IanH
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Posts posted by IanH
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but sound does seem to be coming from the front half of the engine. Is the VVT working OK?
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So did the teeth on the belt look good ?
I listened to your video and cant tell, rod knock sounds a lot louder when you give a short burst of throttle, and goes quieter as you get off the throttle even though revs are still up.
Probably not the same car I think it was in the USA, and on another forum.
BTW my car has 154K miles
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This is the one under the drivers seat, and I had the same issue. Since i had 140K and just replaced the clutch, so gaskets were new, I didn't believe it was anything to do with leaks.
Replacing the CAT with new Y pipe under the floor seems excessive on a 8yr old car, so I used an O2 cheater for $15- 20
Anyway I agree with above
1) check for leaks and gaskets
2) replace O2 Sensor
3) replace CAT or O2 cheater
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post a video with sound.
I suspect its just valve noise and nothing to worry about.
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Is this the same 2001 w / 145K that's been on the forums in the last month ?
Use a screw driver as a stethoscope to see where the noise is coming from.
No Rod knock normally will not reduce power much till something breaks and goes through the block.
Pop the front top valve cover / timing belt cover and look at the belt for damage, its quick and easy.
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you meant gaps of mirrors?
Yes, where the mirrors swivel if they are knocked or deliberately folded in.....
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I read on the forum that there is wind noise from the mirrors, and this guys sealed up the gap.....
As for road noise, I suspect its the type and brand of tires, these are low profile and trend to be noisier.
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A couple of days ago I noticed that my car (03 Lexus IS300) was taking longer than normal to crank. The starter is fine and the engine turns over it just seems like it doesn't fire to get the engine started up. Usually it takes a couple of seconds to start but now it seems like its taking 3 or 4 seconds longer than normal.
Also when this first started I would smell a gasoline smell after the car cranked. Now it has gotten worse to the point where sometimes the car won't crank on the first try and usually I am successful on the second crank.
Any ideas on what might be causing this? As of recently I feel like my car is starting to fall apart at 100k miles.
First your car is barely getting going, mine's at 154 K and others are 200K plus so don't worry, these are well built reliable cars.
However things like batteries do get old and wear out or die.
Which brings us to your problem.
A few questions.
Please explain "crank" in our post, do you mean it is slow to turn over when you are trying to start ? or its turns over just as fast but doesn't fire ?
how old is battery ?
Do you have and can use a digital voltmeter ?
Is the Engine check light on ? If so get the codes read.
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Post the codes.
how many miles on the CAT's ? Exhaust Manifold and rear CAT.....
Yes had 0420 code on mine.
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there are enough of these around you should be able to find one locally, try Craigslist, that's how i found mine. $50 seems regular asking price for a used rim thats not cosmetically perfect. If you want a really nice one $100 +
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Your code will tell you which sensor,
IE B2S2
Bank 2 Sensor 2
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To do this yourself you need a Master key that fits the ignition. Go back to your friend and ask for the original master key(s).
(are the transponders in your keys already?)
If you have the original already programed in transponders in your keys then yes get a blank, get it cut and swap transponder / remote unit and you are good to go.
You cannot program a new to the car transponder without a master key. The dealer can do it from your VIN for 2002-on cars, so you are in luck with your 2004, others with a 2001 are screwed and need an ECU.
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I have dis-connected my Battery without any A/C problems, so i doubt its that.
I think you are correct that something got unplugged or a ground cut or disconnected.
Sorry i don't know where the temp sensor is, i suggest you download the Factory service manual (FSM)and look for it.
OK found it !!!
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I have dis-connected my Battery without any A/C problems, so i doubt its that.
I think you are correct that something got unplugged or a ground cut or disconnected.
Sorry i don't know where the temp sensor is, i suggest you download the Factory service manual (FSM)and look for it.
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Ok,
If there is an M85 paper sticker on your diff case (mine is clearly visible underneath the car,) then you have LSD. My car is a manual !!!
stolen shamelessly from another forum...
