ArmyofOne

chill out dude.

a tune up+timing belt/waterpump will be around $700-$1,000. depends where you go.

change your PCV valve while you are there, if yu dont, you will end up with lots of leaks like mine has. that valve is there to vent excess pressure from the engine. if it clogs, the pressure pushes the seals out and causes leaks. the part cost less than $10 and can literally save your engine.

as for a TRD air filter, no point.

I had the exact same problem with my 91 ls. I read somewhere about a valve that would go bad on the power steering pump, which would then cause power steering fluid to be sucked into the engine. At startup smoke would roll out of the exhaust and then clear up. The pump would whine and I was constantly adding fluid. I could never find any signs of leaking. I went to the parts department at the Toyota dealer and ordered the valve ($90). You can get it off without removing the alternator. I used what is called a crowsfoot (17mm). It is basically the open end of a box-end wrench with a place to insert a socket wrench. I used a 3 inch extension and got the valve off in no time. Leo is right about covering your alternator, I didn't do it before removing the valve and fluid leaked all over it. 1 week now and still no leaks, smoke or whine.   THIS FORUM RULES!!!

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how the hell can you suck fluid into the engoine? the hoses dont connect to the engine anywhere. there isnt any way for it to get in.

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Let me take a stab at it.

From what I understand the valve is simply a pressure activated vacuum switch that speeds up the engine idle when it encounters high PSI as when the wheel is turned at low engine speeds. It acts just like a bad transmission vacuum modulator will when it goes bad, tranny fluid (in this case PS fluid) will get sucked into the engine if the diaphragm within is ruptured.

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what im getting at, is the power steering system is a closed sytem. or at least it is in every car i have ever worked on.

this includes my current one.

VGR, I agree completely with you.  But that's the thing I don't get, the previous owner was a commercial real estate lending outfit and the president owned the car. I know him, he's an older man who drove like it. He used it when he had to hit the road for a property inspection, so the miles were all highway. I've had it for 9k miles, and I drive it like a boat, not a jetski. That is the whole reason why I got rid of my 01 Maxima SE for it, I don't drive like a speed freak and was tired of the ride a speed freak type car gave. The dealer told me the back carrier bushings were shot, but he also said my motor mounts were fine, which they were not. I think just the age of the car is wearing out the softness of the rubber mounts. The motor mounts looked like pancakes and sent a lot of engine noise into the cabin. I think I'll start with the rear carrier's and new strut rods all around. I'd rather just bite the bullet now in one large lump, then have to deal with this every month.

Any suggestions on the drive shaft causing a wobble? Is this common? or should I be looking at the differential mounting instead? I've got new bushings for the differential mount, just not installed.

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i say fix it. if every other aspect of the car has been maintained, you can go another 200K without worry, as many LS owners do. Blake has 250K (or thereabouts) and just replaced the strut rods for the first time.

I had the exact same problem with my 91 ls. I read somewhere about a valve that would go bad on the power steering pump, which would then cause power steering fluid to be sucked into the engine. At startup smoke would roll out of the exhaust and then clear up. The pump would whine and I was constantly adding fluid. I could never find any signs of leaking. I went to the parts department at the Toyota dealer and ordered the valve ($90). You can get it off without removing the alternator. I used what is called a crowsfoot (17mm). It is basically the open end of a box-end wrench with a place to insert a socket wrench. I used a 3 inch extension and got the valve off in no time. Leo is right about covering your alternator, I didn't do it before removing the valve and fluid leaked all over it. 1 week now and still no leaks, smoke or whine.  THIS FORUM RULES!!!

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how the hell can you suck fluid into the engoine? the hoses dont connect to the engine anywhere. there isnt any way for it to get in.

Make sure you don't strip the lines.  You will know what i mean 

                 JPI

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heh, i saw the lines are a little tricky, but are they hard or soft lines? they look like hard lines to me.

