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My driver's seat has a couple annoying problems. First, the right side of the back tilt adjustment mechanism doesn't work right, and breaks again right after I fix it. The other (more) annoying problem is that whenever I come to stop or slow down, the seat rocks forward ever so slightly, and then rocks back again when I accelerate. Only enough to drive me insane. How can I fix that? Has anyone here ever rebuilt their power seats?

the exterior driver's door handle on my ls400 has issues. When I pull on it to open the door, it is loose and feels rough as it lifts. The top of the handle visibly scrapes the frame around it. The rest of the car's door handles open smoothly and are not loose at all. Can I just take apart the door and tighten up some screws, or would a fix be more complicated than that?

no idea, I haven't changed them since I bought the car.

I KNOW I saw a topic on this before.... but my search turned up nothing and I can't find it anywhere, so how do I remove a bumper sticker?

I mean a complete maintenance manual. Particulary one that tells me torqueing specifications for bolts, lugs and other things of that nature. I got one for my BMW from Bentley Publishers, but they only print manuals for european cars.

I'd have to say... 2005! They're still making them aren't they?

The Legend sucks. I hate ours. Not only because ours is our official beater car and has a funny smelling interior (yeah, thats credited to the leaky sunroof), but because it is FWD. It whole car has a terrible feel to it, IMO. I hate driving it; it handles like a bowl of oatmeal. The LS400 is WAY better. NO comparison. Although, the Acura has been decently reliable for us. Maybe you should consider a BMW :D Oh, and the Legend is INCREDIBLY hard to park. I thought the Lexus would be the same way, but in parking lots, it is almost as manuverable as my little 5-speed BMW 3'er was.

how does that cruise control system work, anyways? seems pretty high tech... www.tapplastics.com if you have a TAP plastics store in your area, they should be able to help with retrofitting a lexan lense on the laser. good luck.

Why do some cars just fall apart, while others don't? I have a car almost identical to yours, mileage and all, but mine is in great shape, its only problem being the broken temp LCD. Even the little, seemingly maitenance free things such as door lock mechanisms and the like operate without any trouble...

Uhh, yes, I have, as a matter of fact. We all have. Because it is normal.

Well, just spraying it on and letting it sit for 30 seconds doesn't actually do anything, so I sprayed some on a wheelbrush and scrubbed them a bit. I then hosed them off, but immeadiatley had to drive across town, which caused the wheels to be hot by the time I reached my destination. It may just be me being paranoid, but to me it looks like I screwed up the finish on my wheels pretty bad, although you wouldn't notice if I didn't tell you. How can I fix it?

about your knocking, you are using premium gas, right?

alright, but rotors don't warp. I'll get my BMW friends to explain it again :P ← Rotors don't warp? Is there another name for it or something? Please explain. ← Nope, no other name for it; "warped rotors" is nothing but a myth. Rotors just don't warp. This page explains it better than I could: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

alright, but rotors don't warp. I'll get my BMW friends to explain it again :P

I've noticed it at lower speeds too (below 50 or 60 mph); it seems that when I brake at least marginally hard the entire car seems to pulsate a little, the speed of the pulsation is in relation to the speed of the car. I got the car up to about 100 or 110 mph today, and when I braked down to about 40 (not ABS panic braking, mind you, but harder than most braking) it was accompanied by a LOUD noise that went along with the pulsation, and the pulsation was very strong. The noise sounded like a low, but loud, hum that would phase out and in very quickly as the pulses occured. Again, the speed of the pulsation/noise was in direct relation to the speed of the car, but the noise didn't decrease any in pitch as I slowed. The noise happened once more when I sped up to 90 mph and braked again. It seems odd because the noise didn't (but the pulsation did, though not as strongly) happen when braking from, say, 70 mph, only about 85+. When braking from 85+ the noise wouldn't go away for as long as I stayed on the brakes (even down past 40 mph), but wouldn't happen if braking from less than 80 or 85. What could it be? ;) Let me know if you need clarification.

google. search google. Programming replacement keys - 1990 to 1996 LS400 only. 1.Driver's door open and unlocked, all other doors closed and locked. 2.Insert YOUR key in ignition, DO NOT TURN, remove key. 3.Using the lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, slowly press lock and unlock 5 times (count the lock 5 times and unlock 5 times). 4.Shut door. 5.Open door. 6.Using the lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, slowly press lock and unlock 5 times (count the lock 5 times and unlock 5 times). 7.With the door open insert your key into the ignition, turn to on position (DON'T START), wait 5 seconds. Turn off and remove key. 8.Locks should cycle once (Car will lock and then unlock once). If they don't cycle or they cycle more than once, do steps 1-7 over. 9.Now using the remote, push lock button, hold for one second, release. The locks should cycle once. If not, start over and go slower. 10.Close the door. Open the door. Press the lock button on the remote. The locks should cycle. Close the door. Press the lock button on the remote, the doors should lock. Press again and the doors should unlock. that procedure shouldn't work on the 97's...

still, making a 10:1 compression 250 hp V8 that is non interference is pretty crazy.

iterference or no?

Spoiler? Body kit? Euro-spec fog lights? CAI? non-functional hood scoop?? :P

yeah, once you get the back panel off, that "plastic bar" (actually a metal bar with a plastic tube thing over it) is at the very bottom of the back section of the seat.You'll be able to see it when you get the back off, but I had to unclip some of the leather and other material and press the foam rubber cushion back to be able to get my vicegrips in there to move it. Be sure you adjust the left side of the seat to match the right side BEFORE you slide the bar over. This is also when you would want to apply glue, I think you'll see where you have to do that; I don't think glue is really necessary, but would probably be a good idea if you adjust your seat alot. When you do slide the bar over, make sure you slide it in good and hard. I used a hammer to whack the handle of my vicegrips. Good luck, and I'd better get back to my spanish report on el Generalife de la Alhambra de Granada <_<

http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/info_seats.htm Sorry, I didn't take any pics while I was doing it, just take the seat apart and press the buttons and you'll see what the problem is.

in my bmw new taillight gaskets solved the problem.

<_<

line the inside of your trunk overnight with paper towels, and see where the leak is.

Oil/filter every 3,000 miles (use the right viscosity!!!) brake/clutch fluid anually coolant bianually new pads every 30,000 miles Every 4 years or 50,000 miles: 1. Timing belt and tensioner 2. Water pump and gasket 3. Thermostat 4. All drive belts 5. All water hoses 6. All vacuum hoses 7. All rubber gas hoses 8. Fuel filter 9. O2 sensor 10. Valve cover gasket/with 4 rubber dams 11. Adjust valves and new plugs (valves adjusted from every 15,000 to 20,000 miles with new plugs and gasket and rubber dams) 12. Dist. cap and rotor 13. air filter 14. Change tranny and differential oil (an automatic may be need to be serviced more) Other misc. things that should be checked ocasionally: tires (tire pressures too) fan clutch suspension exhaust system guibo (flex disk in the driveshaft) A/C charge fuel pump wheel bearings and many, many other things that would take too long to list here. Here is the official e30 maintenance table if you want to look at it. http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/data...0006&Section=14 If you neglected almost any of these things, the car would still be reliable, but not to the degree that it would be if properly mantained.