czerwin Posted May 28, 2013 Posted May 28, 2013 Oh, one other point. For some reason, the resistance between pins 2 and 4 was 1200 for me, instead of 1700. I was worried I had done something, but everything has been working for a few days, so I think it's all good.
minino Posted May 31, 2013 Posted May 31, 2013 Hi I think youre Genius// I wokeup to a BLANK nav screen/ radio works so does clock but a/c climate buttoms on side are not functioning and odf course the screen isblank so I cannoy turn on air. I view this as afety issue. did you have working a/c when you began your quest to repair?? I just want to see if my problm is the same as yours as it appears Im just not getting any electricity to the screen/ But why wont the side climate controls still not work. I guess my issue with lexus is thst by arguably faulty design The customer in my case doess NOT know if he has a ac prblm/ heater prblm/ fan problm/ light problem or nav Map problem// any reply welcomed Again you are bright for doing what u did. Thanks Fabio my email fabher331@hotmail.com
Cali2TexLex Posted July 31, 2013 Posted July 31, 2013 Ok first of all MUCH LOVE AND RESPECT to JLanford, just finished the repair and it fixed my Faulty TouchScreen. The repair was actually pretty easy once LCD was apart. Few additional recommendations. The foamy dash is very easy to chip/damage while removing the navigation screen so do NOT pry against it or allow heavy Navigation Assembly to contact it(I am now looking for someone to touch up the dash or repair the chips) . I will add a youtube link in removing the assembly which I used to guide me along, but remember do Not pry along foam dash. I also have found some LCD Screens on eBay in case the repair didn't work for for under 300. Also, most connections on the back are pretty hard not to put back in the right place but take a picture of connections so that you don't forget to plug something in during re installation. http://youtu.be/DIcwVnj88VU
Cali2TexLex Posted July 31, 2013 Posted July 31, 2013 YouTube link doesn't seem to work on my previous post, here's the video name: How to Remove Radio / Navigation / Display from 2006, 2007, 2008 Lexus IS250, IS350 for Repair 1
jk3579 Posted December 24, 2013 Posted December 24, 2013 Hi Fellow Lexus Enthusiasts, Does anyone live within the Washington, DC Metro area who would be able to repair the navigation in my 06 IS250? If you do, please email me at kaskaconstruction@gmail.com. I would be so happy to pay someone to perform this work. Thank You!
Alexus2014 Posted August 26, 2014 Posted August 26, 2014 Anyone in the BOS area know how to fix this? I will pay you to fix mine. It just broke this week :(
jsolla Posted May 2, 2015 Posted May 2, 2015 Thanks for the post. About a month ago my screen went dead. I found your post but cannot get the pictures you posted. Can you please tell me where to find them? I would love to try this repair myself. Thanks.
Cali2TexLex Posted May 2, 2015 Posted May 2, 2015 Check out the YouTube video, also on my previous post I talked about the Dash issue, well GREAT NEWS everyone!! Lexus has a silent recall on sticky brittle dash!! About 6 Months ago I had my complete dash replace under recall for free!! Hope that helps!
LEX-SV Posted May 4, 2015 Posted May 4, 2015 Note: Dash problem is not a silent recall. Owners have received letter in mail from Lexus regarding the warranty enhancement (warranty extension).
Blex Motoring Posted September 3, 2015 Posted September 3, 2015 Has anyone ever figured out what caused everything from the clock up to black out, or not have power at all? It's fricking hot!!