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They are stainlees steel lines. The poblem with these is they were overtorqued at assembly. The line with the 14mm male fitting will have slightly rolled threads. It breaks free with some effort, turns easily about 2 times and then locks up. It is hard to turn for about 2 twists and then frees up again. Same issue upon assembly because the damage is already done. Go slow and use a 14mm flarenut crowfoot from underneath (wheel opening) if you have one. Start the fitting by hand and don't get frustrated. The top fitting(banjo bolt) is tight but nothing to wory about here. Be sure and replace the 2 washers that should be supplied with a quality filter.

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i will do that. will PB blaster help the nuts turn at all?

I have a ES250 and I am not getting any heat from the car. When I turn the heat on its just cool air. I have the thingy turned all the way to the hot part. What could be the result of this? What should I check? Any suggestions would be greatful. Thanks.

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the blowers are working. so the next thing to check would be the selector switch itself. if you had set ti to cold and it stuck there, it could be that. pull it out and look at the switch, there should be a spring inside, if that has broken, then it wont work, it will stick on cold (or vent).

other things to check are the heater core.

Thanks for the welcome.  I should have sent my email before purchasing and selecting the garage (labor).

I am purchasing KYB struts and mounts from Tirerack.  I decided to reuse the stock springs.  Price for struts and mounts were $75 more then what you paid when shipping is considered.

Alignment is the same at $65, but the install labor they are getting is $420, so $160 more then you paid.  So grand total, I am getting this strut job for $235 more then you paid (that could have been new springs).

I have done quite a bit of work looking for a good deal.  I have save quite a bit of money by shopping around and buying my own parts.  Looks like I could have done better.  I think it has a lot to do with location.  I need to get the work done in the "high rent" district and I think that really makes a difference.  Oh yeah, did I mention, they have a free pickup and delivery service (free for $235).

Oh well, appreciate your input.  Actually maybe I am doing OK, when you consider also getting the lower control arms replaced for just under $300.  Of course, the risk here is "aftermarket" ebay control arms???

It goes in the shop 2.17 so I'll keep the board posted.

Dan

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IMO, i woulnt use stock springs if the KYB shocks will lower the car. (you didnt say they would, just thought i would throw that out there)

Thankya thankya.

So now I'm going to do some things that I was a little unsure about doing since I didn't own the car. I'm going to improve my satellite radio with a VAISTECH aux in adapter and a new antenna mounted on the roof, install that 2005 ES license plate trim with the chrome strip, and might look into getting factory chrome wheels maybe this spring.

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you have a lexus frame on there now? if so, im accepting donations/paying for one... :)

congrats. i know what you mean about rattle free. mine is 15 years old and STILL no rattles. :D

wish i could just write a check fr $24.5k.

well, i could, but i would have to leave the country right after doing so...

At the risk of sounding like a shill for Sewell Lexus of Dallas,  here goes:

Yesterday morning, my wife is on her morning commute in her 2001 LS.  She calls me to ask about some lights that are showing that she had not seen before.  I am in Boston on a business trip (don't you love how negative stuff happens when you are away on business?).  The master caution light is illuminated, check engine is illuminated, VSC OFF and the car is not running as well as it usually does.

I take down the symptoms and phone John O'Keefe, Sewell Lexus Assistant Service Manager.  He immediately wants to know some more info to determine whether the car is safe to drive....once we determined that it was, we discussed options.  I told him that it was impossible for my wife to take the car to Sewell as her work situation is very difficult....The following is what they did for us.

Within 30 minutes of our call, they delivered a 2004 ES-330 to my wife's office and carted away the LS.  They called her late last evening to report that the crankshaft sensor was malfunctioning and needed to be replaced.  She told him of some other minor annoyances and asked him to look at them as well.  Early this afternoon, the LS was delivered back to my wife's office and the loaner taken back.  All is well and my wife is happy.

This kind of customer service, along with incredible engineering and build quality, is what I had been hoping for in my years of desiring an LS.  The fact that Sewell Lexus will take care of everything, when I am on the road, is worth the price of admission to the Lexus Experience!

Thanks for letting me share this experience.

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where int he metroplex ar eyou? email me at:

armyof1_2006@yahoo.com.

maybe we can meet up sometime. B)

Make sure you don't strip the lines.  You will know what i mean 

                JPI

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heh, i saw the lines are a little tricky, but are they hard or soft lines? they look like hard lines to me.

