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P1354 Need To Bounce Off Ideas


chococat

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So...last Wednesday I pop a P1354 VVT malfunction (bank 2 / radiator side)

My mechanic tested BOTH OCVs (oil control valves). Both were ok (9 Ohms). Voltage tested them, both work.

Bank 2 (radiator side) - current/signal runs fine

Bank 1 (firewall side) - No signal/signal intermittant

Which leads the mechanic and me to believe the ECM, because he said the wiring seemed fine too.

Odd thing is...a bank one issue should have popped a P1349. I didn't get that. Just P1354.

Why a bank 2 code when the issue is with bank 1?

So...my timing is off. One side of engine the timing is advancing at a different rate as the other side which causes the engine to lurch and car to stutter along at times, plus smell bad.

First instinct was to replace the OCV, but the mechanic says he can apply voltage to both and they both activate and they are both fine.

I am going to pull the ECM tomorrow. Plug/unplug connections, blow them out, etc. Probably replace ECM with a used one off eBay ($80). New they are $525.

Also, interesting to note, my car was hit, in about the exact location 2 months ago. I replaced that entire side of the car. Beam was fine.

A friend said to look at the camshaft position sensor, but that's P0345 (not the code I got), And NO it's not knock sensors, also a different code, and I replaced both of those years ago.

I am going to research the forums more, but if someone here had a word of wisdom, I would appreciate it.

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I'm just guessing, but it may be that the intermittant signal is the good one, and the steady signal is the malfunctioning one.....

Try a junk yard for a computer. I replaced mine about a year ago, new $700, ebay was $80 (not guaranteed) to $180 (guaranteed). There are even a few companies that refurb ECMs, but they're up around 2 bills. Got one at the yard for $25 and $2 for a warranty. Just make sure you got the right one by checking serial #s, as several different ones were used for each year. Your idea to clean and reseat contacts is good and fairly easy, and you'll need to get it exposed anyway to get the SN.

As always, I try to to the least expensive things first. In this case would wonder about swapping the ocv's (if they are swappable) to see if the problem shifts sides. If it does you have your solution, if not, you have to look more centrally for your problem (wiring or ECM)

LL

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I'm just guessing, but it may be that the intermittant signal is the good one, and the steady signal is the malfunctioning one.....

Try a junk yard for a computer. I replaced mine about a year ago, new $700, ebay was $80 (not guaranteed) to $180 (guaranteed). There are even a few companies that refurb ECMs, but they're up around 2 bills. Got one at the yard for $25 and $2 for a warranty. Just make sure you got the right one by checking serial #s, as several different ones were used for each year. Your idea to clean and reseat contacts is good and fairly easy, and you'll need to get it exposed anyway to get the SN.

The OVCs are not swappable, bolts are in different places. :wacko:

My worry about used ECMs is my keys working & being compatible. I heard that was an issue. Is that an issue with used computers?

Oh and I am not misfiring as I see some people who get P1354 do. Mine just appears to be advancing timing to one camshaft & not the other. Timing belt/tensioner is all new, so it is not that and I was getting this code prior to replacing those.

And I doubt my accident hurt the OCM, wasn't that hard of hit.

Also...it is not the cam position sensors, 1) that is a different code, 2) I swapped them for sport, no change

AND it is NOT the acuator because if I unplug both OCVs, the car runs smooth (albiet at a high RPM), plug them back in, the engine shakes and runs bad.

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Talking out loud here...

Now while I am waiting for my OCVs to come Tuesday, wouldn't it be great if someone had an actual snapshot of where the Oil Control Valve FILTERS were? I have an idea, going to try tomorrow, clean them out, drive the car.

Read that someone w/a 99 RX had the code for Bank 1, replaced the OCVs, no change. Replaced the filters. CEL gone for good..

My new mission is to find the filters, clean them. Drive. Code? Replace OCVs. Code? Replace w/new filters. Code? Then it will mean wiring or ECM and I will have ruled everything else out.em

<edited to add: I found and checked my oil control valve filters today and they looked CLEAN. Now I am sad that THAT wasn't the problem, but I AM happy that as far as that whole "sludge" issue. I have yet to see traces of it.>

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Going to talk to myself here, just in case some else finds it useful...

Replaced both my oil control valves (VVT solenoids). Bought them at O'Reilly Auto Parts #917-211 & #917-214. $61.99/each. Drove just about 30 miles, over the river & through the woods & 70mph when I could. No check engine lights. Before I would pop a code w/i 4 miles. I'll test it out more tomorrow. But for now...I am optimistic & VERY thankful.

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Drove to Houston and back today (to pick up my "new" RX300), 9 hours total. And the ES ran *GREAT*. So the mechanic was wrong, it was not the ECM, it was just the valves. $120 for parts, 10 min of labor. *woot*.

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