IanH

Thank you very much.. i will try this and come back on and give an update! very informative... if you live in southern california i can pay you to fix it!

I am in Texas, but from England, so am I an English American ?

Anyway I am new here so haven't got my personal stuff loaded up yet, this reminds me to do that !!!

I forgot to tell you to unplug everything when doing the tests above. And turn everything off....

I NEED SOME HELP... my A/C makes a searching noise while it's off and sometimes when i first start the car, or while driving...the A/C has come on by itself. Also, my ciggarette lighter fuse has gone out a couple times in the past few months and this morning my battery was drained/dead. Any suggestions?

Sounds like more than one problem.

Ok get the battery charged up, use your battery charger or buy a 6 amp charger and leave it on overnight.

Do you have an in-expensive multimeter, Digital, 20V DC range ? If not buy one for under $10...

With everything on the car off, disconnect the negative cable from battery. connect the meter switched to DC amps, highest range, between the battery post and the connector. It should read close to zero, now turn the switch to milliamps one step at a time and note the reading. Stop when you get a reading.

We are looking for less then 50 milliamps. Post result.

now replace your cig lighter fuse.

repeat, start at high range and work down. Should be the same.... post result.

connect battery back up.

put meter across the battery terminals / posts, use 20V DC range. measure voltage...post result.

Start car.

put meter across the battery, measure voltage, then have some one rev to car to 3000 rpm approx, measure voltage again. post results.

Now if all is OK see if the A/C controls are working correctly.

If noise is when A/C is off get belt and idler bearing checked.....All I have time for now.

Sounds like the booster/ cylinder or the valve is stuck. You may need a new one.

Thanks Smooth1.

Anyway to test which at home, or do I need shop equipment? So each caliper has a valve on it? That would make sense.

It does not look like either rear caliper is grabbing great.

Thanks again.

I don't know how far you got with this. Sounds like a seized caliper.

If you remove it you can overhaul it or just get a re-built.

Well I can't claim to have needed one for the IS but you can try

In approx order of price...

IS / Lexus forum classifieds

Wrecker yards... use something like car-parts.com... think that's right, find the going price and a yard near you thats got one... I find this site very good..

Or online at rockauto.com

Or NAPA or other car part houses.

Lastly the Dealership... probably the best part but highest price.

Whats up? I live in the Bahamas and im new here to this Lexus forum. Now im planning on doing a 2jzge swap on my altezza rs200 and actually before i decided to post this topic i looked around the site for awhile but I only found things concerning the 2jzgte swap. Im sure this 2jz swap wont be as hard or as expensive as the 2jzgte swap but what i wanna know is that if anyone has done it and what complications may occur?

Since the only version sold here in USA is the IS300 you wont find much info here, I suggest you try forums based in UK or Asia.

But step back and think about this, you have the mech side, engine mounts, clutch, gearbox and mounts, propshaft etc plus cooling, rad, hoses.

Then the electrical, engine harness, ECU, instrument cluster, and harness for the inside of the car to support these changes.

So I disagree with you about the cost, although the GTE swap is expensive in some ways its cheaper than this swap because a lot of the peripheral stuff doesn't change.

The SportCross is actually very unpopular though...which is why it so quickly was discontinued...

Yes but its rare !!! so it can command more money now !!!

I have been told that my Serpentine belt needs to be replaced by my local oil change shop. Is this something that I can do myself? Is this overly labor intensive? My next door neighbor, who is good with cars, said he thinks the main item it requires is to loosen the tension pulley, and then the belt will be accessable.

Any help anyone can give me would be appreciated.

Thanks

Well this is fairly simple.

here is a link to a sticky in another forum.

http://my.is/forums/f115/diy-install-serpentine-drive-belt-minutes-346845/

hope it works ok if not i can cut and paste.

So today I had a warning light come on on my dash it looks like an oval with a flat side and some lines going towards the flat side with arrows pointing up and down like on this page:

GAUGES, METERS AND SERVICE REMINDER INDICATORS

Figure (N) in the service manual

It says to take my car to a Lexus dealer. Does anyone know what this light means exactly? I am a servicemember currently stationed overseas and cant exactly just take the car to a Lexus dealer, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks alot!

