ArmyofOne
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Posts posted by ArmyofOne
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Actually the starter motor is located in the valley between the cylinder banks and is accessible only after the intake manifold has been removed. It is almost impossible to see before the manifold is off.
your right, i forgot. though...you have to wonder...who the *BLEEP* put it there? and what the *BLEEP* were they thinkin?
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Alright, i brought the car home tonite, and the difference is ASTOUNDING. nothing short of a miracle. my transmission is now working fatastically, the entire front end is tighter, more responsive.
the steering wheel is centered. as i drove the 45+miles back home in silent splendor, i thought to myself "I'm not selling this car". :D Popping up over 100 mph from time to time, the lex only got smoother.
to think this car drove this good in 1990 is just nothing short of miraculous. as a result of jason doing my work, i will proudly sport 2 "JP Importz" Decals on the side or rear of my ride, i havent decided which yet...
I was sad to have to stop driving this:
but glad to get my smooth steering lex once again.
another very satisfied JPI customer!
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Why aren't you doing some of that yourself army? You sound well qualified to do some of that....plugs & wires, intake cleaning... Doing the rack is hard though since there are alignment issues.
Man, JPI has some very reasonable labor rates, I wish I was close!
all comes down to time my friend. when you spend $70+ hours a week in an office, then 15 hrs a week in a classroom, you really dont have tme.
also there is the issue of having to fight to get a car if i do it myself (my mom needs the chrysler and my dad needs the truck).
i could have done every bit of it except the alignment, which i would have had done around the corner.
the plugs wires and intake cleaning was more a "last minute, because he had it apart anyway" kind of thing.
woo-hoo! i get to pick it up tonite! ill be sure and post on here as soon as i get home! :D
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Its just lower quality. Both leathers are coated.
Now in 2001 Lexus moved to an uncoated leather...
i know its lower quality but it is still nice, make no mistake! LOL. the drivers seat is soft and supple (i said supple :D ) that is to say its worn in, but the back seats never get used....good and hard.
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I believe the Jagua was 2003
nope, it has to be changed. the way those transmissions are designed is similar to lexus in that they are very soft shifting. the process of shifting soft generates alot of heat. it has to have a dipstick, its probably just hidden under a cover or something knowing jaguar.
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Don't worry. The pump is out already. I put the cleaned up pump in the tank....the car started I knew the pump was the problem. I pulled it back out and am awaiting the arrival of a new one. I don't think I ran it for more then 30 seconds, just long enough to unhook the jumper on the diagnostic box and establish that the ecu worked. It won't be driven until the new pump is installed. It sounded pretty bad, I don't think it would make it to the end of the driveway.
How much should I be paying for a new pump? Lexus is checking the price and availabilty for me now. Is their a better source?
maybe me. :D Hang on and i will check.
EDIT:
FUEL PUMP, LS400, Aisan 90-94 List Price: $329.30 Your Price: $246.98
FUEL PUMP, LS400, Denso 90-94 List Price: $318.61 Your Price: $238.96
probably the best i can do ya.
EDIT again: bet you are wishin it was the relay:
FUEL PUMP RELAY, LS400 90-94 List Price: $63.13 Your Price: $47.35
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Hey all, when trying to find rear shock absorbers for my car, everywhere I've called has had to tell me I need to take it in to get checked out, as there are two different types that come with a 93 es300.
Can anyone tell me how to check this myself?
yes, there are serviceable (not sealed) and non serviceable (sealed). as to how to tell the difference...im not entirely sure on lexus. however, if it were another car, (a domestic) i could tell you.
beyond that i can only tell you, the sealed ones you throw away and replace, and the non sealed ones you can just have fixed most of the time.
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I'm not sure how common it is in the states, so forgive me if I seem to talk down to you all.
Due to the high petrol prices, and the distance I have to drive every day, I'm strongly considering converting my car to run on LPG (gas) instead of petrol. Given current prices, this would mean I would save 60 - 70% on fuel costs.
