JIBBBY

Try and do the exhaust - mufflers and cats especially, magnaflow is a good brand to consider...The noise is not too bad but if you like your luxury sc to sould like stock high flowing resonators should be installed too...I have headers, Magnaflow catalytic converter, Highflowing Y's and straight thru Megan N1 mufflers...With that setup you can rattle the neighbor hood from the noise.....However adding two sets of round high flowing resonators you can get the car sounding like stock again without sacrificing too much performance....Complete Exhaust mods can literally give you 50-75hp on the older SC's.. The older SC400 exhaust systems are one of the most restrictive systems out there, really bad and litterally choke the engine....Ebay has good deals on Lexus exhaust stuff.... The mufflers and cats get clogged up over the years so get big gains with each change... The Apexi piggy-back ECU is good cheap mod that opens up the full air/fuel mix delivery to the motor that is restrictive too at stock form...Fuel economy will not suffer that much either as you tune for a increased lean mix..... Headers are tricky and expensive but EKtuning.com just came out with the only true bolt on headers for the SC400 in the entire United States.....They bolt up perfectly but are $1000 per set..Not cheap.....For more header and exhaust performance info. check out Lextreme forums.com and under the exhaust section you will find much info on the different headers and exhaust systems that are available.. The Precision dragon torque converter is one of the most impressive mods and doesn't effect the driveablilty of the car...As you know now the stock SC are painfully sluggish off the line and from a dead stop...That completely changes with an upgraded torque converter...You can spin the tires from a dead stop with a new torque converter and your 0-30mph times are dramatically improved....Hope this helps... These mods will not effect the reliablity of the car either...

Adus bushings are great....I used them for a brief period and they felt better then the daisens I had on before that....Armstrong bushings are good too...The best is the factory OEM bushings....Good luck...

Try Ebay....I see the ADUS bushings all the time...

Daisens do not hold grease, noise and deteriation will occure it is only a matter of time.....Don't take my work for it, look into the forum Lextreme.com and search Daisen bushings....You will fine I am not the only person whom seems to think the daisens are crap.... The daisen steering rack bushings are outstanding, the LCA's are not... Good luck with your Daisens I do hope they work out better for you then they did for me and others...... I believe ADUS and ARMSTRONG bushings are a much better choice...Go to Lextreme.com, then use the search function and type "ADUS bushing" read the post on daisens and other bushings...there are pictures shown on how and why the Daisens wear out....If I knew how to link I would....

You need to remove the headlight as you have a leak in the seal of the lense if it clouds or gets moisture on the inside....What I did is remove both headlights, throw them both in the oven at 450 for 15-20 minutes...That heats up the silicon holding the lense on...Remove from the oven and remove the lense...I used a 3 step product called PLASTIC SHINE... used the three liquids and cleaned front and back of lenses...Bought some siclicon sealer and re-glued the lenses back in the casing and reinstalled the head lights...Came out like new with no leaks....Hardest part is removing the headlamps from the car...People are selling them on EBAY in new condition after using that method I just mentioned... Hope that helps..

Well not much more to be said about the Daisens... Dasines and Politics should be the name of this thread now... I agree with both of you, yes we could be in for tough times ahead....The middle east is in a very delicate state....Israel is lucky they have us to back them up, and by doing so that makes us the enemy too... A good Middle East cleansing is needed if you ask me.....Irak is just the start... The only problem is the other world powers are getting nervous because of our aggreassion in the middle east, and also the fact that we may dominate the oil supplies, etc...That is why you see N. Korea trying to make nukes, Russia trying to make a come back, and who knows what the leaders of China are thinking.....These are troubled times for sure, but as history dictates a war is over due... When you have several religous groups that are willing to kill themselves to kill others in the name of their God, What you have is a growing problem..They need to be delt with immediately if not sooner....Imagine what Hamas, AL Queda, Etc..are willing to do if they had long range nukes, I know they are not afraid to fly planes into buildings, behead innocent people, etc...... I am against war, and am always in favor of diplomatic solutions...However, you cannot create a permenant peaceful agreement with terrorist organisations, they cannot be reasoned with when they think we are evil... I agree that the moral decline of our nation is upsetting to most religious groups, and I can't blame them either......However, I don't see other extreme religious groups like Orthedox Jews, Born agian Christians, Buddist Monks,, etc...plotting terrortst plans to wipe out sinful people. ... Any religion that preaches violence instead of peace should be delt with accordingly before real damage is done...They should reach out to sinful people and preach their Islamic message of peace, rehabilitate and not illiminate....That is my two cents....

