IanH

Looks like you need DI-53 on as well as FSM

does your code reader have freeze frame ?

ok. send me your email via PM and I will send you a link to my copy.

will look up code and reply.

So it could be the water temp sensor.

download the FSM it will help you a lot.

Look on forums for link

Good luck.

Also check the water temp sensor.

Are you saying that if you clear the codes with a code reader its fine unit it gets hot then codes reappear ?

A quick look as FSM says you should do this next

5. INSPECT CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

(a) Disconnect the sensor connector.

(b) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals.

Resistance:

Cold 835 - 1,400 W

Hot 1,060 - 1,645 W

If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor.

© Reconnect the camshaft position sensor connector.

6. INSPECT CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

(a) Disconnect the sensor connector.

(b) Remove the bolt holding the connector bracket to the water

pump.

© Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals.

Resistance:

Cold 1,630 - 2,740 W

Hot 2,065 - 3,225 W

If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor.

(d) Reinstall the bolt holding the connector bracket to the water

pump.

edited to try and get back readable format.

(e) Reconnect the sensor connector.

Sent you email with link to my onedrive public files. Look for is300 folder

I dont even have a valet key, my car came with one broken master. I strongly suggest you get a master Key as soon as possible.

Read my Sig....

When ignition is turned on the Fuel gauge should respond. Do you have another key to try. from FSM The system cannot be canceled when the ignition switch is turned to ON with key. 1. Key Unlock Warning Switch 2. Ignition Switch 3. RAD NO. 2 Fuse 4. Wire Harness 5. Theft Deterrent ECU BE-21 BE-21 BE-15 - DI-776

hi, thanks.

well i just have the valet key.

the PO tell me that he star the car with the valet key without problem.

what do you mean with this?

1. Key Unlock Warning Switch 2. Ignition Switch 3. RAD NO. 2 Fuse 4. Wire Harness 5. Theft Deterrent ECU BE-21 BE-21 BE-15 - DI-776

The 1 through 5 are list from FSM of problems that will cause your issue, BE-21 is page number for further info. Sorry it lost format when i hit the post button.

Download the FSM, if you cant find link i have one i can email you link to my files. send me PM

When ignition is turned on the Fuel gauge should respond.

Do you have another key to try.

from FSM

The system cannot be canceled when the ignition switch is turned

to ON with key.

1. Key Unlock Warning Switch

2. Ignition Switch

3. RAD NO. 2 Fuse

4. Wire Harness

5. Theft Deterrent ECU

BE-21

BE-21

BE-15

-

DI-776

When ignition is turned on the Fuel gauge should respond.

Do you have another key to try.

I just checked my spare bulb, i only installed one of a pair, and yes its black round base with silver contacts. with no wire. I don't remember exactly how this fits, but it does. you remove the bulb from the grey holder. I suggest you do a search on YouTube or Google to see how its done.

Sorry Duplicate post please delete.

Where do you live ?

My keys were cut for me at an independant Lexus service garage here in the Dallas area.

I have a 2004 and if I turn off the traction control on a wet road it will step out and spin if you dont take corrective action

i coughed up for the Lexus one ....

BTW I am confused, you list ES300 on your profile, yet this post is about an IS250 and that you posted in the IS 300 sub forum..??

i have always had my Radiators repaired, successfully I might add..

For that kind of money I would look into into a solid Aluminium radiator rather than an OEM, or check out Rock Auto....

• 2001 IS 300
  
• 195,000 Miles
  
• Asking price $5500
  
• Black exterior / tan interior
  
• New Tires
  
• New brakes & Rotors
  
• Upgraded suspension system
  
• Aluminum radiator
  
• Short Ram/Cold air intake
  
• New timing belt and water pump
  
• Front strut bar & front eibach sway bar
  
• One minor scratch
  

1. Anything in particular I should inspect?

2. If no major issues, what would you offer?

3. Does anyone know what these headlights are? would like to install these once I get the car.

Ok, 2001 had no stick shift option.