Does anyone here have any experience with this sort of thing? I used to have a car on gas, which ran fine. There is a subtle power loss, but that doesn't really concern me as I rarely put the foot down.
Any ideas you have at all would be appreciated.
Cheers :)
- Gav
this has not been done on any lexus as far as i know. it woudl require alot of custom fabbing your own parts.
take a look at a taurus or mondeo LPG system, and this wil give you an idea from where to start. also, some of those parts can be used.
the conversion will be expensive, as there are no kits,so you have to ask yourself, is it really worth the savings? or rather, are you really saving anything.
^and yes, i know the above cars are fords, but they both have transverse mounted V6's and this will give you an idea/basis to go on. looking at it on paper is a complete wast of time. you probably wont learn anything. the only way is to dissassemble and reassemble one, to get the full effect. this is uncharted territory AFAIK on lexus, good luck.
EDIT: you know, now that im thinking about it, there may be a japanese kit for the camry...could be retrofitted...
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"sealed" in the sense that it's never supposed to be changed just like Audi. I don't agree but they don't even have a dipstick to check the level.. you have to do that from underneath the car.
Bob
this was audi and jaguars attempt to generate revenue forthe dealers. unfortunately, it has to be changed, but most people cant do it. peopel see no dipstick and think, o its sealed, it doesnt have to be changed. i assure you, this is hardly the case. even if the fluid was synthetic, itwill still burn, it will just take longer to do it. what year audi and jag?
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Thanks for becoming gold, use the gallery in good health! Nice IS!
i need to join someday when money permits...ahh the thinsg we do for our cars *cringes while writing JPI $1300 check for repairs performed and services redendered* :cries:
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Hey...I started to notices that my 99RX300 front seats are starting to get a lot of creases and lines in the leather. It looks terrible...on the seat area. I'm worried that the leather will start to crack..Is there anything I can put on the leather to prevent any more creases/lines on the leather before it cracks/rips?
Hello...
There are many threads on this topic that recommend Lexol leather treatment to keep your leather looking top-notch. I use it a couple of times a year and the leather on my 99 ES looks brand new.
I purchase mine at Pep Boys.
wondering here guys, is the leather in my concorde of a different type than that of lexus? i woudl think so, it feels different...harder.
would lexol protect it the same way?
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Stand down trooper.
First off let me say that it is hard to compete with 20 years L/T/S experience. Second, my lil bro is for the second time in 10 years in Iraq in the midst of the shiznit. Since you go by "army of one" I assume you are active duty. Thanks for serving. Oppinons are like assh#@es and everyone has one. Especially on the net. You might be right and I wrong....who knows. Don't ever take anything on the Net to heart. SK performance is laughing at my dead cats comment not you. No one is trying to p!&& in your cherios. Trying to fix a car via the internet is an act of total futility. The dude with the LS400 starter issue might have corroded battery contacts, and we assume he is savy enough to check this first......your comments about smacking the starter are right on, but he may never try it if he is a Suit wearing highbrow investor. I and everyone else welcomes your comments. I have more to lose than anyone by commenting and being wrong because IFixEm. Hell if I had a crystal ball I would work for Meyrl Lynch not Lexus.
you have a PM Ifixem.
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*deleted by ArmyofOne*
You got a problem with me SK, pm me. im done in this thread
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The same thing happened to the previous owner of my '98. The starter motor was the going bad, and the Dealership installed a new one for a Dealer bargain price of about $950. Took care of the problem. Perhaps someone here knows how to help you test it, or if there is a starter solenoid which would be a cheaper fix? Good luck.