Sounds like the headlight auto level control to me.

there are instructions on the forums on how to get this disabled if you search.

Mine already was disabled when i brought the car.

Hi, I've been trying to find a solution to this problem for very very long and I still can't figure it out. My CD player is not working...Normally when you press the load button or DISC button it would flash a light then turn green and say insert disc but its not. The light doesnt flash, doesn't enter a CD mode and radio just continues to play as if you never pressed the button at all. I checked the 2 fuses for the stereo, One under the hood and one on the driver kick panel, both are good. I tried about 3 different stereos and still doesn't work. Any ideas? Is there another fuse that powers the changer itself? Please help :(

Opps yes you have a 2004 !!!

early IS300's had CD problems.

why not change the changer, it has power !!!

I am looking to buy some new 17" rims for my Kumho Ecsta ASX tires, does anyone have any recommendations? I'm also checking out tire rack but wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions.

What are you looking for stock 7 inch, 7.5 inch or mixed 7 8 or 9 inch staggered ?

What size tires?

I know this is a big no-no, becuase im a member of the BMW forums..but i need a very quick answer!

2001 Lexus IS300 Salvage title, 104K miles, Bright Yellow, professionally repaired.

what's it worth? its hard to get book values on salvage titled vehicles. looks nice, 0 problems.

Well as always it depends.

So to put in perspective, My 200SX SE-R was damaged in a minor accident. Repaired.

Then a year later I get rear ended, this previous accident shows up on CLUE and only get offered 2/3 of book because of the previous accident damage.

This is from my insurance company !! ( and a different one from the claim !! )

Note it had a clean title !!!

So from this and other discussions on the IS forums I would say 50% to 80% of book.

Make sure you get the two Master keys and they both work !!!

Hello I wonder if someone could help. I need to find out the width of the rear axle in a IS300 from Hub to Hub for a custom project. Thanks much

You know this is IRS not a rigid axle ?

I have a 2002 IS300 and when the check engine light went on last week I was told by dealer that I need a catalytic converter. Then they said that the part is actually an exhaust manifold with catalytic converter made into it. The cost is $1400. Is this normal to pay such a price? My car is a base model and I don't have any sport accessories on it; I am just looking for standard stuff. I called a shop and was told that putting anything other than a genuine Lexus part would only last 12-18 months then I'd be back in the same boat. Do I have any real options here?:cries:

why would an aftermarket one only last 12 -18 moinths ?

how about getting a used "good" one from a forum member?

check the classifieds

there was one for sale here in dallas on craigslist.

As I was pulling in to my parking spot I heard a crack noise down by the clutch pedal. So I reached down there to see if I could figure out what it was, and sure enough my clutch pedal spring had broke.

Anyone know where I can buy this? I've Google searched for an hour now, so I figured I'd go the the pros!!!

Thanks for any suggestions!

The dealer is the easiest, should not be that much.

you can check the online Lexus parts sites for a ball park cost.

Which bulb do you need to replace?

Welcome.

Thanks for searching. As above what bulb is bad, please try to give as much info as possible when posting.

Well mine are very easy to hand lock using the inside knob.

So maybe the handle assembly is worn out or jamming.

mine has 138K btw, but this may be more years and door uses than miles.

I Expect if you disconnected the handle assembly and try and actuate using the rod it will be very difficult.

Its hard to imagine its the solenoid is bad, but check any intermediate rods and pivots. I don't know what it looks like in there, but will look at the FSM when i get a chance.

Just a side note, i had the first year legacy and the handle assembly would go bad, several were replaced under warranty.

Out of warranty I couldn't adjust or fix. very strange. But buy a new handle assembly and rod, don't adjust or touch, drop in, worked great for some more years.

and the newer replacements did last longer.

i will hand lock mine to see what they feel like ....

Hello Ian!