Hey, hottrodding is not for everyone, but it is nice to be able to have the power to call upon when needed in a certain situation, or just for fun....Just for you info, the LS and SC really are built to handle the same power....My friends LS400 is as fast as my SC400 and he has had no problems with stuff breaking...He slapped a turbo on his stock V8 motor...The LS is a great car, huge moon roof, good room inside...May be a better choice then the SC....I have owned one in the past, but being a single man the SC was the only way to go for me.... I take it you don't like Bush very much....Also I take it you think he is not too bright either....Your probably right, I think he was evaluated as having the lowest IQ out of any President in history...You could be onto something, and without his fathers help and concelling he would really be in trouble.... I happen to like Bush, I guess, maybe....The middle east affair is a war that had to happen sooner or later...Those hard core Islamic Arabs that hate our Amercan ways and people, will continue to fly planes into buildings, be-head innocent people, and blow themselves up too take out more innocent people....Even if Clinton was in office I think this war would have been unavoidable....Too bad there are politcal sides to our country- Republican vs. Democrats we are one nation and should not be divided...It's a shame it is like that....We should all work together to make the world a better place for everyone....

Oh come on my car is not that fast...It's pretty fast but not absolutely rediculous.. Did you know you can really get those LS400's moving too....Just a few mods here and few mods there and your zipping down the road in your luxury 4 door sedan....A true sleeper, think about it... .Impressive throttle response is fun for everyone....Believe it or not you will actually get better gas milieage too when modifing your exhaust, intake, etc.. makes the engine work less hard to turn those rear wheels which saves gas....... What do you think are you ready to hotrod your LEX and make the wife upset and kids scared? See ya :) PS...I didn't know the President drinks Budweiser.....Can beer make you wiser? It made Bud wiser...Will it make Bush wiser?

Your right, I am only speaking of the SC's and not the LS's.. I did not understand that you were talking about the LS's, my bad,.......Maybe the arms and bushings are different for the LS models. I don't know, maybe the daisen bushings even work fine on a few SC's too....What I do know is that my set off Daisens and my friends new set of LCA Daisens failed....That is not opinion either that is fact.......I would bet that knew OEM bushing would still ride better on your LS then the Daisens, now that is just opinion... I am very happy for you that the Daisens are working out great on your LS.. You are luckier man then I...I hope they continue to hold up for you....

Fellas, fellas....Ok try installing a new set of OEM bushings after riding on the Daisens and you will see what I mean....As far as some wearing out fast and others not is possible...The problem with the Daisen bushings is that they do not have ribbed sides to hold the grease in like OEM's and others, the grease just slides out...Also too much material and rubber so the bushings start to mushroom out at the sides over time..lastly the feel is too spungy in comparison to OEM's.... These are the facts and they are undisputed from my experiences........The grease moves out, the bushings wear and dry up fast and then you get noise... My friends daisens started making noise after 3 months and he greased the heck out of them, mine the same.. I had mine professionally installed too.........Two true story's, two negative experiences...I have become a bushing expert almost from that experience... If you really want perfection, go to the nearest Toyota Dealership and pic up a set of 1993-1998 Supra Lower Control Arms for around $500 and install them on your SC.....3 big bolts and a wheel allignment and you are done..Oh and don't pay a mechanic a ton of money for the swap it is so easy and I did it myself in about 45 minutes.....The LCA's come new with OEM bushings installed and the new pivot ball joint.They come complete... That is what I did on my 1992 SC4 and that is better then any type of bushing replacement, and probably ends up costing not too much more, etc.....Those arms are the exact same fit and bolt pattern and mount flawlessly onto the SC's.....My daisens and other bushings are gone and history and I can't be happier with the Supra LCA arms...Responsive, stable and good too go for many years to come... That is my two cents....