I should only keep my house as clean as I keep my car.  I also look at it this way.  A "New Car" that I would be "happy" driving, with the power and comfort I want would cost me at least $400.00 a month in payments.  And it would be loosing a lot of value every year.

My 91 LS cost me $6,000.00 a little on the high side but a fair price as it was my dad's car.  I have had it one year, and 20 to 30 thousand miles.  Other then gas and servicing I have not spent a dime on it till now.

I got nailed 100.00 buck to replace a front brake line.  Now a tune up doing it myself so lets say $200.00 for plugs and wires, and that is good for 60,000 miles.  And I need to fix the Idle valve.  I may have to replace it at $600.00

Spending $1,000.00 on repair work a year on any "used" car is not out of line to keep it in top shape. 

And the car is now worth $4,500.00, so I'm out $2,500.00 for having and using the car for a year and a half.  How much would I be out on a new car with the car payments, loss of value, and extra insurance cost???  A lot more?

I bought my 84 Saab 900 turbo used with 90,000 miles on it.  I paid $6,000.00.  It now has 300,000 + miles on it.  3 years ago I had it appraised as cars of it's age and condition were very hard to find, and if totaled again, it would make dealing with the insurance company not so hard.  It appraised out for almost $7,000.00.  And in fact It got hit about six months later.  The insurance company totaled it, and with me keeping the car, they paid me $6,000.00.  And during the time I was waiting to settle with them I paid $3000.00 to have the car completely restored.

I'm getting ready to have it appraised again.  It should be up to about $9,000.00

So if you keep that car in good shape and running.  You get the un of having it, and your investment starts to pay off.....

If I clean up the Lexus I will have it appraised every two to three years.  Should it get hit, the appraisal cost of $100.00 to $200.00 is cheep, because then the insurance company has to shut up and pretty much is stuck with the appraised value.

B)

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agreed. i had a ford contour that wasnt exactly an easy to find car. it was a first run serires. job #14. a company car given to my dad with 2 miles on it by a friend who worked for ford. that car went 384,991 miles, in which time i replaced a clutch and a fuel pump...that was it. it was mine for 250K of those almost 400,000 miles. i was going to have it appraised, when i got it in 2000, it was only worth about $2300. when i totalledit, it was almost worth $4,000. that car was 14/500 cars made for that purpose. i explained it once, lt me see if i can find it...

There were only 500 contour GL's made in 1994 "sold" as 95's. This was an early realease for company cars. They were given to select employees on the roster, most were given to the R&D Team that developed the CDW-27 Platform.  Of those 500 only 150 had the four cylinder (mine did). and of those 150, only 50 had a four cylinder with an MTX (manual transaxle, mine did) and of those 50, only 22 had Mocha Ghost Metallic Paint. (its a gold that changes to a goldish silver in the sun) and of those 22 with mocha ghost, only 14 of them are still on the road today. and of those 22, only 4 are in the state of Texas. My contour was built in 6/1994 in kansas city missouri.

there it is. :D

a cars value really will go up if gieven enough time. now imagine what your saabs value would be if it only had 80K or so on it.

  You have to be totally nuts and out of your mind to get attached to a car.  It is just a piece of metal.  If it's been hit, or getting expensive.  Dump it and get a new one!... At least that is what my friend have told me over and over and over... Again...

I have an 84 Saab.  It has been hit more then I want to think about.  It has been declared a total 3 times by insurance companies.  I bought the salvage rights from them and rebuilt the car.  I still have it.  300,000 + miles and looks almost new, inside and out (My friends remind me, I have replaced a lot of the car and more then once).  I should say goodbye to it, but can't really bare the thought.  I just really like the car.... OK, it is more then "Like".

Oh, what is it with uninsured drivers hitting nice cars!  All three times I got nailed by some jerk with no license and no insurance.  Two times I was stopped at a traffic light (you know, a red light), and got re-ended by one of those brain dead folk.

In fact got smacked in the Lexus.  Only one time, so fair.  But it was a guy with no license, no insurance, and he rear ended me as I sat in traffic!