Also ECU is not re-programmable, so major issues if you ever don't have a master key.

2004 on had upgraded CD player and smoked rear lights as standard.

2005 no longer had LSD as an option.

I think there is a lot of choice out there if you are willing to go Automatic.

As far as price I really think its dependent on condition.

I will only ask $9500 for my MSN 2004 Manual with LSD 154K and new tires, battery, windshield when i put it up for sale.

Ok. What you have sounds normal.... Let me explain.

All newer disc brakes rely on the play in the wheel bearings to knock back the pads.

My 67 Jaguar has a retraction mechanism that pulls pads back 0.010, but i have neve rseen this on a modern car.

So to test this you need to drive the car at low speed, do left right shakes and stop using the hand brake drum brakes, or coast to a stop where you can jack it up.

you should find the brakes are not in contact.

Only other thing to check is rear discs have been reported to rub at rear inside. remove and Look for bright spots.

First, the plugs are due at 90K and the toyota vechicles with the engine and plugs are 105 or 120 K, cant remember, so you can and people have gone over the 90k with no problem.

Check your lexus maintanance table.

If you filled your tankand lights went off maybe it was the cap not on tight.

Get the codes read, or buy a code reader.

This is per my owner's manual description. I'm wondering if these lights going on in unison indicate problems to come? I am 20K miles late on changing the plugs per the 60K recommend. (my mechanic has said because they're iradium or whatever I can push this service.)

These lights have never stayed on before in the 80,000 miles I've driven the car. (tank was almost on empty, but the low fuel light was not on yet.)

Thanks so much.

If its a TPS problem ( and Probably PPS) it should throw a code. Did you ask them if there were any codes ?

I'm writing from France about a problem with our 1999 IS 200, manual transmission, 110k km (about 70k miles). The other morning the engine got stuck at idle -- depressing the accelerator didn't change the engine speed at all, and the check engine light came on. The car had been parked indoors and the problem came up within a few blocks of leaving the garage, with the engine just warming up. We parked the car and came back the next morning and the engine seemed to respond normally, but we didn't really drive it. We had the car towed to the local Lexus dealership, which wants to replace the clutch. This doesn't make a great deal of sense to me. Any ideas?

^X2

certainly isnt the clutch !!!

My battery in my key fob is just under a year old. I went to use it this morning, and it wouldn't unlock. I have a 2002 IS300 that I bought used. The key fob the garage gave me cracked and you had to be careful, or it would fall out. I had a new one made, but when I went to pick it up, the man asked me if I realized the key wouldn't work on the door. Evidently, this car had been wrecked, but didn't show up on the carfax report. They had to have replaced the drivers side door. The key code that is in the manual does not match the code the key man had to use to copy the old key. I called a local key place and the guy told me he could try to get in, but if it doesn't work the first time, it will completely lock him out to try again. He suggested the next step would be to call a Lexus dealership and give them the serial number of my car so they could send a replacement key fob. He also said it would take seven to ten days to receive the new one. The trouble is, I still wouldn't be able to open up the door with the new one. Anyone have any ideas what may have gone wrong with the fob? Can a new key be made just for the door alone? Thanks in advance, Bean

what about the passenger side door ?

I have a 2004 and about 145K I started having the P0420 P0430 codes. I used a cheater to fix this. They are cheap and get the light off, I have passed emissions since I installed. Agruments against this vs an O2 Sim are that you still need a working O2, ie heater can and will fail at usual interval. Mine were $25 for two Stainless Steel made in USA. If you need a link let me know. O2 heater hasnt failed yet.

Just picked up a 2001 is300 with 75000 original kms. Dealer says timing belt should be done every 6years or 140,000kms. Dealer service records don't show that this has been done yet, should I change it now?

So the rubber timing belt is 11 yrs old or so, and has a life expectancy of 6yrs and 90 k miles.

Do you like to gamble ? Do you win ?

If it was mine i would change it !!!