discount on normal rate. So I figured I'd work on another debt issue, start saving up for that rainy day and invest the rest of the money in an interest baring account. When it all comes out at the bottom of the equation, I'm actually EARNING just a tic' over 1.35% interest on my car loan. Go figure that one huh? Hahahaa!!

You just can't beat having two of the world's best engines "Toyota 2.0 liter 4 banger" tied together and working in harmony. Just can't walk away from it. These cars actually become a badge of honor to show off, like yours to your friends. I get a kick out of people who own new cars, ride in mine, and are amazed that it's going into it's 11th year, with over 100k miles....and it's just now getting to the point of being broken in. When most cars are coming to the end, ours are coming into their stride!

Luxury1, great post! I have a 95 with 109k miles. It is my intention and plan to keep mine until the thing blows up. Even when it's fully paid off, I plan on keeping it for my daily driver / commuter and then buy a newer car for my long drive cruiser, and it will probably be the LS430. The increadible thing about these cars, is that they do not get louder, rougher or looser with age. They maintain their composure for years, if not decades. The LS400 is by far the best used car you can buy.

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Man nc, you said it. I let a couple of people drive my car for a test and they are ready to trade their cars already. They were like, this is a 98. Are you sure. I'm like yeah, I purchased it didn't I. The other guy was like, it rides like it's brand new doesn't it, he was like yes. He's ready to trade in his Solara, the other guy wants to keep his Acura TL but get an LS. I don't blame him. His TL is a very nice vehicle that I like also. The cabin just isn't as quiet, but I still like it. I'm with you nc211. I want to pay mine off and add a 2001 LS430 beside the 400. Financing charges are the only thing that keep me from getting it sooner. If I could get a 6 or 7 percent rate, I'd be in business. Payment is now 490.00, I pay 600. So should be finished in the next 2 years. Price shouldn't be too high by then.

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Yeah man, don't go buy a new one if you haven't had your existing one cleaned yet. You just might find your existing one is so dirty, but still fine, that all it needs is a bath. You have to take it off anyway if you are going to replace it with a new one...might as well just clean it for $10 bucks in cleaner and see what happens, instead of coughing up a few C' notes for a new one. I'm thinking if you're getting the light, then it's probably something else down the line that's causing your problem instead of a dirty throttle body. How about your air intake sensor, or throttle sensor? I think those "especially the throttle sensor" would be a more likely canidate. I know on my 95' with 109k my throttle sensor was replaced by the previous owner at the dealer right around 70k miles. As far as I know, the throttle body itself has never been touched, and I've never had the engine light come on....of course now that I've said that...oh crap...here it comes.

God, Santa, please let me get the new tires first and a week of enjoyment before you smack me with the O2 sensors or something like that.

I can't recall where I heard it from, maybe back in the day on that other lexus forum?? I just remember hearing that some people had problems with squeeking due to poor lubrication and cold air. I can't argue the price benefits at all! Even with Army's help last spring, I was still out $1,600+ for all of my new control arms and such. Hell of a lot better than retail thought, at roughly $3,900!! Ouch!! Vlomous bushings over in Australia are supposedly awesome too, but I don't think Andrew has made the gen 2's yet. I would be very interested to read other's opinions who have used the Diazen's in thier cars for a year or so. I too am curious about how they do. Hey blake, gonna send you a pm...

He have insurance? If so, DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING from his insurance company without legal consultation on your behalf first. Glad to hear she's doing OK! I had a similar but not as severe accident back in 97, guy came over into my lane and fed me his old Chevy work truck. Those airbags burn the skin too. Even to this day I deal with that accident in my neck and back. I've got a bone spur on the 4th vertebre in my neck that will have to be dealt with at some point in my life. I signed away my ability to sue because I was young and unaware.

Damn

Glad to see you're ok (well, good enough to tell us about the accident  )

Is it totaled?

