ArmyofOne

Air intake sensor needs cleaning or possibly replacement. BTW: with 90K you need to get your timing chain replace soon, japanese engines self distruct when the timing chain breaks, not like American engines. ← NO...toyotas V6 uses a belt, in fact i think every toyota car engine since 1990 has used a belt. and the only interference engine on an ES is from 1999 and up with the introduction of VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing With Intellegence. im sorry, but your AIT Sensor is probably fine, as would be your MAF, neither of these would cause your symptoms, they would cause rough idle, stalling and hard starts when warm. Kyle, if your timing belt breaks, you engine stops and wont restart. you take it to a mechanic and put a new one on, and time it, starts right up. if you had an interference motor, your pistons would hit the valves and require replacement. c-c, please do research before replying. i have found that there are more interference engines in the american car world than in the Asian car world. i have been around cars my entire life, the fact is, toyota refrains from using interference engines as much as possible, its that simple. Kyle, you tranny drain and fill will not replace all fo the fluid, it will only replace 3-4 quarts at a time. there is a dipstick on the drivers side of your engine. should say "transmission" or something to that affect. Pull it out, we arent checking the level here, just the color, so the car should be off when you do this. pull the stick out and wipe it on a white towel, if the fluid is any other color that bright red do not flush, use the method above. shouldnt run more than $30 per change. just go up there at your next oil change and have it done, then do it again at the one after that. if your fluid is still strawberry red, then have it flushed and done worry about it for 20K, but this will cost about $90.

so bottom line is, you have NO FREAKING CLUE. LOL. get it out of there, if you havent done it, as far as i am concerned its factory fill. check it withthe dipstick, take the fluid and touch it to a white surface...if its any darker than burgundy, DONT flush it, have it drained and refilled. then do the same again at the next oil change, until it is back to strawberry red. then you can flush.

anybody have a connection in the insurance business? I guess Im high Risk now... My 6 month Policy at Geico is $2,757.80. thats full coverage, with $1,000 deductibles on collision and comprehensive, and state minimums on everything else, no rental reimbursement and no roadside assistance...(ill get AAA for that i suppose). so $659 for the first installment, then for every 30 days after that its $389. this is on a 1997 Lexus LS400.

On rough or imperfect roads, the sterring wanders alot. My upper control arm bushings were my first priority. I knew they were bad, because when I was doing a brake job I discovered it. With the wheel off, I could grab the control arm and wiggle it in and out. That's what causes the clunking sounds, when you go over bumps. After I took off the control arm on the left side this morning, I grabbed the axle assembly and pulled up on it. the lower ball joint can be wiggled up and down about an 1/8 of an inch! I didn't notice any play in the right side when I wiggled it yesterday. I'm going to check it again when I'm done with the left side. By the way, the Upper control arm bushing replacement is a snap, compared to the timing belt/water pump job! About 2 1/2 hours per side, and mostly tedious as opposed to difficult. John ← Steering wandering and clunking could be Rack and Pinion and Tie Rod ends.

Kyle, youhave to look at it like this. If you dont maintian it, you will be buying a new one shortly anyway. These cars arent bulletproof, they are machines and they need amintenance just like every other machine ever made. Hell, even a vacuum cleaner needs servicing every once in a while. A FULL Tune up shouldnt even be in the ballpark of $400. bring it to me and i will do it for parts. LOL. if you buy all the parts and take them to a mechanic, they can have it done for $300 at the most. if they cant,go somewhere else. as far as there being nothing wrong with the vehcile, there is something wrong with the vehcile, its gas mileage is dropping. that right there is a good indication fo what needs to be done. here is how to alleviate $300 at one time in the future: Spread it out. DO this repair, but then keep up with the maintenance from that point on... Dare i ask when the last tiem was that the tranny fluid was changed?

Do you have red cooolant in there? if not, there needs to be!

