DuaneG Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Well, after everything, I have decided to replace the the MAF but I would like some suggestions on its replacement. Should I: 1. Go new ($1200 from dealer, NOT my first choice) 2. Aftermarket $400) 3. Salvage ($?) 4. Another option As with everyone money is tight but I need to get this replaced. Any advice will be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Why have you concluded you need a new MAF? Do you have ECU codes? Other symptoms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuaneG Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 It started with the car stuttering at idle occasionally. Only at idle. Then the check engine light came on and would go off when I reached 25 mph. So I ran the codes. Codes 24 and 41, I think. It has been a while since I ran them, but that was the conclusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Since it is such an expensive part I would try to diagnose it a bit further before throwing parts at the problem. As for poor idling here are some suggestions to check: Check for leaks (cracks, loose fittings) in all of the air ducts between the intake manifold and MAF. Do a throttle body cleaning if one hasn't been done in >25k miles. Check that the IACV is not gummed up and is freely moving. For the 25MPH symptom I would be sure you don't have an ignition issue. These car are notorious for coil problems that kill one bank of cylinders and dump a lot of unburnt fuel into the exhaust system (red hot catalytic converters). Many threads on this website to diagnose that issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuaneG Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Throttle body cleaning? Done a couple months ago. IACV? Cleaned as well. I was going off of the ECU codes. But I will re-check the codes again and see if I get another set of codes. And I can check the converters as well. Any other ways I can check if I have coil issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 yes. If you have a bad coil it generally means the car is just running on 4 cylinders. That being the case if you unplug the bad coil you won't notice any performance drop with the engine (since it wasn't working anyway). Now reconnect and try the other bank. If it is good disconnecting it should kill the engine as with the other 4 cylinders already dead you'll now be now down to zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuaneG Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 Well, is there another MAF that will work in my car? Toyota? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 did you rule out ignition? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve2006 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 The early Toyota Supra uses the same MAF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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