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yes its totaled. I was not driving the car my fiance was driving and the guy that hit her didnt have his lights on so she never saw him coming. She has two broken ribs a bruised sternham (hope i spelled that right ) and a punchured lung but she is recovering and everything is coming along well

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Document Document Document EVERYTHING. Make a list of labor that you had to do, and how long it took. Notify Pep Boys Corporate, tell them the store location that did it, the time you were there, and the cost "proven by your receipt, or if you lost it, pull your bank records and find the posting to that store from your account". Tell them what they did, and that you feel it was so badly messed up that you feel it was almost intentional. Tell them that you INSIST on your local LEXUS DEALERSHIP to review their work and fix anything that was damaged do to their poor, and even intentional, performance. They will most likely ask to you take the car to your nearest Pep Boys shop so they can look at it. Tell them that is ok with you, however you will not allow them to perform any work on the vehicle, and you will not leave it unattended at any point.

don't know if you remember my Wal-Mart problem last July with the lower oil pan threads being stripped out or not, but Wal-Mart agreed to pay half of the DEALERSHIP bill with me "$300 a piece". I said this was fair simply because the car is 10 years old with 100k miles on it, so I seriously doubt they were fully to blame. However, the previous oil change prior to the incident was done at WalMart, and it was NOT noted on the receipt of the pending thread failure of the pan. So, for $300 I got a new lower oil pan, seal, M1 oil change "twice" and labor from the dealership. Not too bad if you ask me.

I had a brand new P/S Pump fail on my when driving though the Mohave.  The only place I could find to work on the car was a Pep Boys.

I paid them to replace the pump, and replace the belt.  I also told them to let me know if anything eles needed attention.

Got the car back in 3 days.  Drove straight home with it.

On getting home found out :

Car was blowing smoke on start up (never did this before).

P/S system now had a mix of P/S fluid and DEXIII. (they toped of with P/S fluid).

One vacum line from P/S Pump going to conector on Air Intake was pluged, and fitting was broken off Intake houseing.

The othe vacum line was conected.  But hoses at the air valve were cross conected.

Air Valve was damadged and fluid ws getting sucked up the crossed conected vacum line.

I need to replace the air intake due to the broken fiting cost about $230.00 (dealer item).  I made a temp. fix with some hose and JB weld.

I have flushed and refilled the P/S system with DexIII

I have disconected both vacum lines from the P/S system and need to replace the valve.  About $80.00 for the part and 1 hour of time.

I had to completly clean the air intake system and throutail body, along with the mass Air Flow Sensor, to get the Power Steering fluid out of the intake system.  I also used B12 Chem Tool in the gas tank and used engine vacum to chem tool the manafold.

Now the car no longer smokes at stat up.  There was a good amount of P/S fluid all over the intake system. 

Now I need to tell Pep Boys what I want from them.  I'm not happy.  What would you guys expect from Pep Boys?

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That depends on what year your car is. Some Diazen bushings are only meant for the first generation models. Me personally, I think the characteristic of a Lexus LS400 is all in the rubber bushings of the suspension components, as they absorb the bumps and noises a lot better than hard plastic. But you pay for that too, big time over what Diazen's costs. I've heard they squeek too, and make the ride harsher, more of a sports car feel than cruiser sedan.

Daizen has bushings for first generation LS front suspension arms and I wonder how good they are in the long terms.  Some reported that those bushings are a bit too stiff and would squeak with age.  What are your thoughts?

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I'm not sure about the pressure relief valve on the steering system, I've never heard of one on this car. Tex, do you have a digital camera? post up some pics of what is leaking and let us take a look. If it's on the driver's side, towards the rear, then it makes me think rack n' pinion related. You should beable to check the fluid level with the measuring stick on the underside of the power steering cap. You can check it hot, or cold. If you're over filled, just get a turkey baster and pull some out.

I have no comment on lubricating your sister-in-law....Hahahaha! Glad the belt dressing worked!

nc211,

Put in some Belt Dressing and the whining is gone, so you were right, lubricate and the whining will stop. Hell, It may even work with the sister in law!

I got a question though, I think I put in excess Steering fluid, will the system just dump it? Lots of pressure-controlled systems have what is called "pressure relief valve" I really hope this one does too. If not then I just busted a gasket or a hose somewhere in the system, since I saw a leak in the rear engine on the driver side, and it definetly was steering fluid.

