jetfixer01

Can't recommend any one unit, but you will need another transponder key. The engine won't start without a recognized key near the antenna, which is next to the ignition switch. I would buy another key online, use Techstream to program it to the car, and then tape it under the dash near the switch WITHOUT getting it cut. That way a thief would not be able to steal the car after it is remotely started since the steering and shifter would still be locked.

That's the one I'm talking about. You have to unlock the door from inside the car, open it fully by hand, then close it by hand. After that, it should resume working electrically from the front pushbutton, or your key fob. Have you recently disconnected the battery? If so, there are a bunch of things that have to be "Initialized" including the back door.

You'll need to open the door manually first. Remove the small plastic cover from the inside bottom center of the door. There is a latch there that you move to the side to unlock the door. Open the door fully by hand, then close it by hand. After that, it should work electrically again.

I seriously doubt all coils went bad at the same time. Get the car hooked up to Techstream to see what's really going on. I would not use Chinese coil packs.

Have you tried removing and re-inserting the disk?

I've only put a couple thousand miles on them so far. No problems at all. I bought the car used so I never knew what the stock suspension felt like. The rear struts had gone mostly flat and I had a lot of body roll and sway. That is all gone now, but to me it feels stiff. Not so stiff that I could have justified the huge price difference for other brands. And if I had, how would I know that they felt any different? Keep in mind that the FCS came as assemblies with new coil springs too, not just the gas strut. So that saved a lot of time during installation.

The ODB connector is under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Any code reader should be able to do a reset. Most auto parts stores will do it for you. If that was all that caused the light, it will probably go out on its own after a few start/operating temperature/shutdown cycles without seeing the evap fault.

FCS is from China. I used their complete strut assemblies on the rears of my 09 RX350. I found them to fit perfectly, but the ride is a little stiffer than the factory strut. Have not done fronts yet. Since doing the front mounts alone would cause you to need an alignment, I would go ahead and replace the assemblies, then get the alignment.

I would replace the Bank 1 Sensor 2 first, clear the fault codes, drive it a while and see if the code comes back before changing the other sensor. Bank 1 Sensor 2 is at the rear of the engine.

Why do I think this is an advertisement?

Do you have a full size spare tire? If so, you have another tpms sensor in it.

Yes, the inner circle of the cover moves, but should lock when turned clockwise. What has been said by other folks here is correct. My guess is that it is time for new rear struts. Mine is doing the same thing. One way to check is to jack the car from the side until the rear wheel is just off the ground. Then put a long pry bar under the tire and lever the tire up & down. There should be smooth resistance. Mine has a "dead" spot before I get resistance. That is the worn out strut and the noise of it not being able to take the bumps smoothly anymore.

Did you pull the fuse for the transponder key amplifier?

Not everything goes through those fuses. There are certain wires called, "fusible links" that are designed to melt like fuses, but look just like regular wires. These vehicles have numerous computers and receivers that need to stay powered in standby mode. Otherwise, when you went to start your car and turned the key, you would have to wait for the engine computer to boot up so it would know how to run. Also, there are antenna receivers that are always in standby just waiting for you to hit the unlock button on your key fob.

Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those syptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement. Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you'll probably want to replace the O2 sensor. The light will probably not go out on its own, you'll need to reset it. If you don't have the equipment to do this yourself, take it back to Autozone. Their reader can also reset it. If the problem still exists, it will come back on, sometimes after about two or three engine warmup cycles.

You must remove the v-belt or you'll never get the alternator out. You need to tighten the tensioner bolt back up (counter-clockwise) and then pivot it enough to put a pin (5mm hex key or something similar) to hold it. Then remove the belt. The alternator should be able to be removed. Do yourself a favor and put a new v-belt on. tensioner.pdf

Are you saying that the tensioner is in the way of removing the alternator? Is it the tensioner pulley or the whole pulley and bracket? If it's the tensioner pulley, I think, but I'm not sure. that the pulley bolt is left-hand thread.

My 09 RX350 has a camera but no IR emitter. Here is info for the 08 model, it may be of some help. park assist.pdf

You could probably get one from your local used auto parts emporium, (junkyard) for about $5. If you don't want to get dirty, most yards will pull it for you for a few more $$.

ENGINE.bmp Remove these five bolts.

There is absolutely no reason a timing chain should not last the life of the vehicle. Even if there was any perceptible wear, the chain has a tensioner and vibration dampers. At the most, the tensioner might need to be replaced. The dealer is a ripoff artist. There is no way that anyone's driving style can possibly have any effect whatsoever on timing chain wear. Even if you were to hold the gas pedal to the floor in neutral until something failed, it would not be the chain.

If you don't have or have access to an ODBII tester, try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if the rough idle goes away. If it does, try cleaning the MAF sensor. Use ONLY MAF sensor cleaner and do not touch the very thin wires running through it. Let the spray cleaner dry before you start the engine. If cleaning does no good, then you probably have a failed MAF sensor. Confirm this with an ODBII scanner before you spend the money on a new one.

If you feel that they are not working correctly, try the initialization procedure listed in the owners manual. Make sure to do this on level ground.

Use this as a guide... IGNITION.pdf

every car with air conditioning has an evaporator. It is the A/C version of a heater core.