jetfixer01

Sounds like you are losing fuel pressure. Try turning the key on for about 5 seconds then off without going to the start position. Do this a couple of times, then see if it starts right up. When you first turn the key on, the fuel pump starts running. If the system is not keeping pressure when it's off, it will take a bit of time to build that pressure up. If you go to start immediately, it might not run. You can prove if this is what is happening by turning the key on and off a couple of times to let the pump build pressure. The pump will not keep running for more than a few seconds if it does not detect a start. That's why you have to cycle the key a couple of times to build pressure.

If you have the original key code for the vehicle, and you can get the key to turn to the acc position, you can replace the cylinder yourself without too much trouble. By having the original key code, you can get a new cylinder that will work with your existing key, so you don't end up with a new key for the ignition and the original key for the doors. You have to remove some of the the plastic trim from the steering column until you can see a slot in the top of the ignition cylinder housing. With the key turned to the ACC position, use a small screwdriver to press down into that slot, then pull the cylinder out from the housing. Put the new cylinder in and replace the plastic and you should be good to go without using a locksmith. In my daughters case, the key wouldn't turn at all, so a locksmith came and used lockpicks to get the cylinder to turn enough to pull it out. Inside the cylinder are brass pins that are cut to different lengths. They all need to line up perfectly in order to turn the cylinder. When they, or your key, get worn, they don't line up right anymore and the cylinder will not turn. Using lockpicks, a locksmith can line them up without a key.

If the battery light came on while driving, then the alternator is not charging the battery. As said above you check it with a voltmeter. A charged battery should read 12.6 volts with no load on it. After starting the engine, it should be about 14 volts. The new battery you bought is not on its last legs, it is simply discharged. Any decent battery charger will recharge it. It will need a good long charge, like overnight, before you can expect it to go back to normal duty in the car. Most auto parts stores will check the alternator output for free if you don't have a voltmeter.

This is not unique to Lexus. Have a locksmith replace the inner lock cylinder. It's not expensive. They will match the new cylinder to your existing key. Your problem will only get worse if you don't. My daughter had this same thing happen to her until she finally couldn't get the key to turn at all one evening in a not so great part of town. A locksmith will charge more to come to you at night, especially in a bad part of town.

You could probably get the whole assy from a used auto parts yard for $2 and replace the parts in yours.

Sounds like the two small vacuum hoses that should go to the vacuum tank located on the underside of the air cleaner housing assembly.

I agree. However, you will need to have the second set of TPMS sensors programmed to the car or you will still get faults. These cars are set up to allow two sets of sensors and after programming, you can easily switch between sets. If you buy after-market sensors make sure they are compatible with Lexus beforehand. Also, if you get your snow tires mounted somewhere other than a Lexus dealer, make sure you get the ID numbers of the sensors before they mount the tires. Those numbers are needed to program them into the cars computer. You'll have to go to a Lexus dealer or find someone that has the Techstream software to do the programming. I had to replace a broken TPMS in one of my wheels, and it only takes a couple of minutes to program it. I'd do it for you, but SC is quite a drive from BOS! Here is an excellent tire size calculator you can use to make sure you get the right size tire to maintain speedometer accuracy. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Replacement starts at the bottom of page 12... CHARGING.pdf

If you have your owners manual look at page 290. It shows where to put a floor jack to lift both wheels from the front and the rear. If you don't have a manual, let me know and I'll send you a pdf file with the photo...

I don't know if all PB editions came with the Mark Levinson system or not. It you have that system, it will have the name Mark Levinson on the faceplate of the radio. Here's the service manual info on the radio system. You may just have a fuse blown. The radios have a built-in diagnostic of their own also. Hope this helps. entertainment.pdf

re-initialize it. INITIALIZATION.pdf

standard radio or Mark Levinson?

sent you a pm...

The window reset is to roll each window down about 1/3 of the way, then hold the switch to the up position for about 2 secs after the window goes full up. You also have to initialize the sunroof and rear liftgate. Check the owners manual under initialization.

Do you notice any leakage under the car on your driveway/garage floor? If you don't see fluid leakage, I doubt there is anything wrong with your steering rack. What you describe sounds like a classic case of warped brake rotors. I would start by taking the car to another shop and telling them your want your rotors "turned". This is a process where the rotors are cut on a lathe to even out any warpage. All rotors are marked with their minimal allowed thickness. As along as your rotors can be trued without going below their minimal thickness, they will be fine. If they can't, you will have to replace them. Brake pads may or may not need to be replaced based on their remaining thickness. Brake rotors do not normally warp unless they get very hot. This is usually caused by people who drive with their left foot on the brake pedal. It doesn't take much pedal pressure to make the pads contact the rotors. Bottom line, I would get the rotors turned first and then see if the problem still exists.

I haven't done plugs yet, but the service manual says that the entire cowl area needs to be removed to get to the rear bank of plugs. That means wiper arms and motor, etc. If indeed you must remove all of that, it looks like quite a chore. If you are handy and have a good selection of tools, it might be possible to get to them without taking all that off. There's nothing that requires a dealer visit, but you should expect it to take a while.

Spongy brakes always means there is air in the system. This also causes the delay in braking. The reason is that air can be compressed, fluid cannot. When you step on the brake normally with air in the system, the first amount of pedal travel goes to compressing the air before any work can be done by the calipers. When you stomp on the brake, the air is still compressed, but you don't realize how fast you just compressed it and the brakes grab right away. The difference is in how fast you compressed the air. On this car, you must get a competent dealer (or a mechanic with Techstream) to bleed the brakes properly. If someone just bleeds the brakes in the traditional method, you will not get all the air out. This is because air can be trapped in the anti-lock brakes part of the system. The Techstream software has a brake bleeding function that will energize the anti-lock brake system so the system can be thoroughly bled out. Personally, I think the brakes on my 09 RX 350 are some of the best I've ever driven. Get it done right and you will be happy.