Micah.Berry Posted December 16, 2010 Posted December 16, 2010 I searched the forum on "ride height" and nearly all the responses I saw had to do with air suspensions and converting to conventional suspensions. My suspension is a stock, non-air suspension. On my 99, the left side is just a bit lower than the right side at the front of the car. The rear appears level. This ride height issue was really brought to my attention when I put the car on my ramps. The lower front air dam on the right side clears the top of the ramp, but I have to place wood blocks under the left side to raise the car so that it clears the top of the ramp. Otherwise, I'm running the left lower plastic air dam into the top of the ramp, which obviously is not good for it. Now, my driveway has just a slight downhill lean. Thus, some of the lean may be explained by the driveway, but even on a flat parking lot, the car is *just slightly* lower on the left side (at the front). Almost makes me think the car was owned by someone very heavy... :whistles: I am going to replace the strut bar bushings in the next few weeks on both sides, and I'm wondering if doing so would affect ride height. I wouldn't think so, but I thought I would ask. Again, my car does not have an air suspension, and I'm pretty certain everything is stock (with 124k miles). Based on some other posts, I wouldn't think that the shocks themselves are gone. The ride is quite nice and bumps are controlled without excess movement. I do get a "clonk" when on the brakes going over a bump. When I'm off the brakes, there's no "clonk." The clonking and some wheel vibration at speed are the reasons I'm changing out the strut bar bushing. I also believe that I need to replace a tie rod on the right side as there is just the slightest play when trying to pull/push the wheel at the 9 / 3 o'clock positions. Would this have anything to do with how the car normally sits? Lastly, is there anything of which I need to be aware in removing and reinstalling the lower strut bars? The only thing I know of is that they should be attached when the car is at normal ride height, otherwise, tearing of the rubber bushing may occur. But I may be getting the strut bar installation confused with the upper / lower control arm installation. I found a couple nice videos on YouTube for the upper control arms (for a GS, not an LS). Thanks all for your advice and help. There's a lot of questions in this thread (for which I do apologize). I have learned so much from this group already! Best regards, Micah
Micah.Berry Posted December 16, 2010 Author Posted December 16, 2010 Of course, now that I made sure to park it in an area that's flat, the front sure looks level. I haven't taken my ruler to it, but I probably will chalk it up to a soft suspension and my driveway, which is inclined and not level. Still have the question on the installation of the control arms when someone has a chance. Thanks again, Micah
billydpowell Posted December 16, 2010 Posted December 16, 2010 Micah, when you replace your bushings, do it as shown, and dont tighten the bolt with the wheels hanging. we jacked up the lower arm (carefully) to where it was just slightly on the jack stand, and then tightened the bolt(meshing the teeth), if done while in the air, when lowered to normal position, the bushing is stressed and will tear sooner, and not give the overall ride you want. sa-34bush.pdf
Micah.Berry Posted December 16, 2010 Author Posted December 16, 2010 Thanks, Billy. I will make sure to print out the PDF you were so kind to attach and take it with me when I have the machine shop press out the old and press in the new. They said it'd cost $7.50 each, including prepping the new bushing. So that I understand correctly, when you installed the new bushing, you brought the lower (control) arm up slightly, though not to a level where the wheels would normally sit. Thanks again, Micah
billydpowell Posted December 16, 2010 Posted December 16, 2010 Thanks, Billy. I will make sure to print out the PDF you were so kind to attach and take it with me when I have the machine shop press out the old and press in the new. They said it'd cost $7.50 each, including prepping the new bushing. So that I understand correctly, when you installed the new bushing, you brought the lower (control) arm up slightly, though not to a level where the wheels would normally sit. Thanks again, Micah we brought it up as far as was SAFE, which was close to normal.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now