Hey I am glad you enjoyed my thread....Really all you need on these sc4's is a true progressive 150hp nos system and the car will fly....The Dragon torque converter is really great for non NOS runs... With NOS and the Dragon TC you will get major traction problems in first and second gear...unless you plan on getting a limited slip differential, fat rear tires, and or a progressive nos system.. I don't recommend the combination with the stock traction setup..... It is nice to have the car motor well without the nos too....The exhaust, DTC, LSD, intake and ECU piggyback makes that possible...For rude power NOS, turbo, and or supercharging is where it is at for sure...If you got money a Eaton M90 supercharger would be nice and fit right in, or turbo's can and have been installed on these engines too...Your looking at $5000 for those in most cases, and nos is closer to $1000....

Well I removed the headlights and stuck them in the oven for a few minutes to heat up the glue and then easily removed the clouded lenses... I then I purchased a three step plexi glass cleaner at the local auto shop...Rubbed on the three compounds on front and back of lense and they were restored to like new.... Grabbed a silicon sealer tube and re-sealed the lenses... Reinstalled the headlamps and they look like brand new... The hardest part is removing the headlamps from the car, the rest is easy and doable just as I described....

I wanted 100% reliability with this fan swap, so I went with the ignition power source, so when the car turns on the fans turn on. When the car turns off the fans turn off....No heat sensors or additional wiring that could fail.... I also have a fan kill switch installed if I want to cut the fans off at any time manually.... THis is simple and effective.... Maybe more reliable the stock.... Cooling the radiator at cold starts doesn't effect anything, as the cars thermostate keeps the car running at operating temperature and not the fans and cold water in the radiator..... I recommend the ignition power source to work the fans on a relay.... Heat sensors and thermostics can fail over time..and nobody wants to overheat and break down.... The ignition wire will never fail.... I also want to say that by just unscrewing/unplugging the hydro pump power cylinoid source is all you have to do to delete...No looping 10ohm circuit is needed...The ECU (computer is not effected by the hydro pump deletion) The oil light comes on because the hydro fluid is removed and the oil sensor reads it that way (Empty)...The reported stalling at idle problem I had was not related to the pump deletion but to my intake...So your car will not run any different.....This swap has been completed and the car runs perfect for months now, no problems what so ever to report... I give it a thumbs up....

Thanks Sk, it's been a hobby of mine for the past couple years or so...My goal was to make this car as fast or faster then the new Vette's and or AMG E55's, and I am getting very close... Still considering two more mods.... Mild set of performance cams which would bring an estimated 30-40 gain in horse power...Lextreme.com is currently manufacturing a set or regrind cams for the 400's..and should be available soon for distribution. The cost should be no more then $500-$600 for the set of 4 cams.... The only concern I have about the cams is that the stock rev engine cut off limit could peek and then the fuel feed is cut off by the cars ECU or computer brain....I redline now hard at times while using the nos, and with the addition of performance cams that typically allow the engine to rev even higher then normal, that may cause me problems.....We will see... A shift kit for the stock tranny, not sold on this mod yet, and I don't want to sacrifice the little luxury I have left in this car....Agin we will see... Just for someone whom may consider modifing their SC, money spent to date totals for my car is at $18,000...I originally purchased this 1992 SC400 3 years ago for $8500 with 89,000 miles on it...After all the above mod's, new leather interior, factory quality re-paint job, additional little mods, etc... I am now at $18,000 and that includes the original purchase price......This is not a cheap hobby....but I am not complaining with the results......

If anyone is interested in this thread, I can continue further with more mods.. I understand this is not a Lexus performance forum, but you guys don't know what your missing out on....There is alot of potential in these small V8 engines...Many restrictions at factory....