Thank you so much for the quick response!

When I lock the doors manually using the interior "buttons", they turn like I'm moving them through "a thick grease". They do turn; but with some effort (again, only when the interior is hot).

I need a little direction for measuring the temperature of the car battery; are you talking "under hood" temperature or the actual temperature of the battery itself? If you're talking the temperature of the battery itself; I'm thinking you mean service temp?? Please let me know.

I will check the battery voltage across the terminals (AZ heat is known for "chewing up and spitting out" batteries. Typical battery life is 3 years; + / - 6 months). My current battery is about 2 years old. But the problem occurred even the battery was new.

Steve

Well an interesting problem, not heard of this before.

So what can I say to help you?

When you say it 'sticks' can you feel abnormal resistance to locking by hand or by the key ?

IE is this mechanical?

Well i doubt it but have to ask..

So what happens when electrical stuff gets hot !!

Resistance increases, current flow goes down, bad connections get worse.

So first thing is to check you battery voltage, everything off and car sitting for a while, say 30 -60 minutes. Digital Multimeter, 20V range, note temperature of battery in case we need it later.

Waiting for your reply.

I am only interested in the battery temp, if the car has been off for some time then the ambient approx temp will do.

This is so i can check the voltage at this temp if we need too. However based on your reply it doesn't sound like its an electrical/battery/wiring issue at all !!

So you are saying the other locks don't feel like this, moving in thick grease ?

and at lower temperature they not only work but don't feel like this ?

Well it sounds like something is binding in the solenoid/ lock assembly.

I would expect something like this with cold not heat.

I suggest taking the door panel off the rear door, since you can still drive around for a few days, when its hot enough to produce the symptoms.

lubricate the lock mechanism, and check the solenoid action. maybe disconnect the linkage and check each piece. I think it will be obvious when you find it, the solenoid give a hard shove so whatever this is will appear seized to hand movement.

Well an interesting problem, not heard of this before.

So what can I say to help you?

When you say it 'sticks' can you feel abnormal resistance to locking by hand or by the key ?

IE is this mechanical?

Well i doubt it but have to ask..

So what happens when electrical stuff gets hot !!

Resistance increases, current flow goes down, bad connections get worse.

So first thing is to check you battery voltage, everything off and car sitting for a while, say 30 -60 minutes. Digital Multimeter, 20V range, note temperature of battery in case we need it later.

Waiting for your reply.

Hello,

Have a 2004 IS with 80k on it. Runs great. Problem is when I sit in traffic or a drive thru, engine almost dies when the cooling fan comes on. When the fan kicks off, idles normal and smooth. No lights on in the dash. Is there a relay or switch that should be advancing the idle when the fan comes on?

Check your idle control valve, maybe needs cleaning, called IACV on most cars. Not sure what its called on IS300.

Yea same here, Is the link dead? I would really like to take a look at this one..im in need of replacing the radiator and I have no clue how to do it...

Flaresplitz

Evidently it's died recently.

If I know what you need I maybe can upload the corresponding pages.

Can you upload to my Skydrive ?

I will send the link if you can.

thanks Ian.

I should be able to. The original download I have are compressed files.

well i have the 2005 finally.

Is there a link to the wiring diagram somewhere, i have searched and cant find it.

If needed I can post the 2005 manual on my skydrive and post a link.

Yea same here, Is the link dead? I would really like to take a look at this one..im in need of replacing the radiator and I have no clue how to do it...

Flaresplitz

Evidently it's died recently.

If I know what you need I maybe can upload the corresponding pages.

Can you upload to my Skydrive ?

I will send the link if you can.

thanks Ian.

opps....

Ok found the owners manual and downloaded and the FSM, Thanks a bunch.

All done.

Here's a llink to the combined, by section, manual:

http://home.comcast.net/~whoit/IS300TechManualSections.zip

I cant get the link to open,

If its good is the forum hiding characters in the address ?

Maybe remove the http:// so it doesn't recognize.

What year is this for ?

Thanks Ian.