Shhhh....be vevey vevy quiet, I'm hunting starters. Pop the hood and have someone listen, or turn off the fan, radio etc and roll your window down. Do you hear one muffled "click" when it should start? Lex/Toy/Scion starters are notorious for smoking the solenoid contacts. Pitting on the contacts prevents sufficient current flow to engauge the "turny part" of the starter. Are you mechanicaly inclined? if so remove the soleniod contacts and replace them. If not whip out the visa. Do not buy aftermarket toyota/lexus starters.....they rarley last very long. While the 2 month old part is under warranty, the $120 an hour labor is not. You have been warned.
if there is a "flat spot" in the starter, you can get out, tap it with a screwdriver, and try it again and it may start.
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Ok, It runs.
I opened the bolts on the fuel rail and got nothing. I put a length of hose on the metal line inside the tank and blew air through it. It bubbled out at the rail so I knew the line wasn't blocked.
I took the pump out of the tank and hooked it up to a spare battery. I could see the impleller spin at about 5 rpm and the pump started to smoke!! I took the pump off the bracket and pulled it apart. Inside it was full of gum and varnish. I soaked it in carb cleaner and worked the motor until it spun freely. I put it back together and tried it again. This time the pump spun fast, I popped it back on the bracket and put it back in the tank. Hooked up the battery and fuel sprayed everywhere at the rail, I tightened everything up and the car started.
So it in fact was the pump. The ECU is fine, its running without the jumper on the diagnostic connector. The pump is noisy as heck now....I will have to buy a new one this week and put it in, I don't think my repair is long-term.
Daffy: If you have never been in the tank I would suggest you open it up and take a look. I found at 350 000 there was no rust or gum in the tank. But the filter screen on the pump was glazed up, and some how my pump was full of gum.
Thanks for all the input. :D
DO NOT DRIVE THAT CAR ANOTHER INCH...DO NOT EVEN START IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if the fuel pump smoked, that means there may have been a spark at one point, somewhere. that also means that you could explode. i wouldnt move it until you have a chance to fix it. dont even start it. if the pump is noisy, it probably only has a few hours of life left anyways. some pumps make noise (most notable chevy silverado/tahoe/subruban/k5blazer/escalade/yukon platforms fuel pumps, you can hear them INSIDE the backseat of some models at idle.
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not sure with a es250 but with a 92-96 their is a 1 1/2 inch peice of metal for the front seats to bolt on so water would not get from the front to the back and if it did lose coolant it would pool in the front seat if by chance it got by it then you would have a soaked front seat and reas as well as no stereo as it would burn the amp under the seat
didnt think about that, however, the amp in the ES250 isnt under the seat, its in the trunk, mounted to the under side of the rear deck, in between the rear deck speakers. :D if its not, then i dont have an amp, and i could have installed my stereo months ago.
which may very well be the case BTW.
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a malfunctioning heater core leaking in the back seat?
you may have a bolt holding the seat back missing which has broken through the painted rubber inner fenderwell.
with no bolt the water will seep under the rear seats when the car is driven in the rain
*sigh* no SK.
LOL, the heater core springs a leak, and water is only found in the back seat. there may be water in the front. under the carpet. it may be running back there from under the dash, and justy collecting back there.
use your head man! :D
and yes steviej, i was simply offering itas a suggestion. i did say could. i said he shoudl check the a/c drain first.
i have seen cars with ruptured heater cores leaking into the back seat, via the process described above.
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go back to Autozone and see if you can't retrieve your good sensor from whatever trach can you tossed it in. It may be a little dirty digging, but you would dig if someone told you there was a $100 bill in the trach can.....I know I would.
It is worth a phone call to Autozone at least, try to speak with the service person that was with you when you swapped it out. Your discarded sensor will/should say Denso on it.
steviej
PS, I don't think you can return the new one in use because it is an electronic part and Autozone I don not think will reshelve it.
i cant agree with you there steviej!
i would have to just consider it preventative maintenance...LOL. -
Question... My 93 LS 400's suspension relaxes at night. When ever I park the car for over 5 hours I come out and find the back of my car looks lowered. I have done no modifications to the suspension, wierd thing is when I put the key in the ignition and start it the auto suspension slowly raises back to the normal height. Is this normal or is my auto suspension malfunctioning??
not normal for only one end to do this. it seems you may have a few thousand dollar repair ahead of you in the near future, but there is the option of converting to a normal suspension for 1/4 of that price. (200 instead of 2000 dollars).
take it to a mechanic, or if you have one, a good dealer to have it diagnosed. if you only have to buy 2 air struts, it shoudlnt be as much of a wallet killer.