I have been upgrading my 1992 SC400 for over two years now and I am pretty much finished...I would like to share the results of all my mods...This will be a story, so grab some popcorn get comfortable, and read... :) Presicion Dragon Torque Converter - I immediately noticed a huge improvement with throttle response from a dead stop....0-30mph speeds were dramatically increased....Very impressive off the line...With the torque being transfered to lowend the topend power suffers a bit... There is a give and a take with this mod.. At high rpm's the car becomes slightly sluggish...To gain back that topend power that is lost I would say changing out the rear half of the exhaust system to highflow will bring it back to what it was.. Driveability remains the same...This is one of the best mods I did and really wakes the car up..$1200 :) Apexi piggy-back ECU - While 10hp or so is gained and felt by allowing the stock ECU (computer brain) to put out increased fuel and air mix to the engine, the downside is you will notice a tiny hit at the pumps..Helps with engine tuning too...but I did have my Apexi piggy back ECU malfunction so another brand may be worth considering... A good mod for power and tuning..$400 :) Exhaust mods - Replacing the stock mufflers with straight thru stainless steel mufflers. (Megan N1 circular mufflers)...I immediately noticed an improvement in power at high rpm's..I was pleasantly suprised with the difference made over stock.... To compensate for the increased exhaust noise levels I installed two high flowing stainless steel resonators on the rear exhaust section just after the mufflers...That cut the noise in half without sacrificing performance...$100 :) Exhaust mods - Replacing the main center catilytic converter and Y pipe to high flowing also made a noticeable difference at at higher rpm's to my suprise...I installed the magnaflow 2 into 1 catalytic converter with the built in high flowing Y design....Again, power at high rpm's were clearly noticed..$150 :) Exhaust mods - Installing a set of S&S Headers was amazing and the most dramatic exhaust mod change.20-35hp or so was gained, noticed and felt...Although the S&S Headers were originally designed for the GS400 they are being sold for the SC400's as well and there is a slight difference between the two cars.. What is suppose to be a bolt on mod is really not..When installed and connected to the stock exhaust system the exhaust hangs way to low to the ground.. Shortening the down pipes and deleting the two smaller cats is needed and installation was a nightmare, this mod cannot be done in your backyard... EKtuning.com headers would be a better choice for installation... Noise levels to my suprise are really not increased...rumble rumble just a little and a tuff sounding noise, maybe 10% louder..However, I like to keep things quiet so I added two more stainless steel high flowing resonators on the rear exhaust section and that has helped alot with keeping the car very quiet at idle, like stock...... Great mod for power...$1100 installed.. :) Intake - I combined the BFI intake design, Rod Millen pod filter, and Enjen snorkel tube...A custom heat sheild was also made..No noticeable gains were felt, but my feeling is the intake upgrade flows better then stock and allows the engine to breathe better... I still give this mod a thumbs up on looks alone, bling bling...$200 :) Installing the Flex-a-lite dual electic fans - In contrary to what most think there are small power gains to be made when deleting the oil drive hydraulic stock cooling fan and then changing to dual electric fans... These fans once installed combined with a new stock sized radiator cools the car better then I would have imagined...The car now operates slightly colder at all times and I experience no cooling problems on the hottest of days and sitting in traffic with the A/C on full blast...My SC4 always runs at a quarter temp reading and doesn't move.... Noise levels are increased but it is a good sounding noise...Note: the electrical crap that comes with the fans are all garbage, thermo stick, control box, etc..all junk...I elected to use a different control box (relay) and heat sensor...I could not be happier with this swap...One side effect to this swap is the oil sensor light comes on every now and then on the instrument cluster...No big deal, just annoying...Need to remove the bulb... Oh, and with this mod the front end weight reduction is around 25-30lbs...$250 :) Nitros Dry System 100-150hp shot - BIG BIG difference in power....Immediate torque is felt at the wheels when running the nitrous oxide.. The NOS does create traction problems for me in first and second gears so timing the activation is key for fast runs... Second gear is manageable but I still get both rear wheel spinning loose at times...Feels like the engine actually doubles in power on a good run...Down sides are: untimely tranny shifts at times but not often, non controlled acceleration kinda stinks...Bottle refills every month cost $80 or so on average (but I ride the nos regularly and often), also rear tire wear is increased dramatically. Changing, opening and closing the nos bottles is an inconvenience at times...Benefits that come to mind is the car remains in stock reliable N/A form..Gas mileage remains the same as apposed to a Turbo or Supercharger setup..Passing emmisions is not a problem...No delay what so ever with nitrous..After two years of almost daily use the engine still idles perfect, does not use oil, tranny may be suffering abit but still works fine with 100,000 miles on the car.. No reported breakdowns what so ever since I bought the car, which is big to me.... One other thing in contrary to what people think nos is safer even then gasoline and is not flamable...Nitrous Oxide when it is fused with gasoline then becomes flamable.....So you will not go up in flames.....