I have had my 91 LS 400 for about a year and a half.  I keep it extremely well maintained mechanically.  It needs some body work and paint.  It spent most of it's life in Los Angeles, and the body and paint show what the folks in Los Angeles can do to a car in a parking lot with there doors, and carts!

I have been resisting the voice in my head to comply restore the car.  Because if I do, I will never part with it.......

Hay I even get upset when the 4x4 gets a scratch on it from 4 wheeling, and that is about the only thing I use the truck for!, That and pulling the boat.  It's the only reason I bought the truck.  But I fixed it up, and now I'm "Involved with it".

I'm afraid I'm losing that battle on the Lexus.  More likely then not, I'll totally clean it up, because that is what I do with the cars I own.  Or should I spend the bucks on a psychiatrist ?????

:P

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you arent nuts man, im that way too. my cars have to be perfect, as they are an extension of me. how i keep my automobile reflects on how i keep myself and my life.

do clean it up. it will run forever. im doing that with mine now...i have so far spend $300 more than the cars total value. and i wouldnt have it any other way.

Whoa..driving with the windshield wipers on is the 2nd most distracting thing while driving    ?  That's unsettling considering that we use that to see the road while it's raining.  Interesting...

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Yep, thats because of how our system of visual perception works. We automatically focus on whats nearest to us in the direct center of our visual field and we automatically focus on the thing that seems to be moving the fastest or moving the most inside the visual field. Thats why heads up displays are so bad, because people THINK they're watching the road when in reality they are focused on the readout projected onto the windshield and thus, have accidents. Wipers cause much of the same phenomenon because the wiper itself is moving on the glass, closer in our visual field than the roadway, and its moving the most compared to the road, cars around us, etc.

I don't have access to Ovid anymore but I'll see if I can get an e-copy of his study.

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That would be an interesting study to read about. Hope you can get access to it Steve.

Josh,

You plan to try and visit the woman at the hospital or are you just going to call her next week like you planned?

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i cant get any info out of anyone, i did call her office and she is at baylor medical center. but thats all i could get. ill just call again next week. she will return to work eventually. I would like to meet her under better circumstances though.

:D

By the way, I've been reading some of the other posts, it sounds like you've got one sweet pad! Pool and all! Nice!!

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does the direction the wheel stays pointed depend on the last turn made?

what i am saying is on mine, when i made a right turn, the wheel was off centered to the right, when i made a left turn it was off centered to the left. it would stay this way until i made another turn.

it sounds liek your rack and pinion may be on the way out. but this could also be a wheel bearing. does it make any kind of groaning or squeal noises? also could be a bad sturt mount/decompressed strut.

to check the strut mount bushings, open the hood and look at the strut towers, if the rubber inserts are dry rotted, then they are probably no good.

but have the strut rods checked first. i cant believe the dealer didnt spot the issue.

PM user "blake918" and see what he thinks, describe your wobble to him. he just had the strut rods replaced.

and thanks for the compliments, its a pile of bricks!

I was wondering if anybody has changed fuel filters in the ES250? I was lookin' to save a few dollars and do it myself? Anybody know a good place to get one? Maybe the dealer? NAPA? Also, a write or something would be cool. I've done it in a 300zx. Thanks.

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its under the air filter box.

have fun! :D

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Josh,

Have you change it out yet?

JPI

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no but i pulled it out....just to see how bard it woudl be to get too, not bad at all. about 15 mins to get to it.

ill get around to it eventually.

Army,

What a story    I think you did some great, fast thinking!!!

Did you open the drivers door to get to the woman?  Unbuckle the seat belt?  Just wondering.......

I think that was a good move just keeping her in the car.....probably warmer, certainly more comfy than on the pavement. 

Well done!!

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i couldnt open the drivers side door, thats where the car got hit and the ranger had tangled up the metal. i had to go in and out fo the passenger door. i didnt remove the seatbelt, i figured since its mechanisim had locked it would help to keep her in place and still. also i couldnt unbuckle it because i would have riskced further injry, her hips wer smashed between the center consold (which didnt give at all) and the drivers side door which was pushed in a good distance...