Tex

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Mike, you are correct about the strut mounts....The LS has the same problem "well, at a 100k miles, I use the word Problem loosely". The clunk is most likely your strut rod bushings. I would start there, and check out www.lexuspartsonline.com for good prices. You might also look at the shock bumper(s) too at the top of the shock. I've replaced all control arms on my car, and I too get a little "Crunch" noise still when it's cold outside...because I forgot to replace those shock bumpers....and it's such a pain to get to them.

By the way....Welcome aboard amigo!

First, I'd like to thank all those previous posters that have saved me so much time and money over the last several months!

We just purchased a 1997 LS with just over 100k miles.  It's in great shape, but the front end "clunks" pretty good over rough roads or pot-holes, etc.  I've dealt with several Camry's in the past and found a problem with their strut mounts or strut towers, (whatever you want to call it).  Is this an issue with the LS or do I need to be looking somewhere else?  Please advise.

Also, it has the Nakamichi sound system.  At low volume it sounds fine, but when turned up it begins to sound like an old record with a scratch in it!  Speakers cut out and it sounds awful.  I've noticed that it seems related with the level of bass chosen on the stereo.  Are we talking an amplifier or head unit issue?

Thanks for your replies and take care.

Mike

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I hear ya' And I do agree. I use to have a 1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R that was by far the most perfect little screamin' deamon I've ever owned. Infact, that was the reason why I had my last car "01' Maxima SE"....but was not impressed with it enough to buy out the lease at the end of the term. Yeah, I think GM got Saab in the late 80's or early 90's? They do have some cool looking seats in some of their cars! Like space-ship style seats. I'd like to drive one actually. I think now Subaru is connected to Saab as well, as you can see the design similarities in the small 9-3? hatchback.

A lot of SAAB opinions, in spite of the brand's minor role in US... :)

That was however not my point. My point is, that som brands (even SAAB... :) ) build cars with MATERIAL (if not drive) quality that exceeds Lexus and BMW and MB, without charging a leg and an arm for it. My uncle has a -92 Mitsubishi Lancer (Golf sized japanese) with approx 100 000 miles on it. Had it since new - car still looks very good. That car is certainly built to a price, but it just keeps giving trouble free service, year after year.

BTW, SAAB was totally independent until GM bought it in -89 (?).

A few years later FORD bought Volvo's car division.

/Alexander

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On the 95-97 models "and maybe 98-00" it is exactly 2 quarts that comes out. I double checked the manual and called the dealership to make sure "I didn't want to screw up the tranny..God that would suck". It is 2 quarts exactly "supposed to be anyway." If you're low on fluid, then it won't be the 2 quarts. But once you refill, then you're back to even. I actually buy mine at the Lexus dealership for some outrageous price of $8 a quart. But, I think you can get it at the toyota dealership for a lot cheaper. It actually says "Toyota" on the bottle and not "Lexus", so I would have to believe you can get it at a Toyota dealer for cheaper.

You should also buy a new O-ring for the bolt too, what's an extra buck or two for the security of no leaks?

I just have a problem with shelling out money for a car that has a name that resembles an emotion that I hope I never have.....Sob...Saab :(

But...I sure would like to abuse the snot out of one...especially the turbo!! Just as long as I could hand back the keys to the owner and have them sign a waiver to release me from all liability.

Not to be a smartas* or anything, but can your father have a whisper conversation at 80 mph in his Saab, like you can in a Lexus LS400 with 250k miles? Maybe they make Saab's better for their home country, but over here, well, they're OK. I've met many people who have cursed that convaluted ignition system at the tune of big bucks. However, it would be unfair of me to make these comments without acknowledging the fact that I have also met several people who LOVE their Saab's and have owned many models. I have also met several Volvo finatics too. But they spend more on repairs than I do on my mortgage. Me? I'm into super quiet interiors with no exhaust/engine and minimal wind noise myself. I've never experienced that in a Saab, especially one with a 6 digit odometer.

Very common problem!! Here is one Tech Service Bulletin "TSB" on the issue. I think there might be a couple more. I'll check.

17.pdf

I would be curious to see what they would think after 30k/50k/75k on those engines. I bet I can guess who would be at the top of that list then! Obviously they don't take into consideration the "outside" components like alternator, pumps and so-forth.