$1200 :) Supra Torsen Limited slip differential - I picked up a 1995 Supra TT (automatic) torsen LSD complete and installed it with no problems, all the bolts patterns alligned perfect and is basically the same fitment as stock... The differential gearing seems to be very close but is not identical. I did notice the speedo was off just slightly after the swap.. This leads me to believe there is a lower gearing change between stock and the Supra Torsen LSD. It is a good change in my opinion...I believe it makes the car slightly quicker but reduces top speed by just a bit... No more one wheel burnouts, now I get two wheel burnouts...Better traction also in weather conditions, etc.. Most importantly for me is that off the line traction is gained.. There is no difference in driveability or noise either...Runs like the stock open end differential... This is a very good mod in my opinion for hotrodders and others that live in poor weather conditions. The Traction control feature is not the same either on these cars.....$500 :) Electrical upgrades - Removing the stock big block battery to a smaller, lighter in weight, and more effecient Optima battery is a good idea for front end weight reduction and performance.. I also changed out the original crispy old ground cables...Installed copper connections, high performance spark plug wires...Also installed a hyper voltage regulator that helps stabalize the batteries electrical current...The combination of all these mods made the car run crispier and feel more responsive...No more dimming of headlights at idle, just smoothe electrical even current flow throughout.. $350 :) Replacing the stock rims and tires made a big diffence in traction and looks...Reducing the rear tire "diameter height" size and reduced rim weight from stock helped a bit with 0-60mph performance and weight transfer..More rubber on the road obviously helped too....I went with the 10.5 inche light weight alluminum Allessio rims with 275/35/ZR18 tires and could not be happier...The car really grips the road now and most importantly off the line traction was gained...Looks awesome... The front end of my SC4 now actually lifts abit at launch as apposed to before.. $1200 :) Eibach springs and Tokimo shocks - It was hard to give this one a smiley face, but compared to stock I do believe there is a huge difference in the cars handling abilities and looks...Down sides are - reduced suspension action by almost 50%, slight steering wheel drift on freeway (minimal). I have been running on these for about two years now and when first installed I was extremely dissapointed...However, over the years the suspension softened up, became more confortable to drive, and no more rear wheel hop when launching...The almost two inch drop allows the car to grip better on launches and when cornering (night and day from stock) The car does not bottom out but you can feel dips and bumps pretty well...I give it a shaky thumbs up...Tein Coilovers would be a better and more costly choice for a daily driver...$400 :) Removal of the stock heavy spare tire, rim and tools in the trunk along with the heavy 12 CD changer (I use the IPOD and MP4 instead of the changer) this near 100lb weight reduction made a slight difference and gave the car a little more spunk, maybe.....Traction did not suffer from what I can tell...Fuel economy probably increased slightly too.. I am just hoping I don't get a flat... $ Free :) Supra Lower Control Arms and OEM bushings - After trying out the Daisen LCA front end bushings, I discovered I did not like the feel at all...I noticed premature bushing wear and noise...I then purchased a new set of Supra Lower Contol arms that come with the stock OEM bushings. Installed perfectly and immediately noticed an improved feel in steering and suspension...Could not be happier with the change...The daisens ended up in the garbage can...New Supra Lower Control Arms $500 :( Tower Bar - When installed I could not notice any difference in performance or stability at all...The tower bar I have is not a TRD but it is not an Ebay special either...It is solid.. This mod could have been a waste of money... $75 :) Upping the stock tranny line pressure - I can't say for sure if it actually made my car faster, but shifts seem to be more crisp and maybe even more timely.... Does not slam into gears but there is a noticeable difference over stock.. It is a cheap mod (turn of a screw) that actually preserves the life of the tranny from what the experts told me, reduced tranny wear with upped line pressure is what I here......Downsides - hard clunk or shift when going from Park to Drive or from Drive to Reverse...I would have to lean toward saying it does help a little with the transmissions performance... $100 I am going to stop here as these are the most dramatic mods that I have done to date..Also I may be wearing out my keyboard and fingers with this post...... In conclusiong: My 1992 SC400 is still running with the stock engine internals and stock tranny and this car is fast now and can beat and or keep up with most newer elite sports cars.. I have researched, inquired, tried and failed with mods over the years and would like to save people some time and trouble by posting this thread. This thread is a quick guide on how to make your SC400, GS400 and or LS400, 430's too super fast..... I will also include old and new car pic's with all this mod crap..No order of pic's just throwing them out there.... Hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this thread ...I Had some free time to kill....See ya