How to tell if my IS300 has LSD?
Look at the sticker on your driver door sill/jamb, look for the area that reads "A/TM"
You'll see numbers such as B02A, B02B, B02C
A=no LSD
B,C = LSD
If you are still unsure, call 1800 25 LEXUS and ask them to look up your VIN and they can tell you what options it came equipped it from the factory.
If you bought your car second hand, there is a possibility the owner of a non-LSD IS300 swapped in a factory LSD, if this is not disclosed, it makes things a bit more challenging.
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I assume you will have a stereo shop do the install for you ?
decide what you need, 1DIN or 2DIN slot and see what your shop has.
i will look for info on the Amp and get back to you ( I am interested)
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My IS300 is in the shop and the dealership loaned me an IS250 with dual HKS Exhaust and full exhaust system, ISF fitted Brake calipers & drilled roters, dropped with a front lip...yea this is from the dealership. only has 700 miles on it too. After just one day of driving this car i miss the days of having a fixed up car...so back to the topic, i wanted to know what good springs i could put on my IS300? i've heard Tein springs (high tech) give it a nice drop of .7 in the front and 1 in the rear which is not low at all and it should give it that fresh sporty look. Also thinking about a clean sounding exhaust . I've had Apexi on my integra before and it was not loud at all, just right. Want to know what you IS300 owners have on your tricked out rides and what works and what doesn't. Any suggestions would help, it's been 6 years since i've hooked up a car and i just want something a little more sporty than what i have now. Thanks in advance.
I drive a 2004 IS300 5 speed manual. Everything is stock and since i have to change out my shocks and tires soon i guess this would be a good time to upgrade since the warranty and extended is up.
Welcome.
I have a 2004 Manual as well, stock except for the Clutch damper removal "CDD" I think its called.
I suggest you try my.is , I hate to send you over to the dark side but there is more traffic on exhaust mods over there. Search
and hunt around before you post.
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I live in Southern California and I am willing to trade a full set of new condition front and back perforated leather seats (dark gray) for a full set of front and back Alcantara seats (dark gray/black) for an IS300. Contact me at cbr@cbrinfo.org.
Love too but i don't think you would want mine !! 141 k miles and showing some marks ( before I brought it)
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My 2004 5sp has 141K, and as far as i can tell its not been worked on. You can see the water pump has been replaced.
no clicks or ticks.
How about taking it back to the shop that did the work and ask them what they think it is ?
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Dont think I can get a picture!! Not sure I even saw it when replacing the clutch....go figure !!!
Its level with the top of the transmission, besides the engine block (facing the transmission) towards the drivers side of the car.
Good luck, you will need it.
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Check your fuses.
Did you check the power draw of the new lights, you may have overloaded the circuit.
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don't put in a larger fuse yet.
what navi do you have and what size fuse are you putting in ???
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What did the guy at Autozone check ??
He can check the battery and Alternator very quickly.
I am concerned you have a short somewhere causing your fuse blowing and flat battery.
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Thank you very much.. i will try this and come back on and give an update! very informative... if you live in southern california i can pay you to fix it!
So lets see if my changes came up OK ?
Possible Ocv Oil Control Valve Issues
in 01 - 06 Lexus IS300
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yes the P0420 is cat inefficiency, and refers to the B2S2 under the car, I believe P0430 is the other second O2,B1S2.
I also was not interested in dropping $1500 - 2000 for the manifold and second cat and Y pipe under the car. (don't know where you got your number ???)
I got two Stainless steel O2 cheaters for about $25 delivered. The guy was on eBay but moved to his own web site because of the reg's covering this stuff. If you cant find the part I will find web site for you.
This fixed it permanently..... BTW I Had about 145K when this happened.
Also can be caused by exhaust leaks, check for holes and bad gaskets.
Re other code, you will have to look it up, sorry.