I won't speak on behalf of Army, but I would guess due to his regiment "Mountain" that Afghanastan would be my guess. ArmyofOne gonna' get the bad som'b*tch himself! Probably run his as* over with some turbo humvee, with a pair of 12' subs bumpin in the back! ;)

Tex, I have a 95' also. Mine did this too "a little birdie chirp" when warming up. Mine was the belt itself. I put a little belt dressing on it, and it stopped, and hasn't returned.

(Not the wife!)

Tex, sounds like it's in your drive belt somewhere, I'd start with the WD-40 and go from there too. My bet is your idler pulley. Any symptoms making you think alterntor going bad? Dimming lights, dead battery "or draining" etc....? Power steering feel ok? Power steering fluid ok? See any leak stains on the driveway? If no...then I'm betting idler pulley, or Sister-In-Law since it's not your wife.

edit: Are you running your a/c at start-up? If so, turn it off and see if it stops.

Fluid....have you drained and filled it? You've got to stay on top of the tranny fluid at your mileage. You might not believe this "i didn't at first" but the fluid makes all the difference in the world on these cars! You have three options. One is to go to the dealership and have them powerflush it to get everything out. $100 bucks or so. Two is to search on here about tranny fluids and learn how to do it your self "www.lexls.com" is a great site! Three, this is the simplest thing to do on the car. Do a drain and fill only. Under the car, look for the tranny pan...you should see a lonley bolt. It will drain 2 quarts. Tranny holds more, but drain and fill will only take out two by design. Drain the 2 quarts, put plug back in, and fill back with TOYOTA TOYOTA TOYOTA FLUID. You can buy the fluid in 1 quart bottles at the dealership for a few bucks. Do this, drive it for a week and then do it again...and again...and again, until the old fluid that is draining out of the pan is the same "BRIGHT RED" color as the new fluid. By doing the drain and fill method, you are not putting stress on the seals "power flush does this", you are also measuring to make sure you're not over filling / under filling. 2 quarts out....2 quarts in. I bet you will be amazed at what your tranny fluid looks like when you drain it. Mine was BLACK at 25k miles of usage. Now, after three drain and fills...she's bright red and smooooooth as a baby's butt.

My 1991 (145,000mi) is starting to slip/jerk at around 45mph, overdrive on.  If I increase or decrease speed, this problem goes away.  I dont experience this at any other speeds and it happens when the car is both warm and cold.  All other shifting is fine.

In talking to a mechanic, he suggested driving it for a day or two with the overdrive off.  If the problem goes away, it is the torque converter.  If the problem continues, it is the transmission. 

Does this sound like a good way to diagnose?  Would the conclusion be correct?

Only 145K doesnt seem right for an LS400 driveline, are there any other suggestions as to what the problem might be?  Anyone experience something similar?

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In my last car, 2001 Maxima, on those cold morning the CD player would not read the disc either. when I ejected the CD, I noticed a small later of fog on it. I simply cleaned the CD, put it back in, and it played fine. Maybe it's the condensation on the disc???

I also have the Pioneer 6 Disc in my 93 LS - I have noticed this issue arises when it cold outside.  During warmer days, I never see ERR

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Luxury1, great post! I have a 95 with 109k miles. It is my intention and plan to keep mine until the thing blows up. Even when it's fully paid off, I plan on keeping it for my daily driver / commuter and then buy a newer car for my long drive cruiser, and it will probably be the LS430. The increadible thing about these cars, is that they do not get louder, rougher or looser with age. They maintain their composure for years, if not decades. The LS400 is by far the best used car you can buy.

It's the upper bushings in the struts. Those are the only ones I didn't replace "I'm an idiot" when doing all the control arms.

hey nc211, what kind of tires are you gonna get?

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I bet that noise is coming from your lower control arms and I would bet it is the bushings. Check your shock as well. My lower control arm bushings on my 1992 SC400 got really bad and I installed new Supra lower control arms in at $400. Put them in myself alligned the tires, and it rides straight, smoothe and responsive. The daisen bushings suck!!!!

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I want another pair of Michelin's, but the budget just won't allow it at this time. So I think I'm going to go with a pair of Continental ContiPremierContact at $87 a tire. They seem to have great reviews on tirerack with great warranty numbers.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...re1=yes&place=1

hey nc211, what kind of tires are you gonna get?

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