Yeah, all you need is Lextreme forum to guide you through the different swaps...Also Club Lexus Forums has the detailed info as well.... For the 1UZ-FE (SC400) engine swaps into trucks and special projects..Lextreme is the place to learn... Common swaps maybe Club Lexus forums...

Well the Supra 6 speed manual V160 tranny is the best manual swap with the 1UZ-FE for performance...R154 tranny is swapped all the time, Th400 has also been swapped...That is all I have seen... The Supra TT 6 speed V160 manual tranny can hold over 1000+ horsepower...if you can believe...Very solid to say the least... Not so sure about a truck tranny...You would have to make a custom bellhousing to mount the two together...

The best way to fix is to replace the rubber weather molding on that door side....That happens usually when someone tries to break into your car using a jimmy or coat hanger at the top of the door and then that rubber molding is disturbed and no longer holds air from coming in....Try Opening your door and you will see the rubber that the door shuts on and creates the air tight seal...Look at the area where the noise is coming from and inspect the rubber mess with it stretch it outwards and that might work temporarily...Like I said either a theft attempt or accident can cause those door seals to fail, they should hold up well for years and years....

Well I am not a mechanic, just and average guy who can turn a wrench and read instructions pretty well.. and I would simply remove the heads carefully and purchase a new head gasket and have the heads resurfaced at a local head shop, then reinstall....Lextreme.com and Club lexus.com has write ups on how to....Or take it to a mechanic and not the dealer, and pay anywhere from $500 to $1200....Doing it yourself $150 tops is my guess with gasket and resurfacing.....Good luck... Oh and anything over $1000 is a rip off in my book....For 2 grand you can get a great replacement engine off ebay with low miles...What a joke...

I have and basically what the turbonator is, it is a circular sheet metal with fins that is mounted inside the air intake snorkel tube...When the air stream hits the sheet metal fins the air flow is changed and creates slightly better combustion when it hits the cylinder chambers...Kind of expands the intake air in circular motion...Hard to explain......Very very minimul gains...and if not mounted perfect and flush against the snorkel tube it can take away power....This is why I don't recommend it... Since the snorkel tubes on Lexus's are ribbed it is very hard to mount these effectively...I would only say try and don't expect much unless you have an intake like mine.... Well I wanted to post a picture of my injen intake but for some reason this forum is not allowing me to post pictures....Don't understand why? Other forums no problem and this is the main reason I have stopped posting on this forum...Without pictures I really cannot offer people much help....If there is a forum administrator listening in you may want to help me out on this one.....

I have used and researched the turbonator insert and other sheet metal wind aireators....If designed well and mounted well may have a minimal benifit...I would not recommend the purchase...If you want to look into a cheap and one of the best aftermarket intakes around for the SC's look into the BFI intakes........ Details on the BFI intake can be found at intellexual.net... Go to intakes and search under the SC section...Can't miss it...and you can rework it at home....