If the o2 sensor has completely failed yes the check engine light should come on. However, it might be working still, but not as well as a new one.....the o2 sensor is 9 years old now so it might be a wise idea from a preventitive maintenance standpoint. Shop around for prices for the other items mentioned.....call a Toyota dealer, Lexus dealer & a couple popular auto parts stores. If the plugs need replacing, I would suggest getting Iridiums (NGK or Denso)......I have all part nembers if you need assistance with that. Labour shouldn't take very long for a good expreenced mechanic. The back 3 plugs will be the most difficult item I would imagine. B) What brand of fuel & what 'grade' are you using for your car? Tire pressures OK? ← On an OBDI compliant car, the CEL will not come on unless the Sensor is COMPLETELY gone. on an OBD II complaint car, i have seen them come on as soon as there was any noticeable drom in gas mileage from the 02 sensor (2-3 MPG).

get the air filter and the PCV valve from autozone...cost like $20 total. then install yourself in minuts. Its not a common problem, its MAINTENANCE. change it fairly fast though, cause oil leaks are the result.

It will set you back about........ $4...serously, 4 buckaroos. It vents the excess oil pressure out of you r creankcase so that your seals dont blow out and cause oil leaks and smoke eventually. should have been replaced at 45Kish. ← Oh, and change your air filter too.

It will set you back about........ $4...serously, 4 buckaroos. It vents the excess oil pressure out of you r creankcase so that your seals dont blow out and cause oil leaks and smoke eventually. should have been replaced at 45Kish.

change your PCV valve! thats for starters, then your 02 sensors.

Thats a very good point. I forgot about the USAA loan. I doubt ill get 3.5% but i can get 5% possibly, but maybe not on a 7 year old car. SADLY, i may have to look into american made. i just dont feel like being upside down on a car for the next 10 years. if i buy a used LS, the value has already dropped substantially. If i buy, say a new mustang GT, 30K value will immeadiately become $24k when i drive it fof the lot, but i will still owe $30K. on a used LS, I Put down $7500, Finance the rest, then i have a low payment and im driving a car that wont be broken in 6 months. and i only owe $6K-$7k...The LS just seems liek the smartest move, becuase i know that if tis taken care of, it can literally last FOREVER.

$4500 thats more than my car was worth... seriously, you are letting them ream you if you have to pay that much. thast rediculous...if its under warranty then why the hell not. just dont pay that when it isnt.

I dont have TIME. i leave in 8 days (7 now) for active duty. thats barely enough time to get rid of the car i have. i am speaking in terms of when i get back, 6 months or maybe even longer. Im not getting another ES250. why bother? steve i know. i wont get it on my own, my parents will cosign for me. i didnt want them to before, because at motorola i could be laid off at any time. My dad most certianly doesnt have a hard time getting used car loans, TRUST me. we have connections in the business. :)

MY GOD, a steering rack in 45K? thats a $2000 bill easily on an ES. damned dude. I hope the LS4 i get doesnt have all these problems...

oh i totally agree, i also have a nest egg already. but we can get into that offline or in PM's. my dad has nearly perfect credit. he could go get a loan on a ferrari tommorrow and still be approved at 5.9%. i can probably get it too. but even with 9%, it wont kill me. exactly my point about financing though, i have a window here, and im going to take it. i will still have half or maybe more to throw into my IRA with my other 20K i have in there. You make a valid point, but i have to start somewhere, and a 9% interest rate i wll only raise the payments what, $35 a month. ← Here is another one, 1997, 89K miles (notsure if service done, that would be a req'ment), gold withbeige interior cost: $13,990 +895 for extended servic warranty so $14,890. at 10% interest rate, my payments would be $187.43 a month for 48 months. If i drop it to 36 months, the payment will be $238 which is still doable. matt, you want to talk abotu a floaty ride, my ES had it. you could turn the steering wheel with less than 3 lbs of pressure from the pinky, all the way around. even after the wreck.

oh i totally agree, i also have a nest egg already. but we can get into that offline or in PM's. my dad has nearly perfect credit. he could go get a loan on a ferrari tommorrow and still be approved at 5.9%. i can probably get it too. but even with 9%, it wont kill me. exactly my point about financing though, i have a window here, and im going to take it. i will still have half or maybe more to throw into my IRA with my other 20K i have in there. You make a valid point, but i have to start somewhere, and a 9% interest rate iwll only raise the payments what, $35 a month.