Fernando Diaz Nin Posted July 26, 2016 Posted July 26, 2016 I'VE tried everything and nothing works... ive tried 3 times, the first time it worked the half of the screen, the right side didnt want to work complete, second time it didnt work, and 3rd time it didnt work again =/ i got my circuit ink drawer, i've been chipping the glass but the cooper is getting chip too... when i make the conection my multimeer reads the resistance but its not exactly how it should be between 500 for 1-3 and 1700 for 2-4. help please =/
gastric Posted July 26, 2016 Posted July 26, 2016 My general thought on the chipping of the glass was it didn't really matter as much as you think. It's actually an extremely thin copper trace sandwiched by two pieces of glass. So even though you don't have a clean, flat copper surface exposed like on the flexible cable portion the liquid circuit writer will be pushed up against the glass sandwich and thus the microscopic trace in there. At least that's my theory. :) I spent 1+ hours trying to chip glass to get a flat trace under there without any luck. Only a couple of the chips resulted in enough copper where I could get the tip of my multimeter to get a signal. I then gave up, did the circuit writer pen, baked it under a 60W bulb for a couple hours to dry it, then tested everything and it was good. You do really have to wait a long time for it to dry and become conductive, particularly if you put it on real thick. 1
pj8708 Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 Excellent post. Way over my head, but learned points I didn't know. Paul
Fernando Diaz Nin Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 3 hours ago, gastric said: My general thought on the chipping of the glass was it didn't really matter as much as you think. It's actually an extremely thin copper trace sandwiched by two pieces of glass. So even though you don't have a clean, flat copper surface exposed like on the flexible cable portion the liquid circuit writer will be pushed up against the glass sandwich and thus the microscopic trace in there. At least that's my theory. :) I spent 1+ hours trying to chip glass to get a flat trace under there without any luck. Only a couple of the chips resulted in enough copper where I could get the tip of my multimeter to get a signal. I then gave up, did the circuit writer pen, baked it under a 60W bulb for a couple hours to dry it, then tested everything and it was good. You do really have to wait a long time for it to dry and become conductive, particularly if you put it on real thick. said i did it three times, first time it worked but not full screen, like 3/4 of the screen, the right side didnt work, second time it didnt work, and 3rd time it now works like this, i dont now if i need to let it dry more but its like a lil crazy, probably because its a poor conection? please help =/ should i try to do it again? im using bare ink conductive, sold my amazon IMG_5179.mp4 IMG_5178.mp4
gastric Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 @Fernando Diaz Nin From the videos it looks like your digitizer is physically working, it's just that it's reading the touch with an offset from where you're physically tapping. Unsure if this indicates one or more of the traces aren't repaired or not. But I recall reading there's some way to get into a service menu to initiate a recalibration of the touch accuracy. You might want to find a link with instructions and try that before yanking the unit out a 4th time.
miamour Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 So my 2006 IS250, navigation screen just went black. The radio work CD player works, clock and hazards work. From reading through everything here I am wondering if it is a bad digitizer. But it's seems as though everybody else's screen was frozen. Can somebody help and tell me if the black screen is the digitizer? Thank you
Fernando Diaz Nin Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 16 minutes ago, miamour said: So my 2006 IS250, navigation screen just went black. The radio work CD player works, clock and hazards work. From reading through everything here I am wondering if it is a bad digitizer. But it's seems as though everybody else's screen was frozen. Can somebody help and tell me if the black screen is the digitizer? Thank you seems like your LCD screen is not working anymore, but its just black? if its not your screen probably something just unplugged from its place. unscrew everything and check, the lcd screen uses 3 plugs, 1 for digitizer, another for display and the other one i dont know for what
miamour Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 Thank you Fernando, so if it's the screen a new digitizer should fix the problem correct because it comes with a screen?
Edle Posted February 23, 2017 Posted February 23, 2017 For those of you who do not care to deal with the circuit writer pen or have tried but did not have any luck fixing your screen this solution (from Amazon) worked perfectly for me. This is actually a full working screen instead of messing with the digitizer, you are replacing it AND the screen electronics as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJUI7BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Good Luck!
DoubleB Posted March 5, 2017 Posted March 5, 2017 As for the topic a few folks have asked about no power above the clock after the repair. Did anyone ever figure this out? I am having the same issue. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Brandon
Ali HS Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 . Silver conductive ink worked fine with me. . No power problems. For extra caution, I removed battery during assembly/disassembly. Had to reprogram everything even my windows... . Found some coins/cards etc beneath ash tray. Nice bonys...
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