That is a good point...Nos/nitrous Oxide is hard on the engine only when first applied as it is an instant boost (stress) that is applied to the internal engine parts as apposed to normal gasoline excelleration....With that being said, once the engine is running under nos/nitrous it should be considered no different then high octane gasoline...So when the motor blows at higher rpm's it is not because of the power of Nitrious over normal gasoline...However tuning Air/Fuel mix at high rpm's with large amounts of nos output shots is very important. Running a lean fuel mix is a big no no with nos...That is a diffence worth considering when using large nos shots is that the A/F ratios must be running slightly rich.......Hense the key word "tuning" Now in regards to the 2uz motor blowing at 420whp under nos, I have found that the owner of that engine came to the conclusion that the main reason for the crank damage was that the rods failing caused damage to the forged crank...So inregards to the 2uz... motor - the rods are the weakest point of that motor and should see failure at or around the approx. 420whp mark regardless of the nos application..The owner was running in tune on a rich fuel mix...So power was the main factor with the rods failing and nothing more..... Each 2uz..motor is different so that is why I say approx....some may hold more than others, depending on many factors, age of motor, etc.. Also yes the 2uz-fe motor is a very good motor, but in comparison to the 1uz-fe the rods are the main difference in holding power...That is a well known fact for some time.. 420 rear wheel hp is impressive on the stock motor if you ask me...Remember this is not HP measured at the crank but hp measured at the wheels... For those that may not know the difference between the two, When you buy a new car and the dealer say's this car has 300hp, well that is being measured at the crank and or just at the engine only...When measuring at the wheels you remove hp's from the drivetrain lose to the wheels...So the 300hp the dealer may claim is really mpre like 250rwhp... I provided that info for those that may not know the difference between the two... I have just read on another forum that an early model !uz-fe sc400 motor dyno'd at 450rwhp and was well tuned and no failure reported... However this was hear say and the report came from Australia....I did not see visual evidence...However, this is encouraging as the source is reliable... Keep in mind readers that the motors on all year SC400's are stronger and can hold more power then the actual automatic stock transmissions.....Many transmission have reported failure around the 350-370rwhp mark... 2nd gear seems to be the weekest link in the transmission...Just some facts to note before hotroding your sc400's....

Just to update my findings from other forums... On another forum a member has reached the 420rwhp mark on a 2uz...motor and blew it...The engine was well tuned and actually running a little rich for his nitros system.....When the motor was inspected after it blew he found that the rods and crank failed on the 2uz... Now it is known that the 1uz.. motor is a stronger motor then the 2uz at stock....the rods are stonger for one, not sure about the cranks... With this new finding I would say it is safe to assume the 1UZ-FE motor can handle an approx. 420rwhp but good tuning is required...Not done yet.....

I am trying to determine how much horsepower a stock 1uz-fe engine can handle... I now know of a sc400 stock motor that dyno'd at 400rwhp without failure...(larger fuel injectors were needed on that motor) Has anyone by any chance pushed their stock sc400 motor past that point successfully without forged pistons and rods? The current stock fuel injectors can put out up to 370rwhp before running lean and blowing the motor... With a built tranny and larger fuel injectors I believe the stock engine can handle 500rwhp...Can anyone by any chance give me any factual info on this subject.... I realise this is not a performance forum, but I thought maybe someone ventured where none have gone before..past the 400rwhp point with stock internals... Looking to see what I can push these motors too without blowing...All reports of blown 1uz-fe motors came from a running the stock injectors and the running lean fuel mixture which is the number one cause of piston destruction....Anyone? Hear is a picture my 1992 Sc400 motor now pushing close to that 370rwhp mark with nos..... Want to push further after tranny buildup and new injectors....... What I know now to this point is that the stock early model sc400 rods can handle 500rwhp and maybe a little more, pistons at 400rwhp so far with no reported problems, looking for more info...Posted this topic on two other forums and am compiling all info...