I dont like the IS's, tey are rattle boxes. I dont intend to blow it all on one car. you guys arent getting something LOL. i need to biuld credit, as i have none. therefore a car payment is easiest for me to do that. I found a 1998 for $18,500, with 7500 down, my payments would still be $250 a month. that i can do. i think 1998 woudl eb the lowest i woudl be willing to go unless it had REALLY low miles. under 60K preferable. but if its gonna have over 90K, it will have had the 90K service done.

eh, i dont think ceramic pads are that soft...but they chew up your rotors.

TX doesnt have that law that im aware of. i was aliscensed driver here for 3 months with no ins. you gop in to the DPS office and stand in line, they make you surrender your old DL and hand you a card with your info on it, this is your temp liscense, your real one comes int he mail in 2 weeks.

Man when i get out, i will have close to $15k in the bank, maybe more with 6 months of $2000 a month in addition to my $14K sign on bonus. add this to the fact that i wiull not have to pay any rent or food (i get meal cards and housing for free). i will have a LARGE amount of cash incoming and a small amount outgoing. i dont want to max myself out, but i will be able to afford anything at or below 30K. I know $2k a month isnt much, btu when you arent paying a mortgage and all that its alot. all i have to pay on are a car note and insurance and cell phone everything else is taken care of. 30K would be my MAX. as high as i could confortabley go. according to KBB, i can get one for around $25k (a 1998 LX). thats not bad...but its almost 8 years old... a GX is completely out of the question now, they came out in 03 and according to KBB, i can expect to pay around $45k for an 03...yikes. ← i think i found it. a 2000 LS4 can be had for around $26k. thats about right. a Brand new Kia or a Fully loaded 5 year old LS? which would you choose? looks like with a 6.71% interest rate, my payment would be $402 or so at 48 months. thats a bank breaker there...cutting it a little close...but doable. aww who am i kidding? a 200) LS400? im dreaming! it will have to be a 95-97 series. but those ECU problems scare me. HOWEVER: at 6.71% for 12 months my payment would be $89.00 a month LOL, THAT i can handle. thats if i put 10K down. and actualy, lets make $20k the money limit here...i just went over the finances, and $500 a month car payments, i would get tired of ...really quick.

Man when i get out, i will have close to $15k in the bank, maybe more with 6 months of $2000 a month in addition to my $14K sign on bonus. add this to the fact that i wiull not have to pay any rent or food (i get meal cards and housing for free). i will have a LARGE amount of cash incoming and a small amount outgoing. i dont want to max myself out, but i will be able to afford anything at or below 30K. I know $2k a month isnt much, btu when you arent paying a mortgage and all that its alot. all i have to pay on are a car note and insurance and cell phone everything else is taken care of. 30K would be my MAX. as high as i could confortabley go. according to KBB, i can get one for around $25k (a 1998 LX). thats not bad...but its almost 8 years old... a GX is completely out of the question now, they came out in 03 and according to KBB, i can expect to pay around $45k for an 03...yikes.

Thats good, i could give a care about my insurance rates at this point as USAA will discount them for being a military memebr anyways. and it wil be a good 6 months before i have to worry about insuring a car again. But when i do get another one, i will cary full coverage, im sick of starting over from scratch with nothing to work with. it was a dumb idea for me not to go with full coverage to save a measly $45 a month. :(

hmm...then why not search for the best of both worlds, what about a GX or LX?

true...hmm...that sucks...does it still go on my record if i wasnt cited? (the one the goevernment pulls fromt eh city?