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When I had this problem in my '97, it turned out to be a plugged AC drain.
could also be a malfunctioning heater core, but check the a/c drain first.
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The LS430 came out in 2001, so it'd be 98-00 LS400 or 01+ LS430 ;)
thanks steve LOL. i always get the years mixed up.
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Sorry I'm new to this whole thing......Lexls I knew I should have typed that differently
. I disconnected the yellow cased (pump) wire and tested the hot terminal (black wire). So with everything normal I get no voltage at the terminal the pump hooks to. When I jump the fp to the B+ on the diagnostic connector I get 12v at the back. The pump gave me 2.2ohms resistance, so its ok? I guess I have a bad pump ecu?(sorry for the following bad description) Now the "fuel rail" I assume to be under the black plastic covers on each side of the engine, just above the valve covers? There is a 14mm (if I remember correctly) bolt with alloy washers that has a hose hooked to it (like a motorcycle brake hose) just to the rearside of the engine lift hook on the passenger side of the car. This looks to be attached to the fuel rail? Should I crack this open and crank the car?
Daffy: The car was running fine with no noticable noise from the fuel pump. It just wouldn't start one day. Pumps from the dealer look to be worth a couple of bucks. I would wait until it goes. If your lucky like I was it will die in the garage.
there is an easier way. i keep forgetting you have an LS400. there shoudl be a cold start injector on your engine. it shoudl be in the upper intake manifold, it will hae a fuel line going to it. pull it off and DONT CRANK THE CAR, have a friend turn the key to the ON position (where all the lights come on and the door ding thing rings incessantly LOL).
if you cant locate the CS-i, try the Fuel Pressure Regulator line. shoudl have the same effect.
scratch that, you have no cold start injector. so try the fuel presssure regulator approach.
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If I had to replace the Lexus, I'd look around for another used one. I saw a 192 LS 400 in the paper here. Said perfect condition and 87,000 miles, $6900 If I was going to buy a new car it would be a Toyota Corolla LE or S. IF I had the money, which I don't right now, I would get a new, black LS430 but only if I could pay cash.
98-2001 LS400 or a 2002+ LS430 on 20" giovanni chrome wrapped in perelli rubber!
otherwas id like a 95LS4 please.
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Why aren't you doing some of that yourself army? You sound well qualified to do some of that....plugs & wires, intake cleaning... Doing the rack is hard though since there are alignment issues.
Man, JPI has some very reasonable labor rates, I wish I was close!
all comes down to time my friend. when you spend $70+ hours a week in an office, then 15 hrs a week in a classroom, you really dont have tme.
also there is the issue of having to fight to get a car if i do it myself (my mom needs the chrysler and my dad needs the truck).
i could have done every bit of it except the alignment, which i would have had done around the corner.
the plugs wires and intake cleaning was more a "last minute, because he had it apart anyway" kind of thing.
i would have to just consider it preventative maintenance...LOL.
. I disconnected the yellow cased (pump) wire and tested the hot terminal (black wire). So with everything normal I get no voltage at the terminal the pump hooks to. When I jump the fp to the B+ on the diagnostic connector I get 12v at the back. The pump gave me 2.2ohms resistance, so its ok? I guess I have a bad pump ecu?
91 Ls400 Won't Start-no Fuel
in 90 - 00 Lexus LS400
Posted
yeah but its not lexus, or its remaned, these are NEW. :)
but i dont blame you. i just offered the best that i can. :)