I have the same car, same problem.  Well, actualy 1990 with about 160,000 miles.  I know it sounds rediculous, it seems like the P/S fluid vanishes, it doesn't show any signs of leeking . . . trust me I've been looking.  We add P/S fluid every week almost, more when it's cold out believe it or not.  When it is cold out, if the P/S fluid is not kept to the max, that groaning and whirring you mentioned was very bad in my car.  Would happen every morning for about 5 minutes and was ok after it warmed up.  The groaning durring turns would still happen although the whirring noise stopped. You can feel that the steering column is stiff as well.  Since we seem to have been pooring money into the car, we're putting off getting the pump replaced.  My best temporary fix to sugest for you is to add fluid, and keep it full.  This does it for me.

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when you first start it up, iopen the hood, get out and pull the cap off the power steering resivoir for a second and then replace it. ill bet your noise goes away. unfortunately, this si something o have to do EVERY morning in my ES.

if you are near to JPI, i would HIGHLY reccomend his services.

that was for you Tmccormick, you are in dallas, and JPI is right around the corner, in garland. he will save you TONS! and he does insane work. also, his work wont void your warranty.

Would they also cause a wobble when accelerating? Especially felt in the steering wheel. I just had it balanced and ailigned at dealership. Strut rods? Are they the #12 part in this picture I attached? Or do you mean the strut itself?

Thanks Army!

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not likely to cause a wobble when accelerating (sounds like a ball joint). let me ask you this, does your steering wheel come back to center after a turn? any excessive play in the steering at all?

and yes, #12 is the strut rod.

I was wondering if anybody has changed fuel filters in the ES250? I was lookin' to save a few dollars and do it myself? Anybody know a good place to get one? Maybe the dealer? NAPA? Also, a write or something would be cool. I've done it in a 300zx. Thanks.

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its under the air filter box.

have fun! :D

Near my home today (I was commuting home from work) there was a nasty accident directly in front of me. I was carpooling with someone (in my car), We were stopped at a redlight when I look across the intersection. I see a black nissan maxima (98 or so) doing nothing out of the ordinary, pulling out to make a right hand turn onto Western Center blvd. from Silver Sage Dr.

Thinking nothing of it, I continue my conversation with my passenger, but i glance in the rear view mirror and see a 1998 or so ranger coming up fast in the lane next to us( 3 lane road, middle lane was empty, i was on the left and a minivan on the right), and i cut off my passenger mid sentence. The following event ensued:

Passenger: So i said to Craig that these phones have to be---

Me: Holy *BLEEP*, Shes not stopping!!

**I threw the car in park and pulled the handbrake (in case we got hit somehow) as i knew what was about to happen**

passenger: what?

me: Shes not-

****SMACK!****

The Ranger ran through the redlight and T-boned the Maxima. The Maxima was already halfway through the turn.

No Tires Screeching, nothing. just a big CRUNCH.

Now I have First aid and CPR Medical Training by the American Red Cross(i make a point to get it every year, plus its required for my jobs, but that isnt why I do it) and i already knew someone was hurt.

I immediately RAN to the crash, I mean ran, I haven't ran that fast in my life. Forgot totally about my pregnant passenger (not mine ), and took off toward the wreckage. I knew as soon as I got there, it wasnt good. I heard screaming (as in sobbing) coming from the Maxima, but since the ranger was the closest vehicle I stopped there first, the girl driving the ranger stumbled out and it took a half a second for me to realize shes fine, i instructed her to shut off her truck's engine and walk over to the median and sit down to regain herself. My passenger came over to comfort her, meanwhile, I ran to the screams. Around the hood of the ranger, where I knew it was bad. I yelled to Catherine (my passenger) to call 911, and tell them there was an Injury Accident at Western Center and Silver Sage.

