GS 430

Yes: HaHaha!!, ..........the Bazookie racer! Awesome!

Anybody????

Hey there all, I am new to this forum. I recently bought a 2002 GS 430. It has 148,000 KM's and has been meticulously maintained. It is 100% stock. I would like to know what would be the best sounding exhaust for it. I DON'T want it to be LOUD, I just want a respectable rumble. What are your opinions? Are there any DON'T DO's that I should be aware of? Thanks!

The problem sounds like its caused by a weak door lock actuator (known to go bad). The extra locking sound is caused by the door lock system sensing a lock is not fully engaged to lock position. The extra bump attempts to lock the lazy actuator. This is the same sensing system that will keep locking the doors if they are forced open by a slim-jim. Lubricating the linkage and actuator may get it working again, if not, You may have to replace it.

i have a 99 gs300.im having intermittent problems with the windows and power locks.some days all works great.right now.just the drivers door front window works and no power locks.i got a new drivers master window switch so thats not the problem.i think its one wire thats intermittent.can you help me trouble shoot.i have a diagram? ill pay you for your time. Guy strat1953@aol.com 480-703-9586 Check the wires inside the rubber connector boot between the drivers door and body (hinge area). Wires will often break internally from the repetative bending of opening and closing the door. (the drivers door is almost always the cause because it gets far more use than the rest of the doors). The break may not be obvious as the copper strands will sever inside the plastic coating making the wire appear fine. The fact that the problems are intermittent is a greater indication. Try operating the windows and locks while swinging the door slowly open and closed (or push and pull on the rubber boot) to see if the problem comes and goes with door movement. I've experienced this problem with my 1993 Camry in the past. I repaired it about 6 years ago, completely fine until a few months ago. I need to repair it again. Good luck!

Replace the fuel filter, Spark plugs and air filter.

When the A/C compressor is turned on, it adds extra load to the engine. The electronic throttle receives a signal that the load at idle has increased. The ECM adds a little throttle to the engine to compensate for the load. This increases engine speed slightly when the A/C cycles on. When the A/C cycles off, the throttle is decreased slightly to return the engine to no-load idle speed (A/C off). When the A/C is on and is running normally......and this is the same for any vehicle with A/C......the A/C compressor cycles on and off to maintain the set temperature inside the car. If you let any vehicle idle with A/C on you will hear the A/C clutch engage (clicking sound), immediately followed by an increase in idle speed, and another quieter click, immediately followed by a slight decrease in idle speed. This process repeats with the A/C on. If the engine speed don't increase when needed to run the compressor, and the engine stays at its no-load idle speed, it will slow down under the strain, run rough, near stalling (maybe even stall) and the alternator will not be turning fast enough to excite and produce a charging current. This is why the battery dies in a hurry. The cause of this problem is simple on paper, but it may be tricky to find the exact cause of the problem. (ECM, A/C amplifier, poor electrical connection, Throttle control valve or IAC valve for vehicles not equipped with "Drive-by-wire"). Have a scan performed by your Lexus dealer. It will be much faster and probably cheaper in the long run, rather than replacing alternators, batteries and chasing "Might Be's". Good Luck! P.S. When an alternator runs at a stalled/excited stage, caused by slow speed and high load, it will burn out and/or suffer damage.

Sounds about right. The dealer should know best.

I wish I could say the same. We just picked up a used 330 with less than 15k miles on it and it certainly has this issue. I'm just glad to learn that I'm not losing my mind. I am going to look into the reflash. If that does not help I may have to sell the car. This issue is driving me crazy. Interestingly, I just sold my 2006 IS250 that had an awful 6 speed standard in it (terrible clutch, poor gating, and very noisy). Very disappointing for a $45k car (in Canada). Hey there, I bought a 2006 ES 330 in march of 2009. It also has a weird shift. It will give a kick or lurch if you are driving slow and let off on the pedal a little and push it again. (like when driving on a side street, parking lot or slow moving traffic) Of course it has the latest shift program, but it is not perfect. It is a shame that such a fine automobile has such an ugly glitch. I have since accepted its quirk, and to be honest, it is the ONLY one issue I have with this car. It is close to perfect........Let the pursuit continue!

Don't re-use. One time use. Not worth the risk/work/trouble.

It is a good idea to have the code cleared and wait to see if it comes back. CEL's don't always clear themselves after the problem is fixed. If the fluid change fixed it then the code shouldn't come back. If the code returns then you will know for sure that you have to take it a step further. Good luck!

...........Crank up the Nakamichi and enjoy the ride............