FatCat23

Congratulations for looking at the LS430. Since my 2003 LS430 has 250k on it and is still running great, I consider 145k just getting broken in. IMHO, front end noise is a common fact of life on this car. None of the 4 LS400s I owned had a noisy front end. I've have all the rubber bits replaced twice in my current 2003 LS430 TWICE and it's squeeking again. The O2 sensor will cause the yellow triangle, VSC and the CEL. Kinda weird it makes all those come on. While I strongly suggest you use an OEM O2 sensor I would NOT have a dealer do it. It could also be the O2 sensor heater is/has failed. Especially if a catalytic converter is failing have a private shop do the work-$350 vs $1400. See if they'll replace the O2 sensor but even if they don't I wouldn't let that scare me off (I'd have another mechanic check the codes to verify it's the O2 sensor codes showing). As I recall, the OEM O2 sensor is $140USD. IMHO, this series of LS has a "weak" transmission. I have my transmission FLUSHED every 60k mi. and still had a transmission fail at 165K. I wouldn't be afraid of the brake vibration. Look on the internet about "bedding" brakes and you can understand the most common reason for this vibration. R1concepts.com used to have some really good tech articles about "bedding" and how to fix the vibration by re-bedding your pads (basically 5-6 full panic level braking to a stop from ~70mph or until you can smell the brakes. This procedure burns off the residues that are left behind by brake pads under light to medium braking)(and no it won't hurt anything). Theres a little fan under each seat. Mine caught on fire when I didn't clean out the under-seat filter and it over heated. I'm guessing the one from the passenger side would probably fit and I keep meaning to switch it over....... LS's are amazingly good cars! 250k is the least I've ever put on one. Just change the fluids faithfully with high quality products and these cars will last a very long time.

Lexus quoted met $2200 for timing belt job alone. I have my private all Toyota mechanic do it for ~$900 ALWAYS using oem parts. If you use a private mechanic get the OEM spark plugs. They're expensive but worth every penny. If your doing brakes I strongly suggest puting on braided stainless steel lines at all four coners. Brake pedal modulation is MUCH improved! If you're going to ake your car to the dealer forall this work..... will you be my uncle? Pweese, PWEESE!

Silicone is a short-term fix so you dont have to take the sub out. But it'll only last a few months. Put in a new foam surround. Very easy to make the repair but getting the speaker out is tedious.

I'd check offset as well. If the offset isn't correct you can break studs and you'll put extra stress on your wheelbearings. Check Tire Rack as well. I got the wheels (you can see in my avitar picture) for $400 at Tire Rack.

I gotten several parts from these people. These are straight up people with good customer service: TLS Auto Recycling - OEM Used Auto Parts

Yes. Works fine. Personally, I think the Mark Levinson system sounds great. I'm an audiophile with $250 head phone and $9000 speakers in my house. I've built many sound systems, car and home and unless you are ready to spend a LOT of money it's tough to beat the ML system. If you want boomy base, or you want to brag then change the subwoofer. If you appreciate good, balanced sound then stick with the ML

I'm on my 5th LS and I've never changed a gas cap. My LS have always gone 250k or more.

I had 8x20 245/35 ZR 20 in the front and 10x20 275/30 ZR 20 on the rear of my LS430 for 5 years. I had no significant rub issues. If I had 4-5 people in the car and hit a hard bump the rears would rub. I took a 2x4 and dragged it along the inside of the rear wheel lip and gave myself a minor fender "roll" which took care of the rear rub. I still got a small rub if I bottomed out the rear suspension. The real problem with this setup was that the tire profile was to small to provide protection of the rim. I hit a 3" pothole at about 20 mph and cracked the rear rim and bent the rear sub-frame. When I moved to Alabama (:( I cracked two more rims on potholes in the freeway If you're going to use such a low profile you have to be EXTREMELY careful not to hit anything in the road. The 10x20's had increased wear on the inside of the rear tires. I came up with a way to adjust camber and toe in the rear but it involes grinding slots in the rear suspension piece. Adjstable bolts need to be ordered and installed. Even with 0 degrees of camber in the rear, I couldn't eliminate the inside wear. The dangerous issue with the 10x20 rears was the cracked and broken studs. Because the rims are SO wide it's impossible to get the correct offset so it over-stresses the studs. I broke 3. I would suggest that you go no longer than 2 years between changing out ALL the studs. The studs are ~$5 each x 10=$50 not including labor. While it is possible to change the studs yourself it's not an easy job. With the different rim widths you can't rotate the tires so you'll end up changing the rears before the fronts- and more often... If you live where the roads are smooth, the 20's look nice. But if your LS is a daily driver I'd suggest 8x19's all around.

Check the overall diameter of the new wheel/tire vs the old wheel/tire. As long as the overall diameter is the same then there is no difference except for looks. Any difference in diameter would make your speedometer inaccurate and possibly affect gas mileage. I find it hard to believe that you'd really drive an '06 with the "old" wheels. It would certainly wreck the looks. Try some place like tirerack.com. They frequently have sales. I've had four LS's so far and bought all my tires and wheels from them. I just got 245/35-20 for my '03 LS430 for $110 each. Shipping, mounting and balancing came to $155/ tire. I just got premium Bridgestone all-season tires for my daughters 95 LS400 for $130 ea. from them too. You might notice a change in handling if you change the aspect ratio, i.e. the profile of the tire. The springs and bushings are designed to work with a certain "profile." It won't be a big change though. I don't mean to sound like a hater, but if you expect to get tires for an LS for $50, you better buy a Honda......

I changed my battery as described, but not when I press the unlock button it only unlocks the passenger doors and the rear drivers side door. The only way to unlock the drivers door is to use the actual key. Any ideas on how to remedy this? Reprogram something? Thanks!