as I looked further, I saw a woman, probably in her mid 20's pinned between the center console of her car and her drivers side door which was pushed in about a foot and a half. She was consious and wailing. I told her to stay calm, that help was here. I turned off the engine and looked around the car for something i could use as a brace to keep her neck still. I saw a baby blanket in the back seat (but no baby thank God!), so i used it. That B-pillar of her car hit her in the back of the head/side of the head it looked like, so i couldnt tell how much damage was done. The headrest for the seat offered protection from a direct blow to the head, most of the blood was coming from glass from the womans drivers side window shattering in her face. There was no immediate danger, Therefore i decided it was best not to move her. There was some blood, but that wasnt my concern at this point. Usually the worst ones are the injuries you cant see.(not even my $150 suede jacket was spared, but i didnt care). I wrapped the blanket up as best i could but it wasnt enough, so I told her not to move, and I turned the key back on and rolled down the passenger window. I took the keys with me and put them in my pocket. i ran over to my car and grabbed a towel out of the trunk. then i wrapped it and the blaknet together and made a brace. This all took maybe 2 minutes.

I held the woman there for another 3 minutes or so talking to her and keeping her out of shock. and i saw the paramedics round the corner about 5 blocks up. I looked over at the other driver, she seemed ok, minus some serious seat belt rash across her chest. As the paramedics rolled up, so did the police from behind. The paramedics came in and took over, thanking me for my help. and I stood over by the other driver and waited to give a statement to the police.

so did i do this right? I was told I did, but I couldnt help but think maybe there was something more i could have done. nothing prepares you for this kind of thing, honestly. but I still cant help but feel guilty/wonder what else i could have done. The Paramedic said if i hadnt acted so quicky, she coudl have died. But i just cant help but wonder...

(also, is it wrong to really want to ask that girl for her phone #) hobestly, iwanted to make sure she was alright, but some of you my not take it that way LOL. I grabbed a Busienss card of hers that was laying on the floor, looked like hers, so i grabbed it. Apparently, shes a realtor.

I will call her and ask her if she is OK in a week or so.

BTW, the second this happened, I saw that van that was in the lane across from me, take off. I guess he didnt have a drivers liscense or something. HOWEVER, it is a law in the state of Texas that all able citeznes stop to render aid at the scene of an accident, and all able witnesses are req'd to give a statement to the best of thier ability.. i took note of the make and model of the van, but thats all i got. so no help. there are millions of 1995ish ford windstars running around.

so yeah, thats what i did today.

EDIT: Speed limit on this road was 45 in case anyone was wondering, and the rangers speedo was stuck at 57mph. the driver of the truck was playing with her phone. so she didnt see the red light.

shes lucky, coming to a complete stop from almost 60 mph in a spilt second. and all she had was seat belt rash.

I need to move to Texas...

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Same here...

Glad to hear your car is driving sharp again.

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More pix of the parts replaced:

Air intake tube (fell apart in Jason's hands!!)

Sumitomo (Lexus OEM) Plug wires:

The steering wheel is finally straight!

Back at home in her spot!

Just a wild guess but try a carbon fibre looking patch you get. that would look better then the carpeted look and may be it would look a lot different then you imagined

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meh, carbon fiber is a little showy for this ES. its basically a Gen II camry (although i am finding MOST parts ARENT interchangeable). so there is no point to me in CF. but thanks for the input, worse case scenario i wil keep it in mind! :)

I've got a 95 ls400 w. 94k miles. I'm noticing the ride is starting to slip. I'm feeling all the cracks in the road now from the front and through the steering wheel. I've replaced the lower ball joints, all motor and tranny mounts too. I'm wondering if it's bushings or strut cushions? It feels loose, doesn't have that quiet and smooth feel over bumps. If I go over one of those marker lights in the road, good lord, sounds and feels like I ran over a curb. Any suggestions oh masterful ones?

Thanks!

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Strut rods. check em.

if those arent the culprit (most likely they are) move on to bigger issues, since you have eliminated all the other things that could cause this, check strut mount bushings, check for a decompressed strut, then check the Rack and Pinion. the bushinsg that hold the rack and pinion are rubber and they detieiorate over time. as they do, the rack begines to bounce on its metal support frame every time you hit a bump.

I need to move to Texas...

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there are the decals. He does do great work!

Clean it or wrecking yard. Lexus parts are nuts.

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Best i can do:

IDLE SPEED CONTROL, LS400, SC400 90-92 List Price: $697.54 Your Price: $523.16

best i can do.