buckmeister2

Something does not sound right in your situation. These trannys have a "manual mode", but are not actual paddle-shift trannies. In other words, you can operate the shift manually, but the computer will prevent you from doing anything dangerous, or damaging to the transmission. Example: If you are traveling in 4th gear and come to a stop, the computer should not allow you to pull away in 4th gear. Likewise, if you are doing 70MPH, and decided to manually shift to 1st or 2nd, the computer will not let you do that. If the former is what is happening, I would have the dealer check it out.

Pappy is right about getting the warranty from Lexus. You don't want to have to deal with both the dealer and the warranty company if you need a repair. However....I am not a fan of warranties on dependable vehicles used in sensible driving conditions. But, if you want the peace of mind, get the warranty from Lexus.

I have a 2013 RX 350 with BU camera, and it is pretty pathetic. I recently had to rent a vehicle, and got a 2015 Kia Sol with a BU camera that was incredible. Not sure why the vaunted Lexus has such a lousy BU camera, but there are lots of people who complain about it. It can be replaced with an aftermarket unit, though I have not done so, and don't know what source to access.

That is not alarming. It is an exhaust flange, subject to surface rust literally within months of production. Yes, I would have the dealer take a look at it and see what they say. If they do not feel it is a problem, you can take care of it yourself. Take a wire brush and brush off as much of the rust as you can. Cover with one coat of gray Rust-O-Leum spray primer. If the color matches close enough to your satisfaction, spray a second coat. If it does not, buy a can of ROL rust-proof enamel in the right color, and spray a final coat with that. There are a few underside parts that will discolor from surface rust, and do so faster if you are in the snow belt. They can all be treated as described above if you wish to avoid further rust of that part.

It is quite a stretch to accuse a dealership of damaging your vehicle, then noting something on the repair order to back themselves up. It would not be uncommon for a 6-year-old vehicle, even a Lexus, to start to weep at the pan gasket. It may never develop into a leak...pan gaskets in some vehicle weep, but never drip, or only have a single drip when the fluid gets very warm, which would be while on the road. My bet is that they believe the gasket is partially saturated, and may develop into a leak. I would check the garage floor occasionally, but would certainly not obsess over it.

I would imagine the manual and the gas door would be the same...possibly yours is a year that premium is recommended? The 2015 does not have that recommendation for the 350.

And....there is nothing wrong with the fuel you are using. Whether it is Sam's Club, ARCO, Chevron, there is virtually no diff at all between quality of fuels, though there is a diff in the octane, which is stated on the pump. The only real quality issue for fuel is if you fill up at a station well out of the beaten path, and the fuel is very aged, or at the bottom of the tank being sucked through a poor filtering system. There is a gas station in the middle of highway 95 here in NV that I have never once seen a customer gassing up at...I would hesitate to put that in my car. Jim

Have you tried craigslist.com? That is where I go for all used auto parts. You can save a ton of money by finding out what other make wheels interchange with yours. If you are using for winter, they are going to likely get beat up a bit, anyway, so why not use a cheaper, but good quality wheel? Check out this interchange chart for your car....http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp?Makes=LEXUS&Models=RX+350+FWD%2C+RWD#axzz2ccP0kgEF Look at the bottom of the page, and you will see literally hundreds of vehicles that use the same wheel as yours. Or, just go to your browser and type in, "wheel interchange chart" Good luck! Jim

Synthetic is fine in any gas motor made. It is cleaner than dino oil, and lasts 2-3x longer. You will actually save money in the long run due to longer change intervals. I change my oil, then 5K later, change the filter only and top off, then 5K later, change both, and start the cycle again. In theory, you should pick up an extra .10 mpg, or so. Twice, I have send 10,000 mile synthetic oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis, with amazing results. Been using Mobil 1 for 25 years, in 1955 to 2009 American V8's, motorcycles, lawnmowers, gas tractors, etc. Jim buckmeister2