Ancdmd

also check the torque on the lower control arm bushings. forward bushing is 111 ft-lb and rearward bushing is i believe a whopping 166 ft-lb!

can you give some more details or be more descriptive? does it sound like its coming from the front or rear? At what speed does the sound begin?

I have a similar noise in my '02 LS430 that's been driving me nuts for 18 months. Techs and dealers have been no help. Does it sound anything like this?

From what I've read staying with OEM parts for the shocks/steel springs setup is the best way to go. There's a wealth of info on clublexus.com and probably here about this conversion, should find some threads with a couple searches.

Sign up for clublexus.com discount at Sewell Lexus parts online and the shocks are about $900 with the discount

The two forward cats were visually inspected when I had the y-pipe and rear cat assembly replaced last month.

I have a noise in my '02 LS430 that has been there for 18 months and I can't figure out what is causing it. I've had at least ten mechanics at different shops try to diagnose it and they either can't hear it, hear it but don't know what it is, or have misdiagnosed it. It started out as a tinny metallic rattling sound that I could hear above 60mph only when the car was coasting with my foot just slightly touching the throttle, but not enough to keep the speed constant. Now it has progressed to the point where I can hear a rattle constantly, although it is faint at lower speeds. It is quite noisy on the highway when coasting now. I can hear a rattle slightly at idle when parked, and it seems to be more audible around 2000 rpm. The car has 137k miles and has always had all service. I've replaced the motor and trans mounts, and I just replaced the exhaust y-pipe and all rubber exhaust mounts. I had the forward cats and the resonator inspected and they are ok. I also had the driveshaft center bearing replaced and the shaft inspected. The only time I noticed a difference in the noise was when I had the motor mounts replaced, it seemed to be gone for a month but then returned. I've had the entire front suspension replaced at 110k miles and had it checked multiple times to no avail. I can't be the only one who has ever had this problem! Any ideas? Video clip of sound below, it chimes in about halfway through:

Last time I heard this exact noise in my car was over a year ago and mine still starts and runs fine. As stated above I'd confirm the diagnosis before replacing the starter.

I'm confused. Which bolt are you talking about? The bolt that secures the sway bar mounting bracket to the frame? Or the stud on the end link that goes through the end of the sway bar?

Not necessarily. When the starter is engaged, it is turning the motor and accessories at a very low relative speed. When the motor first fires up, all the rotating mass in the engine and in the accessories suddenly accelerates to a higher rpm (the idle rpm). It may be that something in the alternator makes the noise as its rotation is suddenly accelerated from cranking speed to idle speed or higher. But also keep in mind that this doesnt mean it should make the noise every time you stab the gas pedal either. I'm not real familiar with alternator anatomy but since I haven't heard this grinding noise in my car since I've had the alternator replaced, it would make me lean to it being the alternator.

My '02 LS430 did that for several years. I did replace the alternator a while ago since it developed a bearing whine, and come to think of it, it's been a long time since I've heard that grinding noise. I guess the alternator could have been the source of the grinding noise.

Be careful, too much heat from the buffer will cause microcracks to appear on the surface of the lens.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72954

Also replace the drier when you do the compressor...

It's the compressor, its locking up internally. There's really no way to predict when it will happen or not. Changing the amount of freon in the system may help, but ultimately you'll have to replace the compressor. I know because I had the same problem, took two years to diagnose. Check the sight glass on the AC line in front of the radiator while the AC is running. It should be clear black, if you see any bubbles running through the line then you are low on refrigerant. To add refrigerant simply get a filler hose with a dial gauge and a can of plain refrigerant WITHOUT ADDED SEALERS at the auto parts store, should cost around $25. Follow the instructions and add the refrigerant, takes 5 minutes and is easy to do. This may help your compressor to kick on easier. If you overfill it then it may make the compressor lock up more often, but since it will ultimately need replacing you can't lose. Get a Denso compressor off eBay for @$325 and pay your local independent mechanic to replace it.