meddle

Thanks, that does show me where all of the screws are, but it doesnt really answer my question. Can I just remove the screws and pull the panel off? Or is there something else I need to know? Im sure this is a ridiculous newbie question, but well.................thats me!

I want to check out the stock speaker location. Ive found the two covered screws in front, and the other obvious screws. Is there anything else I need to know? Anything with the door handle? Just dont want any surprises if I unscrew the panel.

Unfortunately I wont get around to doing this until sometime early next year. Im pretty sure that I will be going with Andrew Vlamos' OEM spec bushings. More expensive, but dont need the regreasing that the Daizens will eventually require, and will return the car back to its original form. Smooth ride, no squeeking. I think I will just rely on springs and shocks to upgrade the handling.

www.powerhouseracing.com About $10,000 for 450 rwhp. If your current engine is in good shape, I think most people here would suggest you go na->t. About half the price and it can yield the same gains.

Im trying to fit 6.5" CDT CL-61A's up front in my '95 SC300. The stock speakers in the doors are 4". What would be the best approach for cosmetics and sound quality? I assume Ill use the stock location for the 1" tweets.

I was planning on getting the split 5 bar 18" SSR wheels for my SC300. The $2500 it would cost for wheels+tires seems like a fair price for the lightweight stylish wheels but its just outta my cost range right now while im still in school. My question is, which of the cheaper wheels are the best quality? I would like to spend $200-$250 per wheel. Which brand would you guys recomend? Ive definetely seen some 5zigens and Enkeis that I like the look of (obviously not as light as the SSR though), but I dont know anything about the build quality of these companies. Thanks Richard

$7,000!? Thats quite a steal! Congratulations.

I need some advice on the bushings. I hear great things about both the Daizens Polyurethane and Andrew Vlamos' OEM spec bushings. I also see a lot of complaints about polyeurethane bushings due to the need to grease them and squeaky ride. Are these complaints about the polyurethane bushings relevant to Daizens? Or is there something about Daizens that makes them able to overcome these problems?

The iRotors are cross drilled. I would go with the Supra upgrade though if you have wheels that can fit the larger calipers.

Ive got little 16" wheels right now and cant afford to get the lightweight 18" I want just yet. So that limits my choices of brake upgrades.

Oops, should have noticed that. Thanks. So it should look like this. Suspension ( all from TM Engineering ): $224.95 - Eibach Springs $99.95 - Daizen Control Arm Bushings, Front $159.95 - Daizen Control Arm Bushings, Rear $69.95 - Tokico Front X 2 $69.95 - Tokico Rear X 2 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- $764.65 + tax/shipping

This is my shopping list at the moment. Let me know if you notice anything I might be doing wrong in choice of vendors, or the components themselves. Brakes ( Front rotors are on their last turn ): $129.00 - Front Rotor ( www.iRotors.com ) $25.00 - Zinc Plating ( www.iRotors.com ) $89.00 - EBC Greenstuff Pads, Front ( www.tirerack.com ) $123.00 - Stainless Steel Lines ( www.tirerack.com ) ~$60 - OEM rear pads ( wherever ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- $426.00 + tax/shipping Suspension ( all from TM Engineering ): $224.95 - Eibach Springs $99.95 - Daizen Control Arm Bushings, Front $159.95 - Daizen Control Arm Bushings, Rear $69.95 - Tokico Front $69.96 - Tokico Rear -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- $624.75 + tax/shipping Am I missing anything? Would you advise me against any of these purchases?

Ah, ok. That makes a lot more sense.

Im sorry for my ignorance, but are the bushings just a part of the control arm? Id get under my car and try to figure it out, but its raining.

http://www.tmengineering.net/suspension/br...en/make/sc.html Im going to buy the eibach lowering springs with the tokico shocks. Ive heard that it would be best to replace the control arms on my high mileage car while im at it. Im a little confused about which of those components I will need though......

I bought my '95 with 140k miles. Bought it for $7300 + ttl and dropped another $1,000 on timing belt/water pump/cam seals/o-rings/spark plugs, and the 60k lexus tune up. Runs like a champ, not a single engine leak. If I wasnt planning on turboing the engine, or putting her on the bottle Id expect to be running strong until 300k.

Springs and shocks, as well as some of your brake options: http://www.lexuspros.com/lexusproshome.htm Some more brake goodies: http://www.tirerack.com If I had the money to upgrade to 17" wheels that allow for large calipers I would do the Supra TT brake upgrade. I believe it is the best bang for your buck. Since Im a poor college student for the next year I think I will just be doing the slotted/drilled stock sized rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads for the front, OEM for the back. Stainless steel brake lines. Eibach pro kit springs and tokico or kyb shocks.

" They can be bought for the sc or supra. But the springs and struts must be both a set for one or the other, not mixed." AWJ, sorry for being dense, but im not really sure what you meant by that. I mean I know that I need to buy 4 spring and 4 shocks......but is there something else?

AWJ?

If my car were a little younger I would definetely go with the F-max or Toyomoto kit. The consensus seems to be that this route is cheaper, less complicated and in most cases actually yields as much if not more power.

For just the timing belt?

I went through a lot to get my timing belt changed since my harmonic balance bolt was corroded and wouldnt budge. Everyone I talked to said the same thing about the timing belts on SC300's. Apparently they are very very durable belts. They have some Kevlar in there and supposedly almost never break. My car had 140k before the timing belt was changed and the mechanics that looked at it said it should have at least 20k more before it would fail. The water pump, on the other hand, is known to break often and that of course can cause serious damage. Basically, if you are going to do the timing belt, then you definetely need to do the water pump and while you are in there the cam seals and o-rings. The whole job could cost anywhere from $700-$900, depending on how fair your mechanic is. (the timing belt alone is about $40 + 3.1 hours of labor, so $250 is reasonable)

Addition: Tokico or KYB AGX? Same price, but if I understand correctly the KYB's are adjustable.

Im looking at doing the Eibach springs and kyb agx shocks like AWJ and others have suggested. Would you agree that is the most cost effecient route to take to lower the car a bit and improve handling? Any suggestions on vendors to find a good deal? Does lowering the car limit your ability to use wide tires? Id like to do 17'x10' or 11' in the rear. (if possible) Are sway bars a good investment? Would you agree with my decision to go with lightweight 17' wheels for a good mix of looks and performance? (as opposed to larger wheels) Im a little unsure about the other components involved in the cars suspension. I know that someone suggested checking the other components before lowering since doing so adds stress. If it looks like these other components need to be replaced should I go OEM or are there performance parts that are worth the money? Thanks!

Let us know how it goes.